Mopar1973Man

Interesting theory...

As far as what I've seen for the starters they are interchangeable. Most of us just rebuild them ourselves and don't have to pay the big price of replacement.

I'm pretty sure I'm right at $36 without plates... That nearly a $60 dollar increase...

As you can see there is no valve in the heater core just hoses back out to the block. The only thing that controls temperature is a butterfly valve that routes air to or away from the heater core.

That's is something I can never do again is the short hair cuts. I was force as a kid for school dress code to have short hair. I hated it so bad because my hair would spike out being cut short and would require huge amounts of hair spray or hair gel to keep it glued down. Like wearing a crunchy helmet that itched all the time. So once I got to public school I vowed to never cut my hair short again. So the pony tail was down to my waist at on point till the time I got trapped under my pickup with my hair caught up in the creeper. So the pony tail was chopped off and now every thing is kept shoulder length. To this day I still hate when the barber gets just a wee bit carried away with my bangs it shows. They just spike out when my hair dries...

Basically the P0216 code is a wear code from lack of fuel pressure. The timing piston wore out and now doesn't respond to commands for advance timing. When the ECM commands for more advancement it has a certain amount of time to respond but when the VP44 doesn't hit the mark in time then POOF! P0216 code is set. Usually low pressure is main cause but all fuel lubricity is also a secondary cause that causes the wear issues. Bosch states fuel must be below 450 HFRR score to pass and US diesel fuel is typically ~520 HFRR which doesn't make the grade.

Another thing to know if you clear 200-250K miles with a 53 block most likely nothing will happen for the rest of it life. Not all 53 block where thin. But this doesn't mean you can go out on flog the crap out of it cold. Just mean be nice to it.

In cold starts I let it warm up till 100*F worth of coolant and then take off. Once I see the temp gauge up to 165*F the bottom of the normal band then I kick the pig. Warming up fully before driving is rather wasteful for fuel either using high idle or idling the engine. The only time I use high idle any more is when I'm in a hurry and need heat to get the ice of the wind shield or need to idle for extended period then I kick 6 cylinder high idle. The best man to ask is CajFlynn since he cleared 1 million miles with a 53 block.

I'm glad we kick Rough Creek Fire and its out. Don't get me wrong I like fighting fires I just hate doing in while its unseasonably hot during the Rough Creek fire it was ranging 110-115*F in Riggins and at the spike camp it was 107-110*F. Way hotter than normal for these parts. Still think the electronic site fire was nice small 6 acre burn way up on top of Cold Spring Mountain cool mornings and nice afternoons.

Dennhop pretty much got it covered I would check error codes and see what pops up.

Click the link above... They are just a poor filter and pass way too much dust and dirt. K&N - Take notice that amount of dust, dirt and oil. BHAF - Take notice there is no dust, no dirt and no oil.

Yea I know. I'll be changing plates this spring. With the old trailer I could more or less sneak by and never had a problem. But now I know I've got to upgrade plates. With RV's though is exempt and special plates are NOT required. Strange huh?...

Holy Cow... :rolleyes:First off I don't need to say anything about "for hire" to anyone other than the person I'm hauling for. Second off like my buddy that asked me to haul firewood for him was present during the haul. I'm talking like some in the area needs someone to go down and pick up a refrigerator at Home Depot, or haul firewood because their pickup is broke down, etc. As for weight I doubt I'll ever be close to 26,001 pounds and require a CDL. Being the truck is only rated for 20,000# GCWR and the trailer is rated for 7,000# GVWR. Well below Idaho CDL requirements.Now if I was hauling a huge gooseneck trailer and hauling vehicles, equipment, construction goods, etc with a trailer in excess of the GCWR 20,000# of the truck and seen by law enforcement doing every day then yes I would say I'm in trouble. But a odd job every now and then (once a month if that) I doubt I got to worry too much. In 25 years of dragging my trailers around I've never been question on who I'm hauling for or why.

Sad to hear that you ended up buying a starter. I've fixed enough of these darn things to do it blindfolded. So if you hang on to it and we meet sometime in the future I could get it straighten out some time.

Beautiful truck. I know can see where the 2nd gen body style came from. :wink:Welcome to the family.

Most likely limp mode about the ramps. If the engine can't see RPM's then the ECM is rather blind to how much fuel is given.So the crank sensor fixed the issues since the error codes are gone now.As for the starter bolts not to bad on a stock truck.

It's the A hole that gets ruined with time and debris that causes most Common Rail Fuel System Failures. When the injector is stuck open because the A hole can't be closed then thee injector continues to fire diesel fuel through the entire 4 cycles of the piston which typically wipes out the rings and or pistons. The average cost of injectors is about 2 to 3 time more than a VP44 cost today.Here is RockAuto.Com for one 6.7L injector for 2007 Dodge Ram ($6,180 for all 6 injectors)

Here is food for thought... Bosch VP44 injection pump requirements http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements P1689 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44

That's about it. There brush plate sits down inside the starter motor housing there is a stamped dent in the side of the motor case that should look like a index pin for the plate to index to a single square notch. The only thing I can say is take it apart again and look at the plate I know there is a index notch for the plate to sit in.

Tend to agree... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter

There is a single index pin (dent) in the case for the brush plate to index from. Should be a single square notch on the plate that index to that pin (dent) in the case.

Soldering heavy gauge wires requires at least 100w or bigger soldering iron to do that if its a cheap 15-35w it will never provide enough heat to solder the leads. As for the slow cranking did you index the brushes correctly in the housing? If they are not index it will create its own issues. Also if the bushes are not making contact properly it will pulling double the amp on 2 brushes compared to half as much on 4 brushes. It only take 1 brush to fail to make 2 dead.

Problem is 3rd Gen cost more when they fail (injectors) vs. VP44's on the 24V engines. The life span of 3rd gen is about half of a 24V. So you would be better off putting money into the 24V with some gauges.

Just use a ScanGauge II they can be calibrated for any fuel system with any mods and show close to perfect MPG numbers. :whistle:Math formula for instant MPG's...Forumla: Speed (MPH) / Flow (GPH) = MPG

98.5 to 02 24V life span is 1/2 million to 1 million miles.03 to current common rail life span is 200K to maybe pushing hard 500K.I've been asking around on the common rail and most fail because of the injectors. Either with washed out rings or burnt pistons take your pick. The only thing that typically fail on a 24V is the VP44.