Mopar1973Man

Sign of a bad ECM. WTS light should come on for a bulb check each time.

Yea the P0216 code... Mechanical failure of the injection pump on the timing piston. It seems your pump has taken on damage. I would clear the code and see if the code returns.

Actually no. Because if you truly running for MPG's you boost should be below 5 PSI if so there is no flowing exhaust really (Back pressure). I'm still running 3" exhaust just straight piped and no issues at all with MPG's. Actually you find slightly warmer intake air temps promote better MPGs more than anything. Between 100-140*F you'll get you better MPG than colder air will.

DW I could and you didn't even swing up into Idaho to say "Hi!"... Geez...

I found a article a while back that explains a weird behavior of the IAT sensor. Say for example the IAT is forced 143*F, the coolant is actually 195*F and the outside temperature is <60*F you go start the Wait To Start doesn't give any grid heat pre-starting but post-starting there is grid heat. But now if the outside temperature rises to 100*F now there is neither pre-start grid heat or post-start grid heat. The only sensor left on the truck that can sense temperature is battery temp sensor. So the best I can say is the PCM communicates this information to the ECM over the CCD network. Battery temp sensor is designed for controlling charging voltage vs. temperature. But the article I did find the system will use some of the information from the battery temp sensor when and what I'm not sure exactly.

SRW to DRW really doesn't change the carrying capacity of the truck. It just make for a more stable ride that's all. Like adding training wheels to your truck.

Could be any measurement you want for ratio it can be gallons, ounces or even liters. 128:1 Ratio. 128 Gallons of fuel to 1 gallon of oil. 128 Ounces of fuel to 1 ounce of oil. 128 Liters of fuel to 1 liter of oil. All are the same.

That rattle is caused by any performance module. But as boost rises the timing should retard which it does typically. Also the colder the air is the worse the problem gets so warming the air reduces the timing rattle and does produce better MPG for daily driver.

I had one break a wire and so I bought just one sensor. The ABS/BRAKE light remained on till I replace the other sensor then it went out. Even Wild & Free had the same problem.

Still cleaning the RV yet...

Something seems off. What kind of hitch bumper pull or 5th wheel? Are you dual rear axle or single?

Out here its called "Life Flight membership" if you have a medical emergency and life flight is needed then it won't cost you anything if your a member. All they need is dispatcher or a EMS tech to call for it give GPS location and they will come. Even then with country we got they might require EMS to truck you several miles to a LZ for Life Flight to use.

More... Well as for myself I live in rural Idaho and see people living check to check and barely scrapping by. But its such a shocker to go to like Ontario, OR or Boise, ID and see people driving high dollar vehicles, speeding, and shopping till they drop. Totally unreal! Then after getting a load of that for the day I'm more than happy to stroll back up to the mountain cruising at 55-60 MPH. See the run down town of New Meadows, ID I'm happy to see home is just around the corner. I've got no problem living on a tight budget. Thinking about budgets... I know this is thread hijacking... But even the budget of the site is running down hill.

All so common people don't set there sublevels correctly and then suffer from lack of power issues. Or even more common is people on Edge Juice setting the alarms and limits too low and defueling the performance when its needed most.

Grab a standard 30A relay and wire pins 85 and 86 to the lift pump circuit and the code should be stopped then just clear the codes and drive for awhile. Remember all AirDog fuel systems are triggered by a 30A relay.

I was speaking of daily driving. So if your measuring WOT which is more or less no holds bar then the cc flow rate would be higher that stock and the pulse length would most likely be the same (in theory). So yes the RV275 injectors where for the 275 HP RV edition of the Cummins ISB. Just another stock injector. Simple way to show it. Take a 80 PSI water source. Then 2 separate hoses. One hose is going to be a standard 5/8 inch garden hose and the other will be a 1" inch fire hose. Now open the valve at the same time and leave open for say 10 seconds (The delivery time the ECM commands - in theory) and close together. Now measure the water delivered by both. Of course the 1" hose will flow more. The fact is the VP44 is only going to produce like 18,000 to 20,000 PSI (Guessing here) and the pressure will be the same with both injectors but the total flow amount will different. Hence HP increase with larger injectors.

You might want to hook up with LiveOak here or go over to www.tractorfarmandfamily.com and talk to TFFAdmin either way you'll find Randy he's also a beekeeper as well.

Opps my back though it was 2nd Gen... (Backing out of the door slowly)

As fair as I've ever found about the PCM/ECM on the Dodge Ram truck there is no learning cycle. So in other words if the truck is modified the ECM/PCM have no clue no do they change fuelling or timing tables unless the modification is designed to do it. Say like injectors the ECM is only going to fuel X amount of cc's fuel for Y amount of load so it has no clue the injectors are bigger. But like now install Edge or Quadzilla the ECM does what its designed to do but the add on modification will modify the signal to the CANBUS and/or the wire tap on the pump. So even then the ECM really isn't aware of the modification. The only modification is a programmer like a Smarty where it directly changes the ECM software.

You want to do all testing between the BAT terminal on the alternator and the NEG post of the passenger battery. Set for AC scale.

All main electronics (ECM, PCM and VP44) are grounded to the battery cables NOT the body or block. So double check your cables. The body grounds are for lights and other accessories. I suggest you remove all wiring mods or aftermarket devices and return all wiring back to stock lay out. There is absolutely no reason to modify the wiring. Its all about fixing the problem. If the truck ran 10-11 years without this and now requires it now that tells me something is broken and needs to be fixed.

Fixed...

Check your cranking fuel pressure while hot it should be 7-12 PSI.

First check this out... http://www.businessinsider.com/shawn-hogan-sentenced-in-ebay-affiliate-marketing-scam-2014-5 Then some people do things they shouldn't and get in trouble. Read and see what I mean.

Like my slave cylinder if I unbolt it and let it hang out at full extent then it would be like two inches out of the bell housing I would have to shorten mine but then I would have no throw afterwards to disengage the clutch. So the only thing I can say is time to invest in a throw out bearing! I know everyone hates to drop a transmission for this reason but its broke and needs to be fixed.