Mopar1973Man

I've got a local 2003 Subaru Impresa 2.5L here that has a P0420. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420 What I've done. New Fuel Filter Both up and down stream oxygen sensors New spark plugs I've just finished the spark plugs and the owner just left for a test drive. I'm asking if anyone has any other ideas.

Pretty... (Side note) Picture resizing isn't require the forum software will do that automatically. (Or it should!)

There is all kind of OBDII port extension cords, Y cords, etc. I'm sure a bit of Google time will find what your looking for.

I've been saying this all long. The fact we are going around the same circle as we did back in the late 60's with muscle cars and now doing it all over again with diesel trucks.

I bet the old steering box was loose in the sector adjustment.

I'm glad you got it fixed and got to enjoy somme of the beauty around you. But I'm going to have to ask for some pictures...

Tire balance and shocks are typically the big ones.

A lot of people voicing about accidents motorcycle vs. car/truck. I'm also one that had a few bad accidents motorcycle vs. car. I would have to agree like out here its getting pretty bad with idiots on the road passing on double yellows and with on coming traffic. I'd rather ride my ATV up a forestry road at a nice slow 20-35 MPH. I truly feel bad that anyone has to get hurt doing something enjoyable like riding motorcycles. It's a experience everyone should enjoy at least once.

Absolutely... As long as you add some grease or anti-seize you shouldn't have any problems.

No joke...

Most vendors still sell RV275 injectors new. So just select a vendor and contact them for a price. I chose Vulcan Performance for mine but instead of RV275's I got the +50HP because of a better price. (+10 HP more was a bonus...)

Yeah not much for tail grass but steep embankments that they come hauling up in a hurry. For my neighborhood you typically get a feel for where they are hanging out. Certain homes and mountain slopes to gain access to water. Like its rare but still possible to meet up with a deer in the evening hours hiking all the way down the mountain to get to water. I would have to admit that W&F is right about hitting then dead on. Especially broadside is best. But still even out here it still helps a bunch to just slow down at night. During the day your pretty good rare chances of deer being out now most have move from the valley floor and headed for high country where food is plentiful and cooler. As for coverage I've still got full coverage on my diesel truck so if something was to happen I would have the insurance company most likely deal with it.

Sorry to hear about this hopefully he heals up quickly. I'm also a motorcycle rider too. Many many years of riding motorcycles from dirt bikes to full cruisers like a Goldwing. Sad to say the bigger the motorcycle get the easier it is for something to go wrong. I parked my Goldwing because of a overheat issue and never been back on it.

One of the few reason I tend to toss the speed limit out... Because even as of today ITD (Idaho Transportation Dept.) was adding more game crossing signs in my neighborhood. When I got a a front yard like a pasture of course the deer are going to hang out.

Cool! Its always nice to make a few bucks hauling stuff.

I've got my kit sitting in the garage but never done it yet.

Yes... http://www.edgeproducts.com/product.php?pk=71&pvk=211

Doesn't matter what coolant you use the pH level will start out near a 7 pH. Then with time the pH level will shift and change to corrosive nature either acidic lower in pH number 0-6.9 or basic when it rises from 7.1-14. Either way and no matter what brand of coolant it should be flushed out and changed at a proper interval. I see it all so common a shop test for boil/freeze point but never check the pH level of the coolant till the coolant has rotted the guts of the engine and turn the coolant rusty brown. Now its way too late...

So for you it might be a good idea to follow ISX injector cleaning video about every 100k miles or so. Being a 12V is so easy you could even do it more often. The only change I know to his cleaning method I like is using carburetor dip and it all wipes off. Just make sure to take all rubber off the parts.

Check out this article. http://www.businessinsider.com/conservatives-purposely-making-cars-spew-black-smoke-2014-7

Boy those nozzle where filthy. The first pic and the upper injector you can clearly see the build up around the spray nozzle. I'm sure it was interfering with quality of spray. Need to hitch up more and get some pyrometer temps up and cook those clean. Or that's right Florida don't have any big mountains...

Yeah that true... But few different things there is much much more heat in the cylinder head and the backing plate of the rotor is much much tighter fit than cross over tube. Hard to see it but the plastic lip comes all the way around the outside filling the void. It just the whole cracked diaphragm is out of date for the most part. What I've found on the hard starting is excessive cranking pressure. The lift pump should be modulated at 7-12 PSI during cranking. If greater than about 14-15 PSI hard starting occurs because of excessive advanced timing. This why the stock lift pump is modulated 50% duty cycle to reduce lift pump pressure during starting. Problem is most people get carried away with running pressure that they create the starting issue.

Neither will happen. Plastic is most likely never going to break being its backed up with harden steel metal disc molded to it. O-rings typically would last a very long time before failure being it never moves. So the whole cracked diaphragm is all a Internet myth now. Here is all the guts... Mine you all parts are harden steel. Here is the rotor unit.

I knew your going to say that. Even a small change in injector sizes makes a big impact on performance.

Most likely blocked air flow or poor fan clutch. Fan clutch should lock up tight by about 208-210*F. I pulled many grades with EGT's around 1,100-1,200*F but always max'ed out the coolant temp at about 206-210*F. The face of radiator could be plugged with mud, oily residue from the crankcase vent, etc.