Mopar1973Man

The only problem with any flood or fog light is check and see if the lens is replaceable and how much. I've had several high dollar lighting systems over the years and watch my money go down the drain as soon as a rock shatters the lens out of the lights. I've now flopped over to cheap seal beam bulbs they are still 100w bulb and very bright but only $18 to $22 to replace the entire bulb. I've seen grown men cry when they take a truck offroad and crush a expensive set of PIAA's or LightForce's.

I've got a alarm on mine I got a Cummins low fuel pressure switch, LED, and a cheap Radio Shack chime. Just add a tee and place the switch with the gauge supply. Now wire up the chime and the LED so when the switch comes on turns on both the chime and the LED. Still much much less than $300 bucks.

Most isolators behave this way. Just really rare to see a working last for very long either.

On my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 its 43 PSI in the front and 27 PSI in the rear. Absolutely flat wear on the tires. On the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 its 57 PSI in the front and 37 PSI in the rear. Also flat wear across the tires. Now towing I just inflate the rear to 57-60 PSI I'm golden.

Just remember you gauge accuracy isn't as good and your relying on a electronic module to convert electrical signal to gauge readings. Mechanical gauges far better gauges and do rely on any electronics at all.

There is a wide selection of modules and programmers. Me personally I'm more of a Edge Comp guys because the adjust on the fly and little to zero problems with them. Smarty is another good selection of programmer rock solid but I tend to be fussy about being able to change my tune on the fly. Diablo Power Puck was another favorite out there. TST and Smarty Combo is the best yet. All the fuel a TST can give then a boost of more fuel from Smarty and then all the timing Smarty can give... ScanGauge II is a good tool for diagnostic purpose being it can see live data and trip data on the fly.

I tend to watch both sides of the filter media (outer and inner) if the outer media is packed then tap or shake the majority. Then looking at the inner media for discoloring. Filter minder is a good tool but still there is nothing better than visual inspections to be sure. Glow plug sure do make a huge difference in starting on a cold morning. If the glow plugs are marginal or non-functional then hard starting can be noticed. But like others have said I would check power all the way down from the batteries to the glow plugs themselves to be sure there is good strong power reaching. But being you mention you had weak glow plugs at least its a easy fix for you.

I could do like Dorkweed with the 100k and 200k already.

Heck... I'm having a heat wave today at 41*F...

Nothing. Factory bore.

I would go tad lower personally so less damage is done to the relay, lift pump motor or wiring. Fuses are cheap but pumps and re-wiring a truck or fuel system could get a bit expensive. Best way to find out is measure the amperage used on the pump (or any circuit) and step up to the next fuse that clears the requirement. You can also look at wire gauge size too being that you can only get some many amps out of certain gauge wire then the smoke starts to happen.

Why is my AirDog 150 powered off a 15A fuse? 30A heck I could run two pumps on that...

Once again not enough to even worry about. Less than 1/2" might be gone by later this morning.

I would at least pull a vacuum on the system to rid the system of any moisture. The system should be capable of holding a vacuum for a very long time. This will prevent any moisture in causing rusting of parts or other issues later.

Well I would have to say check everything in the front end as well. Track bar is a good spot. But also check the ball joints, shocks, steering stabilizer, even tire balance. What we are looking for is loose parts or something that might contribute to oscillation.

Nothing to freak out about I know through RockAuto.Com the seal kit is roughly 2-3 bucks per caliper. I would just take all 4 calipers apart and clean them up and reseal them. Not hard to rebuild a caliper.

Another I forgot to mention is watch your lift pump operation too the ECM might shut down the lift pump as well.

If you unhook and of the top connectors the speedometer will drop dead. Speedometer signal comes from the ABS module so all the top plugs have to remain hooked. As for the motor connection you can leave that unhooked. Red tabbed connectors you just slide over and then squeeze the release and pull.

This might of been the reason for the ABS module cooking. The typical household battery charger might of had way too much AC noise and caused damage while cranking on the truck as the charger ran to it far limits of output. It's always been suggested to unhook the charger before starting.

Ahhh... Q: Did you have the battery charger hooked up while trying to start the truck?

When there is no longer any tach signal from the crank sensor then the PCM assumes the engine had stalled or been shutdown.

Always a good thing to go through all you basic diagnostics and testing first before throwing parts at anything.

As long as the speedometer is still functional you'll be fine. No. The only code thrown will be internal to the ABS module keeping the light running. The only way to see the code will be with the DRBIII tool since most ABS code are not sent as P codes except the P0500 code.

True. Depends on conditions of where you start.

Dusting here this morning. This ain't snow this is a tease...