Mopar1973Man

Makes it rather tough with no other clues to what it could be at this point. I don't have anything to really work from other than the RPM's vary downward. Might try a cam sensor but I don't even have anything giving a reason to replace it.

It would be best to just remove the turbo so you can remove the compressor housing and clean the entire compressor wheel and the rest of the compressor housing you can see. Remember that turbo is spin a very high rate of RPM's and its best to keep the compressor wheel clean and balanced. Compressor housing for HX35 is just a snap ring so its super easy to remove and clean right.

Typically sensors will throw a code if going out. Thinking out loud... Its kind of like sitting in neutral and have the engine loading up with excessive drag?

Typically the whole cleaning of sensors does nothing to fix issues or problems. If you don't own a exhaust brake then there is no reason to even worry. Only exhaust brake owner have to check or clean the sensors off. Like myself I'm purposely letting mine go to see if they can actually be fouled but so far neither the MAP or the IAT have problems still working just fine after 2 years of exhaust brake usage.

When batteries fail they don't have to fail with low volts but then can fail where they no longer have CCA ability to twist the engine over. As battery age they will continue to charge but the plate will degrade and amperage power will degrade. It's possible. I would have the batteries load tested.

Batteries you remove and test separately. Alternator you remove and test on test bench. Also use a DVM and check AC volts output must be (0.1 AC Volts or LESS) or... Main feed cables you use a DVM. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables As for fuel pressure... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

Test the alternator.Test the batteries.Voltage drop test the main cables.Might have to pull the starter and inspect the brushes and contacts.

Remember HID's usage as a after-market lighting can be illegal in some areas for that exact problem.

I'm so very close to that kind of lifestyle. There are homes out here that are without out power some have phone but thats it. Talking to the older folks around here they can tell the very same tales of building log cabin by hand and hauling you firewood home on a sled. Yeah... I live in the modern world but live right on the border of that. Thank you for the wonderful video and it was captivating...

I got smart and talked to a neighbor down the way from me and her son lives in Oregon and he picked up my 9mm ammo for cheap at WalMart. What weird is he said his WalMart has a good stock on ammo and rarely sold out.

Wow... Riggins ID is now down to 3.329 for unleaded but still 4.069 for diesel. Cummins is parked for now...

I could see the poor quality parts as being a answer but fuel... Hmmm... Doesn't the Edge filter in the connector tubes help in keeping debris out? I know ultimately yes good filter are the best answer but this rather a common thing I hear of injectors failing (cracking, blowing chunks out, etc.) Some of these failures from rail pressure booster modules that drive rail pressure up too.

:duh:Ahhh... So common of the Common Rails to eat injectors...

Becareful. The high idle is great for getting it warm be remember it does consume big quantity of fuel while running so weigh that into your thoughts. I've measured upwards of 6-8 GPH while running high idle 3 cylinder and exhaust brake. The 6-8 GPH is well above normal flows. Just for sake of reference at 55 MPH consuming 2.5 GPH is 22 MPG. (55 MPH / 2.5 GPH = 22 MPG). So yes it will warm up the truck for you but at a cost of more fuel used per day. No, you don't have to wait for the high idle to finish like I do is warm up to 100*F and cancel and leave.

Ugh... I just got gas for the 96 and its $3.499 for unleaded but $4.069 for diesel..

I kind of wondering if this could be warranty issue?

As for fuel pressure watch this video... No P0216 here...

IAT and ECT sensors run on the same ohm scale.[TABLE][TR][TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center]Temperature[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center] Resistance[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 13°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 56K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 26°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 39K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 87ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 7.4K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 91°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 6.8K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 100°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 5.6k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 107°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.7K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 112°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 119ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.6K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 123ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 127ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.0K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 132ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 2.7k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 143°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 148°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 163°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.5k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 173°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 184°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.0k ohms[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]Best way to test both is to use a live data tool and see what the ECM sees. Ohm values out in the open can be skewed by just handling the sensor with your hands your body heat will cause then to rise.P0216 just means the ECM commanding for advance timing and the pump is no longer capable of getting the advancement cam to move in a timely manner. POOF! P0216 code thrown. If the electronics on top (PSG) were bad you'd see a P1688 code most likely.Be careful of the cardboard with the hole in the center you keeping the fan clutch cool and unlocked so its possible to actual get to hot.

Yes. Like this... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing

Most likely the diodes are just cheap as you adding load to the electrical system the diodes start to heat up and fail. Just because the alternator was bought new doesn't mean its a quality unit either. I've seen reports of brand new alternators failing the AC test out of the box. I would have the alternator serviced at that alternator shop and have it done right. You might disconnect the alternator all together (field and alternator fuse) and test again with headlights on and see if the HIDs are generating the AC noise.

I know I'm reviving a old thread but I've updated the formula page with correct dual formula so people with dually rear axles can calculate proper pressures now. Show a demo of Formula vs. Table pressures from Michellin. Axle Weight: 4,850# on Single Tire Axle Single Tire Forumla: (Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Capacity weight x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure (4,850# / 2) = 2,425# / 3,042# = 0.79 x 80 PSI = 63.7 PSI Axle Weight: 8,820# On Duals Rear Axle Dual Rear Tires Formula: (Axle Weight / 2) / (Tire Capacity weight x 2) x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure (8,820 / 2) = 4,410# / (2778# x 2 = 5,556#) = 0.79 x 80 = 63.4 PSI Take note on duals tire axles you got to double the 2,778# rating of the tire and then divide your axle weight. But with both sets the pressure number is right there within 3 PSI of the tire pressure chart of Michellin.

Maybe a bit more information. * What's your fuel pressure like? (Idle and WOT at highway speed)* Any error codes?

So the oil filter did its job huh?

UV's is my though on that. The 1996 Dodge was left outside most of its life here and the paint that is exposed to direct UV's rays seems to be failing. Roof and top of hood. But the doors and fenders are fine and good condition.

Never had the pad on my truck but the 96 HAD it past tense. I yanked it all out for exactly what Flagmanruss just mention.