Mopar1973Man

I'm also a stock hydro's with a Soutbend Con OFE disc and no issues here. Solid hook up and very good control.

I gather this is a black/tan color cable? Which would be a ground lead. The straight black is the charge cable. I would do the AC noise test to verify if the alternator is indeed creating AC noise.

Then there is this too. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8458-Thoughts-about-Raptor-pumps I'll post pics later on I've got a drawstraw yet to install.

I would do this as well. Als overify the speed your traveling with a GPS since your speedometer is most likely skewed with larger tires. [*]Check for codes [*]Check fuel pressure from idle to WOT [*]Make sure you getting into lockup [*]Overboosting (should show up in the error codes)

I got my shot to install another Raptor pump. They seem to getting worse all the time now. The base frame bracket is now a composite plastic of some sort. Can't even tight up the bolt enough to set the lock washers. It seem to start bowing really faster and looking like you could break the corners off. The since its plastic they had to make it thicker now. So now the plates don't fit behind the existing fuel line line with old school steel plates. You've got to lever the steel lines up to get the plastic plate behind it. Oh make sure to pull one holder bolt so you can. Then with all the quick connect fittings. The 2 fittings right at the pump are wiggle loose right out of the box. I can see this going bad in a very short time for the owner. The pump itself seem to be a good pump. I wasn't impressed with fact the Pureflow included two push lock fitting to trim there hoses down. It would of been better to go back to the old school roll of hose and push lock JIC's and been done. The new quick connect fitting rely on o-rings to seal the fittings where Push Lock JIC's had tapers to seal the fittings. Still cannot do custom installs with the new quick connect system. If it was me I would of install the pump up be the bed side to guard it more for the owner since he uses the truck offroad. But since it pre-cut hose I force to mount the pump in the damage path of the front tires.I did manage to toss a bit of custom install to it which can be done. Near the back of the engine on the frame rail there was a nice hole large enough to for the hose and the electrical so I ran it from there to the larger hole at the transfer case. At that point I only had about 1 foot exposed. Then since the owner had the bed off I was able to run the hose along the stock line up to the tank top. Looks very good.

I just got done doing a VP44 and Raptor pump on a local rig yesterday. I'm getting quick I manage to remove and replace a VP44 in about 2 hours. Then install the Raptor pump custom in just a bit over a hour. I think what was a amazing I did this outside in the rain no less. But for priming. I bumped the starter twice. Had 1, 3, 4 injector lines cracked. Then cracked till she attempted to start. Tighten the injector lines. Not a problem it started up and purred a bit rough. Couple of good deep throttle strokes to blow the air from the lines and smoothed out even more. http://goo.gl/maps/RQvoD

Well you put us to the test and found out no one gets there head bit off. Just the truth is told to the poster the best way we can. But back to the smoke thing. I found this out about smoke. I've got a speed zone in New Meadows, ID from 25, 35, to 55 MPH. All the locals know this and what you do is get to the 35 MPH speed limit sign doing 35 MPH get into 4th gear and mat the throttle. Take note of your speed at the 55 MPH sign which is about 180 feet from the 35 speed limit sign. Set on 5x5 with the full cloud of smoke I'm doing 61-62 MPH at the 55 MPH. Set on 5x3 which in nearly smoke less for me I cross the sign at 65 MPH. This has been witness by my friend in New Meadows, ID. So just more food for thought...Yeah I know your just yanking everyones chain...

I never use thread sealants or teflon tape on any fittings. Just way too risky of getting a small particle into the Injection pump that might cause damage or into a injector and plug it up.All my fitting are assembled with self-sealing brass fittings that do not require any sealant or tapes.

I kept my stock filter can. So I kept my fuel heater and WIF sensor which is fine by me. Easy way is to get a Big Line Kit and then you'll have the fitting from the filter to the VP44 and the hose for $39 bucks. Pretty simple.

Welcome to the family... As for the deletes its going to tough trying to find deletes and tuners being that EPA is cracking down on people doing it. Kind of like back in the day of pulling catalytic converters off of gas powered rigs.

Yes. I did have (past tense) a smoke switch. Yes it produces smoke but the function of it created more problems than its worth. Like mine all I got to do is unhook the MAP sensor with my Edge Comp and the smoke rolls. So all I did was add a switch on the MAP signal lead. Edge Comp would drive the ECM signal to max boost.Problem... Max boost means max retarded timing. Which in turns means lower MPG's and lower power. So after about year or so I ditched it completely. I would say smoke switch is junk idea. Even with a truck build for power that does produce smoke tend to just prove your a poor tuner. Because a good tuner should be capable of making big horse power with little smoke. I'm at around 400 HP now and have little to no smoke and proud of it! Basically smoke switch drives the MAP signal to the highest boost without tripping the over boost code or defueling.27.2 MPG... Catch me if you can.

Absolutely YES!I did my first brake job at 185k miles. :whistle:90% of all my stopping is done with a exhaust brake I only use my service brakes after my speed is below 20-25 MPH. They hardly ever get used.

I would assume it would be part of the central timer computer like on the 2nd gens (if this still holds true).

The instructor that we had was also a vendor of tools. He had a lifetime warranty on all tools. There was absolutely nothing his tools wouldn't cut. He went as far as cutting the steering wheel off a harden shaft. No damage at all to the tool. Now as for our dept tools I know are much much weaker and would never be able to do that. The biggest thing he cut was a 3/4 axle tube and shaft but I hard to say it the tool lost then. As for the airbag we where taught how to find most of them using a peel and peek method looking for devices. Even shot a few bags off to show strength. We has cut the driver side back so the instructor leaned the seat back against the airbag driver wheel and fired it. The seat back flew a good 20-30 feet up and back. Did the same with the passenger bag and once again eject that seat back like a toy straight up in the air. Our policy is to cut the battery power first thing to minimize the chances of deployment of a airbag during rescue.

Never seen one... Could you post a pic of this...

Remember to check the fuse size for the maximum amp rating that you would be handling like mine is a 15 Amp fuse so you know its going to be less than 15 Amps.

Motor shaft seals are a lube problem I think more than heat. Pump motor should stay cool as long is there is little resistance. AD 100 or AD 150 has a full size return where the Raptor doesn't it just re-circulates internally and tend to cavitate more so because of this design. Since there is no longer no fresh fuel flowing really the pump runs hotter at this point where a full flow AD 100 or AD 150 is returning everything to the tank. Then 1/2" lines are rated for way more flow and way less suction restriction vs. 3/8" line. Don't worry about length just increase the gauge size of the wire. Like my solar panels are about 100 feet from the house only provide a mere 15-20 DC Amps. But to over come the length problem I increase from 14 AWG to 2|0 AWG and now there is ZERO line loss in power. So in the same thing just upgrade from the current AWG size and go up to 14 AWG or even 12 AWG.

Our final car was up-side-down and the top was crush. This was to simulate a roll-over accident like leaving a canyon road and rolling down a embankment. Well our class did excellent and managed to open up the car in a move called a Oyster Cracker. It's where you remove the front fender, cut the front door hinge, rip the nader pin, then cut your rear door hinge and pop the other nader pin. Using struts to stabilize. Now cut the B post lay down on the ground. Put a ram in place and slightly lift. Now cut A post and C post. Now lifting slowly with the ram 2 guys are ratcheting the struts in tighter lifting the car and the ram is holding the roof down it turn Cracking the Oyster open freeing the patients. So this is where the instructor said you want to see a garbage truck? Hua?! We all voted "Yes!" So cut 2 relief cuts near the B post in the floor using 2 come-a-longs we managed to fold the backseat up on top of the car. So the backseat was up right and the cab was up-side-down. My buddy Kelly got the shot of all us around the Garbage truck. Oyster Cracker http://www.fireengineering.com/topics/m/video/31233413/oyster-cracker.htm

MoparMom goofed... I took extrication class but arson was my second choice. So I had 20 hours worth of being certified to cut up vehicles for 3 days. Doesn't matter how you crash there is a way to cut you out of that steel can. You'll have to wait I've got to the pictures from my buddy phone. Like I dummy I left my memory card in the computer for my camera. :banghead:

I've got a old school AirDog 150 before the new owners messed up a good design...

Out of respect and better coverage I moved your post to... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/8429-Lack-of-power

Been using standard yellow or green coolant now for +200k miles and zero damage here. It based on doing the coolant flush and change as recommended by the owners manual at 30k miles. I don't get hung up on the extended life coolant or the 5 year 100k miles stuff either. The fact is most all coolant system damage comes from the fact of people leave the coolant in way too long and the coolant turns corrosive over time. This is where the pH level shifts from 7 either towards 0 (acidic) or toward 14 (basic) either way is corrosive. Regardless of the brand of coolant if you want to do extended change then I highly suggest you get coolant test strips for check pH level. This is what extending coolant changes does... Changing every 30k miles as required by the manual... No problems.

Change you thinking. Don't move and alter ing to over come the AC noise. Why not just kill the AC noise source by fixing the alternator and be done with it. Because 99% of the time if you unhook the alternator and take a test drive the problem is gone so that alternator typically will be the problem.

Well hang around and post lots of questions. There is no such thing as a dumb question here. Just a unanswered one.

Pickled mouse doesn't even sound good.