Mopar1973Man

53 Block?

Yea that's the one... No skid marks and traveled a long way up the embankment. What amazed me is how far it threw the front axle. Not certain what happen to the vehicle but he rubbed the guard rail a long way. Then travelled up the bank where it rolled over dumping its logs. I snagged the picture from FB from another retired deputy that posted it.

I got called out to another vehicle accident. I'm not exactly sure of the cause of this one but speed actually played a role. (Yes... That is me...)

Reading too much into it. Just grab a bottle of standard green or Prestone yellow or Supertech yellow and mix it 50/50 and pour it in. No additives required.

If you got a cooling system pressure tester those are handy tool. Just let the truck sit and go cold and then pump up the cooling system to 15-16 PSI and leave it alone a for a bit. The leak will show itself because there is no heat to dry it up.

North Dakota might be booming but Idaho isn't. Unemployment around Idaho is high.

GPS and Thermometer works way better. The overhead trip computer isn't even close especially after you modify the fuel system at all. Then you end up staring at +30 MPG. I bought a Garmin GPS V, PanaPacific Temperature gauge, and a ScanGauge II and these 3 devices do a much better job than the overhead computer.

I use to be a big Grouse hunter back in the day but now after totalling up all the license, fuel, food, ammo, etc. I can buy a mess load of chicken from the store case lot style for much much less.

That's why I drag a travel trailer behind the truck.

With a good fuel sender its typically lit up by 1/8 a tank and I've typically got 10-11 gallons left. At Empty mark I typically around 4-5 gallons left.

That the beauty of this area with the low elevation of Riggins, ID at 1,800 feet you get high desert effect with the borderline of forest above you. So if you looking for warmer weather go towards Riggins, ID but if you looking for colder weather go towards New Meadows - McCall, ID and get way colder.

I'm trying to get my hands on a spare thermometer for this purpose. I don't think I'll see you level of temps ever either. IAT always follow the +40*F rule. I can tell the outside temp by just looking at the IAT which is always close to +40*F rule. The only time this doesn't apply is when the engine is cold then the IAT matches outside temp.

Mine already loves running the yard and the hillside behind the house. Go West! There is plenty of mountains to play on. Well I'm not going to stop you. A matter of fact I might help you find a place to call home while your out here playing in the mountains. Missoula is a odd area. Then going down the highway into Idaho is so very lonely for sure. I forget its like 65-77 miles of no services.

Buddy and I decided to start getting in shape for fire season and start doing some hiking. So for our first trip we went up to the end of Rapid River road and parked but instead of following the Rapid River trail we headed more North West towards Shingle Creek. Now just looking at those pictures we are at roughly 3,500 feet looking out across from the south panning to the east then to the north. West we had reached the snow line. Not much but not worth trying to hike on a steep hillside and slick snow.

I Always slightly over fill mine. No leakage at all.

With the high idle no. There is no boost at idle or fast idle (correct term).

With winterized #2 diesel fuel I see typically 900-1000*F consistently. About 600-700*F without the Exhaust brake which is still really good. In your case I would suggest against it being your EGT's do get out of control.

P0234 means he past the usable fuel table and went into the red zone fuel table when starts cutting fuel. Like saying for example... 18 PSI = 100%, 19 PSI = 100%, 20 PSI = 100%, 21 PSI = 50%, 22 PSI = 25% (Unknown to actual settings) So as he gaining boost the stock ECM table starts cutting fuel to protect itself. But now add a boost fooler (plugin between ECM and MAP sensor) which is nothing more than a regulator it will stop at about 18-19 PSI it might fuel past it a bit more but the ECM is blind and can't figure any more than 18-19 PSI and timing for such. Quick to 18-19 PSI after than it would fall on its face. Rare but possible. Which is the most common.

Still way above me for that venture. But.... Now with what I'm learning about the pump I think we can now work on way to improve the longevity and not even worry about failures. I still would have to say most of all the failures are listed over on my article page. Majority of the failures tend to revolve around the PSG unit on top of the VP44. Even to take the timing piston out requires quite a bit of disassembly to get it out. If its like the pump I have here you most likely are not going to save the timing piston nor be able to repair it properly. At that point I can say the P0216 code is cause from a timing piston failure and its going to be wrapped up in either fuel pressure or HFRR in the case of this VP44 it was more so the HFRR was too high and the piston galled up till it seized. Even with a steel sleeve in the piston bore it galled the piston and the bore. Now as for the P0251, P0252, P0253, P0254, P0215, and P1689 you can bet money the AC noise from a bad alternator most likely killed the PSG possibly a heat issue on the PSG but I've only seen one report of P0168 VP44 overheat. Being the only thing the PSG has is a tone wheel inside the pump, hydraulic valve to control timing piston and a solenoid to control fuelling. That's it the PSG is a very simple controller and limited to what it can do by the software flash to it at calibration time on the bench.

Different story using a Smarty vs. a MAP Sensor boost fooler. With Smarty they are rewriting the fuelling table to continue fuelling to its limits without a over boost code but make use of the last enter holding max fuelling. Now with a MAP sensor boost fooler the fuel table is unchanged and has the stock tapper off effect designed into it. In either case there is much more than 22-25 PSI (unknown exact number) as a limit on the ECM fueling table. Beyond that there is no more table. There isn't the room hardware wise to extend the table either.

Here is the flat plate... http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/high-idle-switch-98-02-custom.htm

May... Or May not. I think all of them have there place and particular desires by others. Remember the flat plate is universal and just needs a 3/8" so overhead, knee bolster, etc. Drill your hole and route the cables.

I'm also thinking more electronic failures of the PSG is cause more so from failed alternator and not heat cycle or heat from the VP44. Being a majority of people now have a good fuel system and can hold 14-20 PSI I'm going to bet its mostly AC noise blowing out small part on the PSG circuit board. I'll admit yes hot summer day and park and heat soak that pump. But if you have at least a FASS DDRP or similar you should be able to flood that first chamber with cold fuel in a few seconds. My VP44 will be going on 10 years old this spring with almost 200k miles on it. Seeing summer heat of Riggins, ID every year at 110-115*F every summer. Kind like the previous post about stock carter and stock VP44 still going well into the 200k mile range. Does make you wonder. But no one has a ll the details on that either. Does the owner have a fuel pressure gauge? Using 2 Cycle oil or fuel additives? Fuel filters how good and what brand? Is the truck just a daily grocery getter or what? Kind of like me bouncing back and stating I've got fully OEM stock front end parts on my 1996 Dodge with no issues of death wobble. Only changed ball joint and a track bar on my 02 and still OE parts on it. Gotta look at the type of use, type of modification that might effect longevity, driver/owner knowledge, etc.

Another argument is the vane pump inside will boost the pressure as well. Bad part is no one knows how much volume that pump can put out at 400-1600 RPM which exactly half of the crank speed which is 800-3200 RPM's. Then the fact looking at the return port hole is much smaller versus the supply hole. So once again a good 14-20 PSI is fine 10-13 PSI is marginal (discounting the vane pump). Absolutely no reason for pressures above 20 PSI. Now another neat thing is looking at the 3 pump plungers they are not spring loaded. They are pushed out with fuel pressure from the vane and lift pumps. I kind of want to figure out a way to open up the distributor part to show that part which does the actual pumping. But I can see the P0216 code for sure. I'm going to have to say that 90% of that failure would be a lubricity issues more so that fuel pressure. Being the piston wear is lubricity issue more so being the entire piston submerged in diesel fuel.

Here you go... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/88-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-overflow-valve