Mopar1973Man

Here check out a few dealer I've got listed... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm Then here is how to replace it... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-replace.htm I'm one of the lucky few... I've been using 2 cycle oil and now going to clear 100K miles on my VP44...

Not to bad... About 4-5 PSI drop bout holding 15 at WOT is really good... :thumbsup

I had one morning of 13*F above zero. The ol' Cummins was very happy about waking up at 13*F but on the 3rd try she fired up and smoothed out in a matter of a few seconds... :thumbsup

Can I ask what kind of pressure range are you seeing??? :confused:

Yeap... The VP44 is running down death row... P0216 -error code is a wear error. It cause from lack of fuel pressure. What has happen is the advancement piston is wearing out and is starting to bind up and not advance timing as needed. So white smoke, hard starting will start occuring. Your MPG's will start to slide. It not going to get better... Sorry... You might want to read over this... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=1 http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm then... It might help... :confused: But it won't fix it... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/2-cycle-oil.htm

Hmmm... I wish here... Diesel - $2.289Gas - $1.979Close but no cigar... `

About a $170 if I remember right... And replacement filter are in your bathroom... (Toilet paper!) LOL http://www.wefilterit.com 2422 12th Avenue Rd. #148 Nampa, ID 83686-6300 1-208-467-3726 Office Hours: Monday-Friday 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (Mountain Time Zone) Deborah Walker Harley President E-Mail Address DWalkerHarley@WeFilterIt.com

I update my APPS sensor page to include a waning about voltage adjustment. There is a lot of people saying to adjust the voltage. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm

Well being gold is near $1,000 a ounce it would take much I don't think... :confused:

Well here is where I normally start out with... Error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Fuel pressure... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/lift-pump-diag/lift-pump-diag.htm Fuel pressure should be above 10 PSI at all times. As for dead pedal problems there is only 2 causes of it. * Dead or dieing APPS sensor. Typically the P0121, P0122, or P0123 is present. APPS sensors will alway throw a code if the the true cause. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm * Dead or Dieing VP44. Typically a VP44 will NOT throw codes to a dead pedal problem but if it does it could be P1688, P0216, or a few others...

Here is something to make you want to pick up pennys of the sidewalk... 8| :wow 8| :wow http://www.kokogiak.com/megapenny/

We all hewre the Gov't talking about Millions, billions, and even trillions of dollars well here is what it look like... 8| :wow 8| :wow http://www.pagetutor.com/trillion/index.html

It total different depending on the IAT temp sensed at the manifold. The colder it is in the manifold the longer the grid heater will stay on. So there is no set time for how long they run. The IAT sensor will deside if the grid heater are needed because of low manifold temps. Like if I fire mine up on a cold morning I notice the if it idles the grid heater stay off more. But give it some throttle and grid heater are popping on and off more often. But to reverse this turn my exhaust brake on and the grid heater will nearly stay off.

What is your current fuel pressure??? There is the SPECS for the 3rd Gen CR engine... Knocks and rattles could be caused by air leaks, low fuel pressures, etc... :confused: Any error codes??? :confused:

Typically its the speed sensors. There is 2 sensors in the front axle and 1 in the rear axle. If you speedometer is working normally I bet money its one of the front axle sensors. Remember the speed shown by the sensors MUST all match at highway speeds. So if a sensor is lazy to respond and remains at 0 while the rest come up then the ABS and BRAKE likes will be tripped because of a speed sensor error. You might have error codes too... As for the brake fluid if the fluid is dark in the resevoir you must flush the system. You might have to dis-assemble the calipers and wheel cylinder to remove the debris and water in the bottom of the cylinders. Remember the bled screw are on top and the water debris settle ot the bottom of the cylinders. No wonder the always rust on the bottom... Bad news... Wasted brake fluid... Normal brake fluid...

Fuel presure and error codes would tell if it is... :confused: Fule pressure... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/lift-pump-diag/lift-pump-diag.htm Error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Gauges are so much better... :D http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

You can find it in the Dodge FSM books... The 2001 book will work for 98.5 to 2002 trucks... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=2 (3) Lightly lubricate head bolts with engine oil and install. Using the sequence shown in (Fig. 30), tighten bolts in the following steps: (a) Torque bolts to 80 N·m (59 ft. lbs.) (b) Torque bolts to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs.) © Re-check all bolts to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs.) (d) Tighten all bolts an additional ¼ turn (90°)

Here is the secret... NOTICE: Your required to obtain a username and password from Mopar1973Man himself. You may contact him in the forum with a personal message on the forum. NOTICE: Your forum username and password will NOT work here. PM Sent...

Well I hate to say it but I don't thinkg you got everything out of it. Did you open up the PTO cover and mop up the left over fluid looking for debris???

As for the Hi/LO trick you can buy the Brite Box or do the wiring mod yourself. I think it over at CumminsForum.com. Well at least the aircraft light are 12V and plentful at a local NAPA store... ;)

Restrictive??? LOL The stock resinator is nothing but a straight pipe thought a muffler can packed with fiberglass. The pipe inside the can has holes drilled in the face of the pipe. As for noise... Truely they are not to bad as long as you keep your foot out of the carpet. But sounds awesome in a tunnel or under a bridge at WOT... LOL

Some people have all the luck... I'm looking at the point that I can't see having grid heaters for a mild morning the truc kfires up easy without grid heaters. Also the draw on the batteries has to be recharged. Being I'm traveling less and less I might was well find ways of preserving my batteries...

Here is my thought on this... Coolant is not forever. A lot of people open the cap and see green, orange, or yellow coolant and then think "Oh! it still good because its not rusty!" This is WRONG! Coolant will turn to a acid or base over time. During this time it start to eat the metals of the cooling system (Radiator, heater core, freeze plugs, head gasket, etc). Now when you see the rust color its too late because it been acid for a long time now. Coolant flushed are required at 30K miles regardless of the color of the coolant. So As for you leak I better you got some trash floating in the system and it plugged the hole in the freeze plug for the moment. I would still flush the system and inspect it. Because when summer gets here and the temps get hot it will blow that plug (debris) out. Or the other possiblity is that the coolant pressure didn't get high enough to spray out. (cooler day) 5 Years and 100K miles later I got now rust, lime scale, or any kind of coolant system problems. It all about change your coolant thats all! So flush the system out completely and get the hole to open up so you can find it. The I would use a punch and twist the freeze plug in its hole or use a slide hammer with a screw on the end. Remove the freeze plug and replace it.

Too bad the ecnomy is shot to hell I would love to fix up the ol' Charger get fresh paint job and pull the engine to just inspect it again. That car was so sweet to drive. That thing had grunt from hell. Tall gears and with automatic in just flew. 0-40 in first gear40-90 In second gear90-145 in drive... Yes... I did find my way to 145 MPH in the Nevada desert... 8| I got to admit she was no light weight when it came to movement! :D

Then there is the other style is you'll find a slot above or below the connector. If you look inside the notch you'll see a tab holding the connector in place. I normally using either a flatten piece of bailing wire or a jewelers flat blade screwdriver (small). (Typical blade connectors) Another I've see is a look closely and find there is a removable piece of plastic that will expose the locks. Just light lift the proper lock with a small jeweler screwdriver and remove. (fuel tank sender) But typically most all connectors have a locking mechism to it. Just take your time and study the connector... Another thought is if your looking for a removal tool you might try "CaspersElectronics.Com" and see if they happen to have a tool to meet your needs. :confused: http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/