Mopar1973Man

Get ahold of Ed Grafton (Yankneck696) and he'll take a look into repairing your Quadzilla for ya.

ABS codes should be read with a DRBIII tool. Now since you rear sensor seems to be working and no complaints of the speedometer being dead. Then I'd would be looking at the front axle sensors. In this case you are stuck replacing both sensors as a pair. (Left & Right) you can't replace 1 sensor because the other old sensor will not match with the other front new sensor.

Check your shocks and front end components like the track bar and such. It seems more common with vehicle with larger than stock tires.

That's also why you never wash a filter too because you just placed the dirt on the wrong side. Your right I've never seen a filter minder fail either and a wonderful tool to boot.

There has been tales of the stock air box being restrictive. That where the whole idea of swiss cheese the box or the stinky slinky came from. Was to improve the air flow to the stock box. As for the filter pulling down the minder it possible to have plugged the filter up already and there is no way to blow out the debris or dust. This is a problem because the more and more you keep trying to get flow through the filter the worse and worse the filter will get at filtering out the fine dust and then you doing damage to the truck. Hence why I stick to paper elements like stock panels or BHAF because if there is any issues just chuck it in the trash and install a fresh filter and not worry.So in your case I would say time to toss that AMSOil filter out and now install a regular paper filter and save your money.

My Cummins low pressure switch is set for 3 PSI. Way too low for a low pressure light it should be set for about 10-12 PSI but never seen one. Now as for fuel pressure gauge you best to keep your pressure between 14-20 PSI fo optimal longevity of the VP44 pump.

Hang in there the first actual released version is suppose to be out by end of October last I've heard from Ed. Bur I also heard there has been issues with wire purchases. Cubby hole artwork

I normally keep a small can of grease in the RV. Every time I hitch up I put a dab of grease right on top of the ball so as the trailer sits down it squeezes the grease around in the hitch and latch. Never had a latch problem.

Like myself with a Edge Comp and +50HP injectors I can run the Edge Comp wide open and still control my EGT's either through speed or speed and gears. I can haul my RV around Idaho mountains without much trouble keeping the Pyrometer below 1,200*F.

That would do it...

Like on my WD hitch all I do to unhitch.1. Chock wheels2. Release WD bars3. Unhook power, lights, safety chains, and breakaway cable.4. Setup jack blocks under jack.5. Release coupler6. Jack trailer till free of the hitch. Hitching up is a bit different and there is a extra step of jacking the trailer up while hitch to make it easy to latch the WD bars.Unless I'm missing something?

Might help to post the full quote... This is what Wild & Free was talking about. He's gotta use the larger tires for stability where I can get away with smaller lighter tires. Kind of hard to live in that world. I live in a daily driver world where you got to accelerate to speed and stop at stop signs, yield to traffic, etc. Then living in the mountains you accelerate up a slop fighting rolling resistance and enjoy the free energy on the backside. I think the only way you could get that prefect 0 acceleration is in the vacuum of space. But daily drivers have weather changes, pavement/road condition changes, etc. Like with all the running back and forth for MoparMom to McCall hospital I never seen 2 exactly the same MPG numbers yet all vary about +/- 2 MPG. Even through I used cruise control for 90% of it. So there is always outside factor you can't change. But changing your vehicle you can change.

Well MoparMom went back up to McCall and had the balloon removed from her beak and doctor took a look and it looks good. So MoparMom has a sore beak for a while and have to be nice to it for a while longer being the lining in her nose is rather thin right now from the injury.

Here you go ISX more on the rotational inertia theories... http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html

I love throwing a good debate out there on the table. Thanks Bill for the good table battle...

That I'll have to disagree with. 265/75 R16 (10.43"/7.82" R16) 235/85 R16 (9.25"/7.86" R16) 10.43" - 9.25" = 1.18" Difference in Width (Basically 1" narrower) 7.86" - 7.82" = 0.04" Difference in Heigth (Basically a washout) 265's average weight is about 85 pounds with wheel 235's average weight is about 62 pounds with wheel More on Rotational Interia http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html Then cost difference I typically only pay $600 to $650 for 235's vs 265 at about $850 to $900. MPG Difference is about 2-3 MPG on average over a set of tires the is quite a bit of savings...

Be totally honest with you all my birthday is October 26, 1970. So I'm 43 years old today. Then just for Fun Mopar1973Man.Com had its Birthday back in October 4, 2007 and its 6 years old now. Actually the Mopar1973Man Web Site actually start well back in 2004... (Heck I've been helping people now for over 10 years! Wow!)

Reason why is beause the contact patch is smaller and the weight of the vehicle is concentrated and given more Pound Per Square than a wide tire or like dual trucks which can be rather wild. Now that I got 2 trucks in the 20's MPG bracket either gas or diesel powered tire do make a affect in MPG like it or not.

Actually I do like Lima Beans... As for MoparMom she healing up good and getting plenty of rest and naps in. She gaining her strength back a day at a time. Tomorrow the Doc gets to take a peak at her beak and see if it healed up good.

Hmmm... Don't I wish. Diesel up here is still $4.169 a gallon. But now that I crossed 22.6 MPG with the 96 Dodge 1500 and unleaded is 3.489 a gallon I'm happy. Now I got 2 trucks that can do 20+ MPG now one gas powered and one diesel powered.

Hmmm. That's the trick I guess the fact you can keep constant low temps in the minuses. Where driving down into the canyon you rise in temperature into the positive 30's and get up to New Meadows Valley it could be a minus temp so I've got to work with variable temps over terrain.

Hopefully your smart and lubed all the pivot up with a dab of grease.

Personally I don't like the cardboard in front of the coolers or in-between. I've actually seen so seriously high engine coolant temps with cardboard in either setup but winter front on the grill there is just enough cold air in the lower bumper to keep things controlled on mild days.