Mopar1973Man

I would look up the code and do the diagnostics just to double check electrical connections or anything that might of triggered them.

Before this get all mixed up. Timbo APPS does NOT have a voltage setting. It only got a slack setting. With the throttle arm free from the idle screw check the voltage this will be what you want. Then screw the idle stop screw in till the voltage rises now STOP! Then back off till you reach you starting voltage. Then take a extra 1/2 turn off then your done. Now do a APPS reset by pulling the battery cables loose for a 15-30 minutes.

I'll give this a bump for you. I sorry I can't help you out much I've got a manual Cummins and Auto in my gasser. The throttle link are way different on both. I do know the adjust is there near the APPS sensor but how to do it I'm not sure.

I know that AH64ID could most like spit the answer right out. But what are you testing first off? What filter?

Replace both batteries as a set.

So what was the AC volts out of the alternator? (Less than 0.1 AC volts is normal). Battery temp sensor is doing its job as the battery warms up the charge volts goes down. As a battery gets colder the volts go up. But typically the normal range is 13.5 to 14.5 volts. CCD Network is a 2.49 and 2.51 volt bus system works just like your Ethernet network for your computer. What causes a Bus failure. [*] Bus Shorted to Battery [*] Bus Shorted to 5 Volts [*] Bus Shorted to Ground [*] Bus (+) Shorted to Bus (–) [*] Bus (–) and Bus (+) Open [*] Bus (+) Open [*] Bus (–) Open [*] No Bus Bias [*] Bus Bias Level Too High [*] Bus Bias Level Too Low [*] No Bus Termination [*] Not Receiving Bus Messages Correctly

Basically want to measure the output of the alternator in DC and AC volts. Need a good DVM like A Fluke or SnapOn. DC scale should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts typically. The AC volts scale should be less than 0.1 volts. Typically a good alternator will measure about 0.01 to 0.02 volts AC. Even better yet a O-scope... Please watch this video.

Replace both batteries. Never just one. As for the Alternator when the test was done what was the AC Noise output? Sorry I don't have anything for the turbo clean up but I'm sure others can chime in to get you cleaned up.

Here is the CCD Network Bus wiring.. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

Makes it rather tough with no other clues to what it could be at this point. I don't have anything to really work from other than the RPM's vary downward. Might try a cam sensor but I don't even have anything giving a reason to replace it.

It would be best to just remove the turbo so you can remove the compressor housing and clean the entire compressor wheel and the rest of the compressor housing you can see. Remember that turbo is spin a very high rate of RPM's and its best to keep the compressor wheel clean and balanced. Compressor housing for HX35 is just a snap ring so its super easy to remove and clean right.

Typically sensors will throw a code if going out. Thinking out loud... Its kind of like sitting in neutral and have the engine loading up with excessive drag?

Typically the whole cleaning of sensors does nothing to fix issues or problems. If you don't own a exhaust brake then there is no reason to even worry. Only exhaust brake owner have to check or clean the sensors off. Like myself I'm purposely letting mine go to see if they can actually be fouled but so far neither the MAP or the IAT have problems still working just fine after 2 years of exhaust brake usage.

When batteries fail they don't have to fail with low volts but then can fail where they no longer have CCA ability to twist the engine over. As battery age they will continue to charge but the plate will degrade and amperage power will degrade. It's possible. I would have the batteries load tested.

Batteries you remove and test separately. Alternator you remove and test on test bench. Also use a DVM and check AC volts output must be (0.1 AC Volts or LESS) or... Main feed cables you use a DVM. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables As for fuel pressure... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

Test the alternator.Test the batteries.Voltage drop test the main cables.Might have to pull the starter and inspect the brushes and contacts.

Remember HID's usage as a after-market lighting can be illegal in some areas for that exact problem.

I'm so very close to that kind of lifestyle. There are homes out here that are without out power some have phone but thats it. Talking to the older folks around here they can tell the very same tales of building log cabin by hand and hauling you firewood home on a sled. Yeah... I live in the modern world but live right on the border of that. Thank you for the wonderful video and it was captivating...

I got smart and talked to a neighbor down the way from me and her son lives in Oregon and he picked up my 9mm ammo for cheap at WalMart. What weird is he said his WalMart has a good stock on ammo and rarely sold out.

Wow... Riggins ID is now down to 3.329 for unleaded but still 4.069 for diesel. Cummins is parked for now...

I could see the poor quality parts as being a answer but fuel... Hmmm... Doesn't the Edge filter in the connector tubes help in keeping debris out? I know ultimately yes good filter are the best answer but this rather a common thing I hear of injectors failing (cracking, blowing chunks out, etc.) Some of these failures from rail pressure booster modules that drive rail pressure up too.

:duh:Ahhh... So common of the Common Rails to eat injectors...

Becareful. The high idle is great for getting it warm be remember it does consume big quantity of fuel while running so weigh that into your thoughts. I've measured upwards of 6-8 GPH while running high idle 3 cylinder and exhaust brake. The 6-8 GPH is well above normal flows. Just for sake of reference at 55 MPH consuming 2.5 GPH is 22 MPG. (55 MPH / 2.5 GPH = 22 MPG). So yes it will warm up the truck for you but at a cost of more fuel used per day. No, you don't have to wait for the high idle to finish like I do is warm up to 100*F and cancel and leave.

Ugh... I just got gas for the 96 and its $3.499 for unleaded but $4.069 for diesel..

I kind of wondering if this could be warranty issue?