Mopar1973Man

Seems the bad word filter caught you. LOL. I'm sure you put J A P S for a word right?

Huge find... Another thing you don't want to do is attempt to jump start the truck. If the batteries are weak or dead just replace them. So many nice gems turn into complete turds because turning to wake it from its slumber and pissing it off. I would do like Disel4life said bring a flatbed in and have it towed off and everything check and inspected properly. Oh 92700km is 57601.11 miles. It's not even broke in yet.

Problem is with nozzles alone you can't pick and choose to get the proper flow match. Then looking at spray patterns you stuck too. Then you also have to take the injectors into a shop and have them pop tested. I would opt for a full injector that the set has been flow match and pop tested within tight specs. I tend to stay away from Edge Juice products too many bells and whistles to screw up a good tune. The alarms and limits will change the fuel maps if setup wrong. I typically suggest to people to turn them all OFF don't use them. What they miss is they set the limit to low and the defuel start even earlier. So like most I see set the EGT at 1,100 and it start to defuel at 900 and working its way to max defuel at 1,100 so the truck seems really doggy and tune is off. Edge Comp is exactly this just box. No bells and no whistles.

Yes... It's a completed product now. Testing is all over for version 2 high idle kits.

Not holding out just been busy... Between working with Ed and fire fighter classes...

Also kind of common with larger tires to put stress on the transfer case making it harder to shift in and out. I find rocking the truck forward and backward helps a bunch.

I never really liked the newer Ford products. As for Chevy I was willing to try a Chevy Diesel at the time in 2002. Since my Dad worked for GM in Van Nuys, CA I figured I could get a pretty good discount on a truck. Well I was mistaken... The best a GM dealer was willing to do at the time was drop about $2,000 off the price of a Duramax at about $53,000 total. I went back down the street to the Dodge dealer and bought the 2002 Dodge 2500 for $32,000... Just the shear price was enough to make me drop a GM. I'm still ahead of the game with my 12 year old Cummins...

I would like to thank CTcummins24V for the quick write up and I've moved into the article database for others. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/445-engine-oil-pressure-sensor

I had a close call myself with the 1996 Dodge. I was moving truck around the yard hop in the 96 pull it out of the garage quickly slammed it in PARK and did quite get she started creeping off. Ran back and caught it. Usually when your in a hurry you do stupid things. Like with my truck hitched up and hauling firewood I'll take the time to chock all the wheels before leaving the truck parked on a slope.

Ummm... *1972 Dodge Power Wagon *1973 Dodge Charger SE *1976 Dodge Power Wagon *1977 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome *1978 Dodge Magnum XE 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Mopar, Dodge and Chrysler products are in my blood... * notes vehicle sold no longer owned.

Even on my ATV I did 1 size larger than the ATV. Typically they sell 48" blade for it I took the 56" blade to keep the snow from rolling back into the front tire on full tilt. My neighbors blade is 48" and his ATV will lose traction on that front wheel from the snow coming around that side of the blade. Like Mine bigging just that bit wider on full tilt it gives just that extra few more inches and keeps the snow away from the front tires. I know this is ATV vs. Truck but gives you a idea...

Kind of like this thread... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/950162-new-cummins-need-info-please.html Shainer said... I have a problem with that lazy answer as you'll see I still did what I could to help. I know for a fact that all forum software are weak in the search engine (internally). Even here. I could install Sphinx search engine but it would require a different server for us. But still in all I will not tell a person to search first. Even with all my work on the phone there is never two cases exactly the same. I've had times on the phone and got confident I had the answer sounds like a classic case of "X" only to find out it don't work. Now I'm scratching my head. Thinking up the answer to the unheard of case "Y"...

Just a quick note remember oil pressure sensors are not absolutely correct.

Time to hook up the clutch safety now right???

Look like you going to rebuild you front axle. (Seal and bearing kit)

Mine took 2 shims being they are thinner than most washers. All based on how thick they are. More or less a test and try method.

Lets say I've crossed 1,400 a few times on fire calls and passing vehicles on the highway. But its only for max of about 10 seconds. 1,200 is safe to run. It just once past that no one knows how long any thing will last. One pyrometer gauge might be + few degrees and the other might be - a few degrees so who is to say what is safe? Like I said pistons are aluminum and they are cooled by engine oil so how long... Don't know. But as long as your below aluminum melt point you should be safe. I typically float 550-600*F at 55-60 MPH at about 2-3 PSI of boost. Typically can reach the 20's for MPG's...

I bet that if you could wire that drill in to the 12V and mount it somewhere it would work better than AirDog. With all the people I talk to on the phone AirDog quality is at a all time low really.

Aluminium melts at 1,220*F (660*C). There is cooled oil sprayed at the pistons from underneath. So extended 1,200*F is safe all day long. But you'll notice the coolant temps will be elevated still normal but higher than typical. 1,000-1,100*F you will see less increase in coolant temperatures typically float about 193-197*F. Optimal for 20+ MPGs you want to get below 600*F and 5 PSI of boost.

Sad to say I've got a phone call of a gentleman back east that just lost his 4th AirDog in one month time frame. So each one lasted about 1 week a piece. The last one barely made 100-120 miles I was told. Since he's strapped for cash so he's going back around for another warranty pump number 5. Ugh. Such a wonderful product but total junk now. Reminds me of the vBulletin threads I read... http://www.theadminzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106727 http://www.theadminzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106441 Now you know why I swapped forum software. But Like as you read the older AirDog's like mine are like the older vBulletin 3 software rock solid and still working. Strange but true...

Ouch... Time to tear it down and get it sent off for rebuilding.

Starter... That's easy. Now do a VP44 in a rain storm on the side of the mountain with no shelter, no power for a shop light, just a Mag Light stuffed in my mouth and wrench in hand while working under a tarp. Still got it done in 2 hours (bit slow).

No joke. Quality part do cost more but do keep in reason. My full Southbend Con OFE with 13" flywheel ran $750 bucks.

Thing is the most torque is typically produced around 1,900 to 2,100 RPM's This is where the efficiency is the highest for towing. For empty running your best be down lower between 1,500 - 1,700 RPM's... With that being said there is little benefit to going above this range. You can run the engine against the governor all day long and not hurt it. (In theory - I personally don't suggest it!) But now the efficiency is going to really low.

Just to toss one on the thread I been talking to a gentleman back east that has lost four AirDog 100 pumps in about one month time. This last one barely travelled 100 miles and losing pressure. Seem AirDog isn't very secure or stable any longer.