Mopar1973Man

To bad DiPricols went out of business.

That's easy... Use a weed torch it'll get that stack to draw.

Thankfully it only +21*F this morning here. Still no snow on the ground. This has me worried about water for this coming summer. I'm used to seeing at least 2-3 feet of snow by November typically we seen 1 storm that drop a total of 6 inches and then it stopped and that was it. I keep seeing forecast for snow or rain but it never shows up.

I tend to find that a analog display is easier on the eyes being you just get use the direction of the pointer and know where everything is at pressure wise or temp wise. Digital displays are nice for absolute number but you tend to lag longer looking at digital displays than looking a analog needle. Digital with absolute numbers make it great for diagnostic reasons but analog is better for daily driving. Old school trick is take a rotate you gauges so your red line of the gauge has the pointer straight up. This doesn't look very eye pleasing but for racing world it works awesome because at a quick glance you can look for any needles pointing up knowing that you hit your redline of that gauge.

Gardening here is really difficult. There is couple of problems. 1. Animals. If you just plant your garden in a open piece of ground then every deer and what not will come and eat it for you. So now oyu must fence off you garden and the fence has to be about 6 foot tall. So we tend to garden on the deck using flower pots and the deer typically won't come near the house. 2. Only certain thing will grow here because of the ground, temperature and short growing season. Like corn is a no go it will not mature quick enough. But now radishes, lettuce, herbs, potatoes, wheat (no comment from Dripley!) all grow really well here.

Something about a good ol' Stihl Saw buzzing it way through a log at its own pace. It least I can pack the Stihl around on my shoulder where those beast just can't even make it to a tree.

This is one of the reasons I'm still trying to get my hands on a used VP44 pump and pull it apart. I'm still not exactly happy with the Bosch information I've got and keep missing this diaphragm. There is no part number nor have I seen where this part is suppose to be.

224k miles on my Dodge and never touched the transmission yet other than a clutch. I tow all the time in 5th gear. Never had a failure yet and going to continue to tow in 5th gear. I think majority of this issue stems from oversized tires. I got a buddy in New Meadows with 37" tires on his 97 and had 3rd gear syncro fail, 5th gear nut issues, and clutch failed premature. Stock sized tires don't seem to have this issue as much since you not trapping torque against the transmission as much.

Well its been brought to my attention that the boost gauge of the Edge Juice using the MAP sensor vs. Mechanical are not close at higher pressures say above 25 PSI or so the Juice slows down and the mechanical gauge is going higher faster. So the upper scale accuracy of the MAP sensor can be questionable. Fuel pressure sensor tend to fail to water hammer issues mostly. So after a period of time the fuel pressure gauge vs. mechanical tend to skew either hi or lo depending on the damage to the sensor.

Let's say my Edge Comp and +50HP injectors is a good stretch on the boost I cab bury the boost against the 35 PSI pin. So 75HP is going to put you at the limit and you'll be able to control smoke and EGT's using a module like a Edge Comp or similar.

Someone has to build a Cummins chainsaw now. Problem? How would you move around 1,100 pound Cummins?

Diagnosing noises is really tough to do. Most suggest to loosen a injector line to make a dead cylinder and listen to the change of the knock or not. This might give a clue to what it is. It could be simply a bad injector too.

Absolutely... I tend to suggest the mechanicals over any electric gauges less to go wrong and you don't have to keep buying electric sensors for them all the time when the gauge screws up.

I tend to stay away from package deals so when module gives up you'll still have your own gauges (Fuel pressure, boost and EGT's). I've seen far too many time where a module failed and the driver looses his gauges then takes a risk of high EGT's while towing or other wise. With a separate module and gauges then if something happens like Dripley just unplug the module and continue on with your stand-alone gauges but like Dripley when his died it took the gauges as well and I know he tows heavy. Modular designs are much safer than packaged designs.

Seen it before. But wonderful video on how to garden.

Another Internet myth. There is no internal battery and all software is stored in PROM. To reset the ECM just turn the ignition off for 25 seconds.

Here in my fluid pile... Change engine oil with 15w-40 either Exxon or Mobil oils (CJ-4) every 10k miles (book calls for 7,500 miles) Change Transfer case with ATF+3 every 30k miles. Transmission NV4500 use Mopar Trans Fluid and change fluid every 100k miles. Automatics 47RE should use ATF+4 fluid and change every 30k miles with a band adjustment. Axles / Diff's mine are open diff's so I use straight 80w-90 GL-5 gear lube. Power Steering fluid I flush the system out using just SuperTech Power Steering fluid. Coolant I change every 30k miles with either Napa Coolant or SuperTech Coolant and fresh thermostat.

Each grid heater draws roughly 95 Amps x 2 = 190 Amps total. The alternator only produces 120 Amps roughly.

Like around here we've had some seriously low temperatures around here that are colder than usual as well. Like at the Tamarack Mill my buddy Eric Coates drives there every day for work and he's seeing temps in the early morning hours of -15*F to -20*F easy.

I enjoyed the RV275's for a nice mild power gain very controlled smoke also. I upgraded to a +50HP injector from Vulcan performance and found that a good performance injector with clean spray pattern will produce even better MPG. But RV275's and +50's are still clean injectors also good power upgrades.

NAPA - PN# WH6820 roughly $8.00 for a the needle valve in the picture. NAPA also sell all the 1/8" NPT brass fitting too for fair price.

3,750 x 2 = 7,500# - 6084# = 1,416# Over 3,415 x 2 = 6,830# - 6084# = 746# Over More food for thought.

It's more that just one part I see so many add multiple parts like wheel size change, larger tire, leveling kit, etc. so yes I see Dorkweed comment as some what valid because why else would you add a leveling kit most do it to slide 315's tires on the truck which again changes more geometry. So why is it that two completely stock trucks don't require any of these mods? Stock size tires (235's), stock track bar (96 is still OE), only changed 1 track bar and 1 set of ball joints on the 02. Both trucks live more of its life in the back country dirt roads. But still no death wobble here... It's not the stock OE part that cause the issues. Something about a modification(s) that people are doing are creating the death wobble then require modification parts to correct the issues.

I'm a bit fussy when it comes to gauges any more. I would rather have full mechanical gauge if possible. Pyrometers with amplifiers and fuel pressure gauges with electric sender are just asking for a issue. But like my old DiPricol gauges are true mechanical and still going long after the company has closed their doors.

Smaller tires. 235/85 R16 Load Range G's (3,750#) @ 110 PSI Compared 265/75 R16's Load Range E's (3,415#) @ 80 PSI Or... Standard 235/85 R16 Load Range E's (3,042#) @ 80 PSI Food for thought.