Mopar1973Man

Guessin' http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/vehicle/2002-dodge-ram%20pickup%202500%203500--instrument-general/15-863--354197/

Another good reason to keep my 2 truck I've got now...

Mechanical fan will always pull more CFM's of air than any electric fan. As for mechanical fan they do not place a load on the engine until locked. Even with electric fans you now placing the fan load on the alternator which placed it load back on the belt anyways. So how was converting from mechanical to electric any improvement? Just to make you think a bit.

When I have pets or children in the truck I normal always shut down down the engine. Just too risky...

Limited slip. Yeah its time for the fluid to be changed and new modifier put back in. Boy I'm glad I've got standard differential in my truck no clutches to change and no friction modifier to put in.

Alpine Fir, White Fir, Red Fir, Lodge Pole, Yellow Pine, Ponderosa Pine, Spruce, etc. All soft wood... I burn roughly 10-12 cords a winter for 2 houses and 1 shop stove.

Like my old 1976 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome was a good RV for cold weather and held up really good to cold weather. Easy to keep from freezing and very little problems. My 2000 Jayco Eagle currently is horrid for winter weather. As soon as the temp falls near freezing the bathroom water lines start to freeze because the lines run outside the house and back up through the bathroom floor so there is about 12 feet of line that freezes really easy. So the only way I can winter camp is dry camping. All water has to be brought into the RV in 5 gallon jugs.

2001 trucks require a OBDII error code reader to get the codes. I would buy or barrow a OBDII code reader and just get the codes. Most all auto part stores with read your codes for free.

I'm glad you got that checked and enjoy your trip...

Usually the tag is on the differential showing the ratio or looking the glove box for the tag showing the gear ratio and on some trucks the tag could be under the hood to. I would pop the differential cover off and look and see what's happening. You might want to have a camera ready to pop a picture or two.

Right on. Congrads for 3rd place for a first time try.

I'm a hydraulic splitter myself I use a 20 ton splitter. I stopped till the summer heat tones down a bit. Because I love to split firewood its just I hate to set up and and shut down with in a few hours. I can do it for the whole afternoon if the weather is cool enough. But we have been seeing 95-105*F temps here at the house all summer. Ughhh... Just to darn hot to do it right now.

Sounds like the gauge itself is bad if the pyrometer probe and wiring is good.

No spare parts here.I just do my monthly inspections of the vehicle looking for damage, leaks, etc. Nothing more. I don't change sensors unless failed or throwing a error code. ECM replacement is needed if clean power is kept to it and it should last a very long time. Like CajFlynn made over 1 million miles on his ECM before replacement. Injection pump (VP44) I don't bother with it either as long as the historic MPG and performance is still good no need to mess with it.

Ok. So its different that the older starter I dealt with. So now the big trick is making sure the brush plate is in right and the right brushes in the right holder.

Wow! Even my un-local injection shop 120 miles away in Lewiston, ID will pop test for free but charge $15 a injector for re-tune which is $90 for all 6 again. But the initial pop test is free though. I would do a bit of calling around and see what you turn up. What hang me up is everytime you put the aftermarket injectors back in the problem is back but the stock injectors are fine. Now as you give more throttle the injection pump creates more pressure increasing the amount of fuel sprayed. So if there was injection pump issue I would think you would see high end power loss not idle issues. As for crossover tube if they are damaged then it wouldn't matter what set of injectors it would do it with both. So that still leads me back to the injectors. Just thinking out loud.

I wish I could see the entire starter before it was pull apart. I scratching my head to the 2 holes and the 2 threaded holes. There has to be a means of setting the timing of the brush plate and keeping it exactly right. The last starter I played with was on a 1992 Cummins so it might be different in plate design. But still the brushes have to be timed.

Odd... :think:As far as I've known the rear axle sensor controlled the speedometer but I guess the front do the speedometer. I'll have to try your test too and see what happens.

CCD network wiring. You can measure from the ODBII port on pins 3 and 11 to ground. Here is the correct error code definitions and the diagnostics for it. P1689 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44 P1698 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/234-p1698-no-bus-message-received-from-pcm P0562 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/197-p0562-charging-system-voltage-too-low P0382 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/183-p0382-intake-air-heater-relay-2-control-circuit P0380 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/181-p0380-intake-air-heater-relay-1-control-circuit P0215 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/160-p0215-fuel-injection-pump-control-circuit

I would say degrease and check again. I kind of doubt the head gasket is the cause but would say the tappet cover is more likely. Hot oil does weird things as it travels on a hot block blowing in the breeze.

:think:I've never heard of it. Weird but I learned its quick fix.

I wish I could find the pictures I had of a friends starter I took totally apart. All I can tell you there is a square notch in the brush plate and there will be a square lug or pin in the can that lines the brush plate up in perfect position. If the plate is out of time or just wrong position then there is a problem. As for the lack of spin is the contacts that control power for the motor itself. So if the pinion is popping out then the contact plunger is moving but not connecting to the motor (contact problem).

I do want to apologise to AH64ID if he took it the wrong way.

Nope. During the time of hose clamp vs. turbo I asked around to a bunch of vendors about upgraded turbo with my exhaust brake. No one had a upgrade for me at the time nor any suggestion of turbo that would fit the Jacobs brake. That's why I still have a stock turbo. Everyone suggested I ditch my exhaust brake then I could upgrade. But to keep it I have to keep the HX35W turbo. Not going to argue that you are 100% correct. Still not quite willing to believe it yet... (personally). So from -20*F to 110*F net me 24% loss. Well maybe seem a bit steep... Food for thought. Some of my basis of the warmer air idea. Also looking at ISX without a fan and warmer temp he creates. http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/general/0708dp_1997_dodge_ram_3500_dualie_cummins/viewall.html

But once again that was a short burst down the interstate which I never use. Also could I ask if you could repeat that again? Get the same MPG numbers and with the same load. I will admit I've seen rare high MPG's like I noted in my logs. Even ISX has seen the same thing too. Rare but do happen. So what I look at is the typical average. Correct that why I said a bit of abuse. Very true. After seeing ISX finding on the turbo discharge temps and the what the intercooler has to expel I would say you absolute correct there too. But no cooling issues unless pushing excessive with heavy load in too high of gear. Yes. I will agree at this point you need the colder air to over come the weight/load issues. So very true this why I will not upgrade more than I have. I'm at my limit. But like I stated before I got go WOT with totally stock truck and still see 1,400*F EGT's towing. So even in stock form it was mis-matched. Never said you abusing yours. Just stated it was the far extent would be abuse. Not throwing stones either. Once again... Not my Cummins. Also I never said anything about you. Just experiences I've had and how I handle hauling heavy loads and how I leave margin for safety. Nothing about your driving style. And no it wasn't meant to be rude it just I factor in road, trailer, etc but more. After this happened in the past. About the turbo ok. Asking politely how could I change my current turbo to be more efficient without replacing both turbo, exhaust brake, cam or head studs? Seriously scratching my head on that one? Just to be clear I'm not trying to be rude to anyone just I look at things from efficiency angle and less from power performance angle. This is a heck of a debate though. So. Let me back up a second why does Wild & Free say it perfectly ok to run +150HP injectors against a stock HX35W turbo? Once again racing application. That for sure not matched... I'll have to find the thread. Don't really buy that too well. Once the vehicle is warmed up so is all the gear train too. It warm to the touch as well. Wind drag change I will admit air does become more dense but I'm pretty sure it's not going change that drastic. ISX do you have a formula for wind density, temperature vs. drag coefficient. I would love to see if this is actual a truth how much lost there is to wind drag vs. temp.