Mopar1973Man

LOL... I just pull the same stunt yesterday. I hitched up the BigTex 70TV to the little Honda Rancher ATV and proceeded to toss firewood into the trailer with MoparMom. We filled that trailer mounded as as as possible. Then using the little ATV rolled the trailer to the wood shed and stacked the entire 1.75 cords of split firewood. I know I know if you don't have pictures it didn't happen... Next load I'll get a picture of it.

It really does make a difference. I would consider going out first and weighting the truck and trailer and then get the proper bars for said weight. You can figure tongue weight from truck alone (rear axle weight) and truck and trailer (truck rear axle weight) just subtract the two and you should get the tongue weight.

Just something to consider about you master cutoff switch. I've seen plenty of people mount the battery cutoff switch on the battery box. I tend to wonder about how long the switch last with battery acid vapor or water corrosion of the cutoff switch. Kind of like you little trailer your working on Russ you don't want to have exposed wiring to the road elements or battery acid.

Ok... From what I've been playing with I've found there is a roughly 2 MPG gain with two cycle oil vs. without two cycle oil (128:1 ratio). Running colder IAT's on a 24V tend to start losing roughly 1 MPG for every -10*F from 100 IAT temperature. I typically see better MPG numbers in the hot afternoon temps at 100-105*F than in the morning at 50-55*F. Yes. I've got the best of both world cold morning starts and baking heat afternoons. Another odd one that I found about two cycle oil, without two cycle oil in the fuel it will smoke more than with two cycle oil where it barely even smokes. Just tidbits from my daily drive back and forth to work and odd jobs...

It's a direct bolt on item. But still have a hard time seeing why a stock truck would even need one. But if you installed oversized tires and do a lot of offroad use I would see a need for it rather quickly. But as for me I'm still running my 235's and no issues with my steering box or steering looseness. Go figure?

The kit I've got is the Cummins vacuum pump rebuild kit and its only $13 bucks. Now to get time...

All I can say... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/227-p1688-internal-fuel-injection-pump-failure DTC P1688: INTERNAL FUEL INJECTION PUMP FAILURE Monitor & Set Conditions Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) is monitored with ignition on engine off, and with engine running. DTC may set if FPCM, PCM memory, programming or hardware error is detected. Possible Causes Good Trip Counter Equals Zero Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) Testing 1. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DRBIII® scan tool, check for DTCs. If Good Trip Counter for DTC P1688 is displayed and not equal to zero, go to next step. If Good Trip Counter for DTC P1688 is displayed and equal to zero, replace FPCM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. 2. Ensure ignition is on with engine off. Using scan tool, check for DTCs and record FREEZE FRAME data. Try to duplicate conditions recorded in FREEZE FRAME data. Using scan tool, check for DTCs. If DTC P1688 returns, replace fuel injection pump. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. If DTC P1688 does not return, test is complete.

I'm sorry I can't even give you advise on this topic at all. I have no knowledge with HE351VE nor the 3rd or 4th gen exhaust manifolds. I know there are people that do them... Hopefully there is someone that can help you.

The only time I would consider 10w-30 would be in the winter time. Trying to find diesel CI-4 or CJ-4 oils locally in other than 15w-40 is nearly impossible.

I'm always pulling trailers either my RV or the utility trailer but the difference is my two typically weigh in at 7,000 to 8,500 pound in trailer weight given me roughly 16,000 to 17,000 pound gross combined weight.

4 thing that will kill a VP44... 1. Fuel pressure too low. Suggested: 14-20 PSI this is for Bosch requirements of 70% return rate for proper cooling and lubing. 2. Fuel Lubricity score too high. Suggested: <450 HFRR all US diesel fuel scores in about ~520 HFRR considered poor by Bosch's standards. Be careful of the products you select because some actually make the score worse. 3. Excessive AC Noise. Suggested: <0.1 Volts AC measured at the alternator BATT stud. 4. Poor Fuel filtration. Suggested: Using 2 fuel filters. Or even a good quality single filter with a 2-3 micron rating. * footnote for #2 - A lot of products are either injector cleaner or cetane booster this is one product you need to try to avoid using because typically the higher the cetane the low BTU rating is of the diesel hence the MPG's fall then on top of it high cetane fuel in the summer tends increase injector noise. You should never mix products together. Read over the SDS sheet and the chemicals. Then think of how those chemicals might react with the 2 cycle oil. http://www.howeslube.com/MSDS_Sheets/US/Diesel_Treat_SDS_-_U.S.pdf

Some people when they get lucky grab a 12V tappet cover and slap it on and don't worry about it again.

PCM, ECM and VP44 all get there ground from the battery ground cables. There is no body ground connection for those units. Did you have the field lead pulled too? But its odd there is no AC noise measured. The only reason I asking about the field lead is Pepsi was explaining how his was wore out field brushes causing EMF noise from the arcing of the brushes.

I've been know to go out camping leave the RV for long periods. I would hate to have some smart ar$e kid come by and see the switch on the tongue go click and have my entire fridge spoil. Not to mention I don't want any connections outside where road salt is going to attack the electrical. Not to mention if I need a quick way to cut power open cabinet, CLICK! 12 volt is now gone. I had a night where the dog was passing gas and set off the propane alarm and talk about a fight to find my leatherman, hunt there the 12V fuse panel pulling fuses, till it went off. There is a reset but it only last for about 30 seconds and trips again. At 3am in the morning you willing to just cut the power and go back to sleep deal with airing out the RV in the morning.

Like I said place my thumb over the hole 2 more pumps. Throw the plug in. both the 1996 or the 2002 neither truck leak nor do then blow oil out. But I can tip the plug and it over fill slightly so I can get a sample and know its still full. With 2 trucks here and all 4 axles overfilled slightly no issues its got to be a myth about making axles or pinion seal leak with a few extra ounces.

Know what would work really well??? Either make a outerwears or buy one but take the cloth sock and spray it camp dry. That would repel all the water from the filter.

If you were in Central Idaho I would be glad to help you but sad to say no one is... Sigh. It's been a long day. Worked at the shop till I ran out of parts and the boss man kicked me out the door. (Not really). Got to split and go home early. Ate lunch and chilled out. Headed for town early and help a fellow fire fighter get the watering down on the road. He's not all the bad of a driver but the pure size of the truck does intimidate most people looking over the nose of the hood. So after I got back to the parking lot I bailed for the board meeting. Had a change of hands in the board members of the fire dept and things are changing. Now I've got another fire fighter to train on the truck but he's never really driven anything this big. Going to be a challenge to teach to a guy from the ground up on how to drive 65,000 pound Kenworth carrying 4,000 gallons of water.

Simple solution is to take each bolt out and put a dab of silicone or loc-tite on the threads of the bolt and tighten again. That should help seal it up.

The only thing I can say is ask the store owner. I've found some stores/stations use water block filters or some use just filters. Micron ratings might vary from brand to brand.

Little secret there is quite of bit of air that slips through the gap of the hood. I tend to see more rain and such from the hood gap than the underside of the truck. Not unless your a big puddle jumper then you might see more of splash problem.

Well I just found out I've got a fire dept. board meeting tonight and a oxygen sensor to go install yet this evening... Just never stops does it?

Here is my setup... To the very left is the DC fuse panel, analog volt gauge and cutoff switch. On the floor is the 1,200w inverter and solar controller. To the right is the 120V breaker box with transfer switch for the inverter.

BHAF you can't go wrong but the heat shield as ISX has proven isn't really needed being the air filter temperature is about 2-5*F over outside temperature while driving. Idling of course it with rise but no big hurt while idling. I will admit the heat shield is impressive...

I typically use plain old silicone sealant and 85w-90 GL-5 gear lube (Petroleum). I always over fill slightly I take my thumb and place over the hole and pump in about 2 more barrel pumps more of gear lube. This way and inspection time I unscrew the plug tip it a for a brief second take a sample on my finger and screw the plug back in. So the overfill thing is a total myth.

Could you please post your AC voltage. A lot of people assume a much higher number than what it should be. Normal: 0.01 to 0.05 VAC Failure: > 0.1 VAC