Mopar1973Man

Here is the fleetguard filter user 30,000 miles vs. fleetguard new. Then here is older picture back before I had a AirDog 150 and this was done at 15,000 miles. Fleetguard filter (AirDog 150) with about 2K miles if that. I cut it open because I wanted to know if it plugged or was it the AirDog (AirDog regulator goofed up!)

You might do a power steering fluid flush and then tighten the sector adjustment on the steering box to take up a bit of slop. But it depends on how wore out the box is too. If you decide to adjust the sector adjustment I would do it a little at a time 1/4 turn and test drive.

I figured now would be a good time to change the fuel filters being its double the typical mileage. Stock is suppose to change out at 15,000 miles or every other oil change. Here is what the stock filter and the Donaldson P551315 looks like after 30,000 miles of fuel pumped through them.I must be getting clean fuel because I was totally expecting after 30,000 miles I would be look at a AirDog filter that was black and the stock filter about the color I see now. But I was shocked to see both rather light colored. Now I know to just use my fuel pressure gauge and look for the fuel pressure drop. Because both of these could of gone farther yet and still in good condition.

Well even the last 3 days have been 16-17 MPG because of trailer hauling. Even today with doing service work to the truck and quick blast up the highway and back (2 miles) its barely 15 MPG. But tomorrow I'll most likely be heading to Grangeville, ID for sprinkler parts. Nice long haul up 7% grade for 7 miles.

Remember this is only a day trip 106 miles one time hitter. It was day after day tank total out and pump fill type. I'm hoping to do it again the same type of trip and hit those kind of numbers again. If can then I consider it real but if its just a single high spot hitter well... The RV275 injectors from CajFlynn were OK but the pop pressure and nozzles wasn't correct nor a clean spray. The +50HP injectors are much cleaner spray pattern. Then after my last big haul 430 miles to Heyburn Park with the RV the truck has changed in performance. I think there might of been carbon build up or something? (Can't explain it) Ever since then the MPG's have been slightly strong across the board. Canopy/Topper was on. I've got little to no reason to pull it off now being I've got the BigTex 70TV I can hitch up to haul big stuff now. Winter is coming we'll see what happens with these new +50 Injectors through the winter now. You got to remember when I got the +50HP injectors they where flow matched and pop tested to match as well across all 6 injectors. Not just 6 injectors pull off the shelf and tossed in a box and shipped. Even worse to expect good anything from 400k mile RV275 injectors not even the right pop pressure at the end 260 bar?! When it should be 310 bar. They were fun but now seeing the difference between OK and done right is way different even in power.

No. This is totally separate relay added to delay the lift pump from starting.

I tend to agree the clutch is slipping.

All tapped for the Edge Comp on 5x3 and +50HP Vulcan Performance Injectors just a bit haze to light smoke. But When I'm capable of... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8290-I-think-I-finally-caught-up-with-ISX-for-a-day-run! I'm not going to argue much... As why I suggest the Stealth plate more is because I've seen the document where they say tap the wire (if I'm not mistaken the one closest to the engine) and found a few people with pumps where the other wire was correct. Weird but it did happen. The Stealth plate just keeps from these weird things from happening and guessin' .

I would suggest the Stealth Plate then you don't have to worry about cutting up the wiring try to tap the right wire. Weather tight tap every time and no guessing which wire.

Vitals I can give... Cargo and Passengers: 2 on board (350#), groceries (80#), 3/4 Tank of fuel High Temp Outside: 105*F Speed: 55 MPH or lower speed limits never exceeded 55 MPH. IAT: Forced to 143*F checked actual a few times and it varied from 132-138*F. Coolant Temp: 193-195*F Boost: 1.5 to 3 PSI on the flats and tried not to climb much above 10 PSI while climbing grades. EGT's: (450-500*F down) (550-600*F up) on average max'ed out at 750-800*F climbing 7% grade at 35-40 MPH (not count slowing down for corners acceleration.) Tire Pressures: Front Axle: 58 PSI - Rear Axle: 37 PSI Fuel was treated for 128:1 ratio 2 cycle oil. Air Conditioning was on and used. Elevation: McCall, ID 5,100 feet approx. Home: 2,800 Feet measured. Riggins, ID 1,800 feet approx. Going up I used 4th Gear all the way from home to McCall, ID then at select times that I could I would use 5th gear on the way down. Same with the Trip to Riggins, ID I used 5th gear selectively and return home I used 4th solely climbing back home. Last two days I've been dragging around the trailer and got 17.5 MPG yesterday with 200# (GCW 9,460#) of construction supplies and today got 16.8 MPG dragging the trailer with my ATV (~900#) in the back of the trailer. Still using my same tricks.

Not using 5th gear up hills any longer. Using 4th gear 1:1 direct drive (2,100 RPM). So like my entire trip to McCall is mostly uphill I see roughly 150*F EGT drop in 4th compared to 5th so the MPG's are higher as well. So if the EGT's are down you know your burning less fuel. Even up hill I'm average at 550-600*F compared 700-800*F in 5th.That and the fact IAT was close to actual fooled temp at 135*F for the day. (Fooled temp is 143*F) Boost remained below 5 PSI till I hit the 7% grade of course it rose too but not much above 10-12 PSI.Nothing else changed. As for the trailer with the large tailgate I did find the optimal 20-25 MPG range too is right at 40-45 MPH now the wind drag is reduced enough to gain the MPG's. My RV is about the same I can start touch high teens at 40-45 MPH.

Well back to normal dayz again. :rolleyes:Hitched up the BigTex 70TV and hauled to Ontario, OR for shopping and tried all my tricks to improve the MPG towing but its kind of hard with a 5 foot tall tailgate that is screened but its still a good wind drag. I managed 17.5 MPG round trip to Ontario, OR and back home again. I even stopped and scaled on the way home...Truck Front Axle ............ 4,080 pounds (Normal Curb 4,440)Truck Rear Axle ............. 3,340 pounds (Normal Curb 2,860)Trailer Axles .................. 2,040 Pounds (Dry Weight 1,800)Gross Weight ................. 9,460 Pounds

Always knew the VP44 was capable of so much more but people always beat down the VP44 saying tops for fuel only is typically 600 HP. Now the new line has been drawn in the sand.

You guys are getting to me about to the point of pulling the under belly off my RV and re-working it so I could use it nearly year round. Right now I've got really poor insulated sewage tanks and fresh water tanks. I'm sure with a bit a time and effort I could upgrade my own RV to meet Idaho's mild winter conditions say like 25-35*F realm without much help. Right now at 31*F I can freeze the bathroom right up tight. I've done it once already. :banghead:

Unless the scan tool is reporting PSIa then 14.3 PSIa is normal atmosphere pressure.

Another RV forum I moderator over at... http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php Winter camping article http://www.rvforum.net/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=443:wintercamtips&catid=14:newcomers-need-to-know&Itemid=45

Nope sorry its not me... :whistle:I've got irrigation dam about a 1/4 to 1/3 mile behind the house that starts out 8" ling and necks down to 4" then at the top of the ridge it necks down to 1" by the time it hits the bottom of the hill at the house I've got 116-118 PSI of pressure. So that's what powers my hydro electric generator is the extra pressure which produces a extra 200-250w worth of power.

Cruise set at 55 MPH all day long except for other speed zones for city speed limits in McCall and Riggins is 25 MPH. Here is my route of travel. http://goo.gl/maps/7U93D Now there is a few extra miles added because of forgetting stuff in McCall and having to turn back around and go back for one last part I was looking for. I wish I could it day in and day out but like tomorrow I'm hitching up the BigTex 70TV and heading for Ontario for some stuff from Home Depot that total for the tank will be trashed.

Well here you go... 27.2 MPG and 106 Mile trip from home to McCall, ID then back home the into Riggins, ID and then back home. All up and down hills. But I finally caught up to ISX's 27 MPG... :woot:Sorry for the blurry pic but I turn off my camera flash to get the photos without the flash blocking out the screens.

Thank you 98whitelightnin! I called the local Cummins shop in Boise, ID and he's selling them for a whole $13.37 for the seal kit. Man that's Cheap! So I told him to mail it out. So in a few days I'll be able to do a write up on vacuum pump.

As for the Edge Juice just remember to use a needle valve before the fuel pressure sender. Out in in Idaho Red and on-road diesel are both the same. Just one has dye the other doesn't. I use 2 cycle oil every tank 128:1 ratio or 1 oz for every gallon. A: I would skip the Edge Juice fall back to Edge Comp then do separate gauges. This will ultimately cost about the same but then when something fails then you only got to replace the one part not a entire expensive unit. B: MPG? Well that easy if you follow along with my you can reach 20's easy. As for VP44 failures all you got to do is read a article... This will explain the 4 thing the VP44 requires for long life I'm going to cross 200K on this pump really soon. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements As for AirDog setup you can shim the spring for more fuel pressure. I just used a few washers with proper OD and ID measurements. As for Denver emissions the Edge Comp will be the best route. Because you can unplug the entire unit and make it disappear in under a 2 minutes. The only thing they might find is your tap point on the pump be it a stealth plate or a crummy scotch lock.

When you get the compressor removed check for Black Death in the lines if so make sure to flush all the debris from the system before even installing the new compressor. The A/C line flush is pretty expensive. Make sure to replace the accumulator and the orifice tube as well.

Little more on the CCD network. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

Same here.

Double check the condition of the Edge EZ. I've seen where you open up the ends of the Edge EZ and see the circuit board is all corroded from water entering the case.