Mopar1973Man

POR15 or some waste engine oil. I do live in the rust belt I just keep the truck washed off. suggestion to John is remove the line if you can and take it into a part store and get part numbers at least even if they don't stock it. Then you can use them as a cross reference to RockAuto or similar places.

Here is the article on it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/23-brake-system/55-drum-brake-wheel-cylinder-upgrade

Just for translation for your link... Автор говорит: "Моё стандартное вождение в пробке. Авто - Nissan Pathfinder" The author says: "My standard driving in traffic. Cars - Nissan Pathfinder"

Double check there is a Load Range G tire out there with a speed rating of Q (99 MPH) and its still a ST tire.

I've got a electric rock.

Might want to check on 5 gallon bucket prices typically are better.

I spend a good hour laying on a creeper looking up at the frame and everything with a flashlight. I take notes of oil leaks, fluids level, color, and smell. Look for worn parts or damage parts. I more or less treat my truck like a airplane because if a airplane has a failure it usually turns out rather poor. When I live its the same thing. If my truck breaks down and leave me walking might turn out very poor or deadly. No cell service and might have to walk in some seriously cold weather. I'm responsible truck owner. What taught me a lesson was a ex-girlfriend. She bought a brand new Ford Ranger pickup. Nice truck and fun to drive. We'll on our ride back from over in the back country of Washington she slid off the road and blew a tire off the rim. She assumed the spare was good because it was never used. So far from true. Well the truck had a lock to keep people from stealing the tire she had no idea how to even unlock it. Then after that she had no idea where the jack and hardware was. Then after finding all that and lower the tire down to find out it only had about 15-20 PSI in the tire. So it was enough but very squirrelly driving. Now I check everything... Like in my last maintenance check of the BigTex 70TV trailer I found my trailer spare was flat. I never assume anything anymore.

Good Gawd John when was the last time you gave that thing a rust treatment?

Yea He's right Moog bars are too big I remember reading it in the instructions of the Luke's Links documents.

I make it part of my schedule maintenance to check the spare tire and it cable for damage at the same time check the tire condition, tire pressure, etc. So while I'm doing all this I'll lube up the cable winch and put it all back together.

After today's run in the Cummins to Ontario with temps as low as +6°F and IAT's down to +21°F. No I didn't put my winter fronts on. Boy did I pay for it. Coolant temps hovered right between 188-193*F and IAT's continued to follow the outside temperatures right at about +15°F to +30°F for the day. The only saving grace was the MPG fooler. So I'm upgrading ASAP to a 200*F thermostat and getting my winter front back on this truck.

Banjos just have to much restrictions even measured for ID sizes but just the fact of the huge twist in the flow pattern isn't good either.

Another good video in my bookmarks...

Heck I just go done with a full day of shopping in Ontario, OR with temperatures ranging from barely even +6°F and high of about +25°F out. About 3 good cold starts on the truck with no block heater. Out here in Idaho the current bushes tend to die off ever fall of the year so there is no current bushes to plug your truck into but the Might Cummins can with stand it just fine. I just kick the high idle on and let it warm up to at least 100°F and leave.

Now if you had only the Edge Comp and the RV275 it would be very controlled but now stacking the Smarty now you out stepped the even HX35W turbo. I've got +50 HP Injectors and Edge Comp and its a wicked combo as is.

Q: what is your fuel pressure like with a starter bump? Q: Does the fuel flow freely from the end at the VP44 if the banjo / fitting is removed? Just because you hear the lift pump doesn't mean its pumping.

Yes. I can leave mine active and row gears never have the brake engage unless I delay 2 seconds then it will. So I could for example know I'm coming to a stop gear down and leave my foot of the throttle and have it engage right after the downshift. If I want instant on. I got to be coasting for long periods but leave the throttle alone but control the brake with my thumb switch on the stick and the brake is instant because the delay has already been meet because throttle IVS (Idle Validation Switch) has idle switch set over 2 seconds.

I would also replace the relay. Maybe just maybe the reed in the relay is weak and current flow is created resistance in the relay which is driving up the current rate and popping the fuse. Remember as voltage at the load goes down the amperage has to go up to match its working load watts. 140w = 14 volts x 10.0 amps 140w = 12 volts x 11.6 amps 140w = 10 volts x 14.0 amps As you can see just a relay with a bit more resistance can drive the working amperage up in a real hurry. Should see what it does to a engine starter with a weak starter contact or bad battery cables the amperage draw its nearly explosive. This is another reason I typically ask people to do a voltage drop test on the wiring under working loads to see if the circuit is dropping more than 0.2 volts (which is a fail). http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables

Then your about right for delay for the Jacobs brake that is ECM controlled. Too bad its not based off of throttle control so you could still row gears and then just release your throttle foot for braking.

I don't think there is any up or down side. Being the HY35W turbo is without a divider and the HX35W turbo has a divider.

As long as you keep those 265's you shouldn't have much problems with your track bar or tie rod ends. Like myself I've still got OEM tie rod ends and change 1 set of ball joints and a track bar.

I'm pretty sure even ISX would suggest setting your timing to about 14* BTDC for common/daily driver. Excessive timing just moves your optimal power band up in RPM.

Be aware MPG is affect by ECT numbers too cold and MPG do slump off. I suggest the 190*F be used for all applications and not the 180*F. I'm going to be considering the 200*F thermostat myself for the diesel.

Some day in the near future I'll have to do the tappet cover (cam cover) seal.

Another place... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhaf.htm