Mopar1973Man

I typically see about 130-135*F at hghway speed at 100-110*F outside temp. I can see huge spikes of 160*F (or higher) hitting the exhaust brake.

I'm hidding my camers for while till April when I can turn on the water aand wash both trucks. They are both looking rather nasty.

Usually I see hotter temps at slower speeds like in town cruising speed limit at 25 MPH city or 15 MPH residential. Less wind flow to cool the intercooler.

Fuel Pressure on my truck is 17.5 at idle and 16 at WOT. So if you losing over 5 PSI I would highly consider looking into your fuel pump and see whats going on. All I got is a AirDog 150.

I'm running Vulcan Performance +50HP injectors now. Very sweet power and nearly smokeless at 5x3 on the Edge Comp.

I'm seen several threads about remodelling or gutting RV's its not a easy nor a job for the timid...

??? I seen as high as 150*F cruising with 110-115*F summer heat.

I've seen several run as high as 40 PSI but no one ever keep it there for very long nor was willing to report how it was doing. Maybe because it blew the seal? Damaged the Vp44 pump? Onee guy was proud of his mechanical 12V fuel pump at about 35-40 PSI but he disappeared.

Forgot the camera and was too busy and forgot to ask... i'm pretty sure its a 2006 Ford 550 truck with utility box. Automatic and 4WD.

(Shaking my head) I never left a computer repair that long even with shipping parts from Boise, ID or even New York. A matter of fact I'll be doing a Linux class with a friend that spending the evening here at the house. Then we got split early in the morning doing a few jobs.

Time to hook a set of manifold gauges and verify your lo and hi side pressures. If the compressor is cycling that is a bad sign. The compressor should remain lock at all times for proper performance and should only cycle out a maximum of 3 times a minute. But even then your performance is reduced with a cycling compressor. I typically will hold the RPM's up to 1,500 to 2,000 RPM's and check the pressures again watching for the cycling if still cycling then I would add more freon to keep it locked. But remember the lower the lo side pressure gets the more colder it gets, but the lo side has a pressure switch that cuts out at about 25-30 PSI to prevent freezing up the evaporator.

Up to about 75HP injectors you'll get a small gain then the nozzle gets too big by the time you reach 100 HP and gain are typically starting to fall. So its best to use a smaller injector and wire tapped module than a larger injector and programmer. same out come of power but typically the smaller injectors will do better.

That's the problem Smarty is really limited for smoke control compared to the Edge Products. At least with Edge you can select how much defuel your going to give. Like myself I've been running 5x3 or 120 HP with defuel mode (67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost). This gives me excellent performance and nearly smoke free just a slight haze. So returning to Smarty I don't know of a way to defuel for turbo lag.

That's truly sad. I built computers for a living. Even with a pile of parts I could assemble a full computer and load all the software in about 2 hours completed. Heck in a one week time I could build 28 computers. It they still aren't done. OMG! I think they need some new geeks...

You tell him...

Well sorry I was in a hurry to split and forgot my camera. But we managed to get it off the trailer and look it over and very please with our purchase. It's going to work out to be a excellent Fast Attack Fire Truck. I'll update with information when I get it I'm just scattered brained yet. Still trying to catch up with stuff... Ugh!

What the deal is that you want to open up the injector a bit and allow the fuel to get into the cylinder faster (shorter time) but you want to keep a small injector to get the best atomization and best conversion of mist to vapor to ignition. Kind of like taking a garden hose spray gun and light mist upwards above you on a hot day the mist nearly evaporates as it falls. But now take a 2 1/2" fire nozzle and attempt the same thing and you get huge drops falling back down just wet. Remember liquid fuel doesn't burn only the vapor does so if your flooding the cylinder excessively all your doing is creating a lot of black smoke. It a balance between boost and fuel. Hopefully in April I'll be able to jump on the rollers and find out what I'm producing. I'm fairly smokeless and running so strong 2nd and 3rd gear its possible to break the tires loose.

If it wasn't for the fact that Dodge owners didn't ask so damn much for there used trucks we (or the Fire Chief) would of bought a Dodge over a Ford but Ford 550 trucks are cheaper by near 5,000-8,000 dollars over any Dodge of like year. The fire dept spent right around $6,900 for this truck. Like I said I'll get more information and pic today.

Check voltage drop of your main cables to see where your at... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables

Wow... I'm set for about 17-18 PSI and barely see 0.5 PSI drop with grid heaters. Even then I can disable the grid heaters by just unhooking the battery leads for them. April is coming soon and I'll just unhook the grid heaters. Grid heaters are not much of a issue for me on fuel pressure.

Remember the timing is a dynamic thing. It still advances and retards but the timing is over all retarded compared to without the fooler. Like with P7100 pumps the more you bring timing down to like 13-14* realm the torque typically moves down in the RPM's. Where advance timing the torque curve typically moves up in RPM's hence which in racing they typically go upwards 16-17* and even more optimizing the torque curve for the RPM's. So the fooler is attempting to bring the timing value down to daily driver level mostly for city and non-interstate driving. As for Interstate driving the speed is typically to fast and the wind drag to great to see much change.

I use the fooler empty or towing without problem. As IAT temperature falls the VP44 advances timing excessively. Without the fooler I drop considerable through the winter time and the timing rattle is excessive. So when I select the MPG position you can hear the timing shift in about 1-2 seconds and the rattle is gone as well as the ScanGauge II popping up 2-3 MPG roughly. But still in all the colder the temperature actually is the worse the MPG's get. I typically keep winter fronts in my truck well into April to keep the IAT temperature up as much as possible. The thing is the whole cold air intake thing tend to be backwards for MPG's because if you driving conservatively the boost pressure is low so there is no manifold heat really so the liquid diesel fuel takes more time to convert from liquid mist to vapor to ignite. So the extra manifold heat aids in the conversion process shorting the time. As for IAT temperature the colder the more advanced the timing gets and then coupled with high cetane fuel with quick ignition rate and low BTU value the timing get excessively advanced and that is where the heavy timing knock comes from so the high IAT temp value tends to retard the timing which brings it back to reason.

Lets say optimal manifold temperatures are about 140*F outside so outside temperature needs to be about 100*F. So for every 10* below the 140*F IAT you lose roughly 1 MPG. Remember this is economy running not racing.

I might be in error but I'll find out tomorrow... I'm tired and been on the road for 3 days...