Mopar1973Man

Even up here in Idaho I've been close to the minus numbers for the week and because of my location of the filters I'm much more immune to the gelling problem. Sad thing is short bed brackets are no longer sold.

https-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vj9n5Ee88U

Another crazy thought do you have a small pin hole that is spraying coolant from a heater hose towards that fender and causing that?

Well technically this is not my primary truck for driving typical it just that fuel prices are wacky again so I'm using the gas powered truck more so why gasoline is cheap. But Since I rarely ever use the 4WD and notice it was violent about releasing I'm not expecting to to major overhaul of the engagement system since it still engages just fine. It just the release is violent and doesn't want to release in a timely fashion so it keeps the axle locked excessive period of time and with a loud THUNK! you hear the axle release and all is good. I guess I'll have to get off my rear end tomorrow and get the shop heated up and get it looked at so I can finish this thread out. It seem the vacuum lines are hooked up but I'll check to see if the vacuum is actually there or not.

With the key ON but engine not running check your tapped wire for +12V.

Right near +10*F as of tonight and still fuel is flowing in the truck by morning it will be -5*F roughly here. In all the years and nasty winter with temps down to -20*F to -25*F never had a gelling issues yet but I'm extremely picky about where I buy fuel and quiz the fuel station owners about PPD (Pour Point Depressants) and there usage in there fuels.How else do you think I got this picture?

I'm suppose to get mine here in the near future Ed Grafton is suppose to send it out ASAP so I can post up pictures and articles. The gauge pod unit is suppose to slide in like a normal gauge pod. I wish I could help out more but I'm still waiting for my units so I can complete the write up, articles, instructions and diagnostics. I wish I could help more.

Well Gang. I've been seen these goofy threads about people trying to figure out if a heater core is functional or plugged up. So since I took my truck to town for a job I figure I do the bench testing for the heater core to let you know what a good functional heater core will do. So measuring the vent temperature from the center vents with Bi-Level setting I measured...Fan Lo - 160*F roughlyFan Hi - 150*F roughlyOutside temperature - +10*FEngine Coolant Temperature - 193-195*FAs for the heater hoses they should not both be equally hot. I checked mine after driving about 6 miles from town stopped at a rest area and left the blower on Hi and felt both hoses. The hose from the head is very hot and you can only hold it for a short period before the heat burns your hand. As for the other hose that routes under the turbo in the steel tube that hose is warm but you can hold on to it for a very long time without even letting go. I see several threads where people say that if both hoses are hot the heater core is functional. This is wrong there should be a exchange of heat/cold with the heater core so one hose should always be cooler which is the return line from the heater core. If both hoses are equally hot then the heater core is not exchanging heat/cold and not flowing optimally. So I figure I'd throw this tidbit out there for everyone and hopefully help others diagnose heater core performance issue.

Out here the roads are spotted black ice might have a 100 yards or 1 mile stretch of ice. Instead of in and out of 4WD I gotten used to just backing down the speed travel the slick areas cautiously and then when in the clear pick up the speed to what I'm comfortable with. Thanks to ISX. Black vacuum line is to engage and the red to disengage. Posi-lock is way over the top. Once again this is a low budget truck that has zero value where something like my Cummins still holding excellent value I can and would do something like that if I had a CAD axle. But this 96 Dodge the blue book... Well look for yourself it's not worth the effort.

Might be true that with higher HP number its possible the blow gets worse but still where do you draw the line in the sand saying this is too much and band-aiding the problem might or might not be the answer. I tend to say the racing crowd is a bit different being the truck goes from idle to WOT and stays there the entire time.

New Meadows, ID weather tower report -11*F and McCall, ID airport tower reports -9*F I'm showing +10*F as a starting temp of the day... Still down right cold.

That's where I differ from most I don't use 4WD very much. Even out here in the snow and frozen roads I typically leave it in 2WD. As for the CAD unit on the 96 it always engages but hangs up on release. Because the simple fact is 4WD will give you traction to climb a slick grade but 4WD will not keep you from sliding off a highway. So my 4WD is a "Ace up my sleeve" so when I need it I've got it but normally don't need it. So many vehicle around me that are strictly 2WD pickup, cars, utility trucks and fire trucks etc. They don't require 4WD for winter travel just a Smart Driver.Like suggested above the vacuum might be the cause of the hang up and not pulling the collar back to release?

Another version..."Honey I put a huge piece of wood in the stove and the door wouldn't shut right so I forced it and blew the glass out."(Oh shizzle moment in life to call 911)

Very cool thank you ISX for the addition to the 911 section I'm sure others will enjoy this.

Yeah right... I doubt that seriously. I will admit yes YabbaDoo is nice looking gal but I'm not exactly looking for relationship. So no disrespect to the females of the site but sorry I'm not exactly looking or even thinking that. But I'm proud to see females jumping on board and getting there hands dirty and maintaining their trucks. But as for the stove... It's not exactly like above but it would work for cooking the need be. I got to admit it does a excellent job of heating the main house. I've got one similar in the guest house and it got a flat top to cook on but since the stove is stuff in the fireplace its rather poor for cooking on but once again in a pinch you could if you had to. Both stoves are built here locally... Called... "Stove That Jack Built".

P0121 code http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/150-p0121-apps-sensor-volts-do-not-agree-idle-validation-signal P0382 code http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/183-p0382-intake-air-heater-relay-2-control-circuit As for the P0121 code you might just have to replace the APPS sensor with a Timbo's APPS and be done. But I would do the diagnostics first to verify its not a bad wire or other issues. P0382 is a grid heater relay that is either disconnected on the fender or the relay is bad internally.

Not always. Some cases where a single piston is damaged will not show any signs at all till high boost may two pistons? But yes you correct if you had all 6 with wore out rings you'd see more of it.But one or two cylinders might not be enough to create a blow at idle where at full boost now its excessive. A vacuum pump can only throw so much air into the system it can only flow so much. If you just cap it off completely and test run and still getting blowby your still looking at a compression test to see where you sit. Compression test and a leak down test let you test cylinder by cylinder the heath of all them without tearing down the engine. Yes it will require you pull all 6 injectors out but that's all. But then you can see the pressures of each cylinder and see whats up. If there is a low cylinder now you can do a leak down and see where the compression gases are going. So if you hooked up compressed air to a low cylinder to can look for the hissing air at the oil fill cap (bad rings / possibly a bad head gasket), radiator cap (blown head gasket), fuel tank (cracked head into the return rail), intake (bad intake valve) or exhaust (exhaust valve). So now you diagnosed everything and you would KNOW exactly what going on cylinder by cylinder. Now you can make a educated plan of what to do next. Rather than stumbling around in the dark guessing...

Well if I can get time between all the fire dept meetings and fire dept activities right now. I would look. But now I'm house sitting and running back and forth keeping there fire burning at a fires house so the place doesn't freeze up. Tomorrow I got to hold a class on how to "Install VP44 injection pumps" for a local shop because no but myself will do them. So maybe by next week or today if I'm not swamped. @AH64ID This is only a cheap 1500 Ram its not worth the price of delete kit nor a bunch of conversion. I don't think I can get much more than $2k for the truck way it stands. Now if I got the interior cleaned up and a paint job. Maybe...

Got up this morning and it was 65*F COLDER outside than in my house......... Not as bad... Still cold.

Thank you... I told you that I lived in thee middle of Nowhere Idaho... Looking back towards home which is down behind the second ridge in the distance.

Kind of like...

Ok... I'm more of the type to verify that nothing got damaged because remember you are highly modified and running higher boost. I look at this way testing is cheap.

Like I know being I just checked mine last night from the Fire Meeting. In the 2002 Dodge Cummins I got 193*F worth of coolant on a 12*F night and the temperature coming out the dash was 135-140*F depending on fan speed. Now if both heater hoses are hot then the heater core is plugged up and not exchanging heat. Just like a plugged up radiator both hoses will be hot because of a lack of heat exchange. Just because fluid flows through it doesn't mean its good. Just like a plugged radiator will still flow coolant too but most of the tube don't so the heat exchanging effect is poor hence why a truck will over heat. Same with my truck not both hoses are hot. One is hot the other is cooler because of good heat exchanging from the heater core. Both hoses hot = Plugged heat core.One hose hot and the other cooler = Good heater core exchanging heat with cold air.

Fixed. Heck even my little "Stove That Jack Built" is well in the 500 pound range. Even 2 men have trouble packing mine around. I could only imagine the shear weight of that stove and all the heavy steel in the doors. OMG! No longer in the pounds listing its in the Tons category.