Mopar1973Man

I mounted mine rear of the transfer case to keep the filters guarded from debris and also block as much cold wind from blowing across the filter. I typically see -20*F to -30*F for cold temps here in Idaho. Then I kept my stock filter housing for the added heat. Even through the heater is after the AirDog the fuel returned to the fuel tank is heated from the block and fuel heater some more so the returned fuel will warm the tank up. No there is no problems with plumbing a 150 GPH pump through the stock filter I only see 1-2 PSI drop from idle to WOT.

I'm going to get him to rule out the injectors next before pulling the engine open. Bearing/rod doesn't create white smoke issues from the exhaust. That's what got me stumped is the smoke is combined with the knock.

I heard of this before. There is a few ECM from 98.5 to 99 that are not Smarty capable and tend to take on flash damage. Your delay to the WAIT TO START is because of the ECM is not booting up in a timely matter so the ECM software isn't functional till the WAIT TO START even gets lit up. The only way to fix it is to replace the ECM. If the WAIT TO START light was blown or damaged there would be a P0381 code.

Roughly 400-450 PSI across the board. Pepsi has been trying to pin down a smoke and knock problem.

I think the tool..

Another one to talk to is Dave Goerends... http://www.goerend.com/

I'm also running the Southbend Con OFE clutch and its very solid clutch works very well for towing and heavy applications.

That's kick story. It nice to see good folks are still out there... Tell your uncle that we all "Thank" him for his service as well!

Ughh...Riggins, ID - GAS - 3.329 - Diesel - 4.069New Meadows, ID GAS - 3.429 - Diesel 4.229McCall, ID - GAS - 3.409 - Diesel 4.209

When you look at the tight tolerances pf the CR injectors I would be picky about filters. Kind of like half the battle for a VP44 pump too is keeping the fuel clean as it enters the pump. For you guys with CR injectors I would opt for quality filters than common place filter that might lessen the life span...

Like AH64ID has pointed out that average life span of the CR injectors it might be a good idea to have them tested to be sure they are not lets say borderline functional. It would be a nice piece of mind knowing that the injectors are still serviceable.

PCM's aren't exactly cheap. But I would quiz the provider about warranties and what about returning if there is any issues.

Even 24V's are 300-310 bar for pop pressure. 400 bar is just excessive...

Be careful of the garden hose idea. I've had one report of a heater hose mod that kinked closed over time and blew the tappet cover gasket out and losing large amount of oil when it did blow out. Truck required to be towed for repairs..

Cummins shouldn't be able to sell ECM's for Dodge. ECM's should be purchased from Dodge Dealer and they are sold blank. So they require to be flash at the dealer as well. No Cummins can't flash it either.As APPS sensor it should be reset as well so you programmed with the new limits idle and WOT.

A rule of thumb I use (just like the raw egg) is to keep the boost below 5 PSI and EGT's under 600*F and I can cross 20 MPG without thinking...

I would look up the code and do the diagnostics just to double check electrical connections or anything that might of triggered them.

Before this get all mixed up. Timbo APPS does NOT have a voltage setting. It only got a slack setting. With the throttle arm free from the idle screw check the voltage this will be what you want. Then screw the idle stop screw in till the voltage rises now STOP! Then back off till you reach you starting voltage. Then take a extra 1/2 turn off then your done. Now do a APPS reset by pulling the battery cables loose for a 15-30 minutes.

I'll give this a bump for you. I sorry I can't help you out much I've got a manual Cummins and Auto in my gasser. The throttle link are way different on both. I do know the adjust is there near the APPS sensor but how to do it I'm not sure.

I know that AH64ID could most like spit the answer right out. But what are you testing first off? What filter?

Replace both batteries as a set.

So what was the AC volts out of the alternator? (Less than 0.1 AC volts is normal). Battery temp sensor is doing its job as the battery warms up the charge volts goes down. As a battery gets colder the volts go up. But typically the normal range is 13.5 to 14.5 volts. CCD Network is a 2.49 and 2.51 volt bus system works just like your Ethernet network for your computer. What causes a Bus failure. [*] Bus Shorted to Battery [*] Bus Shorted to 5 Volts [*] Bus Shorted to Ground [*] Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) [*] Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open [*] Bus (+) Open [*] Bus (–) Open [*] No Bus Bias [*] Bus Bias Level Too High [*] Bus Bias Level Too Low [*] No Bus Termination [*] Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly

Basically want to measure the output of the alternator in DC and AC volts. Need a good DVM like A Fluke or SnapOn. DC scale should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts typically. The AC volts scale should be less than 0.1 volts. Typically a good alternator will measure about 0.01 to 0.02 volts AC. Even better yet a O-scope... Please watch this video.

Replace both batteries. Never just one. As for the Alternator when the test was done what was the AC Noise output? Sorry I don't have anything for the turbo clean up but I'm sure others can chime in to get you cleaned up.

Here is the CCD Network Bus wiring.. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus