Mopar1973Man

Your wish is my command... (POOF!) :wow http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm (Bottom of the page)

Marvel Mystery Oil... One of the poorly rank ones...

I don't remember the size of the grommet but the hole is bigger than a 1/2" drill bit...

Usually 100*F worth of IAT and MPGs will climb... Warmer the better... :confused:

Yeap... you use the rubber grommet and the filter minder from the stock air box... As for the needle valve you barely crack it open... :thumbsup

I know that truck doesn't work for a living... 8| LOL

Take a look at this truck its happens to be the cleanest truck I've seen with only 40K mies... :wow http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.j ... 5665272112

I go to my local Cummins/John Deere shop and get my oil and fuel filters for cheap... Fuel filter was always $12 bucks and oil filters were $8 bucks. Both are fleetguard... ;) For my AirDog 150 the fleetguard filter from Dieselmanor is $9 bucks for 2 micron fleetguard... 8|

I actual got a pic of a filter at 12K miles and what it looked like with a sample of fuel...

Hmmm... :confused: A/C Modes in a 2002... MAX A/C A/C Bi-Level Floor-Def Def NON-A/C Vent Floor

I would check the control panel for good connection. Sound like a wiring issue... Maybe the HVAC controls are wore out? :confused:

Wow! That just crazy... Well if I got my butt in gear and followed your steps I could actually extend out my oil changes from the 6K the dealer had me at to my current 7.5K. Then bump up to 10K without thinking about it... ;)

Dr. P... That consider a poor programmer... As fr the TST I'm clueless... :confused:

This post is rather old and I'm sorry the pics are gone again but the Slealth plate allows you to tap the wire without cutting it. It makes a weather tight connection that never goes bad. Not to mention will not void your warrnaty by most shops... Plate shown here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/edge-comp/edge-comp.htm

Yeap... But remember bare aluminum will darken and turn black on you... So if there is polished aluminum on your engine I highly suggest you don't get any on it...

So now you going to retest here soon right??? To see if it was just a fluke or what?I like the magnet idea... ;)

Ok Gang...I got a chance to get back down and check over the problem some more. Here is what I found...Tried clearing the error codes all code return instantly.Hooked up my ScanGauge II and the data reported by the SG II is strange at best...TPS - Randomily jumping up and down between 0 and 99% thottle.ECT - Show a solid -40*FIAT - Shows a solid -40*FMAP - Sensor MAX out at 37.3 PSIACheck voltages...Battery and charging voltage 14.3 Volts max.Bus Voltage - 5.02 Volts in the sensor bus (ECT, IAT, MAP etc.)Got the listing of ground from the FSM and double check all of them. Then also performed a voltage drop test on all the main lines (battery cables and alternator cables)When you start it still behaves wierd. Throttling randomily, ccoolant gauge buries to the 240*F and trip the CEL light. Once it makes it to limp mode it will idle smooth but the throttle is dead. So if you clear the codes you got some thorttle for a short period then go wacky again...I'm starting to now lean towards a Crazy ECM box... And yes I looked up the ground for the ECM it located behing the starter and the lead was tight.

On the brakes you might want to dis-assmeble the calipers. It will blow you mind how much debris will fall in the bottom of the caliper and not bleed out.Then on the power steering I would disconnect one return line and put it in a catch container and pump out as much and flush with fresh fluid. The system hold over 1 quart between the gear box and the hydro boost. So turkey baster doesn't work because it doesn't flush the debris out of the system. Remember the system has no filter...

So did you change the fluid? :confused:

Everytime I wash the truck I wash the engine... No exceptions... I don't care if its -20*F outside that engine gets a bath the same time my truck body gets a bath. This allows me to track down new wet spots (coolant, oil, etc.) easily and repari then quickly when a new one starts. This is one reason I've got a clean looking engine. Now for the really gunky engines a can of over cleaner will strip all grease, oil, gunk and even darken aluminum. But it will be super clean. I've done this on a buddies truck a few times... :thumbsup But other that washing the engine evey time I was the truck... :confused:

I wouldn't want to personally try that Russ but I beat it would aid for a short time but the lack of extra fuel flow would eventually kill it I'm sure... Like running a engine without a constant oil pressure eventually the bearings will fail...

Actually the PCM... Because the main source (alternator) is also high voltage (Above 14)... So this cascades down the electrical system to the ECM and pulls even the 5V up...

Just because the pump is buzzing doesn't mean the pump is good. These carter stock pumps have a plastic hub inside them that will break free and the pump motor will buzz but the pump rotor is just sitting there... If there is no pressure or flow assume the pump is dead. As for check valve... Nope there is no check valve on the pressure side only the return side of the VP44.

Wow... I'm ahead of still I'm heading towards 145K miles and closing the gap on 100K miles on my VP44... ;)

PCM controls the alternator charge rate inconjunction with the battery temp sensor. So as for the sensors on the engine the ECM controls the 5 volt signal for the engine sensors. So if the alternator is running wild (over charging) or not running at all (under charging) then everything else start to fall apart. But the Cummins ECM can run as low as 8 Volts and still keep the engine going. (At least what I've heard)