Mopar1973Man

As you'll see a older gent and his RV ended up down a highway that was not rated for large trailers.

I've got the Bully Bar (Nerf Bars) and they hold up really good to my body mass (220-225#). I've also got a bad knee (dis-located years ago) and lower back issues now and then. But all in all the Bully Bars are not bad. As for the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 its got a set of factory running boards on it. But being is lower to the ground I normally don't really use them.

Empty truck no load. Manual transmission... All he's got to do is start up let it built oil pressure and drive away. By the time you shift into 3rd gear and roll into the throttle it starts knocking. He's got a theory that it might be a air issue.

I really doubt the free spin is going to net you much. Remember I'm still got spinning axles.

Actually the synthetic has effect on the petroleum based. Being all petroleum based 2 cycle oil have PPD (Pour Point Depressant) this means that petroleum 2 cycle oil will aid with gel point in the winter time where synthetics will not. Even though synthetics have a low pour point they do not contain paraffin wax of any kind and no PPD either. Being that the fuel is solely petroleum based that mean you best to stick with petroleum based lube oils.Little different when you mixing with gasoline which never gels up nor has lubricity from the start and needs every little bit it can get. Diesel fuel does already have some lubricity and does naturally have a gel point.

Don't go there... You might not of had to walk home but you've got the only Cummins that never stops... Me and Brakes http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=907 I Got Brakes http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=894 I had to pick back at ya. (Time to take cover I know the crap going to hit the fan!)

Excuses Me?! Those are my NUTS... You don't get to bargain with them! Typically I hitch up the wood splitter to the ATV and haul it around with the ATV. Then hitch up the BigTex to Mom's 96 Dodge and wheel it around like my big wagon. So move the wood splitter with the ATV to the pil and park the trailer net ot the splitter so just toss in the trailer.

Here is Vulcan Performance one of the site vendors. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Bosch-VP44-p/vp44.htm Here is DAP (Diesel Auto Power) another site vendor. http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/sovp44.htm Both come with new electronics and full rebuilt unit. With a good warranty and good price to boot!

I've got only one socket set that's it. If I loose a wheel bearing I guess I better just call a tow truck. As for worrying about what tools to take I don't even worry most times. I just keep up my monthly inspections and deal with any failures promptly. To this date since purchasing my truck on October 26, 2002 my truck has never seen a tow truck and never left me walking. I've always gotten home. If you let the paranoia set in too bad you'll start leaving home with a another Dodge in tow so you can tow the broken one home or part the towed rig for parts. This is going way too far...

The old one was a electronic thermostat. But it also had the 10 degree swings so set it at 75*F and it would swing low to 70*F kick in the furnace run all the way to 80*F till your sweating to death then shut off and then slowly sink to 70*F till your feeling cold again.

...add the links for code definitions... I hate to say it but MnTom is right with the number of injection pump codes and P1688 she is a goner...

I'm going to gain back my fan speed switch on my A/C after I pick up a SPDT switch then I can select either lo or hi then. I've got GL and GH so I just got to select either GH or GL to be hooked to the G terminal.

Don't Go There :nono:There is 8 cords in the wood shed split and stacked.Then there is about 6-7 cords to be split yet. ... worst yet I'm heading out this fall for more.

Well gang... I gone and done it. I got the Honeywell thermostat installed and all figured out. The first thing to suggest is to open up the access to both the furnace and the A/C unit and look at the wiring layout. Now I know with RV system there is no exact code they must hold to for color or labeling. So once I look at the furnace I saw a Red and White wire. So back at the thermostat I unhooked and touch them together and presto heater. Now also looking at the old thermostat the Red from the furnace was labeled +12V. Which it was a power lead so knowing this I place that lead to the R terminal on the new thermostat. The White wen to the W terminal. Now the A/C part was pretty easy. When I got the cover off I noticed right away the terminals where labeled already. But there is a catch the G is not just G its GL (lo fan - White) and GH (hi fan Green). So I used the GH lead in the G terminal of the thermostat the other GL lead I just taped up the end. The Y lead went to the Y terminal of the thermostat. Now there is a Blue wire (from the A/C) tied to Ground. Which I left and not used on the Honeywell thermostat but it was used on the Coleman for circuit ground. But after turning on the DC and AC power again and testing. Wow! I got a good thermostat! No more waking up at night either freezing or frying from lack of heat or a runaway heater. As for that problem I did find that problem and could fix it. It a cracked solder joint on the circuit board so as you slide the temp slider up or down it either hooked up or didn't. But why fix it when I got better now! Oh a better understanding of the terminal codes... http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Thermostat_signals_and_wiring

Welcome to the family.

What funny I use to work in a local paint shop and all I did was demolition work pull old damaged panels off either from a accident or from a rust damage. Yes. Most panels can be cut free from a spot weld seam then replaced and spot welded again.

Good ol' Tom stirring the pot.

I tend to want to follow diesel4life for the first part in double checking everything before even thinking of buying a ECM. Make sure you not fighting a wiring issue, alternator or something else.

Hmmm... I took care of my terminals all these years and still have factory wire terminals now. But in the pass the few fire trucks I've had to re-do I typically went out to the Cummins shop in Grangeville, ID and picked up a new length of welding cable and solder on terminals. I would solder on a new battery terminal and a new ring terminal and replace the wire as a whole. Reason... You more than likely find out cutting off the terminal head and find the copper strands corroded as well most just try using clamp on style terminals at this point the cable tend to fail rapidly because of easy access of acid to the cable.

Ohm meter the ABS sensors make sure the wire aren't internal broken I've here and done this before and had a ABS sensor lead break internally. If replacing you MUST replace in pairs you can't replace one sensor alone in the front axle.

Another update... I'm now down to 21.9 MPG Vitals I can give... Cargo and Passengers: 2 on board (350#), groceries (80#), 5/8 Tank of fuel High Temp Outside: 60*F (20*F colder) Speed: 55 MPH or lower speed limits never exceeded 55 MPH. IAT: Forced to 143*F checked actual a few times and it varied from 100-105*F. (10*F colder) Coolant Temp: 193-195*F Boost: 1.5 to 3 PSI on the flats and tried not to climb much above 10 PSI while climbing grades. EGT's: (450-500*F down) (550-600*F up) on average max'ed out at 750-800*F climbing 7% grade at 35-40 MPH (not count slowing down for corners acceleration.) Tire Pressures: Front Axle: 58 PSI - Rear Axle: 40 PSI Fuel was treated for 128:1 ratio 2 cycle oil. Air Conditioning was on and used (Defrosters). Elevation: McCall, ID 5,100 feet approx. Home: 2,800 Feet measured. Riggins, ID 1,800 feet approx. NOTE: This trip is going to exclude the trip to Riggins, ID so the distance is now for this trip 70 miles.

Smack the FB like button...

I would pull the regulator out and inspect it for damage or debris.

I've seen vacuum lines damaged by mice, vacuum motors damaged by BB's from a air rifle, I've seen vent doors stuck because of a 1 dollar bill wedged in the door, the list goes on... You might take some time and look under the dash for common vacuum issues first but worse case your pulling HVAC box out.