Mopar1973Man

First of WELCOME to MOPAR1973MAN.COM Yeap that is over kill... Let say the fill up was 25 gallons of fuel... So at 128:1 ratio should of been 25 ounces of oil (Heaviest mixture) And at 200:1 ratio should of been 16 ounces of oil (tyipcally where most 3rd gen get ther best...) And at 256:1 ration should of been 12.5 ounces of oil (lightest mixture) Here is the math for it... Convert gallons of fuel to ounces... 128 x (Gallons of fuel) = Ounces of fuel Ratio fo fuel to oil... 3,200 Ounces (Fuel) / 200 (Ratio) = 16 Ounces

Thread got old so the new write up is here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injectors/injectors.htm Yeap and even got pics... :thumbsup

Adding anthing thing to your fuel can be illegal...ATF, WEO/WMO, WVO, 2 cycle oil, gasoline, kerosene, JP8, Jet-A Etc... If its not Diesel it not legal... Yes if you are dipped you could be fine...But this is a risk I'm willing to take to protect my fuel system with a small dose of 2 cycle oil.But if there so willing to bust people boy I'm in a bad place... I'm sittinig here with my web site advertising my address and phone number... Come and get me! But after 3 years of being on the web and forums... Nothing has happened... The local cops even in truck know I do this... 8| I'm not worried... :D

ScanGauge II doesn't show the MAP sensor value correctly... It about 28.6 PSIA at idle and tops out at about 37.7 PSIA... Normal atomsphere should be 14.7 PSIA then 30 PSI of boost should be (30+14.7) which is 44.7 PSI. I'm current trying to find a alternate XGauge for that problem... P0236 - Map Sensor Too High Too Long Problem detected in turbocharger wastegate. Do you have a smoke switch? If so and leaving it on will cause this error... Do you have a enhancement box (Edge comp)? Unplugging the MAP sensor does the same thing as a smoke switch. By chance could you fill out you signature I could help you out better... ucp.php?i=profile&mode=signature

Ok here is some light on the subject... Here is what Eric at ATS had to say... Well this adds a change of heart for me... It not cool for a person to raid you email for information and publicly post information that could ruin your business...

Wow! We are having a heat wave today... 22*F LOL But in a couple days we'll be back down to -7*F... :mad Now as for the weather part... I just got done on the phone trying to get ITD (Idaho Transportation Dept) to come down and plow in front of the fire shed. Then just thinking about the cold... How in the hel to you keep a fire truck from freezing up while you travel to a fire? Passed it on to my Assistant Chief... No answer yet but since my mind was clickin' I got him think about calling the hot shot cre together and train us properly for cold weather fire fighting. The other problems is how do you stop a 40K pound fire truck on ice? (I know very carefully!) Then how do you drive one that is 2 wheel drive only and no chains??? (Make it more interesting!) But all of our 6 wheel drive militaries are to far for me and parked on top of a mountain currently (chained up!).Oh then some of our trucks rarely get used but what if the fuel tanks are filled with summer fuel at -7*F??? (Think it will gell? Good bet!) So there considering getting PS 911 and PS White bottle for these trucks. As I point out to him I've had good luck with winterized fuel and 2 cycle oil... But as for sumerized and 2 cycle oil I don't think will work! I got the higher heads thinking on this now... LOL

The orignal source of this leeter for me was from CF.com at... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/off-t ... s-epa.html Personally I think this is wrong... :nono

Well so far we are down to 0*F to 5*F above for low temps... Like yesterday we barely made it 14*F as a high... Man it sucks when you park a truck outside and the ice freezes to the hood and there not enough engine heat to thaw it out... :confused

Picture help... Take a look for some reason the pics are fine here...

I konw this is really common for newbie to panic to see the headlight dim and get bright again... So I wrote up a quick page for grid heater functions and this is totally normal! http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... heater.htm

I've seen several complaints of hard starting or slow cranking. Some of this is just the starter contacts have gone bad or the battery terminals are dirty. But after that you should look at the master cables that feed the starter. You got to remember that the starter on a cold winter morning is going to draw nearly 700 Amps to twist these big brutes over... But more about the testing here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... ircuit.htm

I konw there is everal people on here that have had problems with coolant system leaks, head gaskets, or heater cores. Most of these failures are caused from a acid or basic coolant. Even though the coolant is green doesn't mean that coolant is still good. Eventually the coolant starts becoming acid or basic and causes problems by eats the metal around it... Here is more on this subject... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... -flush.htm

Well gang... I got a write now for the CCD netwrok and how it operates. So for those of you that have the CCD error on your overhead console and weird problems with the ABS/Brake lights and maybe the gauge cluster I would day its a CCD network problem... So go here and read up... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

Either the TSB or Smarty programmer has to been used to enable the high idle software... Smarty being free and TSB could cost about $100-$120 bucks. PM Sent...

Thanks Dorkweed...I knew someone would have the answer to that... Like here in Idaho (Central Idaho) there is no BIO fuels at all... So it rather tough for me to do any testing of BIO diesel... But Thatnk you again for you knowledge on it... :thumbsup

Well if your to worried about it just pick up a bottle of PS 911 (Red Bottle)... Thats a safety net...

Harry... I've got a thread about my theory of 2 cycle oil and its effects... viewtopic.php?f=14&t=357 This is my theory I'm going to start testing here as soon as I get a block of dry ide to chill diesel fuel down to find out if the pour point of the fuel is effect by 2 cycle oil (positive or negative). But my personal opinion I think you going to be fine for the most part. Most all diesel fuel is winterized and should withstand the changes of the weather here in Idaho... http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.ph ... -116.33183 Like here shortly I'll be down to 4*F above for Tuesday night... (Brrr!)

Here is some information on fuel and 2 cycle oil here... (Just examples) Phillips 66 Injex 2 cycle oil... http://www.smallandsonsoil.com/index.php?x=PH_injex Pour point of -40*F Cennex Fuels... http://www.cenexenergy.com/default.asp? ... Path=0;0;5

Some high performance sled oils are down to -50*F or even lower... So it got to have a effect on the pour point of diesel fuel... Now the synthetic line of oil some are even as low or lower. But the problem with synthetics is they don't contain a PPD (pour point depressant). Being there made in a lab and there is no wax or parafin in the oil they have ZERO needs fo PPD so synthetic 2 cycle oil had ZERO effect on the pour point on diesel fuel...As for the other guys... All I ask of them is to bring proof to the table of what there saying over there but they ALWAYS come empty handed! :mad

Not a problem I'll be here... :thumbsup

Dang... LOL But I've got it functioning good now... Selectable 3 cylinder or High idle now... :thumbsup Switch 1 - ECT sensor fooler. Switch on will cause the ECM to see 123*F regardless of the current engine temp. Switch 2 - IAT sensor fooler - Switch on will cause the ECM to see either 13*F or 26*F regardless of the current manifold temp. Switch 3 - Selection of the IAT temp. either 13*F (3 cylinder) or 26*F (high idle)

Ok...Here is my theory of the anti-gel abilities of 2 cycle oil... Let me show a example here first. Let use water and saltwater as a example. So we all know that fresh water freezes at 32*F correct. Then salt water has a much lower freezing point. (Depending on how much salt is in the water) So now if you add 1 oz of saltwater to the fresh water you going to change the freezing point of the fresh water correct??? Of course....But now if we switch water with diesel fuel and salt water with snowmobile 2 cycle oil. Diesel fuel has a pour point of around -20*F here in Idaho typically. (From the specs I'm finding on the suppling sites). Then 2 cycle oil has a pour point of about -40*F typically. So if you adding 1 oz of 2 cycle oil to 1 gallon of diesel fuel you should have the same reaction right???Well more to come.. Soon as I get my hand on some dry ice I'm going to do this testing and post up the information for everyone...

Well so far the high idle mod is working flawless... I can enable the high idle at will and select the mode of operation I want.But here is a few things I did find out. In 3 cylinder high idle mode the back 3 cylinders are active and the front 3 cylinder are dead. So if you got a pyro probe in the front 3 cylinder you'll never know how hot it really getting. Like myself mine is mounted in the rear manifold. But to give you all a clue you can grab the front half of the exhaust manifold and it just bare warm to the touch. But the back half could be close to 900*F depending on type of operation...If anyone needs one built let me know I will assemble it for you... :thumbsup

Wow! That's a nice horse there Flagman... sad to hear you lost him... ` Nice truck thou... Looks like you pull a good load behind it... :thumbsup

Just like my fuel tank it was spotless inside till I drilled the hole for the drawstraw... I've got both the stock filter and the AD 150 filters... Funny part is the factory filter is still clean after 10K miles now... So why would I need a injecotr cleaner if the fuel is clean???