Mopar1973Man

As for the additive lubricity... I got a email from PS saying that they did a test with some poorly treated fuel (above 520 HFRR) and PS was able to bring it back close to the 520 HFRR. That's where they make there claim. But still its never reduced below the 520 HFRR mark. Then for dirty injectors it might clean it up enough to make a improvement. As for myself I've ran PS for 50K miles with no improvement at all in MPG or HP/TQ. Also I contribute the fact of PS having solvents in the product to my failure of my first LP pump and VP44 at 50K miles. I'm currently at 109K miles and no problem with fuel pressure, IP/LP pumps at all. As for testing 2 cycle oil. Duluth Diesel is currently running AMSOil interceptor 2 cycle oil (Synthetic). I'm running Supertech Outboard 2 cycle oil (Dino version). I started running in back at 85K miles. If there was a problem with running 2 cycle oil I would of started to lose MPG and HP/TQ numbers as the deposits start to grow on the crown of the pistons and the tips of the injectors. But I'm still holding great MPG (19-20) and HP/TQ (381/826) numbers as of currently... At least for Cummins we are allowed up to 5% of WEO (Waste Engine Oil) to be dumped back into the fuel. So that is 35 Gallons for our fuel tanks at 5% that is a whooping 1.75 Gallons of WEO you can dump into the fuel. But I don't approve of the WEO because of the amount of metals and soot you'll be pumping back through the fuel system... Not good. So Dorkweed on CumminForum.Com figure out the 2 cycle oil is ashless. And its better that 30W engine oil which has ASH and WILL create deposits on the injectors. Not to mention engine oil wasn't truely meant to be burned. But 2 cycle oil was meant to be burned and used a a lubricant! Regardless of the type of fuel what I was worried about was flash point / auto ignition temps of mixed 2 cycle oil / diesel still going to burn hot enough... YES! My pyro still will get over the 1,200*F mark without a problem. Since 2 cycle oil has a flash point of 200-210*F it burns completely off at a idle in my truck idle at about 250-350*F on the pyro. As for using WEO Cummins has been doing it for a long time now... https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/qso ... inel.print And here is my search on Centinel... http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=& ... tnG=Search As as for Cummins using oil in the fuel... It's prefectly OK!!! REMEMBER!!! if there is any kind of build on the injectors my MPG will show it by falling... :shock: I got another one for you to think about... Ok next time you pull fuel filter pull the filter out and keep it. Now take a small bucket and try washing some of the material of it in diesel fuel. Now that you got a sample of dirt... Now add you favorite injector cleaner to the diesel fuel. (In Correct ratio closely as possible). Mix well and let it sit... Continue to mix and sit... for a few days... And then tell me if the debis is gone or not... Mostly like not. If a product was strong enough to clean injectors that are dirty fuel plugged it would most likely clean the fuel filter too... But it don't... That why most people are going to better filter systems to protect the injectors. Now if its deposit plugged injectors that normally cause by running low pyro temps and driving shorts distance. The harden deposit is most likely not going to dissolve in and kind of cleaner. Just looking at some of the nasty spark plugs (gasoline engines - deposits are just about the same) I've seen in my day there isn't a chemical strong enough to clean it.

You might want to check out the BTU's thread then.... viewtopic.php?f=14&t=18

Thanks...With everything going on I've not to much time to really work on the site... but its a coming... :D

Really simple... If you look in the middle of each panel you'll see a bolt (5/16" x 1 1/2") with a body wash on the back side tied down by a nyloc nut (5/16") They are slighly bowed so when you mount them up it will pull the bow inwards to keep them tight against the grill. They can't be pryed out and stolen...

How do I keep my engine clean??? Easy... Everytime I wash the outside of the truck I wash the engine too. If I get a leak or weeping gasket it shows up quickly. So fix the problem then wash it back down. If you spill oil on it wash it off when you get home, Etc... But basically anytime I wash the exterior of the truck the engine gets washed too... Summer or winter... I also wash under the truck too... :shock: Even shops and dealers ask me about that... But the best part is if I do go to a shop they have to do good clean work because the engine was clean before it went in... I want it clean when it come out and remain clean! :shock:

Yes... As a matter of fact I've got to yank it up and off soon to keep the web spiders from finding it... :o

First off... 1 quart = 32 ounces 1 pint = 16 ounces Mix ratio 128:1. (You need 1 oz of oil for every 1 gallon of diesel fuel pumped into the tank.) So you need 24 ounces of oil to hold the 128:1 ratio. But since you added 32 ounces of oil you ratio is now 96:1 ratio which is getting a bit thick. That also why I figured out the ratio because a lot of people just add a quart to 6 gallons, 12 gallons, etc... Which make it too thick everytime. Then what happen is the MPG falls hard (12-15 MPG).

Still converting pages in my spare time it will be posted soon...

Everything up to 2007 is fine...

Actually... that why the ratio of 128:1 was delvoped. It was to increase the lubricity of the fuel thats all but the increased MPG was a bonus. But the reason behind the MPG is the fact that the 2 cycle oil has more BTU's over any other product on the market (excluding #2 diesel). It would a good idea to talk to Duluth Diesel about the AMSOil Synthetic line for 2 cycle oil. He the fore runner for testing the AMSOil line... :D

UPDATE! - August 22, 2007 - Relationship between HFRR, Cetane, BTU's, and MPG's Just something to think about... I was thinking about the 3 common fuel additives. 2 of them are paint thinners right??? Well its like saying you got a 1 gallon can of paint and dumping a small ratio of mineral spirits and/or xylene to it. Now even with paint (oil based) the paint thinners thin it out rapidly for a small ratio. Well that what its doing for you fuel. The paint is very similar in way to you diesel fuel. It's much thicker (cSt's) compared to the additive. Now after you add the additive it thins out the fuel fuel more (reducing the cSt's or increasing the HFRR value). At the same time its reducing the BTU's of the fuel. So fuel additives are working against you by creating more wear on internal parts (LP/IP pumps and injectors) and reducing the BTU's of the fuel. Everyone KNOWS that every winter that you MPG's will fall. This because the cetane of the fuel is raised to keep the pour point down and keep it easy starting for cold starting. When you raise the cetane level of the fuel to 45-47 (or higher) cetane your reducing the fuel BTU's so the fuel does less work and so the MPG's fall. This also mean you buy more fuel... :o So if you looking to increase you MPG you NEED a lower cetane fuel like 40-43 cetane. The lower the cetane the better for MPG's. As over in my BTU's Values you notice that 3 chemicals have extremely low BTU's values compared to diesel. These additives will quickly reduce the BTU's value of the diesel fuel. But when you look back at 2 cycle oil its got nearly the same value as #1 diesel. So there is very little loss if any. But you've increase the lubricity of the fuel greatly compared to a fuel additive. Like right now Chevron's Diesel fuel are relatively high for cetane. (43-47 Cetane) http://www.cpchem.com/enu/tds_unsecured ... ummary.pdf

I got to bring all my fellow 2 cycle oil members to a safe place to discuss there finding...

Thank Dr. Evil... Welcome to my little 3.5 Ghz AMD computer with 1.0 GB of RAM and 750 GB of storage. :o PM coming to you...

This procedure is for rear disc brake trucks. First block the front tires so the truck can't roll. Then jack up the rear axle of the truck till the tires are off the ground. Use jack stand under the rear axle. Don't set the brake! SAFETY FIRST! Now crawl under truck. The pic shown here is the driver side axle hub. There will be a notch in the bracket and in the notch is a rubber plug. You'll need a pair of needle nose pliers to reach in and pull the plug out. Now take a flashlight and look in the notch and you'll see a star wheel. You need to use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the star wheel. Check the wheel for drag by turning. If the shoes start to drag back it off a click or two. Then double check to see if it dragging again. Now do the other side the same way. Replace the rubber plugs. Now your done. UPDATED - November 24, 2006 Which direction to turn the star wheel to tighten? That's a simple answer. In the picture above you would want to be turning the star wheel upwards away from the axle to tighten the brakes up. so basically this holds true for both sides. So the passenger side you would want to turn it down and away from the axle. If you reverse this you'll loosen the shoes up. Remember to check for rolling slack they shouldn't drag at all!

Well Chuck... How is the AMSOil Synthetics working for you? I've got lots of people asking about using synthetic 2 cycle oil in the fuels but I was uncertain of the results you've gotten so far. So I'll let you continue this thread for the others... But I'm curious myself of the results you got so far! 8-)

It is suggested to be done at 135K miles which I think is too far down the road. Mine where out of adjustment a bit at 92K miles. So this is how I did my valve adjustment on my truck. Valve adjustment is fairly simple to do and does require much for tools. You need a feeler gauge set (0.010 and 0.020), 9/16" box wrench, 10mm short socket, 15/16" socket, both 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets, Allen wrench and a mirror. The first thing you need to do is pull the valve cover off the engine. You'll need a 10mm short socket and a 3/8" ratchet. Loosen all the bolt till you can lift the bolt up. Don't bother removing the bolts from the valve cover. Once you got that the valve cover will come off on the passenger side. You got to slide it towards the turbo and work it over the top of the heater hose. Take your time is will go... Now you got to remove the breather cover on the gear cover. It just twist off. Once this is removed you won't be able to see the gear unless you use a mirror. Now you need to use your 1/2" ratchet and the 15/16" socket to rotate the alternator. You want to turn it towards the passenger side (or towards coolant bottle). You want to get the gear to be in the TDC (Top Dead Center) like in the picture above. Now you'll start adjusting valves. But you can adjust all of them right now. Intake valves 1, 2, 4 and Exhaust valves 1, 3, 5 which I've circled for you. Using a feeler gauge you want to adjust all intake valves to 0.010" gap and all exhaust valves to 0.020" gap. You'll be inserting the feeler gauge like shown. This is the part you got to take your time on. As you'll notice as you tighten up your adjustment screw the feeler gauges seems to be pinched in-between but try to hold the feeler gauge flat you'll notice it get loose again. So take your time... Now when you get ready to tighten the lock nut finger spin it tight. Then as you tighten the nut you go to hold the adjustment screw still. But if you notice your gap is loose twist both nut and screw tighten a little bit. Or twist the adjustment screw loosen as you tighten the nut. This will increase or decrease the gap a little but not much. Now that you done this set now you go to do the other half of the valves. So now twist the alternator some more till you see (BDC -Bottom Dead Center) for the VP44 pump gear. Now adjust the the rest of the valves. Intakes 3, 5, 6 and Exhaust 2, 4, 6. They are marked in the picture below. Double check all the jam nuts that they are TIGHT! You now have completed a valve adjustment on you engine. Now you got to reassemble the valve cover. Replace the gasket if it damaged. Then remount the breather cover on the gear case and hook up the vent tube. You'll hear a slight difference when you start the truck up. It going to be a bit quieter. Let it idle a bit and double check your valve cover for leaks.

Basically my winter front is a old road sign cut up to fit the opening in the grill. (Thank you! Kelly Hinkley - "The Metal Shop" Riggins, Idaho) I've seen several other ideas including, stainless steel, plexiglass, lexan, and several other materials. But the principal is simple. Keep the cold air from blowing across the radiator and engine. This will aid in engine warm up times and fuel mileage. Remember the cold air will extend the warm up times hence this will cause more fuel to be consumed till the engine is completely warmed up. (Roughly 160-190°F) I've seen about 5-10 miles before I got full engine temperature without the winter front. Now with the winter front its less than 3 miles to get full engine temperature. Excessive cold air for air intake will actually degrade performance. So with the winter front in place it will trap more warm air under the hood for engine use. Compression engines (diesel) require compression of air to make heat to fire the fuel. When the air get cold enough it will start to degrade the performance and fuel economy. As for overheating... Not likely. As long as the fan is in place with the winter front the fan will engage to help cool the engine down if the temperature was to rise from extra load or steep grade. Updated - November 24, 2006 I'm seeing people that are putting a piece of cardboard in front of the coolers and radiators or putting it between the radiator and the coolers. Most people put a good size hole in the middle and insert it... This is WRONG! DON'T DO IT! Why is cardboard inserted wrong??? Well when you put a piece of cardboard against radiator or coolers your block air flow completely all the time. Then when you cut a hole in the middle of the cardboard your blowing cold air on the fan clutch keeping it unlocked always... If the fan clutch did lock it couldn't cool the engine down you got cardboard block the flow of air. Remember also there is a lot of air pushing against this and will plug the face of the radiator/coolers with what ever material you use! The only air flow is going to be at the center where the hole is at... So now you got a overheat problem possibly with both coolant and exhaust temperatures. So why is the winter front CORRECT?? Because the winter front block the cold in coming air but it leave a gap between the grill and the coolers. So now if the fan should happen to lock it can pull full flow of air through it to cool not only the radiator but the intercooler too!

Another simple enhancement that don't cost a bunch of money is straight pipe the exhaust. Beware in some states it is illegal to be without a muffler. Now in some states a turbo is considered a muffling device. Some people think it just to loud. I will admit that without the muffler in place is it louder. I've been told that my truck can be heard up to a mile away. Now besides the noise and legal stuff. The bonus to straight piping the exhaust is that the engine can breathe easier. It will reduce the pyrometer temperature, increase horsepower and torque, and increase your fuel milage. Basically all you need to do is measure how long the full muffler assembly is and get a piece of 3" exhaust pipe and maybe a new set of clamps. Once you got the pipe have them expand the ends so they will fit over the existing pipe. So now when you do this you going to have to fight a little to get the old muffler and resonator off. I used a torch to heat the clamp spots up to get the muffler assemble off. Then slide in your new pipe and clamp it down. I've welded in some re-bar hanger to mount back in the rubber hanger on the frame to help hold the pipe up. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/muffler-delete/muffler-delete.htm

Well I added driving lights as a matter of fact 4 driving lights. I'm using 100 watt aircraft landing lights mounted in rubber tractor buckets. The reason for going to this is fairly simple. I've purchased several driving/fog lights. The biggest problem is the lens in normally made from glass. Well out here in Idaho most of the road are gravel or they use gravel on the highways for traction in the winter time. A good set of driving light would barely last a season before the lens was blown out by a rock. With the aircraft light the bulb is a sealed beam so the bulb and lens is on in the same. They are extremely bright and came light up as far as 1/4 mile down the road in front of you. The new system I've designed has a few safety features built into the fog lamp kit. The fog lamps follow the setting that the main headlights are on. So if you select high beams the fog lamps will follow and go to high beam mode. If you select low beams the fog lamps will follow by going to low beam mode. You never have to worry about blinding some one with this system. If you go from headlight to parking lamps the fog lamps are forced to low beam mode regardless of the pervious head light mode. But if you use the dimmer switch to wink the high beam the fog lamps will follow. But will return to low beam mode when released. When the headlights are turned off the fog lamps are forced off as well. You don't have to worry about shutting down a second switch. My kit also includes a bypass shutdown switch too. This allows you to run only your stock headlights without the fog lamps. The kit requires tapping a few signal wires. But the lights are completely supplied by there own fuse from the battery. This will not put any extra load on you headlight circuit. The kit requires a signal from the trailer relay and a signal from the fog lamp relay. That's it! This kit uses 100W bulbs so its some states this might be illegal to use on highway purpose. Check with local laws first before using. Contact me for information on ordering a fog lamp kit.

This is probably the most used piece of equipment on my truck. I use the exhaust brake to do about 80% of all my braking on the highway, city streets, and off-road. My brake shoe are still factory shoes and I've got over 102K+ on the clock. The shoes have got 50% left. It's a vast savings to the brakes. Sorry to say it doesn't exactly has the diesel rumble when you use this style of exhaust brake. But you do get a hissing noise from the exhaust pipe. There is a bonus to the exhaust brake. You can active it on a cold winter morning and get the pyrometer well above 350°F within a few seconds after starting it in the morning. I purchased the Jacobs Brake from a Dodge Dealer in Lewiston, Idaho for $800.00 http://www.dodgeparts.com - Type in the search words "Exhaust Brake"

Well here we go. The edge Comp is installed with a TST injection pump plate. Lot of people are wondering how hard it is to install. I hate to say it but it's extremely simple. I think the biggest thing is installing the TST plate. First off...Disconnect you batteries! - Negative cables. I got smart and started with the BD Stealth Plate installation. Which is basically loosen the clamps (2 - 7/16" nuts) on the air tube on the drive side and move it aside. Remember to stick a rag in both holes. Then remove the APPS off the engine (3 - 13mm bolts). Now you got a good view of the top of the VP44 pump. So now you take the supplied tamper-proof torx bit and a nut driver and remove all 5 bolts out of the VP44 cover plate. Save you old plate! DON'T THROW IT AWAY! Now you take you TST plate and install it in place of the old plate. Once you got the TST plate mounted snug all the bolts gently. Now take the supplied allen screw and thread it in the tapped hole with your fingers till it stops. Now get out a test light or a DVM. I used a DVM. Hook up the batteries and turn the ignition ON. Ground your test light or DVM lead and touch the allen screw with the positive lead. Now tighten the allen screw till you get 12V or a bright light. Then turn a extra 1/2 turn. Now disconnect you batteries again. Now strip the wire and crimp on the supplied ends (ring terminal and blade terminal). Put the ring terminal on the allen screw and using the supplied nut tighten down the nut snug! No more than snug though. Don't want to strip the threads in the plastic. Now assemble the APPS on the engine and the air tube. So when your done it should look like... So now we get to install the Edge COMP. Look back at the firewall where the main bulkhead goes throw. Cut a 3/4" slice in the rubber boot and slip the Edge Comp plug through the hole. Pull the harness through enough to get the RED wire inside. Route the read wire over to the fuse panel. Open up the fuse panel and pull fuse #17. Take the supplied fuse terminal and slip it over the leg of the fuse and reinstall the fuse. It will be difficult to install so use a blunt object to push it a little. Now route the MAP sensor plugs over towards the MAP sensor. And hook it up. Look down by the ECU and you find the CAN-BUS connector down there. Route its cable down there and hook it up. Now there is a another lead. It's got the grey wire (Pump lead) and the Black wire (Ground). Take the leads in one hand and using the other side the covering down away from the ends. This will give you extra wire to reach the battery for ground. Now you can hook up both black to ground post of the battery and the grey wire to the red wire on the TST plate. Now route the main connector to the steering column or the knee bolster. Use the supplied velcro to attach the Edge Comp to either. Now go out to the turbo and cut the clamp off the wastegate hose on the turbo side. Now unscrew the elbow out of the turbo. Now install the supplied elbow which looks like the same thing but it got a small hole in it. Use the supplied hose clamp and reinstall the wastegate hose. At this point double check all your wiring and plumbing. If its good hook up your battery. Turn on the ignition key. At this point you should see lights on the Edge Comp. Fire up the engine. At this point you should be done. It took me a little over 1.5 hours to install. Settings... From what I understand when your setting you power levels you got the main number (1-5) and the sub level (1-5). To set the sub-level press the power switch and hold for a few seconds and release. The LED bars will be flashing rapidly. Now you can adjust the sub-level. Main number controls the maximum fuel rate. This it the amount of total fuel at WOT that will be used. Higher the number the more fuel at WOT. Main Level Horse Power 1 40 2 60 3 80 4 100 5 120 The sub number is how quick it will get to maximum fuel rate by boost pressure. Higher the number the less boost required to get to full fuel rate. This also might create black smoke during acceleration. Sub Level Fuel Rate 1 33% of Fuel is supplied until 20 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 2 50% of Fuel is supplied until 15 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 3 67% of Fuel is supplied until 10 PSI of Boost then 100% is supplied 4 adds less fuel than Sub-level 5 5 adds the most fuel at low boost Tricks... Pull you plug off the MAP sensor on the engine. This will cause the Edge Comp to supply full fuel regardless of boost pressure. This will produce some nice black clouds on 5x5. But it does have a side effect it will throw a error code P0236 - MAP Sensor Too High Too Long. Remember anytime you see black smoke it is un-burnt fuel. So if you after fuel mileage tune it down a bit. If you after power turn it up and watch the black cloud roll!

There is several ways of getting a boost gauge hooked up. I took the easiest way. I got a 3/4" to 1/2" steel bushing. Then used a 1/2" to 1/8" brass bushing. There is a pipe plug right next to the fuel filter. There is several stories about how to do you pyrometer probe. I'm going to explain my method. I center punched the manifold on the rear port where I wanted to drill my hole. I greased my drill bit and drilled slowly with a shop vacuum next to the bit. After drilling I used both a magnetic screwdriver and a Q-tip to pick up any metal chips. Then I greased my tap and tapped my hole. I checked the manifold again in the same way as above. Then install your probe as directed by the manufacture. Fuel pressure gauge was installed using a tapped banjo bolt. As you can see in the lower picture this is the hardware I used to plumb the fuel pressure gauge. There is NO ISOLATOR in my system. But I do have a needle valve to shutdown the fuel flow if a leak occurs. Needle valve $8.00 at NAPA Weatherhead (WH6820) If you get the Cummins Campaign Pump you will get a free banjo bolt... UPDATED! Since I upgraded my fuel lines to Vulcan Big Line Kit. The kit comes with a 1/8" NPT port for tapping for a test port or fuel pressure gauge. In this picture you see the needle valve and pressure switch for a low pressure light. You might be asking what did I pay for my gauges. I paid $309.00 for the 3 gauges, the a-pillar pod, and a can of grey paint. I purchased it through. Diesel Performance Parts Inc. As for the needle valve I got that at my local NAPA store for $8.00. The part number is a Weatherhead part (WH6820) As For the nylon tubing. I got that at my local autozone store for $10.00 a set. Just look for oil pressure gauge plumbing kits. Low pressure switch and tapped banjo bolt came with my Carter Campaign pump. (4090046) $50.00 Boost gauge connection is going to require a bushing 3/4" NPT to 1/2" NPT also a brass bushing 1/2" NPT to 1/8" NPT. The steel bushing I got at my local hardware store for $2.29 and the brass bushing I pulled from the oil pressure plumbing kit. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm

Problems with the stock breather... This is a home-brew fix to a problem on the 2nd Gen Cummins engines. The problem is the OEM crankcase vent is nothing more than a piece of hose mounted to the front of the gear case that elbows over and points down towards the ground. There is two versions of this. One is with a drip bottle mounted on the end of the hose and the other is without the bottle. In any case there is a TSB (09-002-02 Crankcase Breather Overflow) warning on extreme loss of oil from descending to steep of a slope while off-roading. This is true but it will also scatter oil all over the engine and radiator. This cause a second problem of overheat from dust and dirt collecting in the face of the radiator. Even in normal use cases the breather bottle has been known to emit enough oil vapors to make the radiator gunky with dirt and dust. Another problem that a TSB 09-02-00 (A Heavy Oil Or Fuel-Like Odor Coming From the Diesel Engine Compartment) was written for was the foul heavy oil smell after a oil change. This is normal for some brand of oils like Rotella. Now that I listed all the problems with the breather bottle now let look at what I've fixed... What I've Fixed! First off I've never lost any oil off-roading with my design. Why? Simple. I look at a simple principal. If the front of the truck is going down hill the vent pipe end should be higher than the oil level at any angle. So how did I do that? Simple run the pipe up over the top of the engine and down over the back side of the engine. So now no matter how steep you run the nose down hill the end of the vent pipe will be higher. Since the end of the pipe is down under the truck by the transmission there is no problem with cooling or radiator plugging any longer. Also you will no longer get the heavy oil smell in the cab since the pipe is under the truck. You might smell it a little as you open the door but rare. Some people have use rubber hose to do this too. Well rubber heater hose will eventually break down and collapse. This is a problem! It will cause a build up of crankcase pressure and start oil leakage around seals. Another problem with other home brew systems... If you make the vent pipe to long you might start freezing the water vapor in the hose/pipe before it exits the pipe. Once again this causes problems with crankcase pressure. My system has no where for the oil/water to pool to freeze or plug the pipe. I've tested down to -20°F and never had a freeze up yet. Contact me for information on ordering a crankcase vent kit. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/crankcase-vent.htm

Carter Campaign Pump 4090046 Cummins Part Number $63.00 Dodge OEM Pump BSAAL6429X Mopar Part Number $209.00 Napa OEM Pump NFPP74213 Napa Part Number $179.99 Carter Fuel Pump (Generic) P4601HP $99.50 Carter Campaign Lift Pump This is a redesigned lift pump for the Cummins engines. From what I heard it was design for the Buses more than anything. But I found that the Campaign pump is exactly identical as the Dodge OEM pump that was supplied at manufacture. Just much cheaper in price! UPDATE - November 24, 2006 The campaign pump is doing fair with a stock engine configuration. My fuel pressure have slid a bit and now it idles at 13.5 PSI, Cruise at 12.5 PSI, and WOT 11.0 PSI. It's starting to get marginal. It might get even worse with the addition of the Edge COMP that is coming soon. Update - December 25, 2006 I have been notified by Cummins in Boise ID that the Campaign pump is no longer available. If you attempt to order 4090046 you find that the price jumped from $65 to $202. So it time to research the next new pump for replacement. Dodge OEM Lift Pump The OEM lift pump that Dodge use to supply for replacement is no longer. They now are converting over to a in-tank fuel pump. Basically the module has the pick up screen, fuel sender, and lift pump as a package. The problem is the pump is weaker in pressure compared to the old version and requires you to lift the bed of the truck to replace. In other words if you have a lift pump problem now your going to be stuck on the side of the road. Carter Fuel Pump - P4601HP I got one of these from Summit Racing. What I found out is the fuel pressure is much weaker. I got roughly 8 PSI at idle and 4-5 PSI at WOT. The other problem is the fuel fittings are 3/8" NPT. So it can not be used a replacement pump. The electrical connections are for ring terminals. So once again it will not work on the truck unless to change your plumbing and electrical connection. But why bother when the pressure is to low to use... Fuel System Pressures - UPDATE! I'm hearing a lot of people saying that it's OK to let it slide down below 10 PSI... Cummins set the pressure limit for a reason. This reason includes proper cooling and lubrication of the fuel system components under extreme loads (WOT). I highly suggest you stick the recommended pressure listing. You cannot have any fuel volume without pressure! Something has to PUSH it! http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/campaign-pump/campiagn-pump.htm

Well I'm glad to see you come over and see whats up...I'm still in the clean up state but I'm getting it fired up... This is completely hosted from my home computer... So it make it easy for me to work on the web site...