Mopar1973Man

Between changing my tires back to stock Michellins (265/75 R16) and adding the AirDog 150 I've now bumped my MPG from 18-19 to... Not bad at all... It even got more power (seat -o- pant dyno)... I should of check with my ScanGauge II but I forgot to... (D'Oh!) :rolleyes

My question is how do you remove the drum without special tooling... Back the shoe adjustment and it should slide off... If the drum should get tighter (or won't move) you know you going the wrong way... Last trick... Jack up the truck and put it on block in the rear and block the front axle from roling good... Then pull the tires off. Then take the lug nuts and thread them back on. Not tight mind you... Then start the truck and put in to a forward gear. Get a bit of speed and then mash on the brakes... The rear drums should pop loose. But the lugs will keep it from flying... I don't like this method but it does work if done right... Becareful!

Use a BIG 3 jaw puller and then whacked it with a BFH. They were stuck on very tight. I don't know a better way than that. Hopefully with replacing the joints with greasable ones they won't need replaced for a long time. Or... Loosen the 4 bolts the thread a couple in part way and put and socket and extention on them and turn the wheel left or right and jam the extention into the axle and it should push them out......do each side a bit at a time and be sure to anti sieze the hub when replacing

Well I would like to personally thank GOS Performance for providing me with a quality product. It took me a little over 3 hours to get it all installed to my specs that I wanted. I did some changes during my install to hopefully protect the pump and filter from damages this summer when I'm out cutting firewood. The when the box showed up from the "Brown Man" I was kind of shock to see how big the box was. I didn't relize that is came with all new fuel ine, fittings, electrical, etc. Right On! Instructions are really easy to understand. Once I got the pump all hooked up I was expecting this loud pump to buzz on the frame below. I turned the key and didn't hear nothing! UH OH! So I bumped the starter and listened. Wow! It really quiet running pump... Got it fire up (without priming!) and I was seeing 17-18 PSI Wow! This truck has never seen over 14-15 PSI in its life till now! Even stomped on the throttle I never got below 15 PSI. I know why too. I still got to put in the draw straw kit. I scarficed my old Vulcan Big Line Kit to make a pickup line temporary till I get back from my trip I got to make next week... I'm going to head out and grab my camera from the shop and post a few pics... Well here we are... Here is the old little carter Campaign pump (4090046) from Cummins... (Looking a bit sad and tried...) Then there is the installed AirDog 150... (Mount towards the transfer case to allow the skid plate to protect the filters for being hit.) With a solid 16.5 PSI shown on the gauge! I've seen up to 18 PSI now... Then the rest is in my write up on my BOMB listing now... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm

Kind of like me...I'm going to have to give up my 1973 Dodge Charger soon... I just don't have the money to spend on getting the beast back in working order. Basically needs to be completely tore down and re-assembled. The engine and transmission need a bit of tuning but still in good shape... :thumbsup Then my Mom has a 1976 Dodge Magnum XE. This car was built for only 2 years and the quit the production on it. It got a killer 318 with a 2 BBL holly carb. Great gas mileage. Like 18-20 MPG when we parked it 10-12 years ago. It been kept in the garage all this time and just sits there... Once in awhile I steal a battery and get it fired up and roll it for a few miles and park it again for a long slumber... But the interior is like factory fresh yet! :wow In either case... I've got enough to take care of between both 1996 Dodge RAM gasser and my 2002 Dodge Cummins... Both of these truck get better MPGs than the old cars... B)

Maybe that's why the 400 CID in my 73 bit the bullet and then a 383 CID jump in its place! LOL Then it got married to 727 Transmisiion to make move quick! :wow

Did you find it yet??? If not I can shoot a pic of mine to give you a clue... LOL

You might look in the back of the owner manual it should be listed for what size of fuel tank you got... If you don't have the owner manual for your truck you could connect a Dodge dealer with your VIN number and they could tell you everything about the truck... :thumbsup PS: you might want to fill out you signature it will help us out and figuring out what you have for a truck... :thumbsup

Sometime you got to buttheads a bit to make a great debate happen... :thumbsup But I got to admit you must work to get these kind of numbers. Like you said you don't use the cruise to think ahead a bit. Well like myself I dropped another 5 MPH from my cruise during the winding canyons so I wouldn't have to cancel / resume all the time... A big part is trying to keep the throttle even... :D

WELCOME ABOARD! I'm not certain but I'm sure someone will chime in with a bit more information... I the side of the gear case should be a steel tag with HP/TQ specs...(At least on 1st and 2nd Gen's)

Well here you go Dorkweed... I did a trip down to Council, ID which is about 50 miles of rolling hills and set the cruise for 45-55 MPH... This is the results I got for the 50 mile trip back from Council, ID to home...

Actually no...I'm got that kind of setup heading to new Meadows, ID I got rolling hills... At 65 MPH I'm down to 5-6 MPG climbing and get only 15-16 coming over the back side. But if I drop my speed to 55 MPH I'm at 9-10 MPG climbing the hill and then 22-24 MPG on the back side... This is with cruise set...As for boost its much highier climbing at 65 MPH (15-17 PSI) than at 55 MPH (10-12 PSI)... Pyro isw even higher at 65 MPH at 1000*F compared to 900*F at 55 MPH...I might have to make it a game some how... :confused:

Nope... But as conversation come anf go I tend to dig up mmy tidbit from other sites... LOL So you guys got to post more and I respond to it... I dig up my tidbits more...

It seems that most products have some sort of solvent in them... But how much??? As seen with MMO it must be quite high amount of mineral spirits/stoddard solvent because of the extremely high HFRR score it got...

My best I can pull is roughlt 600-650 Miles on a tank of fuel right now... 35 Gallons x 17 MPG = 595 Miles Total Or on a good day... 35 Gallons x 19 MPG = 665 Miles total These are real numbers... I always love to see guys quoting 22-23 MPG traveling at 70 MPH... That when I pull out the BS flag for them... There is NO WAY to do it... 35 Gallons x 22 MPG = 770 Miles Total It just not happening... I've done another voting on a site to see the max travel miles on a tank of fuel... After the voting was done even the hot shot's bragging about 22-23 MPG couldn't hit better that about 16-17 MPG! I caught most people in a flat lie at that point... :wow LOL Information purpose... 35 Gallon Tank Total Distance To Empty... (Green is typical MPG for a 24V 2nd Gen) 10 MPG = 350 Miles 11 MPG = 385 Miles 12 MPG = 420 Miles 13 MPG = 445 Miles 14 MPG = 490 Miles 15 MPG = 525 Miles 16 MPG = 560 Miles 17 MPG = 595 Miles 18 MPG = 630 Miles 19 MPG = 665 Miles 20 MPG = 700 Miles 21 MPG = 735 Miles 22 MPG = 770 Miles 23 MPG = 805 Miles 24 MPG = 840 Miles 25 MPG = 875 Miles 26 MPG = 910 Miles 27 MPG = 945 Miles 28 MPG = 980 Miles

When I went to Council, ID to pick up part for a fire truck my buddy that I work with requested a 5 gallon pail of part solvent. When the part counter man brought out the pail it was clearly marked "Stoddard Solvent" on the side of the pail in bold black lettering. Now knowing all that I know in fuel additives I know there is a few fuel additves with this in it... But remember that this chemical has a few different names... Here is the Wikipedia pages on it... Mineral Spirits http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_spirits Stoddard Solvent http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stoddard_solvent So be aware there is some fuel additives like MMO that include this chemical (solvent) that is nothing more that part washer solvent! :wow Marvel Mystery Oil http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/msds ... d04377.htm This explains exactly why MMO ranked so poorly in the HFRR testing done by DieselPlace.com

Here in Idaho the MAX speed for big rigs is 65 MPH... But there is a small handful of locals that are starting to drive quite slow. In a 65 MPH zone we starting to see people willing to drive -10 of whats posted. This is a good start. Like today I know it was all downhill from McCall, ID (5,200 FT) down to home (2,800 Ft) and its a 35 mile trip... But according to my ScanGauge II I was pulling 30 MPG for the trip home... :wow But I know my trip up to McCall, ID I was doing barely 8 MPG. But my average trip for the day was 17.5 MPG... Even will climbing hills... :thumbsup

I don't know what everyone is think these days thinking that traveling faster is going to get them better MPG's... I see comment like this... 65 MPH I get 14.8 MPG and requires 74 HP to push my truck... 55 MPH I get 18 MPG and requires 50 HP to push my truck... Look at 45 MPH I'm well in the 26 MPG bracket... So I highly doubt your statement being true! I just need a mearly 27 HP at 45 MPH... Even look at the pyro it well below 600*F... I wish everyone would slow down there is no need to be running 65-75 MPH... As I shown above there is no prove your getting better MPG at 70 MPH! Can you pull 600-650 miles to a tank in your Cummins??? I CAN! By just slowing down and keepping an eye on the Pyro <600*F... The true SWEET spot is keep your pyro below 600*F and your boost under 5 PSI and 20+ MPG will come to you! This does mean driving slower (50-60 MPH) on average. Cummins wrote a good white paper on MPGs... Cummins Whitepaper http://www.mopar1973man.com//other%20fi ... epaper.pdf This is for a 80K pound truck... But the information is the same just the amount of power to move said load is less... But As shwon by my pics and information in the white paper there is ZERO proof of traveling faster is going to net you a savings... (Copied from the Whitepaper)

Well I got the parts I needed installed... It rather quite easy to rebuild you own calipers on your truck. I think the biggest part is getting the housing cleanup and all the crud offf it. After that its a matter of reasembly. But I did learn that the pistons are of a compsite material of some sort. But what has happen is the piston got crud and brake fluid built up on them. Since I've got a exhaust brake I tend to use it quite a bit and not a lot of my service brake. So Back to the rebuild. But I found if you take some 100 grid sandpaper and lightly sand the pistons again you remove the crud and you can retune the piston to fit the bore again. So Installed new seal for $2 bucks a piece... Here is some pics...

I've been so busy lately I don't even have time to look at the forums much... I wish I could get some threads going here. But it seem like talking to myself isn't so great of an idea... :confused: Dang you Dorkweed... LOL I'm going to get you for that one... :nono I do promise that I check the forum for new post at least daily... :thumbsup

Not quite yet... I got to go pick them up at Jeery's Auto Part (NAPA) in Council, ID Wednesday... If the weather is good enough I might take a cool ride on the Gold Wing to pick them up... LOL

Check this out... :thumbsup [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi8SlYGt0YM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi8SlYGt0YM[/ame]

[center:211m9h13]Don't even think about using spell-check! !!!!!!![/center:211m9h13] fi yuo cna raed tihs, yuo hvae a sgtrane mnid too. Cna yuo raed tihs? Olny 55 plepoe out of 100 can. i cdnuolt blveiee taht I cluod aulaclty uesdnatnrd waht I was rdanieg. The phaonmneal pweor of the hmuan mnid, aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it dseno't mtaetr in waht oerdr the ltteres in a wrod are, the olny iproamtnt tihng is taht the frsit and lsat ltteer be in the rgiht pclae. The rset can be a taotl mses and you can sitll raed it whotuit a pboerlm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe. Azanmig huh? Yaeh, and I awlyas tghuhot slpeling was ipmorantt! If you can raed this forwrad it. Wild Huh... :wow LOL

Ahhh!!! But I just got off the phone with my local parts guy in Council, ID he got in contact with Hometown Motors (Dodge Dealer) in Weiser, ID and found seals and 1 piston (Brand New!) $22.20 Piston$1.45 SealsThat is much cheaper than $120 bucks per caliper... :thumbsup