Mopar1973Man

Some models I've seen where there is a test port at the inlet of the filter housing and then the second port on the inlet of the VP44.

Hunting for more information I found the page of where the picture came from. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_engine

All tires should be replaced in 5 year period. But no... ST tires have just as much shelf life as any other tire. It just most people abuse the tires with too much weight, too fast of speed, under/over inflated tire pressures, etc. So ST's tend to get a bad rap for failures. After running 3 years on ST's on my truck and never had a single failure not even a flat tire it just proves that if you do you homework and purchase the proper tire for the purpose it will not fail regardless if it a ST tire or not. A matter of fact I kept the use ST tires for spares...

$7,999 you stole that RV for that price! :spend:So your repair list is rather short.

Heck... To transfer the plate from the old trailer to the BigTex was only $5 bucks. When I register the trailer again in 2014 a 10 Year tag is only $28-$32 bucks If I remember right. Last year registration for the 2002 Dodge and including plates. Registration .............. $24.00 Plate ....................... $6.00 EMS ........................ $1.25 ISP ......................... $3.00 Admin. .................... $3.00 Mail ........................ $0.50 TOTAL ..................... $37.75 It's cheaper living in Central Idaho...

I'm thankful of living in Idaho there is only 2 highways in the state with speeds up at 75 MPH. Most other roads are 55-65 MPH. As for the ST tire it going to be tough to beat being that switching to LT (Light Truck) tire the weight capacity typically goes down but the speed rating goes up then visa-vera with ST (Special Trailer) tire where the weight capacity goes up and the speed rating goes down. Now there is more ST tires typically have stronger side wall construction compared to LT which is not designed for scrubbing of the tires when turning tight with dual or triple axles which ST is designed for. You could spend more money and get a better speed rated tire like a Q Speed rating (99 MPH) but of course it going to be more expensive. I personally loved my previous set of tires on my truck they where a set of Solid-Trac by Voma which where ST Tires (ST 235/85 R16's) with a weight capacity of 3,750# at 110 PSI and they where a Load Range G tire (14 ply) with a Speed Rating of Q (99 MPH). Now find that tire in a 15" for your size and your set forever! http://www.bigotires.com/Tire-Detail/VOMA/SOLID-TRAC-RADIAL-A-S-TRAILER/23024

No. That is the job of the fuel filter to prevent any debris from ever reaching that point because if so that means the injection pump has been eating dirt/debris too and it not going to live long either.

There is a very little change going to 4" exhaust the actually restriction is from the turbo not so much the pipe. IMHO...

Here is what I watch typically. InciWeb... http://www.inciweb.org/state/13/ Or the map version. Esri.com... http://www.esri.com/services/disaster-response/wildlandfire/latest-news-map

Ok. Just for you CSM Connector tube (or crossover tube) is the tube that connects the high pressure line to injector. Inside the crossover tube is a filter called a edge filter. This filter takes small debris particles and beats then in the funnel shaped V's till the debris is small enough to pass-through the injector. On 12V's the edge filter is part of the injector body.

For a small price I would just change all four tires on the trailer knowing that they are equal sized and equal load capacity. I wouldn't suggest mixing age of tires (new vs. old) and mixing sizes. Like I've got just cheap ST Tires on the RV now and understand they are a 65 MPH limit tire. Knowing this I will not travel faster than 55 MPH with the RV in tow. Not worth damaging the RV or having blowout from pushing the tires to the breaking limit of blowout. I will typically check hub and tire temps when I stop for fuel or to rest. So I'm always aware of tire and axle condition. As for trailer axles I pack the bearings by hand every spring of the year. I only paid $350 for all four tires on the RV. TowMax S/T (225/75 R15) I'm in my 3rd year on them and zero problems!

Like I'll admit I just done a camping trip up north with my RV. Climbed several 7% grades (Whitebird, ID., Lewiston, ID., Deary, ID., etc.) Did it all with the RV loaded with everything including water. I will admit I could of done 4th gear on most of the grades but the amount of heat that was creating was more than my liking. Remember our temperature up here have been in the range of 95-105*F. So I would back down to 3rd Gear @ 35 MPH and walk over the grades without a single issue (195*F coolant 950-1,000 EGT's). All I got is the +50HP injectors, Edge Comp (5x3), HX35W Turbo, Straight pipe 3", and BHAF. I don't see a reason for upgrading your turbo like Wild & Free mentions there is a lot that can be done with a stock turbo. I treat my truck like a 80K pound semi. "Slow and Low that is the tempo" is what I tell myself and I always get to my destination. I follow along with all the semi-truck traffic.

The problem is that all washable media filter tend to either break down over period of washing cycles and then filtering ability is reduced. Then the other side is the problem you had where its plugged up and can't be properly cleaned any longer. Other problems is people tend to improperly wash the filter and now deposit dirt on the intake side and allow engine now to inhale the dirt. One of the few reason I tend to fall back to a paper element where its its service life is over then toss out the dirty element and replace with a new filter. I can understand the big thing for high flow filters and cold air intake for racing applications where the engine is ran WOT at high boost down a track. But for daily driving where you might use a short burst of boost but typically low boost there is no need for the fancy hi-flow filters.

Be aware the Jacobs Brake will keep you trapped at a HX35W turbo. So this is one of my many reasons why I'm not going any bigger fuel wise. With my combo of +50HP and Edge Comp I still have good MPG's and no EGT problems with the 3" stock pipe.

I use 1/8" air brake line which happens to be rated for burst strength of about 600-800 PSI. So 1/4" line is over kill.14-20 PSI is normal range for fuel pressure.5 PSI drop is a sign of plugged filter from one port to the other.

Wow! You'll be living in luxury in that beast! WOW!

Ok. I also going to request some interior pictures too. I'm curious of your floor plan and layout. It always gives me ideas for storage, changes, or maybe a mod to do... But I'm really curious of that over all length and maybe when you get time to get a full scale weight of that beast.Funny you happen to mention the damage done to a Ford truck being over at the RV forum the Ford truck is the most common used truck for towing RV's.

I think that is not true...Even mine show the same thing but came stock with 265's. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1546&d=1281643390 Even Mom's 96 came with 235's

That thing is heavy (16,000#) and huge (40 ft)! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5993&d=1375327056 Compare to my small (31 ft) and light (7,500#). I would be careful with the gooseneck adapter. I've heard the same thing to about 5th wheel pins and hitch being destroyed. I would for sure do some research and double check everything to be sure your hitch set up is set for that much weight and leverage force. I'm curious of your overall length is hitched up.

Well... I'm not a name brand person at all. With all my offroad usage I'm typically around 30K miles a set of tires. I've tried Big O Tires, Cooper, Voma, HiFly, etc. Cooper STT's - I like them for a good offroad and snow traction good tire but way too heavy also there is roughly a 2 MPG loss from running them. Toyo is going to be roughly the same because they are both so close to the same design. Big O Tires - where really good years ago till they change the rubber compound and the tread pattern then they went down hill. Voma - was a trailer ST tire that was a Load Range G tire very good design very stout tire held up to just about everything I could toss at it but the tread pattern was only street tire so snow and mud traction was poor. But a very light weight tire very good MPG numbers! Hifly - that I've got on now I really like they are a nice AT tire with street manners. Still a very light weight tire and has little to no effect on MPG's but haven't had a shot at snow yet. Winter is coming. But so far for all the firewood hauling and trailer towing they done awesome even with the exhaust brake on steep dirt grades.

Yea... Mopar1973Man -><-AH64ID... I'm VP44 lover... I've got two guys up here with 6.7L Cummins now. One is a insulation business and the other is a outfitter. Both owners are going through the gutting the DPF and blocking the EGR. Funny both had no problems getting the stuff to do it being all the EPA crack downs. But so far I've got little nothing to report about the 6.7L series as of yet. Just a lot of stuff to yank off the EGR cooler is a PITA to pull off from what I've been told. I got to admit the VP44 series is get older and hard to find a good condition truck and eventually it too will fade away. My biggest thing is I've seen so many CR engine up in central Idaho ruined by failed injectors where they are blowing oil out the crankcase vent and barely will run any more. What even worse is most of them are stock trucks without any mods.

There is a lot of ranches I've worked on up here in Idaho that are still without power. That being said go up and spent the night at one of them in a old cabin and wood fire stove and get up to minus weather and foot of fresh snow on the truck. No way to plug in but cycle the grid heaters twice and light it up. Let the high idle kick in and no time the glass is thawing out.

Ultimately plugging in is the best because now your already at 110-120*F of coolant temp from the start. But out here in Idaho the current bushes don't survive the bit cold so it tough to plug in a truck to keep a block heater going if there isn't any power. That's the stop gap that the high idle fills in. Kind of like easy to plug in at home but go to work and leave the truck parked for several hours unplugged in the cold then the high idle will cover that void. I guess it comes down to getting the block up to temp any way you can. If you can even purchase a coolant heater that is diesel powered so you never worry again. (Going over board now!)

I typically test cooling systems cold at about 16-18 PSI and look for wet spots to form. Like on Mom's 96 Dodge the intake manifold gasket was bad and was leaking but never dripped on the floor because the block temp would dry it up before leaving a trace. But pumped up cold and let it sit the leak should show itself within about a hour if its slow.

That's because the more virtual loading you put against the engine the more heat it creates. Idling or high idling creates the least amount of heat vs. any kind of virtual load like 3 cylinder and/or a exhaust brake.