Mopar1973Man

I wish I could see the entire starter before it was pull apart. I scratching my head to the 2 holes and the 2 threaded holes. There has to be a means of setting the timing of the brush plate and keeping it exactly right. The last starter I played with was on a 1992 Cummins so it might be different in plate design. But still the brushes have to be timed.

Odd... :think:As far as I've known the rear axle sensor controlled the speedometer but I guess the front do the speedometer. I'll have to try your test too and see what happens.

CCD network wiring. You can measure from the ODBII port on pins 3 and 11 to ground. Here is the correct error code definitions and the diagnostics for it. P1689 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/228-p1689-no-communication-between-ecm-and-vp44 P1698 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/234-p1698-no-bus-message-received-from-pcm P0562 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/197-p0562-charging-system-voltage-too-low P0382 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/183-p0382-intake-air-heater-relay-2-control-circuit P0380 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/181-p0380-intake-air-heater-relay-1-control-circuit P0215 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/160-p0215-fuel-injection-pump-control-circuit

I would say degrease and check again. I kind of doubt the head gasket is the cause but would say the tappet cover is more likely. Hot oil does weird things as it travels on a hot block blowing in the breeze.

:think:I've never heard of it. Weird but I learned its quick fix.

I wish I could find the pictures I had of a friends starter I took totally apart. All I can tell you there is a square notch in the brush plate and there will be a square lug or pin in the can that lines the brush plate up in perfect position. If the plate is out of time or just wrong position then there is a problem. As for the lack of spin is the contacts that control power for the motor itself. So if the pinion is popping out then the contact plunger is moving but not connecting to the motor (contact problem).

I do want to apologise to AH64ID if he took it the wrong way.

Nope. During the time of hose clamp vs. turbo I asked around to a bunch of vendors about upgraded turbo with my exhaust brake. No one had a upgrade for me at the time nor any suggestion of turbo that would fit the Jacobs brake. That's why I still have a stock turbo. Everyone suggested I ditch my exhaust brake then I could upgrade. But to keep it I have to keep the HX35W turbo. Not going to argue that you are 100% correct. Still not quite willing to believe it yet... (personally). So from -20*F to 110*F net me 24% loss. Well maybe seem a bit steep... Food for thought. Some of my basis of the warmer air idea. Also looking at ISX without a fan and warmer temp he creates. http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/general/0708dp_1997_dodge_ram_3500_dualie_cummins/viewall.html

But once again that was a short burst down the interstate which I never use. Also could I ask if you could repeat that again? Get the same MPG numbers and with the same load. I will admit I've seen rare high MPG's like I noted in my logs. Even ISX has seen the same thing too. Rare but do happen. So what I look at is the typical average. Correct that why I said a bit of abuse. Very true. After seeing ISX finding on the turbo discharge temps and the what the intercooler has to expel I would say you absolute correct there too. But no cooling issues unless pushing excessive with heavy load in too high of gear. Yes. I will agree at this point you need the colder air to over come the weight/load issues. So very true this why I will not upgrade more than I have. I'm at my limit. But like I stated before I got go WOT with totally stock truck and still see 1,400*F EGT's towing. So even in stock form it was mis-matched. Never said you abusing yours. Just stated it was the far extent would be abuse. Not throwing stones either. Once again... Not my Cummins. Also I never said anything about you. Just experiences I've had and how I handle hauling heavy loads and how I leave margin for safety. Nothing about your driving style. And no it wasn't meant to be rude it just I factor in road, trailer, etc but more. After this happened in the past. About the turbo ok. Asking politely how could I change my current turbo to be more efficient without replacing both turbo, exhaust brake, cam or head studs? Seriously scratching my head on that one? Just to be clear I'm not trying to be rude to anyone just I look at things from efficiency angle and less from power performance angle. This is a heck of a debate though. So. Let me back up a second why does Wild & Free say it perfectly ok to run +150HP injectors against a stock HX35W turbo? Once again racing application. That for sure not matched... I'll have to find the thread. Don't really buy that too well. Once the vehicle is warmed up so is all the gear train too. It warm to the touch as well. Wind drag change I will admit air does become more dense but I'm pretty sure it's not going change that drastic. ISX do you have a formula for wind density, temperature vs. drag coefficient. I would love to see if this is actual a truth how much lost there is to wind drag vs. temp.

Like I'm still getting into the 20's with my +50HP and 5x3 setting on the Edge Comp. I still get a wee-bit of smoke but all-a-round MPG seem to be able to get 22-23 MPG on the scanGauge II.

I would bet money you guys are right about the torque and crack problem it really does make sense of engine mount location and how the the cracks form and where.

Thanks... I needed that number. I still got to order the parts yet.

So it was a o-ring issue.

I'm stuck with my turbo because of the exhaust brake. So I can't change the efficiency of it. As for the 24V's they are a odd duck. Doesn't work that way. As far as measurements and results I'm seeing. Still and all I'm way above the efficiency average of most 24V owners. But still both you and AH64ID are two different series of engines with way different mods even between the three of us. Now if this conversation would be a little more fair if all of us has 24V truck completely stock and started comparing notes. Now the playground would be level and fair. Comparing oranges, apples and peaches isn't working. Once again 24V only... Once again why is MPG fooler showing increase with not just me but most all others? Viable mod that actually works. Why is it during cold weather even during the summer MPG is down? (40-50*F outside temp) Why is it that during warm or hot weather MPG's are up? (90-110*F outside temp) All I got to do is get up early in the morning driver ot New Meadows and day break and get 3 MPG lower than if I got up later and let the Meadows area warm and now gain it back why is that?

Once again there is the difference. I'm not out for full blown race to the the top of the hill. I am looking for fuel Economy. Fuel is expensive for me up here compared to you AH64ID. Start cold and go to heavy throttle usage in a cold state no warm up at all. Like I said just a wee bit. Again here is a difference again. I'm looking for longevity and efficiency so it outside my normal usage. I consider it a abuse. I like to leave so buffer room while towing. Because there is time like I learned of the years that once it starts to over heat you might be stuck driving another 5-10 miles to fine a safe spot to pull over. Without a trailer no problem. But I never allow the engine to put in a spot where I could but caught with a safety issue of stopping or possible damage the engine getting to safety. Once again difference between us. Already had this happen with another vehicle this why I won't do it. That is correct. But it goes to show IAT do have effect for better MPG numbers though. Once again different goal. When I'm reach higher average than your are I guess I found a sweet spot that way. 200K work of logs and 17.89 AVG. Your avg MPG 15.3. Your high is 21.5. My high 26.12 MPG (Hand Calc'ed). I looking after a different performance than both you and ISX. http://www.fuelly.com/driver/AH64ID/ram-3500 Power performance I will highly agree with both of you! YES, you need colder air for high power or racing applications for controlling EGT's. I will not argue that point.

That where we differ... I don't worry about holding speed limit up a grade I don't mind slowing down to take my time. That where on the racing side you would be looking into the intake temps and such. But I don't race. Even in stock form back in 2004 when I bought my gauges... No Edge Comp, factory cold air air box, no injectors, etc. I was still able to pass over 1,400*F with a trailer in tow climbing 7% grades. I could push the coolant temp well up into the 210-215 area without thinking but that is racing foot mashed to the floor trying to tow over a grade in fully stock form. So again it comes back to daily driver, racing and extreme end would be full abuse. I've try putting back on the stock box and looking for change in intake temps or EGT's there is none for me. I don't see any changes in IAT or EGT's at all between stock cold air and BHAF once again in daily driver. But again I don't drive with 30-35 PSI of boost for miles but only in short burst. I typically only see 2-8 PSI so like I said before I don't generate huge amounts of turbo heat like you would with you foot planted to the floor for several miles pulling a grade. The only time I tend to get a bit abusive to the truck is during fire calls I do run 70-75 MPH roughly in a 65 MPH, I do pass vehicle planted to the floor and can see EGT's cresting 1,200-1,300*F but once again short burst and it drops back to 800-1,000*F and still hauling down the pavement to the fire call. This could be a cold start in the middle of the night. So to go from dead cold no warm up and hauling at 70-75 MPH yeah just a bit abusive. Even the bigger Cummins 400 I drive that weighs 65,000 pound in stock form if driven too hard in the wrong gear can really make that coolant temp rise up fast. It's also turbo charged non-intercooled no gauges either boost or pyro but I can bet that EGT's are high as hell if you try to mat the throttle going up a steep mountain road racing as seen by the coolant temp. Once again I grab a gear that has a good power level for the load and hold the R's at about 2K and let her climb at her own rate not try to force it to speed up and grab another gear that might be just too tall for the load. Again another sign of racing again. But again dump the 4,000 gallons of water (33,360 pounds) now you can race up the canyon roads almost 2 gears higher than loaded. All based on load.

I would for the fun of it have the stock injectors pop tested and see if there is a serious difference in the stock vs. new injectors and see what the pop pressure are for both batches. But if both are popping at the same pressure them injectors wouldn't be the cause.

I'm glad to hear it worked out for you.

I had a parking brake cable fail and rust solid. It wasn't hard at all to replace. But then had it start to rust up again. So pull that cable out hung it and feed oil from one end to the other now it work absolutely perfect. Soft pedal locks the rear tires up to a skid when I plant that parking brake.

Hang on a second gang. We keep discussing racing or WOT values of intake temperature and such. Most of us have daily drivers that don't tow and drive sensibility at posted speed limits. Like myself here locally the speeds are 55-65 MPH respectively. I might be at 15-20% of throttle, 600-700*F EGT, and 2-8 PSI of boost. Ok. So how much is heat going to effect it? Not much being there is little to no compressor heat generation, intercooler is way big enough at those values to handle that little bit of heat. Ok. So now a WOT passing operation which last at the most 30 seconds so it not exactly perfect but we don't drive WOT operation like racing/dyno operation as a daily driver. Like trailer towing yeah I got some good serious grades around me but never had extreme intake temps even with the stock IAT placement. I don't run 30-35 PSI climbing grades more like 20-25 PSI tops which is still close to stock values. Even pulling over Whitebird I was geared down took my time looking at 1,000*F at about 20-25 PSI of boost. My highest IAT was 148*F ever but still within the +40*F normal for offset vs. outside temp. But that was being foolish and climbing in too high of gear and pushing. Yes now if your in the racing/dyno game them YES. I fully agree you have to highly consider the intake temp, boost pressures, and everything else because it does have a huge impact of performance out. But back to the daily driver. Which I keep looking at my ScanGauge II which is now calibrated to my +50 HP injectors (only off 0.5%) I'm seeing 23-26 MPG for my daily travels. So does high intake temps (120-140*F) hurt MPG performance? No. Not that I'm seeing with empty truck daily travel going to and from McCall, ID and other local towns.

You got to remember there is a gap running along the edge of the hood where air blows in over the top of the BHAF on the 2nd Gen's like my last RV run to Heyburn Park in Plummer, ID I was seeing roughly 30-35*F offset from outside. The only time IAT crawled up in temp was crawling through towns at 20-25 MPH. The most I've every seen on IAT was 148*F. But that was while crawling around Lewiston,ID at 25 MPH in city streets.

But why would it run right with the stock injectors and not with the bigger injectors? The the damaged connector tube would most likely repeat the problem regardless of the injectors wouldn't it?

Most likely vacuum pump, tappet cover, or gear case cover would be my 3 guess.As for oil pressure the factory gauge no better than guessing at the pressure if you where to actually measure it you would be shocked at the pressures.

Now I'm even I'm scratching my head...

Taken care of...