Mopar1973Man

Kind like my buddy and I on the fire line. We wear bandanna's and keep them soaking wet by dipping them in the fold-a-tanks or creek. In the heat of the day find a shady spot under a tree. Limit the exposure in the direct sunlight if possible. Like this fire we been very lucky to just be working a water tender and filling fold-a-tanks or small wildland engines. But we are seeing close to 100*F weather just about every day. http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=45.4221105&lon=-116.31541099999998&site=all&smap=1&searchresult=Riggins%2C%20ID%2083549%2C%20USA#.UevTruFx2Bw

5" down to 4" is a noise reduction and there is actual no need for 5" till well over 500 HP. Your no where near that. I'm still running 3" exhaust and getting better MPG than you are most likely. Exhaust size is mostly for racing. 3" Exhaust is still capable of touching as a maximum of 25-26 MPG and everyday towing also 3" is rather very quiet even without a muffler. Daily driving for me to give you idea of flow. I've typically see 2-3 PSI on the highway at 55 MPH and towing maybe 7-10 PSI. Absolutely no EGT's problem even towing.

No such thing... Cam and crank sensors create a frequency pulse for the ECM so there is no way to hot wire it. All you can do is replace the sensors. But I've never had any problems with cam sensor as of yet. So its rather rare for those. But Crank sensors do fail but typically give notice of fail with error codes and dropping tach.

Like my truck has a full life of heavy hauling of trailers or just cargo in the bed still no issues with 5th gear nut.

Yeah I got my fingers in too many pies at times... But Yeah. Brian and Dylan are to great guys trying to build up a web site for the Smarty Programmer. Hopefully with the help of these two gents we can glean me information on tune these great Cummins engine making them better. (Wave Magic Wand) -= POOF! =- You now granted access...

Welcome to the family hopefully you have some tales and information to share as well.

You might have that A/C looked at on your little Cirrus see if it can be improved. I know what you mean its over 105*F in Riggins, ID and like 95-98*F on the hill where we are still working the fire and I'm hiding under trees to keep cool while waiting for engines to come out for water from our tender. Nasty hot these days. So you be careful and hide from the heat for now.

Remember this will cost you fuel to use to get the heat. So typically I use it till about 100*F and then bail out. But for those day that are icy it wonderful. I'm also in a hole too so as I climb up out of the hole it gets colder.

Oh I'm not too worried about it... There is friends around here that ask me to haul their firewood so I get paid a little bit for fuel and time and do the truck driving for them. Most of my friends either don't have pickups or small Dakota's... :duh:Not like I'm loading up and hauling across state lines... Basically going maybe 40-60 miles round trip. Mostly up forest roads.

I typically see minimum temps of -25*F up here in Idaho bu its nice to hurry the heat up process for the mornings with serious ice build up on the windshield. I can go from -25*F block temp to 170*F of coolant temp in about 10 minutes using 3 cylinder high idle and a exhaust brake. Then its nice to pull in to a store for a quick soda pop and being able to set 6 cylinder high idle and keep the truck warm. Or... Another is in the heat of the summer set 6 cylinder high idle to aid in quick cab cooling this keeps the fan going and A/C colder than just idle does. So this is a few reason to do the full boat of high idle and MPG fooler...

Extended idling with coolant temps below 140*F is damaging. All you have to do is with a cold engine stick a 56k ohm or 100k resistor into the IAT plug after you unplug the IAT sensor of course. Start the engine and see if the 3 cylinder high ilde start within about 5 minutes tops.

Check this out guys and gals this might be the ultimate fix for the 5th gear nut... http://compare.ebay.com/like/180851331740?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

Hmmm... Might have them pop tested again to see they are matched up good.

You could downgrade to 4" exhaust to reduce noise... Get a BHAF and throw the K&N in the trash... Do you have gauges? If not get some... Southbend or Valair clutch... Might have to upgrade from the FASS DDRP to full FASS 150... RV275 injectors or +50 Injectors...

Either loose connection or the Edge Comp's boost fooler is failing on you. Remove the Edge Comp and see if the problem goes away. If so then the Edge Comp failed on you.

Not really needed... The stock 3" pipe exhaust and the stock intake horn will support daily driver 400 HP without any problems.

Take a peek at my signature and you'll see what I've done for 400 HP truck and doesn't take a bunch of modification to do.

:rolleyes:Hmmm... Neither trailer has moved in the yard for at least 2 weeks now being I've been stuck out on the forest fires locally.

Edge EZ is a very mild box. 65 HP worth of power with only 3 levels of control. No wire tap. Edge Comp is 120 HP worth of power with 25 levels of control. Wire tap required for levels 2-5.

Look for the connector under the driver seat and you can tuck a piece of wire across the terminals of the seat beat plug and that will keep the light off. OPEN = Light ONSHORTED = Light OFF

Whitelightning happened to report that you need at least APPS sensor reporting at least a usable throttle position like hes is locked at 25% and cruise now works for 24V p-pump conversions.

Sure I'd be willing to host the link for Quadzilla software for the gang...

Not quote sure which method this year as of yet... Actually mopping up 2 fires now. Funny... I thought I was going to have the day off and my Fire Chief called me to drive the tender again. So I packed up this morning and hauled back out to the fire line again. I know I'll be free tomorrow. The big 4,000 gallon tender isn't requested and only need the smaller 1,200 tender so my buddy Kelly and Chad are going to run tomorrow and I ge the day off. So here I'm posting again at midnight...

You might replace them once in every 10-20 years. I keep mine setup to the truck won't roll with the parking brake set. So as for driving around with the parking brake set never happens with me. So my parking brake shoe life is really good.

Torque Management hold till about 20-25 MPH before releasing and then the full power comes on. So if you think you have power then you'll be surprised of the power after a Rad Box. But there is a down side to it if you use a Rad Box then the instrument cluster is canceled out and doesn't function correctly.