Mopar1973Man

You can over-inflate your tire to improve your MPG numbers but now your tire wear becomes more in the centers and less on the shoulders. Traction on dirt roads is also reduced and ride is rougher. Using the math gives you a middle of the road for the weight you are now currently carrying. Good ride, good tire wear, good MPG numbers. It handles its weight just fine, traction on dirt roads is OK. Under-inflation you gain good amount of traction in loose dirt and on snow. But take a risk of blow out if hauling heavy. Then the tire wears more on the shoulders than in the centers. Usually the truck feels squirrelly and mushy. Between using a tread depth gauge and the math I can tune the pressures to get the best ride and tread life from the tire. Typically my MPG's are unaffected by using the formula for pressures. Being I'm now capable of reaching mid-20's when I want to with a empty truck.Ok lets use AH64ID table...245/75 R16 tire in the table list at 35 PSI at 1,700 pounds.Formula now...1700 / 3042 = 0.55 x 80 PSI = 44 PSI1865 / 3042 = 0.61 x 80 PSI = 49 PSI2030 / 3042 = 0.66 x 80 PSI = 53 PSI2205 / 3042 = 0.72 x 80 PSI = 58 PSI2335 / 3042 = 0.76 x 80 PSI = 61 PSI... I think you see a difference.

Be careful... Might be a bigger carbon footprint... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2158-Biofuels-emit-400-percent-more-CO2-than-regular-fuels?highlight=biodiesel+400%25 Doubt that if the tanks is already cleaned out then there should be no reason for frequent filter changes unless the fuel itself is dirty. And my last filter change was at 30k miles... Filter still look good... Remember this is petroleum fuel not biodiesel. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6071&d=1376955306

The reason why it won't work is because let say the diode is installed so only 12 volt positive comes through like normal. Ok now let say a diode in the alternator fails either open or shorted. Now you created a ripple that travels up and down (funky kind of square wave). So the output diode will most likely mirror this behavior with every time the wave swing down it shuts off power flow. It hard to say without seeing the input wave form to know what the output is like.As for Hex0rz post I would start by checking alternator output for AC noise.

AH64ID is right is very linear in pointing out the pressure for weight. But where it comes in handy is getting the right pressure for the tires from the get go. Like the owners manual might state some numbers that are close. But as you buy different tires, different sizes, different load ranges, etc each and everyone needs a bit of tuning for optimal tread wear and traction.So I'll break it down for you...(Axle weight / 2) / Tire Weight capacity x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation pressure.So say my front axle weighs 4,400 pounds. I need to divide that in half to get the weight at both tires. So that gives me 2,200 pound on each front tire. Now looking at the capacity of the tire which is stamped on all tires you need the max weight number which typically is 3,042 pounds. So you would divide 2,200 by 3,042 and get a percent (decimal) as a return. In this example it would be 0.72 . This is the percent of load on the tire in weight from 0 to 1 (0% to 100%). Then you would take the maximum inflation number which is typically 80 PSI on a Load range E tire. Now you would multiply 0.72 by 80 and get your inflation value. 57.8 PSI.Like other example of tires I've Ran...235/85 R16 - Load Range G (3750# @ 110 PSI)4400 / 2 = 2200 / 3750 = 0.58 x 110 = 64.5 PSI265/75 R16 - Load Range E (2415# @ 80 PSI)4400 / 2 = 2200 / 3415 = 0.64 x 80 = 51.5 PSISo you can't use the same inflation from one rating of tire to another they all vary just a bit. Even look at the difference from the tires I just listed there is a slight variation to the pressure numbers.

Assuming its a carb'ed unit I would pull the carb off and go back through it and double check all fuel jets and all air jets for plugging. Change the fuel filter again. Might go as far as change the tank of fuel out if it got moisture/water in it.

I need to get my hunting license so I can go grouse hunting. I've had one sitting on the front porch here for the past couple of days. I'd almost had a 3 for 1 deal with the ATV but I was bit slow on the throttle. :banghead:

:shrug:When I've done my injectors last time I never even cracked a injector line at all. I just crank till she fired up typically in about 10-15 seconds. Even doing filter changes (both AirDog and the stock filter) I just bump the starter crack the line at the VP44 inlet till fuell is present and start the engine.

Biodiesel typically has less BTU content (high cetane) vs. petroleum and 2 cycle oil mix (lower cetane).Biodiesel can and has separated and settled to the bottom of tanks in the cold of winter. Homebrew Biodiesel tends to be dirty fuel common to plug up filters premature. Homebrew Biodiesel has been known to cause injection pump damage. The only bonus to biodiesel is its lubricity its extremely good.

I've seen blowby so bad that the cap when unscrew was shot out of your hand and hit the hood. (Common Rail)

Assuming vapor right? Yes its normal. If you place the can in the hole and the cap is blown off the hole then that is excessive blowby.

Wait till you see it at -25*F or colder you'll swear someone lit a fire under your truck. There will be white vapor rising from as far as the rear bumper.

Vitals I can give... (24.7 MPG) Cargo and Passengers: 2 on board (350#), groceries (80#), 3/8 Tank of fuel High Temp Outside: 65*F Speed: 55 MPH or lower speed limits never exceeded 55 MPH. IAT: Forced to 143*F checked actual a few times and it varied from 110-115*F. (Winter Front Used!) Coolant Temp: 195-197*F (Warmer Coolant) Boost: 1.5 to 3 PSI on the flats and tried not to climb much above 10 PSI while climbing grades. EGT's: (450-500*F down) (550-600*F up) on average max'ed out at 750-800*F climbing 7% grade at 35-40 MPH (not count slowing down for corners acceleration.) Tire Pressures: Front Axle: 58 PSI - Rear Axle: 37 PSI Fuel was treated for 128:1 ratio 2 cycle oil. Air Conditioning was on and used. Elevation: McCall, ID 5,100 feet approx. Home: 2,800 Feet measured. MPG - Instant MPG number Cmg - Current MPG for the Day Tmg - Total For the Tank IA - IAT Temps (forced) Yes. My AVG over the tank (Tmg) is really low I've been using the truck mostly for hauling trailers and today was my empty trip for groceries in McCall, ID. But it goes to prove warmer air does produce slightly better quality for MPG's for 2.8 MPG gain...

Cylinder wear or piston ring wear will cause blowby issues. Compression test will spot if you have issues. As for blow by are you losing any oil from the breather?This is normal...

Might not exactly be a just a MAP sensor. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low To add ot the diagnostic it could be a boost fooler issue if your using one as well. (Open circuit).

I totally agree... Follow the the top 10 (Ten Commandments) you'll do just fine.

IAT sensor has to drop below 60-65*F for grid heaters to start. You might want to verify you IAT temps.P0380 and P0382 are both error codes for grid heaters.

Are people this blind can see the flashing lights and warnings?

Codes what codes are you getting?ECM, PCM and VP44 are the actual battery cable. Lighting and other accessories use the other body grounds.

Exactly... Just like ISX pointed out. Like up here its not some much as getting to 2 vehicle accidents but 1 vehicle accidents or vehicle vs. animal. Like couple years ago a unlucky person up here in Idaho lost his life to a cow. Yes. A cow he wasn't speeding or anything but in the dark of night hit a cow at about 60-65 MPH and went over his hood and crush him. Other vehicle accidents up here include like in the video where he's taking about the yellow signs. Ok... I've got a stretch of canyon same corner 3 times running this year has had vehicle vs. mountain of course the mountain won. Each and every accident in this corner was in way excess of the mark YELLOW sign speed (35 MPH) and most like above the speed limit (45 MPH) as well. Even though this section of canyon is reduced speed limit people still feel they MUST drive 65 MPH down this narrow stretch of canyon road with barricade on one side and a mountain on the other. There is just zero room for error. I drive in such of fashion up here that I'm constantly asking myself..."What if a deer jump out of ditch onto the road?""What if grandma pulls out of the next driveway around this blind corner?""What if there is a car passing over the next blind hill top at excessive speed?"All these thing have occurred to me and lucky enough I was at or lower than speed limit and avoided a accident. Like Idaho laws states you can drive BELOW speed limit legally as long as you not delaying more than 3 vehicles if so then you must yield to the traffic. Typically the 2 vehicle accidents are because people are stupid and pass in blind corners or over blind hill tops. Or tailgate excessive close so the next stop you make they can't react in time and either rear-end you or take out the on coming traffic in the other lane trying to avoid you.All I can say after all the years of working with EMT and Fire Dept. Be smart and drive what is safe to you!

I got a solution from Deborah... I've got sleeves I can add to the stem of the filter base to tighten up the core of the roll. As for the rolls being short I've still got a few more cases of TP left with the larger size yet. You could place a piece of plastic bar in the base of the can to hopefully take up some of the room. Thinking out loud.

That's what's scary. These are college grads from high dollar schools running the show. Harvard / Yale etc. Then the truly ignorant people are just blinded by the media and looking for the FREE hand outs from the Gov't so makes for a bad deal either way.

Personally I think he needs to sell the RV as salvage and sell the truck and find a small Geo to drive around... But that's just me. How can you forget that you have a monster trailer behind you and cram it through that tiny tunnel ripping all the roof equipment off and then forget your length and not adjust your corners properly?

I really don't see a need for the coolers unless your seeing dis-colored trans fluid well before its change time show that its broke down from heat. So if the fluid is stay clear colored for most of the way to 100k miles then you should be fine. At the worst you could install a trans temp gauge and see what's going on if your really concerned.

I've heard of them but not many that I know of use the product. The thing is I never could get any solid information on point pour reduction, HFRR score, cetane score, etc.