Mopar1973Man

Yes Industrial Injection is a Certified Bosch re-builder. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders Also it's now Bosch Policy that all rebuilt VP44 MUST return the electronics as core to Bosch for replacement. Reusing electronics is no longer permitted from what I've been told. So that is Bosch Network wide now.

Like with my RV I typically grab the the tower heater from the house (ceramic) and take it out the RV for the cold day camp outs and it will heat that RV solely on that 1 heater to about 70*F on a 32*F day. Propane wise thats just plum insane to try and heat on these super cold days. My problem is on my RV being where the water line are for the bathroom outside the living space so mine would of be long gone froze up by now.

Teary eyed... :cry:I think that one of the reasons I'm back in the fire dept and working Search & Rescue to hopefully make a difference for people in need. It's amazing also what this web site has done and the type of people it brings together helping each other out.

Oh please... Then I might have to build another website... http://www.linkedin.com/in/mopar1973man

I'm not fat... Yes. I did keep up with Computers and Technology. As for big companies like you've listed like Dell and such I'm sorry I really can't do that any more after being burned by companies in California. Partial reason why I pack up with the parents and left California.As for the firewood you must be doing it wrong. Even back with the truck and old trailer I could make at least $320 a trip gross. Might spend $40 in diesel fuel and barely $5-10 in saw fuel. Typically I get the customer to buy the wood permit and I'm just the legs in moving it from the forest to their front yard. Nothing more. No stacking, no splitting, etc. Just cut and haul for $160 a cord. I typically can haul out 2 cords in under 4 hours from time I leave the house to the time I deliver. Typically got a buddy with me I give a chunk of the profits to but its more like 70/30 being I provide everything else. (Food, water, truck, saws, fuels, etc.) I normally don't sell till the roads are frozen up good and tight so now the price hops to roughly $200 a cord and people will pay it. (Tricks to the madness) So this is why I bring home excessive amount to make a winter profit.As for wildland our fire dept typically signs up with USFS as for local support so as soon as a lightning strike occurs we are toned out and so is USFS. So then after (I think) 4 hours we start making a pay check from USFS. If it continues to be a large scale fire then we just continue. Made a pretty fat check off of SRRFD (USFS forest fires Electronic Site Fire & Rough Creek Fire).Like Sunday I had the VP44 install to do so another paycheck. Owner was so impressed with my work he's going to get me do to gauges and a few other mods to his truck after Christmas when the cash reserves are up.So tonight I've got a Fire Meeting to go to but I'll make it a point to strike up discussions with people and see what kind of work I can get out of it like I know I got a Laptop job for my Fire Chief where I got to do some upgrades for him for Christmas.When I go to town to get supplies I typically make it a point to talk to certain people and see what moving and shaking for possible jobs or work that might be coming.

I'm not fat... Yes. I did keep up with Computers and Technology. As for big companies like you've listed like Dell and such I'm sorry I really can't do that any more after being burned by companies in California. Partial reason why I pack up with the parents and left California.As for the firewood you must be doing it wrong. Even back with the truck and old trailer I could make at least $320 a trip gross. Might spend $40 in diesel fuel and barely $5-10 in saw fuel. Typically I get the customer to buy the wood permit and I'm just the legs in moving it from the forest to their front yard. Nothing more. No stacking, no splitting, etc. Just cut and haul for $160 a cord. I typically can haul out 2 cords in under 4 hours from time I leave the house to the time I deliver. Typically got a buddy with me I give a chunk of the profits to but its more like 70/30 being I provide everything else. (Food, water, truck, saws, fuels, etc.) I normally don't sell till the roads are frozen up good and tight so now the price hops to roughly $200 a cord and people will pay it. (Tricks to the madness) So this is why I bring home excessive amount to make a winter profit.As for wildland our fire dept typically signs up with USFS as for local support so as soon as a lightning strike occurs we are toned out and so is USFS. So then after (I think) 4 hours we start making a pay check from USFS. If it continues to be a large scale fire then we just continue. Made a pretty fat check off of SRRFD (USFS forest fires Electronic Site Fire & Rough Creek Fire).Like Sunday I had the VP44 install to do so another paycheck. Owner was so impressed with my work he's going to get me do to gauges and a few other mods to his truck after Christmas when the cash reserves are up.So tonight I've got a Fire Meeting to go to but I'll make it a point to strike up discussions with people and see what kind of work I can get out of it like I know I got a Laptop job for a person on the fire dept where I got to do some upgrades for him for Christmas.When I go to town to get supplies I typically make it a point to talk to certain people and see what moving and shaking for possible jobs or work that might be coming.

Very true. Like coming down a slick dirt road 4WD will help in keeping the the axle from sliding. But once it does start to slide its really tough to recover the traction again if you have long stretches of ice/snow covered roads. I've also notice the same thing on ATV's the tend to follow this rule as well. Another thing make sure your exhaust brake is off that a great way to get a 4 wheel slide started just hit the exhaust brake and she'll start to glide on you. As for the CAD unit. Wasn't much wrong with it. It had been stuck by road debris and bent the vacuum diaphragm can so it would pull fine to engage 4WD but had troubles returning to 2WD. Vacuum was at both ports as selected. But since the can was bent it was binding the rod slightly. So I removed the CAD unit and took it over to the work bench to pop the E clips out to remove the vacuum diaphragm unit for straightening. First clip. No problem. Second clip! Ting. Tap. Tang. $__T! Damn thing went flying across the shop never found it. 3rd one was easy after the one flew. So using my table vise I clamped to the base hex and was lightly prying up with a screw driver straightening the shaft side of the vacuum diaphragm. Got it just about perfect again. So off to Riggins, ID to get a 22 cent E clip. (Grrrr!) Ok. But get back home and assembly it back together and it works good. CAD unit locks and unlocks just fine now but the transfer case is a bit slow to release. So if I pause along the road and shift either to 4WD to 2WD it will engage/disengage just fine but rolling it will unlock the CAD but hold the front shaft turning till I stop.

I would have to agree with John on this one that is best to have proper fuel that is treated for your climate than messing with a bunch of heaters. I would consider that 100w watt heater myself but I would just wire in on a toggle switch that is fed by a switch +12V from the key so that I 've never got to worry about leaving it on. The idea of using one of those for backup for sudden cold snaps than fixing poor fuel.

I just asked that question at the Chevron Station on Sunday to the gal working the counter. She didn't know the answer... But knows it now...

Fine line... There is a theory I work with but still have no proof of it. The fact the 2 cycle oil for snowmobiles is typically got a pour point to -50*F which also has a enhanced PPD (pour point depressant added) this is so oil injection system don't gell up in a snowmobile. So now if you mix -50*F pour point 2 cycle oil and -20*F pour point diesel would you expect a change in pour point? Kind of like knowing that fresh water freezes at +32*F but mix in a unknown solution of salt water and the freeze point is reduced. The only time this is not true is Synthetic 2 cycle oils since none of them have any parafin wax so they have no need for PPD to be used. So I can say that 2 cycle oil WILL NOT cause gelling issues but it might help in keeping it flowing.What really neat is the PPD that used in diesel is the same PPD used in some 2 cycle oils (petroleum).

Shim the spring with washers.

I would either look at getting a proper PPD (Pour point Depressant) or find a way to heat the fuel back above Cloud Point to reduce the gelling...

But I'll give Arizona a run for the money. I've seen 110-115*F easy in Riggins, ID then a few times really close to 120*F.

I'd never run 1/2" line into the cab even for a gauge. Maybe tiny 1/8" line on a needle valve when it would most likely only drip if it broke open 1/2" would be like a flood. I'd highly reconsider that...

Depends on your computer skills and other skills you might have. Like myself I make a few bucks here and there doing web site management and computer repairs (remotely on Linux). Like after schooling myself up on the Linux side I found several ways of making a few bucks with odd jobs at least. Best part I don't have to drive anywhere now.Since the economy is so uncertain I don't rely on just one job possibility but constantly looking for other jobs. Mostly during the winter time I look more towards the computer end but come summer time I look towards truck and firewood more so. But I've been hired to much more than that like Branding cows, fencing, wildland fire fighting, etc. Like Sunday I installed a VP44 for a local gent and made a few bucks.

My thought are as long as you cooling system is closed and not leaking then the minerals don't count either. Since I've been using creek water and well water for the cooling system the amount of minerals are measured in PPM in amount. But if you have a leaking system where water is constantly added now you would have the distilling of the mineral on the block as well. Since my truck doesn't leak coolant the block is still clean from what I can see from different openings. As for the electrolysis depending on what you need to do you can either strip metals aways or add metals. same principal about chrome plating or rust removal.Some where on the site is a article about rust removal I think Flagmanruss posted it.

PM sent.

I lost... This is a few years ago passing through New Meadows, ID. I'm holding the low limit history.

The only thing I use distilled water in is my batteries. Never used distilled water in my cooling system on any vehicle including ATV's, motorcycles, etc. The only time I've ever seen mineral build up is when someone starts skipping flushes and allows the electrolysis to oxide the metals. Typically that when the coolant starts to change rusty color from oxidation that starts from a corrosive coolant. (hi or lo pH number) I actually agree with this. It could be possible...

I actually got about 1-2 inches of snow here and I fired up my ATV and plowed a few driveways in the neighborhood. The biggest thing is to turn up the gravel for the friends and neighbors because skiing your car down a steep driveway can be spooky. So I left my blade down on the ATV and stirred up the gravel for them. But man getting the last house done and my toes and ears were cold I mean COLD. Even at +10*F this morning and 30-40 MPH on a ATV it sure does blow right through you. Ugh!

I'm not even worried... :neutral:Too many miles between us and too many differences. Don't get me wrong I still think YabbaDoo is great gal but I've also had my fair share of bad relationships and even lost a step-son to unknown brain virus at the age of 7 year old. As for having friends of both male and female that fine with me. But as for marriage or deep relationship... Naw... Not happening you guys can beat that drum all you want but not me. As for the stove idea. I would love to see more of the beastly looking stove and different designs. As a matter of fact I've got a old stove in my basement but I would never want to put a fire into. The stove is not air tight but my Dad refurbished it and it looks nearly brand new.Excuse the dusty appearance...

Heat wave here +22*F with 79% humidity at 9:21 MST...

Well at 70 MPH it sure changes but when winter time is around we typically don't have highway conditions to drive 70 MPH. Let be realistic here too can 70 MPH be done on snow covered roads or icy conditions safely? Not to mention the only place I know in the entire state of Idaho that is 75 MPH are the interstates and they are not around here. But cold weather won't degrade city driving or rural driving very much. I think it going to be mostly fluid drag. (Gear lubes etc.)Everything from 55 MPH changes very drastic... Most all site I've been across all state the same thing that regardless drag is exponential and climbs a steep curve after 55 MPH.

Mostly plugged passages. As for me I can't say its the mineral in the water since I'm using tap water and creek water in my truck and still never had a issue with a cooling system or heater core. I will admit I had to change my heater core because of a cracked tube (vibration / movement damage) not a plugged heater core or rotten heater core. So I really can't base my heater core as a good test bed but the radiator is spotless internally yet.

I've seen this a few times where people claim that cold weather will produce more drag on a vehicle just the cold dense air. So just for the fun of it I went and did the calculation on just the air drag part of it. Not factoring in other loses like fluid thickening... Here is the formulas I used Drag http://www.thefintels.com/aer/dragcalc.htm Air Density http://www.denysschen.com/catalogue/density.aspx Dodge Ram Specs including Drag Coefficient http://www.pickuptrucks.com/html/ram_specs.html So using local information and building a test bed on this. Vehicle - 2nd Generation Dodge Ram 2500 truck Test #1 Winter (Column C) Stats [*]+10*F Temperature [*]90% Humidity [*]2,800 ft Elevation [*]45 MPH (Road conditions locally) Test #2 Summer (Column B) Stats [*]+100*F Temperature [*]10% Humidity [*]2,800 ft Elevation [*]65 MPH Test #3 Comparing both using both summer and winter conditions. (Columns E & F) Which this shows roughly 4.659 MPH difference between winter and summer condition will be nearly equal in drag. Just for fun compare 55 and 65 MPH...