Mopar1973Man

High idle and MPG fooler is a good step in the right direction it will aid in MPG's. I'm finding out now with the Version 2 fooler which makes it easy to check performance on the fooler or stock setting. Give you a feel I can reach as low as 650-700*F EGT's and about 7 PSI of boost hauling my RV at 55 MPH (GCW 16,820#) but seeing between 13-14 MPG on flat ground.

Nothing was dumped. Started out with 50 gallons of water came home with the 50 gallons of water just no longer in the fresh water tank but split up among 3 holding tanks (2 grey water and 1 black water). 99.9% of the time I travel with a full water tank because MoparMom and myself can't drink city water at all it makes us sick.

That's wicked...

Transmission will build a small amount of pressure from the heat expanding gases inside. But no fluid should be venting from the dipstick tube just a small amount of vapor and gases as the fluid heats and cools.

Welcome to the family... Make sure you accepting cookies and also you click the "Remember Me" check box to tell the forum to remember your cookie. If you don't the cookie with timeout over a period of time and drop your login. If your still having issue let me know and we'll work it out.

This is a common issues that people don't check the piston to bore clearance. It will cause the piston to bind up and stick.

I would take a step farther and test the fuel pressure of the rail and see where it sits too. Too much or too little fuel pressure can create mixture issues. Some vehicles use a vacuum regulator to regulate fuel pressure in the rail might want to check. Spark plug gap would cause more of a misfire code P0300 to P0308 codes. Maybe you should get them a ScanGauge II and calibrate it for them...

Look nice but, I thought I spend a bunch of money at $1,100 for my rims and tires. I'm really curious of the long term use of the tire and performance. If the tire wears longer and handles snow and ice with good characteristics I would be all for converting to 19.5 tires. I'm like AH64ID in a lot of ways because of my constant on and off roads and travelling dirt roads tend to chew tires up rather quickly.

Dang, Ed... That's no fun giving away the secret.

Truck wise I know that many people are over the GVWR number I tend to watch the GAWR more so. Even the trailer is getting close to margin with 480# to spare.

It if was me... Either laptop or desktop I would remove the hard drive and attach to a second computer as a storage drive. This way you can copy every single file on the computer without Windows making a mess of it. Not to mention this allows you to check the drive for SMART error or problems because the drive is not booted or in service by Windows. Sad thing is if you had Linux I would have you install one program openssh-server and the let me login I would be able to diagnose and tell you what is going on not to mention create a full backup because Linux already has backup software as part of the core operating software. But regardless of what ever software you run you should ALWAYS back up your hard drive at least weekly. As you'll see I'm setup with two hard drives one is main runner and the second is my backup drive. Thumb drive will work for small amounts of data, but burning DVD's might work better if you have burning software. Or the best yet copy all data to second known good hard drive.

Not yet... Patience my dear friends... Let's say I'll be directly part of the design work of the project. I'll be working under Ed's lead. That;s the best I can tell you all.

Well coming home from my mini-get-away trip. I stopped in Council, ID and used the truck scales to weigh the truck and trailer. Truck Front Axle: 4,160# Truck Rear Axle: 4,640# Truck Gross: 8800# Truck GVWR: 8800# Trailer Axle: 8,020# Trailer GVWR: 8,500# GCW: 16,820# Funny part is I'm a ways from the axle weight limits yet on the truck at 5,200# front and 6,084# on the rear. But hit the GVWR right on the nail. Pull the trailer good and strong no issues at all. Seems like I kept putting more and more gear in the RV and storing there so now the RV weight has been creeping up. Time to do inventory and find out what I do need and don't need. When I bought the trailer and weight it coming home with nothing in it was 7,300# then so I've nearly got a 1,000 pounds of cargo & supplies now. Even last summer I had weights of 7,500 to 7,800 pounds.

I typically stay with Green coolant but this last batch was Yellow SuperTech. But before ever adding coolant I always make sure to flush the system out and start over fresh with one color of coolant.

That must be old because the 027 Rev pump I tore down has a harden steel plate. There is no diaphragm in these pump.

Here is another Happy Birthday out for... Ilikeoldfords MoparMom happen to take notice to your about the same time Dripley's.

I thought we already are...

Short to ground. Check all electrical for shorts to ground. +12V -> Fuse -> Headlight <- Dimmer Switch <- Headlight Switch <- GROUND

Harbor freight for my 1/4" inch/pound bar and my 3/8" foot/pound bar. My 1/2" foot pound bar is a wore out Craftman's.

P0252 and the P1688 code is a electronics failure of the PSG on the VP44. The electronics typically fail from a few different things. Heat from lack of fuel pressure to keeping it cooled. Then dirty power from the alternator it should be less than 0.1 AC volts present. Yes water hammer pulse will kill sensors, low pressure switches, and mechanical gauge the same way.

Normal. Some injectors will have one shim and somee will have two or possibly more shims to tune the pop pressure. The torques you list are right but I prefer to use a inch/pound bar for the injector hold down caps. As for the assembly of the injectors I would torque the collar nut to 30 foot/pounds.

Always strange how you leave the pavement and get way back in the middle of nowhere and you manage to find a nail, sharp rock, tree stob, chainsaw file some left in the road, etc. Hmmm... That's one thing I've never done is rotated the spare into the mix. I still got the factory Mitchellin LTX on the rim and it looks brand new maybe 300 miles on it tops. (265/75 R16) I know eventually I'll have to change the spare out for something else 12 years old of a tire the rubber will be getting rather old. But I tend to like the LRG's more so than the LRE's.

I gotta admit you mini panel area work out awesome and looks good too.

I like Rancherman's idea there with the wire. If you have to wrap a few rounds of wire around it to give more strength to hold larger chains. I've seen some wild redneck idea on how to tie spring down for little cars with just standard bailing wire.

Still it would be best to use a hand throttle knob for pump operations. But for vehicle accidents and other things that just require engine R's to be held high for alternator (scene lights, emergency lights, heater, etc) it works awesome for that purpose.