Mopar1973Man

No kidding. (I better not post a picture of mine right now)

I'll find out more about this tomorrow. I gotta head out shopping at the local store and head to my fire meeting tomorrow evening. So I'll get plenty of time to bench test the change.

Yes that is correct for cable assembly. Mine is set up the same way. Be smart and order both cables left and right sides.

MAP sensor is seeing too much boost for too long for P0236. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/166-p0236-map-sensor-too-high-too-long As for the dirty MAP sensor... That's becoming a Internet myth too. I've not pulled either MAP or IAT sensor on over 3 years now with a exhaust brake and not having any issues. No such thing as a dirty MAP sensor. But looking at the code the MAP sensor is working properly but you building way more boost that stock and holding way longer hence the error code.

Once again I found the check ball wedged back into the coils of the spring. I wanted to get a picture by the time I did get the camera the check ball fell out in it own and rolled across the shop floor before I could press the camera button. :banghead: So I got a bit more aggressive this time. I added a new twist to the spring I bent the very end of the spring into a L shape inwards so the tip holds the ball from starting into the coils. Time will tell...

Might not get over boost hard enough to stay below CEL from lighting up. It can do it though...

Which MAP code? P0234, P0236, P0327 or P0238??? Any of the above except P0236 will put it in limp mode. Just like driving with low oil pressure. It won't take long to destroy the injection pump.

We are heading for +40°F weather and no snow on the ground. As for plugging in the truck I typically saw 100-110°F worth of coolant temperature at start up with 750w block heater.

Come come Dave... You know that 300k miles without a picture is rather meaningless...

Is there any error codes if not then the APPS is most likely fine. Typically a APPS error will light up the CEL. What your fuel pressure like while towing?

POR15 or some waste engine oil. I do live in the rust belt I just keep the truck washed off. suggestion to John is remove the line if you can and take it into a part store and get part numbers at least even if they don't stock it. Then you can use them as a cross reference to RockAuto or similar places.

Here is the article on it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/23-brake-system/55-drum-brake-wheel-cylinder-upgrade

Just for translation for your link... Автор говорит: "Моё стандартное вождение в пробке. Авто - Nissan Pathfinder" The author says: "My standard driving in traffic. Cars - Nissan Pathfinder"

Double check there is a Load Range G tire out there with a speed rating of Q (99 MPH) and its still a ST tire.

I've got a electric rock.

Might want to check on 5 gallon bucket prices typically are better.

I spend a good hour laying on a creeper looking up at the frame and everything with a flashlight. I take notes of oil leaks, fluids level, color, and smell. Look for worn parts or damage parts. I more or less treat my truck like a airplane because if a airplane has a failure it usually turns out rather poor. When I live its the same thing. If my truck breaks down and leave me walking might turn out very poor or deadly. No cell service and might have to walk in some seriously cold weather. I'm responsible truck owner. What taught me a lesson was a ex-girlfriend. She bought a brand new Ford Ranger pickup. Nice truck and fun to drive. We'll on our ride back from over in the back country of Washington she slid off the road and blew a tire off the rim. She assumed the spare was good because it was never used. So far from true. Well the truck had a lock to keep people from stealing the tire she had no idea how to even unlock it. Then after that she had no idea where the jack and hardware was. Then after finding all that and lower the tire down to find out it only had about 15-20 PSI in the tire. So it was enough but very squirrelly driving. Now I check everything... Like in my last maintenance check of the BigTex 70TV trailer I found my trailer spare was flat. I never assume anything anymore.

Good Gawd John when was the last time you gave that thing a rust treatment?

Yea He's right Moog bars are too big I remember reading it in the instructions of the Luke's Links documents.

I make it part of my schedule maintenance to check the spare tire and it cable for damage at the same time check the tire condition, tire pressure, etc. So while I'm doing all this I'll lube up the cable winch and put it all back together.

After today's run in the Cummins to Ontario with temps as low as +6°F and IAT's down to +21°F. No I didn't put my winter fronts on. Boy did I pay for it. Coolant temps hovered right between 188-193*F and IAT's continued to follow the outside temperatures right at about +15°F to +30°F for the day. The only saving grace was the MPG fooler. So I'm upgrading ASAP to a 200*F thermostat and getting my winter front back on this truck.

Banjos just have to much restrictions even measured for ID sizes but just the fact of the huge twist in the flow pattern isn't good either.

Another good video in my bookmarks...

Heck I just go done with a full day of shopping in Ontario, OR with temperatures ranging from barely even +6°F and high of about +25°F out. About 3 good cold starts on the truck with no block heater. Out here in Idaho the current bushes tend to die off ever fall of the year so there is no current bushes to plug your truck into but the Might Cummins can with stand it just fine. I just kick the high idle on and let it warm up to at least 100°F and leave.

Now if you had only the Edge Comp and the RV275 it would be very controlled but now stacking the Smarty now you out stepped the even HX35W turbo. I've got +50 HP Injectors and Edge Comp and its a wicked combo as is.