Mopar1973Man

If its coming from the weep hole then yes the water pump shaft seal is damaged and leaking but typically they continue to leak. I've seen mine when I bought it brand new where the water pump o-ring was bad and weeped coolant now and then. I'm thinking this might be the story for you as well.

Still touching 17.0 to 17.5 on 1996 Dodge Ram with just the winter fronts... Without the winter fronts drops down to 12.5 to 13 MPG.

At least when I re-man something myself I know it going to meet my level of satisfaction...

I think its a good idea of changing the water pump o-ring again. I would lightly sand the hole to ensure the water pump o-ring is going to slid in smoothly and not ball up.

Correct the grid heater is right there on the manifold and it creates temperatures as high as 480-500*F to start a cold Cummins engine. It draws 95 Amps per grid heater being there is 2 elements in the grid heater you can draw 190 Amps total during a cold start.

I agree pop those injectors out and have them pop tested.

Actually this is a sign of plugged up evaporator core. As you can see no matter what the air must flow through the evaporator first before the blend door which is just to the firewall side of the heater core.

Open them up before buying new ones and look at what you got you might be fine.

Compressed air, 2x4 block and a flat blade screwdriver. Use the compressed air and the 2x4 to get the pistons out. The screwdriver to pry out the weather boots. I bought my parts and supplies at RockAuto.Com. The only thing I can see that would force me to get new callipers would be rust pits. But since I keep the brake fluid fresh and callipers clean I might never have to change callipers. I typically just use a bucket of hot soapy water and scrub everything down then blow dry everything instantly with compressed air.

I've been using DOT 3 brake fluid. But flush the system every 30k miles and then break down my callipers every 60k miles or so. After bleeding once typically you push the debris from the master cylinder down to the callipers or wheel cylinders. So I typically will pull them apart and clean the debris out. I'm still running stock brake lines yet zero problems. More on brake fluids... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

Here you go...

41*F and starting to melt off the snow in the yard. I'd plowed one last time for the evening to cut back icing up of chunky snow balls and uneven ground.

No reason for that high of pressure though. You only aiming to get the overflow open fully at 14 PSI under WOT. Going above 20 PSI is just risking the front VP44 seal... I had one guy that was going around with a mechanical fuel pump from a 12V and running 35-40 PSI on a VP44 trying to prove a point. Yes you could go that high but your not going to gain anything. Might be unlucky and blow the front seal out of the VP44 though.

Got another dusting or a skiff of snow last night.

FASS should be similar to the AirDog where the return line fitting unscrews and the check ball and spring come out.

I wouldn't worry about the APPS sensor if the ECM is still blinking a Wait To Start light. The APPS sensor might still be good but ECM issues might be masking it. (Personal Opinion).

Any error codes on this one?

Never had that problem with my truck yet its been parked for nearly 2 months now and no issues of settling out. Typically 2 cycle oil mixes good with diesel fuel and doesn't separate.

Dusty mountain roads then before winter got here I parked the truck and its been sitting in the shop for 2 months just about. Sad aprt is this winter I might not have to worry about warming up the diesel because price of gasoline is so low. But the 3 cylinder "fast idle" (there are you happy? LOL) will only function with the truck sitting still if the truck moves at all even 1 MPH the whole thing is cancelled instantly. So the whole idea of rolling down the hill isn't going to happen.

Well gang its installed on my truck. As for installing you need to carefully pull your dash bezel from the dash and remove it. Then taking 3 screws out holding the cubby pocket in place and remove. Also remove the 4 screws holding the HVAC controls. This will give you room to routing the wires across the dash. Now mount the face to the cubby and using the supplied screws and nylon spacers. Continue to route the wires over to the bulk head. Then this part is bit tricky and requires patience carefully route the plug through the rubber boot of the bulkhead connector. The bulkhead connector inside can be released from it mount and might give you a few more inches of work room for a single hand. Now route the connector to the proper placements. Black ECT to the front of the engine and the Grey IAT connectors to the rear of the engine. Now unplug both ECT and IAT and plug in the fooler cables. ECT IAT Then reassemble your Dash. The only thing I didn't hook up yet was the LED power.

I've got plenty of fresh snow here about 5-6 depending on where you measure it at.

No. IAT sensor will not. Remember I'm running a fooled IAT.

Well tonight is my Christmas party for the Fire Dept. Snow blowing and drifting all over the highway between home and Riggins, ID. Buddy Kelly informed me that north of Grangeville, ID has had at least 7 slide off vehicle accidents so far. I've got video of the trip to town and post it later when I get home. But at the moment I'm safe and sound in Riggins Idaho. Anyone out and about in Idaho take it slow and easy and be safe. http://511.idaho.gov/ White Bird grade Smokey Boulder

Flashing wait to start isn't a good thing. I would look into the communication error first. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/232-p1694-no-bus-message-received-from-companion-module

Yeah... I know even Wild and Free will say the very same thing. Yes there is I wish I had time enough to install mine and show it off but I'm losing time today working on the DSL and getting it fixed today.