Mopar1973Man

As soon as I open that TDR PDF I was kind of reading it but once they started talking about all the mods to over come death wobble and steering issues including Luke's Links and Steering braces I was instantly turned off by the article because I know its not correct. Being I've never needed or use any of these bolt on fixes and got 224k miles on my truck and still running straight as a arrow I know the problems stem from other places. Like this is spot on. Some modifies the front axle geometry and expects everything to be correct. Or like increasing tire sizes you now change the leverage angles and length against ball joint and steering parts. Both truck here the 96 and 02 are still in stock form and no added steering fixes added. Still straight as a arrow and tight in the steering.

Just Capitalize... Carry on...

I agree with Dripley double check your tone wheels and double check your wiring to be sure everything is hooked up tight. More than likely the 2 front sensors are mismatched. Rather common problem.

Interesting to see a conversion of that type. But not exactly something I would consider using for a power plant though.

I'm not sure. I've heard mixed reports of snubbers some work and some don't. If you do opt fo the snubber I would still highly suggest you add a needle before the whole system so to turn it off in case of a problem.

Remember 2 cycle oil is lower in cetane so the ignition knock is reduced to uncover the other knock that you now hear.

PCM controls lock up, 4th gear, sensor for trans temp, etc. Manual Trans doesn't have any tie with the PCM just a switch for reverse lights.

Hey share the snow. I've only seen maybe a 4-6" since winter and need another 24-36" yet...

Same here. 3.55 gearing and right at about 16,000# GCW.

Suggestion joecool911 and diesel4life to set a time to either call on the phone or use the chat room here.

I don't have the flaming water here. But I will admit that CLR is a awesome product for cleaning showers and tubs. I spray it on full strength and let it stand a bit and wipe it out with a wet rag.

Like usual some over at TDR has all the fancy test equipment. But they do put out some seriously good information.

Like my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has single front calipers and drum rear brakes. Stops fine. Then the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 has dual piston calipers front and rear and stops fine as well. But really I don't use the brakes much on the 2002 Dodge because I've got a exhaust brake on it.

Matter of fact. MoparMom sent me to town for a jug of milk I opted to pull the beast out of the shop and drive the diesel once again. Oh Man is that a rush to hop in and have 5x3 for power vs. the little 96 Dodge. As doe the MPG battle for the OP. Might double check other factors like dragging brakes or low tire pressures too. That will pull MPG's down too.

5x5 was for a long time with the RV275's injectors and now with the +50 Vulcan Injectors I had to tapper down to 5x3 for smoke control.

Congrads on the 200k milestone. My 02 is still parked and not moving. But now the 96 is creeping its way towards 160k...

Rockauto.Com does. I bought the calliper seals, weather boots and slide pin boots for cheap.

Something to think about. Cmg = Current MPG for the day. I tune more for MPG numbers than HP/TQ...

I'm also a dual piston calliper.

Here is the rotational mass information about over sized tires. The Effects of Rotational Inertia on Automotive Acceleration This is one reason I went from 265's down to 235's. Looks don't mean anything but MPG's means more. Weight difference from a 265's to 235's is roughly 23 pounds per tire.

It goes on the directional door for vents after the blend door.

NAPA - WH6820 approximately $8 to $10 bucks for the needle valve. The tubing is Air Brake line rated for 600-800 PSI burst strength I doubt it will burst and leak in the cab. Question why is it that every panics about a fuel pressure gauge be isolated but doesn't think anything about running engine oil pressure into the cab with over 80 PSI in the tube?

Kind like myself. I usually look forward to the winter time because the heavy duty work is over and I can stay home more. Then this winter there isn't any snow really to speak off here. So my daily activity of shoveling snow and plowing driveways is no happening so I'm getting lazy and sore. So to make up for this I've been out splitting firewood to stay active. I gotta admit it sure does help in keeping you going feeling better and not as sore feeling.

That's the best idea right there is for two members to get together and compare truck and maybe help each other out on this issue.

Rent the Smarty. Plug in set a tune of any level. Take a ride out and play a bit. Maybe even try another level. Then return to stock settings. Then verify the high idle is actually enabled. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/64-mopar1973man-com-high-idle-kit/438-high-idle-detecting-if-the-ecm-has-been-enabled-for-high-idle-2 Then you should be done...