Mopar1973Man

At least you got good idle pressure!

Like myself I'm running Edge Comp (5x3), +50 HP Injectors and HX35 Turbo and its absolutely fine for a combination. Towing power is awesome and EGT's are very controllable. He's running... The only thing about a turbo upgrade is the amount of lag you might add.

EKkkk! I highly suggest against the 45* cuts. Draw Straw I without any cuts. I've got the thickness of a quarter (coin) from the bottom and 4 small notches on the tip no more that 1/16 of inch deep. You have to remember the bottom of the tank will defect when going from empty to full almost a full 3/8" difference. As for the flow issue I would go back over all the plumbing and verify there is no hard kinks or bends that might slow flow down. Then also double check the pressure regulator I've heard they had issues.

Damage to both lift pump and VP44. Maybe even the fuel tank as well.

The only thing I don't like about it. Here in Idaho I see summer temps as high as 115*F and we all know about the heat soak issues with the VP44. The fact a mechanical pump is that low at idle bother me. Where my AirDog is nearly solid and never moves much from 17-18 PSI as of lately. In your case make sure to kick the idle up after starting hot to purge the heat from the VP44 you need to get above 14 PSI to get the overflow valve open.

Just need to yank out those 6 speed trans and slap in a 5 speed. I only use 4 quarts (1 gallon) no problems and no 5th gear problems.

Ummm... How? When I plant my foot to the floor on 5x5 I'm running or using is one in the same. The only reason I'm running 5x3 is smoke control. Same amount of fuel. The sublevel 3 is 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI then cut loose with level 5 power.

Stay in touch and keep us posted on that pump I'm curious of the life span and performance of it.

Master/slave unit from NAPA is like a $110 bucks and you have to bleed yourself. Still running mine years later. (Soutbend ConOFE Clutch)

:lmao2:Internet myth... I ran 5x5 solid for over 2 years and got good MPG numbers and no issues with my VP44 injection pump. I've got nearly 200k on my VP44 injection pump now and still rolling just fine.

I've got a member (Towhungerford) that called today and is having problems with a 2003 Dodge Cummins that has a knock while under load and goes away after it warms up. The injectors where just replaced and the knock came after the injector replacement. The injectors where replaced because of hard starting issues. But now there is a audible knock while under load cold but as the engine warms up the knock leaves. Got me scratching my head.

Bad cab grounds? Check the grounds at the driver side kick panel and the grounds under the hood on the driver side.

I agree with MnTom the tank vent on top on the sender is plugged up.

Usually the fuel pressure on the WOT will drop with a dirty filter where demand is the highest.But if the coolant temperature is high your idle could drop lower causing a drop in fuel pressure.

Or is it like the old stock Carters that just return the fuel flow back to the input side? Re-circulating the fuel from output back to input.

Anytime a clutch hydraulic problem occurs it just best to replace both master and slave. I typically just go to local NAPA store and buy master and slave and bleed myself. Hang the whole unit from the shop ceiling and let gravity do its job allowing the air to rise while pumping the slave cylinder rod.

5x5... Sounds crazy but the higher the levels and sublevel the earlier the timing is given so all you need to do is keep you foot off the throttle.

Typical average between 500k to 1 million miles. So have go much farther than 1 million without a rebuild. Since rebuilds are very rare and most that fail before this point are from pushing to hard so they end up doing custom building at this point. Once again rebuilding is not common place unless you planing on going big HP/TQ which requires upgrades like cams and such. But most people can do their own rebuilding its just the machine work should be done it a shop that's typically handles diesels.

Don't let your last repair hang you up too much sometimes thing just happen to fail at the same time of the failure too. So double check your work but don't let it hang you up too.

I would look at... [*]Wheel Bearing [*]Brake calipers (Make sure the caliper is binding up) [*]Brake hardware (bolts, caliper mounting, etc.) [*]Front axle u-joints I've seen over time where brake calipers bind up rub the rotor excessively and after sitting all night and cold rub and do weird things. I've had a report from anyother Dodge owner that was losing the hardware to the caliper and allowing it to rub at a weird angle.

Double check...MAX A/C, A/C, BiLevel, DEF-Floor and DEF modes are A/C used positions.Floor and Vent are without A/C. A/C system will naturally cut out during the winter because the low side switch will not allow temperatures below 32*F and hence so when the weather freezing cold the A/C is most likely disabled by the low side switch. On humid cool days the A/C will naturally dry the cab air out and reduce fogging of the windows hence why its setup the way it is.

:iagree:I would just replace the sender for a small price of $70 or so bucks. Yeah the vacuum motor is mounted under the driver side battery and usually gets rather ate up from the battery acid. As for the hard starts. If you got a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and to watch it when you first crank it up will give you a clue of a air leak issues. Because at key ON most see a quick burst of pressure with a air leak there will not be this burst. Then as you go to cranking typically 7-12 PSI is normal cranking pressure you'll most likely not see this but lower till it pushes the bubble out then jump up.Common air leaks.Crossover tube O-ringsReturn fuel banjo at the back of the head.Return fuel Tee at the back of the engine.Suction line from the tank to the lift pump. (Pressure lines will always leak outwards when pressure applied)

Way different that old school AirDog 150's... The only problem mine had was cramming the check ball back into the coil of the spring which I fixed by egg shaping the last coil. Very stable. But looking at Raptor's adjustable regulator there looks to be way too much stuff to bind up, stick, wear out. Compared to mine its just a plastic ball coated in rubber. Lots of steel on aluminum http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6101

Could you explain the differences as well? I understand its a specification but clarify the difference between them both.

A drop in cetane (2 cycle oil) helps with increasing BTU's. Possible increase in manifold temp could help with MPG's as noted between these two runs. Warmer air does improve MPG's. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8290-I-think-I-finally-caught-up-with-ISX-for-a-day-run!?p=80081#post80081 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8290-I-think-I-finally-caught-up-with-ISX-for-a-day-run!?p=80399#post80399