Mopar1973Man

Ok... I'm more of the type to verify that nothing got damaged because remember you are highly modified and running higher boost. I look at this way testing is cheap.

Like I know being I just checked mine last night from the Fire Meeting. In the 2002 Dodge Cummins I got 193*F worth of coolant on a 12*F night and the temperature coming out the dash was 135-140*F depending on fan speed. Now if both heater hoses are hot then the heater core is plugged up and not exchanging heat. Just like a plugged up radiator both hoses will be hot because of a lack of heat exchange. Just because fluid flows through it doesn't mean its good. Just like a plugged radiator will still flow coolant too but most of the tube don't so the heat exchanging effect is poor hence why a truck will over heat. Same with my truck not both hoses are hot. One is hot the other is cooler because of good heat exchanging from the heater core. Both hoses hot = Plugged heat core.One hose hot and the other cooler = Good heater core exchanging heat with cold air.

Fixed. Heck even my little "Stove That Jack Built" is well in the 500 pound range. Even 2 men have trouble packing mine around. I could only imagine the shear weight of that stove and all the heavy steel in the doors. OMG! No longer in the pounds listing its in the Tons category.

Same here made it to a full high of 18*F so far... In New Meadows, ID proper I was total it was -5*F yesterday for a high. Heck last night in Riggins, ID I was barely 12-14*F last night according to the thermometer in the truck.

Ultimately piston and rings issues are the biggest reason for blow by issues. Compression test removes that factor by doing the test and knowing your pressures. Yes. A good tight engine will have 400-450 PSI of compression. Now any cylinder damage be it rings, piston, head or valves will show up as lower pressure on the test. Then a leak down test will tell you where the leak is going like in to the oil system, coolant, exhaust or maybe intake. Yes these thing can and do happen but still it would be a good thing to test the compression to rule out the possibility of any cylinder damage issues.

I've got the house in the mountains but lacking the stove like that.

Time to do a compression test to see where you stand.

Yes. Watch this video.

Good to hear she is at home.

How about from the manufacture? www.scangauge.com

You never going let me get away with it eh?

11 PSI is like saying Cummins engine needs a minimum of 10 PSI of oil pressure at idle and 30 PSI at 2K RPM's and you've got 11 PSI and 31 PSI. How long would you expect that engine to last? Same goes for the VP44 pump how long do you expect it to last? Also consider the accurancy of the gauge. What if the gauge is +/- 1 PSI accurate. So that could mean at worst it 10 PSI or 12 PSI. Why hang right at the breaking limits of specs when you can have some breathing room.

Haven't had a Lab before. German Shepherds and Doberman Pinchers mostly.

http://www.rumormillnews.com/cgi-bin/forum.cgi?read=293560 http://vaticproject.blogspot.com/2013/12/serious-message-to-police-by-courageous.html http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOsN-P5abVg

As for the IAT sensor that data is unknown. Like I know after testing the IAT and ECT sensors on the Cummins they are the same. But still haven't done the IAT on the gasser yet. So I don't know if the same thermistor was used or not. So this will require testing and a live data tool. How I did it with the Cummins is unplugged the IAT and kept stuffing resistors in till I made the scale list in the article page. But you'll get you answers from a live data tool that reports the IAT temp for said resistance. As for the absolute high spot of each engine I not sure of that either it will take time and study work to find how each engine like IAT temps at what level. But as for the 96 Dodge Ram 1500 it shown to like above 100*F intake air temp for MPG's.

Even my link shows that it was destroyed. I kind of doubt it yet...

Made it 0*F last night in New Meadows...You know its cold when the sliding glass door freezes shut. (double pane)

14-20 is optimal. The over flow valve is open and the cooling and lubing of the VP44 is optimal. 10-14 is marginal. This is the period of time that the overflow valve is starting to close. <=10 is damaging. By the time the pressure falls to 10 PSI the overflow valve is completely close and zero return fuel is given so now there is no extra cooling for the PSG and no extra lubrication for the part internal parts. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/88-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-overflow-valve

Like MoparMom... If it wasn't for the nose bleed she would been on the same track.

Like the study work I'm doing now with the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 and my friends Chevy 6.0L V8 truck. We are both finding that extremely low IAT temp will reduce MPG's. Now with temperature near zero this morning he's getting roughly +10-15*F and even his ScanGauge is follow the rule of thumb "For every 10* drop from 140*F you'll lose about 1 MPG" it still holds true even on his truck for the time being. I know even mine is fighting to get near 12-14 MPG now for the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 the IAT's continue to fall...Cold Air isn't all that its cracked up to be... Maybe for racing but not for the daily driver. Back in the 60-70's we use to have exhaust manifold risers that went to the air filter to pre-heat the air and help vaporize the fuel on a cold day. Now all the modern vehicles are all about Cold Air Intakes and no longer about making the fuel efficient to burn. In both diesel and gasoline engines the whole trick is to convert the liquid fuel to vapor so it can be burned. Either engine can't burn liquid fuel properly or effectively...

Sorry to say for optimal performance you going to replace the Drawstraw like it or not. If you keep the factory sender you'll notice much wider pressure swings than if you do it right and change all plumbing from tank to VP44 to 1/2" lines. As for the pump regulator I've got the old school spring and check ball. The only thing I got to do once in awhile is pull it out and set it back up. The ball tends to work its way into the spring coils. As for the adjustable regulator the common problem there is that pressure falls a bit people adjust up again. Then next morning its too high now adjust down. Up.. Down.. Up... Down... The cycle continues. The problem is the mess of springs and sliding plunger that is suppose to control the pressure but it only takes a small bit of debris to hang it up. Adjustable http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3372&d=1325366951 AirDog Check ball and Spring.

Not to :hijack:This is one of the the reason I don't exactly like the Bank module and the Edge Juice. Being both modules work the same way but get different inputs to do the same output. But the point is this one module is tapping in all over the engine getting input for all its output stacked or coupling to sensors. In any rate is it possible the Bank module is screwing up the ECM feeds? Is there possibility that the Bank module has finally having issues and its pulling down the ECM inputs? (Either directly or through the CANBUS if used?)

No you won't. There is more issues with the adjustable pressure regulator than the old school check ball and spring.

As long as they are working dogs and not lap dogs I'm happy. As for you your little addition to the family I'm hope your ready for the house breaking...