Mopar1973Man

PacBrake has a lockup controller you might check in on it.

You should of seen the looks I got from all the RV'ers in Hell's Gate RV park. Fancy diesel pushers and 5th wheel trailers and here I pull in with a muddy RV and pickup. Oh boy! I was a good conversation piece in that campground. I kind of screwed up and parked in the wrong spot #39 and started rinsing off some of the mud and then some one pulls up and says "I think your in the wrong spot." sure enough I looked again at the receipt I was suppose to be in #49... http://www.reserveamerica.com/camping/hells-gate-state-park/r/campgroundDetails.do?contractCode=ID&parkId=311023#sr

50??? That's all??? Congrads to you DW... Cyber party? Hmmm... So what do we do FAX you a beer or shot of whiskey?

DAP sells pumps with a wire tap warranty now. http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/sovp44-wiretap.htm

Yeah gang... I ran away with the RV once again. This trip I learn a lesson. Consider you short cuts and road conditions wisely. MoparMom and I ran out toward Lewiston, ID for a two day getaway. But on my way to Lewiston I normally always take Tolo Lake cut off and sneak across a few miles of dirt roads to save a bit of time. Well this time the roads where wet and possibly freshly graded. I look in the mirrors and could see mud being slung as high as the roof. I couldn't resist I had to grab the camera and shot some pictures.

Yeah I know very well... (Results are roughly speaking) http://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm

Here is the turbine boat video clip. untitled.mp4 Doing a bit of attachment testing too with this post.

Awesome photo period! Congrads!

This is why most daily drivers I talk to see little to no difference in upgrading exhaust. There was a person a while back that dyno'ed 3" and then upgrade to 4" and dyno'ed again and no difference was noticed. Now the ultimate way of fixing the exhaust issues is talk to TH Racing here on the site he's got a Cummins header.

Both my trailers (BigTex 70TV and Jayco Eagle) are standard leaf spring packs tandem axles. I tend to favor the leaf spring suspension over torsion axles. But that's just me.

Hey, AH64ID. How much did those Dexter EZ-Flex cost you and where did you purchase them at?

I would double check the fluid level and being you did put in a vacuum pump rebuild did you double check to line up the coupler between the vacuum pump and the power steering pump?

I'm not exactly fond of the pump design with sliding vanes which is the exactly the same design of the stock Carter and Holley pumps.

Awesome so far I figured your going to replace the entire roof. I wonder how the Eternalbond tape will hold up to the test of time and weather. Still doing a awesome job for repairs...

Impressive... 200GPH http://fuelab.com/products/diesel/velocity-200-gph-airfuel-separator/velcoity-200-gph-airfuel-seperator-dodge/item/30303/ 100 GPH http://fuelab.com/products/diesel/velocity-100-gph-system/velocity-100-gph-system-dodge/item/30301/

So why isn't people increasing the size of all the intake piping and intercooler? (Just to make people think a bit).

No joke. That's why I stay after the washing of the truck because I hate to have to use a putty knife to find all the bolts like I do on customers rigs. Not to mention it does reduce failures of parts because of less contact with grit from dust and oil build-up.

More of that here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives

Fuel pressure is too low and should be kept between 14-20 PSI at all times for optimal health of the VP44. But you have a seized timing piston and most likely nothing can be done about it now (P0216). The other cause for this is lack of fuel lubricity and not meeting Bosch's requirement of <450 HFRR where most today's fuel is ~520 HFRR. The dead pedal is a sign of a bad alternator and AC noise causing shifting issues with the torque converter. So I would have the alternator tested for AC noise and also scan for any error codes to give more clues.

Good point! I forgot to consider that myself.

I'm using the old school draw straw outside the basket. No issues here for the most part. I can drive all the way down to the empty mark with this old school straw.

I personally do not see much advantage to free spin hubs being I'm already above the average norm for MPG with solid locked axles. Unit bearings last much much longer with smaller lighter wheels than wide heavier wheels and tires. So what every 8-9 year I change a set of unit bearing and able to reach into the 20's for MPG's. The only thing that does happen with free spin hubs is you not have a maintenance interval of hand packing the bearings and having to keep a part number list for the oddball parts you now modified to the truck. I will admit unit bearings are expensive but if you take care of your truck and not abuse the bearing with heavy/wide tires they should last a very long time.

I'm not too worried about it I checked the hosting of our site and it was corrected within days of being reported. Then as for Ubuntu Linux it was repaired in a few days too (7th April, 2014). Since I don't use Encryption on my personal computer nor the web site there is no need to worry. It's only encrypted sites like Facebook, Banking sites, etc. Anything that uses "https" prefix. http://www.ubuntu.com/usn/usn-2165-1/ All web sites that use "http" are excluded as far as I know because of not using the encryption. I use KeepassX for password database and sample passwords I use are... https://www.grc.com/passwords.htm 5216AD4D289523DF866C01B8FC1BA7BEB83885D6254164FBEECC0983B8ECADB8 g(;a_5$WPRaA~xwe0'GS2gn.[eMSEX.QPNVSJK('$LO_XLg:YwjXgrVoOjx<1L5 C5XdUG83V4eGUbNoQ85oCEvYVcNm2wAQuG8JBQ8hlcBwI8gv2hWfijFLmYNqt7D

More than likely binding the ground wire to the PCM I suggest you remove it and return to stock wiring and fix the real issue which is typically a bad alternator diode. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/260-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues

As for daily drivers even 3" has no effect to MPG or daily driver performance because typically your at very low boost pressure and even drive pressures so the 3" exhaust has very little effect. But 4" is optimal but once your boost/drive pressures are on average very low. Now for full on racing I can see possibly that 4" exhaust doing better than 3" because the extremely high boost pressure and the drive pressure of the exhaust system. Depends on where you at and what your doing of what is best for exhaust system. But the turbine housing is the biggest choke point than the exhaust elbow.