Mopar1973Man

I actually got about 1-2 inches of snow here and I fired up my ATV and plowed a few driveways in the neighborhood. The biggest thing is to turn up the gravel for the friends and neighbors because skiing your car down a steep driveway can be spooky. So I left my blade down on the ATV and stirred up the gravel for them. But man getting the last house done and my toes and ears were cold I mean COLD. Even at +10*F this morning and 30-40 MPH on a ATV it sure does blow right through you. Ugh!

I'm not even worried... :neutral:Too many miles between us and too many differences. Don't get me wrong I still think YabbaDoo is great gal but I've also had my fair share of bad relationships and even lost a step-son to unknown brain virus at the age of 7 year old. As for having friends of both male and female that fine with me. But as for marriage or deep relationship... Naw... Not happening you guys can beat that drum all you want but not me. As for the stove idea. I would love to see more of the beastly looking stove and different designs. As a matter of fact I've got a old stove in my basement but I would never want to put a fire into. The stove is not air tight but my Dad refurbished it and it looks nearly brand new.Excuse the dusty appearance...

Heat wave here +22*F with 79% humidity at 9:21 MST...

Well at 70 MPH it sure changes but when winter time is around we typically don't have highway conditions to drive 70 MPH. Let be realistic here too can 70 MPH be done on snow covered roads or icy conditions safely? Not to mention the only place I know in the entire state of Idaho that is 75 MPH are the interstates and they are not around here. But cold weather won't degrade city driving or rural driving very much. I think it going to be mostly fluid drag. (Gear lubes etc.)Everything from 55 MPH changes very drastic... Most all site I've been across all state the same thing that regardless drag is exponential and climbs a steep curve after 55 MPH.

Mostly plugged passages. As for me I can't say its the mineral in the water since I'm using tap water and creek water in my truck and still never had a issue with a cooling system or heater core. I will admit I had to change my heater core because of a cracked tube (vibration / movement damage) not a plugged heater core or rotten heater core. So I really can't base my heater core as a good test bed but the radiator is spotless internally yet.

I've seen this a few times where people claim that cold weather will produce more drag on a vehicle just the cold dense air. So just for the fun of it I went and did the calculation on just the air drag part of it. Not factoring in other loses like fluid thickening... Here is the formulas I used Drag http://www.thefintels.com/aer/dragcalc.htm Air Density http://www.denysschen.com/catalogue/density.aspx Dodge Ram Specs including Drag Coefficient http://www.pickuptrucks.com/html/ram_specs.html So using local information and building a test bed on this. Vehicle - 2nd Generation Dodge Ram 2500 truck Test #1 Winter (Column C) Stats [*]+10*F Temperature [*]90% Humidity [*]2,800 ft Elevation [*]45 MPH (Road conditions locally) Test #2 Summer (Column B) Stats [*]+100*F Temperature [*]10% Humidity [*]2,800 ft Elevation [*]65 MPH Test #3 Comparing both using both summer and winter conditions. (Columns E & F) Which this shows roughly 4.659 MPH difference between winter and summer condition will be nearly equal in drag. Just for fun compare 55 and 65 MPH...

Created a write rather late but here it is... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8814-Heater-Core-Performance

Opps... My bad I was looking at both the 200w and 100w series.I wonder what the total temp will be at the VP44? 200*F is a bit excessive...

That's part of the E-brake cable assembly.Funny part looking at all the cables on RockAuto.com none of them have that spring. I know what your talking about. But strange not to see it on the new cables.

I wonder how hot these get being a 100w (16.6 Amp load @ 12 V DC)?

Even up here in Idaho I've been close to the minus numbers for the week and because of my location of the filters I'm much more immune to the gelling problem. Sad thing is short bed brackets are no longer sold.

https-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vj9n5Ee88U

Another crazy thought do you have a small pin hole that is spraying coolant from a heater hose towards that fender and causing that?

Well technically this is not my primary truck for driving typical it just that fuel prices are wacky again so I'm using the gas powered truck more so why gasoline is cheap. But Since I rarely ever use the 4WD and notice it was violent about releasing I'm not expecting to to major overhaul of the engagement system since it still engages just fine. It just the release is violent and doesn't want to release in a timely fashion so it keeps the axle locked excessive period of time and with a loud THUNK! you hear the axle release and all is good. I guess I'll have to get off my rear end tomorrow and get the shop heated up and get it looked at so I can finish this thread out. It seem the vacuum lines are hooked up but I'll check to see if the vacuum is actually there or not.

With the key ON but engine not running check your tapped wire for +12V.

Right near +10*F as of tonight and still fuel is flowing in the truck by morning it will be -5*F roughly here. In all the years and nasty winter with temps down to -20*F to -25*F never had a gelling issues yet but I'm extremely picky about where I buy fuel and quiz the fuel station owners about PPD (Pour Point Depressants) and there usage in there fuels.How else do you think I got this picture?

I'm suppose to get mine here in the near future Ed Grafton is suppose to send it out ASAP so I can post up pictures and articles. The gauge pod unit is suppose to slide in like a normal gauge pod. I wish I could help out more but I'm still waiting for my units so I can complete the write up, articles, instructions and diagnostics. I wish I could help more.

Well Gang. I've been seen these goofy threads about people trying to figure out if a heater core is functional or plugged up. So since I took my truck to town for a job I figure I do the bench testing for the heater core to let you know what a good functional heater core will do. So measuring the vent temperature from the center vents with Bi-Level setting I measured...Fan Lo - 160*F roughlyFan Hi - 150*F roughlyOutside temperature - +10*FEngine Coolant Temperature - 193-195*FAs for the heater hoses they should not both be equally hot. I checked mine after driving about 6 miles from town stopped at a rest area and left the blower on Hi and felt both hoses. The hose from the head is very hot and you can only hold it for a short period before the heat burns your hand. As for the other hose that routes under the turbo in the steel tube that hose is warm but you can hold on to it for a very long time without even letting go. I see several threads where people say that if both hoses are hot the heater core is functional. This is wrong there should be a exchange of heat/cold with the heater core so one hose should always be cooler which is the return line from the heater core. If both hoses are equally hot then the heater core is not exchanging heat/cold and not flowing optimally. So I figure I'd throw this tidbit out there for everyone and hopefully help others diagnose heater core performance issue.

Out here the roads are spotted black ice might have a 100 yards or 1 mile stretch of ice. Instead of in and out of 4WD I gotten used to just backing down the speed travel the slick areas cautiously and then when in the clear pick up the speed to what I'm comfortable with. Thanks to ISX. Black vacuum line is to engage and the red to disengage. Posi-lock is way over the top. Once again this is a low budget truck that has zero value where something like my Cummins still holding excellent value I can and would do something like that if I had a CAD axle. But this 96 Dodge the blue book... Well look for yourself it's not worth the effort.

Might be true that with higher HP number its possible the blow gets worse but still where do you draw the line in the sand saying this is too much and band-aiding the problem might or might not be the answer. I tend to say the racing crowd is a bit different being the truck goes from idle to WOT and stays there the entire time.

New Meadows, ID weather tower report -11*F and McCall, ID airport tower reports -9*F I'm showing +10*F as a starting temp of the day... Still down right cold.

That's where I differ from most I don't use 4WD very much. Even out here in the snow and frozen roads I typically leave it in 2WD. As for the CAD unit on the 96 it always engages but hangs up on release. Because the simple fact is 4WD will give you traction to climb a slick grade but 4WD will not keep you from sliding off a highway. So my 4WD is a "Ace up my sleeve" so when I need it I've got it but normally don't need it. So many vehicle around me that are strictly 2WD pickup, cars, utility trucks and fire trucks etc. They don't require 4WD for winter travel just a Smart Driver.Like suggested above the vacuum might be the cause of the hang up and not pulling the collar back to release?

Another version..."Honey I put a huge piece of wood in the stove and the door wouldn't shut right so I forced it and blew the glass out."(Oh shizzle moment in life to call 911)

Very cool thank you ISX for the addition to the 911 section I'm sure others will enjoy this.

Yeah right... I doubt that seriously. I will admit yes YabbaDoo is nice looking gal but I'm not exactly looking for relationship. So no disrespect to the females of the site but sorry I'm not exactly looking or even thinking that. But I'm proud to see females jumping on board and getting there hands dirty and maintaining their trucks. But as for the stove... It's not exactly like above but it would work for cooking the need be. I got to admit it does a excellent job of heating the main house. I've got one similar in the guest house and it got a flat top to cook on but since the stove is stuff in the fireplace its rather poor for cooking on but once again in a pinch you could if you had to. Both stoves are built here locally... Called... "Stove That Jack Built".