Mopar1973Man

All I can say is be careful. Remember the turbo is still capable of 250-300*F discharge temps even at -20*F. At least with a covered grill the fan can still sense the heat and lock if need be. With the hole in the center that guarantees the fan remains unlocked because the fan hub always senses cold air and never locks. With a grill cover the ambient temp will rise too the point of trip the fan to partial lock to cool. I can see this with IAT temps and coolant temps. My issues is mostly because of all the canyon grade and climbing I've got to do so with the turbo working harder than flat land then the boost actually is the heat generator not the coolant.

Well When you back the truck to the wood pile and the park the wood splitter beside the truck so you split and throw in the truck bed. Occasionally you'll lose your grip mid-throw and BAM! Not quite in the truck bed and hit the bed side. Already done on both trucks. Personal note. I've dated many woman the biggest problem I've got is none of them can work with me. They all can cook good meals and take care of the house but need a woman that can work with me through thick and thin not run to the house and hide because its too muddy, cold, my nails broken, there is cow crap, etc. Even MoparMom is willing to go out in the cold and work in the woods hauling firewood. Now you understand why I'm the MPG guru of Dodge Cummins trucks. I have to being that everywhere I travel I have to travel at least 100 miles or more. Just to get a feel for it how about going to my northern fire meeting in Slate Creek is 36 miles one way. McCall, ID is 35 miles. Ontario, OR is 125 miles, etc. It adds up fast so if I can gain 1-2 MPG by doing a mod I'm all for it. Being that all local stores charge a arm and a leg for everything. Then if I do most of my shopping in Ontario, OR there is no sale taxes so what I saved in taxes just paid for the fuel. Then my saving in food and supplies are now truly ahead for the trip down.

Thanks Russ much appreciated. Darn... Problem is yours is a aluminum skinned and mine is fiberglassed. Neat gutters but I wonder if it will enter now at the joints that have been open up? I'm not sure what this white or cream color stuff is but its turned solid and now cracking. Worthless in my book if a sealant can't flex or stay flexible for a house body that is flexing all the time as it travels down the road. Hence why rubber roofs idea came to be.

I agree with you if the road conditions are good there is no reason why you can keep up with travel or being slightly slower maybe 5 MPH isn't going to hurt. But people driving excessive in poor road conditions is insane. As you seen from above its one of Idaho big problems. Another accident that occurred local deputy wife just had a head on collision with another local on a single lane dirt road. Excessive speed for road conditions.The neighbors kid just wrecked his car 2 days ago read ended another vehicle. Excessive speed / tailgating? As for tracking back to the original post and not forgetting the OP here...Rancherman how is the family doing are they home yet?

True... But when the road become icy and slick its best to slow down... That the problem every stuck on must go faster than thinking safer.Idaho state has no minimum law. Here is the local speed limits around me.Residential Speed limit - 15 MPHRural City Speed limit - 25 MPH Rural Roads - 25-35 MPH (Dust and visibility) Forestry Roads 15-25 MPH (Dust and visibility) Larger Cities - 25-35 MPH (Boise / Lewiston)US 95 Highway 45-65 MPHInterstates - 75 MPH (65 MPH Trucks state wide)Right from Idaho ITD...

Both are very true and right...

I've just reused them myself but re-grease them on assembly. You understand it better once you have it apart.

Thanks... I learned this when I swapping my old fiberglass topper from my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon to the 2002 and it didn't fit right. The back of the canopy hung outwards off the bed rails by another 1-2 inches. Then the clamps inside barely even grabbed the topper. Kind of see it in this picture look at the tail. PS: Wow! What a time long ago when my truck was nearly stock.

I can see where Wild and Free is with heavy machinery and what the extreme cold does. But a bit different when most people are plugging in there trucks or keeping them inside a unheated shop which is better than parked out in the cold. Like my rigs are both in garages so they don't start with minus temp but with above +32*F usually. But yes there is times I run for a fire call leave my truck standing out at a shed for hours getting cold or go up to McCall shopping for a few hours and allow it go cold. Either case I still just start up and high idle for a short period to build some heat and then roll on.

It always amazes me when I talk to people on the phone I hear the same thing over and over. "If I don't do the speed limit they will run me over". In all the time I've been working with Salmon River Rural Fire Dept. I've never been to a vehicle accident where some was driving too slow. But been to plenty of vehicle accidents where they were driving either excessive to the speed limit or excessive for the conditions of the road. Like this morning its 14*F above I'm sure there is black ice out there but as I sit here and look at the window I watching vehicle whizz by at good clip of speed. Another thing I typically end up doing since I'm a senior officer of the fire dept is typically doing the paper work on the accident scene. 99.9% are excessive speed accidents. Like I've shown a few times before.... For me to drive to New Meadows, ID is 20 miles.55 MPH = 0.36 Hours = 21.8 Minutes65 MPH = 0.30 Hours = 18.4 Minutes21.8 - 18.4 = 3.4 Minutes difference...I'd rather be a extra 5-10 minutes get to home than in a accident trying to hurry.

There is 2 screw on top. You have to pull the dash bezel first to see the 2 screws.

Since I used a proper adapter for the stereo it left me a pigtail for the lighting for my gauges so I tapped that wire and took it back across the dash for the lighting. Problem solved.

Like on the little 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 46RE I've serviced the trans every 30k miles or every 3rd year. (Mostly every 3rd year). Magnet is clean every time I drop the pan, the fluid is bright red, no debris in the pan either. No need for a flush because the truck was never abused. I do tow with it but I don't get crazy about it. Yeah I know the book says it will haul 8k pounds but even then I tend to lock out over drive and slow down while climbing grade to keep from over heating the trans. Yeah yeah I know I need to install a trans temp gauge on this beast.

Thankfully enough we don't keep the minus weather for very long and usually escape it after a few weeks. But Wild & Free is right if you are truely expecting long term you might consider it. Mine is short term and typically will warm up in a few weeks. Not to mention the day time high typically positive numbers single digits. Still need to watch API grade spec though. To many grab the gasoline oils.

High idle modes are totally automatic and will self start without the fooler in place. All the fooler does is allow you to self start either mode anytime you wish above set point.

I think he thinking of the CP3 pump which is mounted way different from the P7100 and VP44. (Guessin')

I typically grab my ball joint press and press them out one at a time. The double joint is a bit special but not bad to deal with. Same deal one at a time starting from the outside working inward. Make sure to mark the alignment of all the part for balancing purpose. I normal use a sharpie marker or a center punch and line up all the marks. Even spray paint would work.

Actually the only thing my heat shield does is keep it from flopping around. As for heat shield really don't need it being warmer air better for MPG's values in the winter time.

No problems here. Still running 15w-40 all year round with minus weather coming. People have to remember to break down the weight spec. 15W-4015W - This is the weight characteristics of the cold start oil.40 - This is the weight characteristics of a full warmed oil.So looking towards 10w-30 oil make sure that you can get it in a CI-4 or CJ-4 API grade. Make sure it's not a S(?) spec. C - Stands for Compression Engine (Diesel Engine)S - Stands for Spark Engine (Gasoline Engine) Believe or not no one up here in Idaho sell any other weight of oil other than 15w-40 CH-4. 10w-30 is sold as a SN grade. Shouldn't be used.

Since my roof is not leaking at the moment but I know the rubber needs to be treated I'm going to pick up the coating for the roof at a RV dealer in Boise, ID and deal with that first thing in the spring. I've only had 1 small leak in the slide roof at a corner joint where the old putty tape has lifted a bit. I carefully dung out the putty tape a bit and cleaned the area and silicone the joint never had another problem. Funny thing is all the RV sites hate silicone but love that putty tape. Then there is another sealant they love which I hate (can't remember the name) but the previous owner used it on my RV and man talk about a PITA to remove. Ughhh! You need a sharp razor blade in a gasket scrapper handle and very carefully take slices old sealant off. They use around all the clearance lights and it now dried up hard and cracking (possibly leaking?) no need to risk it shave it off and replace with either white or clear silicone. At least I can use a dull putty knife to take silicone up with out worrying about the fiberglass body with a sharp razor blade.(Rant over!)

Like I've learned from watching coolant temperatures and IAT temperatures on the 24V Engines the coolant temperature will effect the offset of the IAT temperature which is typically +40*F over outside temperature. So now if you increase the engine temperature the offset also increases. Now for every 10* drop from 140*F IAT temperature you lose roughly 1 MPG. As the IAT continues to fall in minus weather like as low as +20*F IAT Temperature that I've seen you be down to about 14 MPG tops. Cold air does hurt MPG's. Heck this morning its only 14*F in New Meadows, ID... (Brrr....)

Yeah I know the paint looks like crap and there is a few dents on the driver side from me throwing wood at the truck. So slowly but surely I'm working the bugs out of the little 96 Dodge Ram 1500 and trying to fix the minor issues. I know I could get a gallon of paint and reducer and shot this poor thing in no time flat but I'll wait till spring to do that. But right now I worry about function. Right now its 14*F in New Meadows, ID and getting colder. Price of diesel is 4.069 and unleaded is 3.329 of course I'll drive the gasser if the prices are that low. Now with the Redneck Tonneau Cover I build it myself, Built it strong enough to meet my requirements, etc. Something you can't get from a kit sold online or in a catalog. I've got a friend down the road from me that is trying to weigh the idea of a store bought tonneau cover vs. a home built. His requirements are a buit tough to meet as well. Capable of holding 2-3 foot of snow, capable of folding up or rolling up so the dog can ride in the bed and capable of keeping his goods dry in the bed. Another thing I learned about Dodge Ram truck the beds are not straight and not even square. They are actually tapered.

:piwwp:I wanna see too...

Normally I replace the seal o-ring about every other year. I typically snug the band up tight but not torquing tight.

Anything above 14 VAC is a Digital Volt Meter issue. That is most likely designed only for 60 Hz household power and thats all. A high quality Fluke or SnapOn will read multi-frequencies that vary.