Mopar1973Man

I need to get a special fuse for my Fluke meter to measure Amps. I blew it out years ago... (D'Oh!)

If I remember right its suppose to be 50mA with the 24V electronics. Your seeing 500mA draw which is ten times more.

Interesting job.

I'm just curious about the temperature performance of the thermostat. If diesel prices wasn't so high I would be getting a 200*F and dropping it in and driving the diesel but I'm stuck driving the 96 gasser... (Cry)

Still running the 235/85 R16 on both trucks and having zero issues. On rotation I typically just do front to rear. The only time I criss-crossed was if I was wearing rather strangely on the edges then I try criss-crossing to see if it corrects the issue. But I'll warn you most times you criss cross you'll notice the control and ride suffer till the tire wear back in again.

If you want to quit cleaning terminals just cover the terminals in engine oil and you'll never clean them again.

No assistant... Crack the bleed screw open. Hook up the tube. Jump in the driver seat start slowly pumping the brakes. The tubing is long enough and also the fluid in the jar prevents sucking air back into the system so you can typically pump about 5 times a wheel to clear air. I find way of doing things by myself...

Removing the batteries will not hurt the truck. But I would check the batteries often while on the trickle charger. I typically check the batteries on the vehicles, house and RV about once a month to insure none of the cell go dry while charging. If they do go dry the cell is permanently damaged.

Keep us posted on your results...

In all these years all I use is a Mayo Jar and a piece of tubing... Cheap and it works just fine.

Yeah... Sad but true the free version of chat is only 5 people. I was shocked at how often the chat room exceeded the 5 people limit. WOW! http://www.invisionpower.com/apps/chat/

Yeah... Sad but true the free version of chat is only 5 people. I was shocked at how often the chat room exceeded the 5 people limit. WOW!

Here is DAP's page http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/vp44-combo.htm Here is Vulcan's http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Bosch-VP44-p/vp44.htm Take notice both are listed with NEW electronics.

Expected. Even I'm going through a learning phase trying to catch up.

Hmmm... Being compressed air always has a certain amount of moisture its going to freeze. I'm not sure what you could do to possibly filter off or separate the water before devices? I'm reverse of you the Jacobs brake works on vacuum so there is no chance of water in the system since water boils in a vacuum.

Naturally with Xylene it raises the HFRR number its nothing more than paint thinner. Benzene is a cancer causing agent.

Common for wildland fire problem having a ember drift into your firewood pile. Having a ember drift into your firewood pile. Either from a chimney fire or wildland fire. Oh... I scared my neighbor down the road so bad about chimney fires he came up last night and barrowed my chimney brush.

All pointing to a AC noise level of the alternator is too high. Have the alternator inpected for AC noise level first before doing anything wiring wise.

Between Diesel Auto Power for his combo package of $970 for VP44 (Industrial Injection VP44) and a Raptor DDRP pump... Then I typically charge $300 for a labor and will do the VP44 where the truck sits along the road, in your yard, etc. That's a total of $1270 bucks. Oh yeah... Mitchell One and AllData both say 4 hours shop labor to change a VP44 pump. Just for fun go over to Diesel Auto Power and Vulcan Performance and take notice both sell VP44 with NEW electronics.

If anyone is going to point at a VP44 there is 2 causes for the PSG to fail. 1. Fuel pressure being too low and allowing the PSG to overheat and cause damage to itself. 2. Too high of AC noise levels and the AC power doing damage to the electronics of the VP44. #2 happens to be the most dismissed answer by "I just just bought a NEW alternator not a re manufactured." This still doesn't mean anything I've seen new alternators now (Bosch and ND's) both fail out of the box brand new. Still I highly suggest that you check for AC noise either with a DVM ant the battery terminal of the alternator or use a O-scope like here.

A variation of that... Honey the Fire Investigator said the house was a total loss because you stacked the firewood under the deck. :banghead: (Actually this is a really common problem out and very real!)

Here is more on the CCD error code... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

Already in the list of rebuilders... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders But what's odd is that diaphragm... I still to this day can't find it in any Bosch Documents. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/437-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-exploded-view

Here you go... http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_a_skiff_of_snow

I ask ISX to rework the sheet a bit more and cover a wider range but even when he asked about the the 70 MPH its only a 6 MPH difference from 100*F to 10*F. so if you just slow down 6.xxx MPH its the same drag. But once again I ask him and his talents of re-working the formula to possibly include a graph. Still in all I provided all information of the drag and everything including formulas. Still not a wise thing to do and this is what is creates so many slide off around here. Is around the next corner might bet completely a sheet of ice and it too late to slow down or that one bridge might be completely froze over and go gliding over into the river. I seen the my buddy with the tow truck pulling that poor sole out of the river lucky man. I've seen road conditions so slick that a person physically can't stand up only last less than 100 yards and no ice present before or after or even warning of it.