Mopar1973Man

Yes. There is a limit to all flash programmers. They have to work within the fuel table of the ECM and its limits. Hence the 60-65 HP Limit because it doesn't expand the fuel table beyond 20 PSI of boost. It just uses the last known figure on the table. Here is a example of what I mean. So the red area typically would be your defueling and error code range. The Smarty converts these values into working map. But if the truck operates above these value the ECM just uses the last known value of the table because it can't see beyond that. It also has to play by all the rules of the ECM and VP44 software. This why boxes like Edge and Quadzilla are so popular. Because now when a Edge Product gets to the end of the ECM fueling table the module takes over and calculates its own fuel map above and beyond the ends of the ECM. Since the data would cause a error for sure on the normal CANBUS it fed into the VP44 by the wire tap. This way the module can module the timing and fuel pulse length by reshaping the pulse.

I normally use just plain old clear silicone in a caulking gun. (RTV) stands for Room Temperature Vulcanization...

I see Dripley took my clue. I ran till 30k miles and didn't even look dirty for fuel filters.

You could download a service manual and get the procedure on how to do it. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/7157-file-downloads/?hl=downloads

Here is the brake pressure test gauge by Summit Racing. Here is the boiling point information http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

I say anytime you drop the transmission pan you should always adjust the bands and inspect the condition of them as well. Foolish not to adjustment them while the pan is down.

Yea... AH64ID is right. 14-20 PSI is optimal. 10-14 PSI is marginal. Then anything below 10 PSI is damaging. It's like saying the Cummins engine will function at 10 PSI of oil pressure at idle and 30 PSI at 2k RPM's. So how long do you expect the engine is going to last running at bare minimum oil pressures?

Personally I don't see any reason for synthetics lubes but use standard 80w-90 GL-5 gear lube for my standard open differential axles. If you have a Limited Slip then you have to consider lube with the friction modifier or get buy the friction modifier separately. Being that petroleum lubes have done a excellent job up to 224k miles and no failures and excellent MPG's (Highmark at 27.2 MPG last summer).

Remember if you using a exhaust brake on the stock turbo your going to be stuck there with the stock turbo unless you upgrade to a inline exhaust brake. With my +50HP Injectors and Edge Comp I'm pretty close to limits as well EGT's and boost wise. So I would say Wild and Free is close to the mark as well.

Like on the Edge Juice the setting is where full defuel is at. So if you set at 1,200*F then it start defueling at like 1,000*F and tapering off till it gets to 1,200*F and at full defuel. So just like a limit on boost set the boost limit like at 32 PSI its start defueling at say 22-25 PSI and works it way to full defuel. So now if you had both set up now you would have two separate defueling curves affecting the upper end power. Once again its best to just disable all limits and alarms.

You could drill it out while the engine is running then the pressure of the exhaust blows the chips back out and the twist of the pull the chips up as well.

Right on. We'll finally find out what's inside a VP44 and get it posted up on the site with LOTS of pictures.

Still kind of have to giggle to myself. Different world where I live. First of all you have to have a functional transmit and receive system going. There is no cell towers in my area for miles and miles. Like even our fire radio don't even work in certain areas because of the metals within the mountain. CB Radios are no different. So good luck for NSA they would have to be parked on the highway with a portable tower. Now I could see something like Spokane area and CDA being a issues because there is towers everywhere. Even with 3 radio towers transmitting at way more than a cell tower I cannot transmit from my handheld to Grangeville, ID for a fire call at the house I have to drive to the fire shed pick up the fire truck and still keep driving for another 5 miles to get good signal. This is true story. Even GPS signal out here is spotty because of the canyon walls and tree cover that's way SAR leader is forces us to drop the GPS and use a paper map mostly. Even the scare of the Smart Meter is not true down here because the signal can't get out of the canyon the power company has to still drive the highway and to get all the meter reading it just they don't have to drive in your yard. Even going farther. I've been studying on how hackers crack WPA and WEP WiFi signals and that doesn't take too much. Pretty easy I might say and gain much more information about a person. There is a sign over in LonePine, ID that is a huge warning sign stating, "All CB communication are null and void for the next 15 miles" This a warning for mostly logging trucks but the issue is the mountain absorbs the the signal. But now on the flip side when I leave the canyon yes I return to normal cell signal yes I can see being tracked. Be my guest your most likely find my truck parked in Ontario, OR Wal-Mart or Home Depot.

More information and talk to the group that is in the know of it. http://www.smartyresource.com

Another reason I'm trying hard to finish working on the site and close up the 2 forum back to private status again. Not easy re-mapping a security layout on a new software. As for cell phones and connection with law enforcement I'm really against it myself. I prefer to keep my privacy and location unknown to people. Another reason I really never got big on cellphones but I do own one but since the cell coverage is very limited I'm not to worried. Like Riggins, ID has about a 2 square mile cell coverage enter town on the south end you got cell signal leave town on the north end you lose cell signal that simple. As for Adams, Co Sheriff I've already been told a couple of time if some is to happen down here I'm basically on my own. The average response time to my place is going to be better than a hour maybe 2 hours depending. Even then they don't like coming into the canyon themselves because there is no radio signal nor cell service so they are on there own too.

The only problem with any flood or fog light is check and see if the lens is replaceable and how much. I've had several high dollar lighting systems over the years and watch my money go down the drain as soon as a rock shatters the lens out of the lights. I've now flopped over to cheap seal beam bulbs they are still 100w bulb and very bright but only $18 to $22 to replace the entire bulb. I've seen grown men cry when they take a truck offroad and crush a expensive set of PIAA's or LightForce's.

I've got a alarm on mine I got a Cummins low fuel pressure switch, LED, and a cheap Radio Shack chime. Just add a tee and place the switch with the gauge supply. Now wire up the chime and the LED so when the switch comes on turns on both the chime and the LED. Still much much less than $300 bucks.

Most isolators behave this way. Just really rare to see a working last for very long either.

On my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 its 43 PSI in the front and 27 PSI in the rear. Absolutely flat wear on the tires. On the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 its 57 PSI in the front and 37 PSI in the rear. Also flat wear across the tires. Now towing I just inflate the rear to 57-60 PSI I'm golden.

Just remember you gauge accuracy isn't as good and your relying on a electronic module to convert electrical signal to gauge readings. Mechanical gauges far better gauges and do rely on any electronics at all.

There is a wide selection of modules and programmers. Me personally I'm more of a Edge Comp guys because the adjust on the fly and little to zero problems with them. Smarty is another good selection of programmer rock solid but I tend to be fussy about being able to change my tune on the fly. Diablo Power Puck was another favorite out there. TST and Smarty Combo is the best yet. All the fuel a TST can give then a boost of more fuel from Smarty and then all the timing Smarty can give... ScanGauge II is a good tool for diagnostic purpose being it can see live data and trip data on the fly.

I tend to watch both sides of the filter media (outer and inner) if the outer media is packed then tap or shake the majority. Then looking at the inner media for discoloring. Filter minder is a good tool but still there is nothing better than visual inspections to be sure. Glow plug sure do make a huge difference in starting on a cold morning. If the glow plugs are marginal or non-functional then hard starting can be noticed. But like others have said I would check power all the way down from the batteries to the glow plugs themselves to be sure there is good strong power reaching. But being you mention you had weak glow plugs at least its a easy fix for you.

I could do like Dorkweed with the 100k and 200k already.

Heck... I'm having a heat wave today at 41*F...

Nothing. Factory bore.