Mopar1973Man

Best I can say is contact DAP and find out...

Update 10/15/15! The Mopar1973man.com Cummins High idle switches are for sale again in the Forum store

Had one of those excellent stoves till it cracked around the damper control. Mine was fireplace insert slightly different. Hard to explain that fire call here.

No grease... No corrosion... Just a bit dirty.

#1 Diesel is normally found in Northern states and up into Canada... Good catch W&F...

You'll catch me for sure now. Mine's been parked for about 1 month now and only gotten fuel once in the month time. But I might catch you with the 1996 Doge Ram 1500 now...

Just for fun... I snapped a pic of all 3 wood burners... Guest House Shop Stove Main House Then the wood piles... Dry wood... Approx 4 cords left Semi-dry wood about 3 cords Wet unsplit wood about 3 cords.

Sound like a Internet myth. APPS sensor codes or dead pedal would be cause from APPS signal out of functional range. Heat should have nothing to do with it being the truck is in baking summer heat without a issue. So why would summer heat be fine and winter front heat be bad? Make you think?

No block off plate. But the chimney is sealed up top and insulated pipe all the way down. So heat can't fly up the chimney. I've got a magnetic Pipe gauge but its out on the shop stove being I use it more right now. Ugh... Glass doors... I've got one on the shop stove and hate it. Always soot covers and have to be careful of that log sticking out just a bit and breaking the glass. With both of the steel doored stove I can stuff wood in no biggy if some thing is in the way of the door just kick it shut. Do that with a glass door (BOOM!) the glass is gone and a now a new problem happens with how do you keep the fire in the box? Also this was brought up at the last fire call. (Chimney fire). With a steel box you can spray a short burst of water in a steel box and slam the door shut and the steam will go up the chimney and put out the chimney fire. Do that with a glass door stove you now blow the glass out and have a house fire to boot! So in this case we had to unload the stove into a steel pan because the air damper was broke and defunct on this call. So carrying live fire in a pan outside was very smoky and PITA!

Last time I seen the specs on Chevron Fuel in Idaho it was good for temps down to -20*F (winterized).

Here is what is in the guest house... Stainless steel stack all the way up. The chimney guy (Heartland Chimney) broke out the damper of the old fireplace and routed a fresh stainless steel stack in.

I grab a video next time I do it... Just got done doing a buddies Kia by myself bleeding the system out and flushing the lines. No running back and forth just crack, hook, pump, close, fill and done.

Well you should base you fuel on what you expect for climate. If your expecting really cold temps in the minus then I would be looking towards getting #1 Diesel. If your mild kind of like myself you can run Winterized #2 Diesel. If its summer time and cold weather is less likely I would opt for the BioDiesel. If you had for facts on the BioDiesel being sold and its cloud and pour point temps then I would consider its use for colder weather.

One of the few reasons I don't use grease on mine. No need to cover them up and it never gets on you.

As stated by ASTM testing labs in their report...

#1 Diesel is closer to the kerosene family also higher in cetane and lower in BTU's. Most have noticed the engine noise is much greater. #2 Diesel is typically what most get. BioDiesel all I can say is be careful. Biodiesel is not like diesel when it gels. The animal/veggie fats can separate from the petroleum product and settle to the bottom. Then dealing with that typically most anti-gel products don't work on animal/veggie fats but petroleum paraffin wax.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W%C3%A4rtsil%C3%A4-Sulzer_RTA96-C From what I've been told these engine run on some pretty thick liquid tar. Very very low cetane but lots of BTU pushing power. Redline at 22-102 RPM

You smacked the "like this" button and not the post button... So that's what you got for a converted fire place eh? Later on I shoot a picture of the guess house stove setup.

I know that feeling but in reverse I've got a fire truck you can hop into the seat and be going to a fire and have the air valve leak and sink you to the floor like Grandma...

Any oil is lower in cetane and higher in BTUs... So typically there is a slight gain to MPG's most report about 1-2 MPG gain.

I've got both kind of weather. Freezing minus temperatures and frying summer heat in the 110-115*F range. I would suggest aiding the heat if a notice in MPG is reduced.

I would also throw a test gauge on it as well just to verify the pressure. I would follow Russ though.

Actually put mine on the 96 gasser and pulled the cold air tube from the Air Filter.

Any 6.7L Cummins should offer a 200*F thermostat.

Clean the terminals. Then coat both terminals with engine oil and assemble and tighten. Also remember to reapply the oil at every oil change. No need to remove the terminal but to be sure there is engine oil on all surfaces.