Mopar1973Man

20. Cam Ring19. Driver Disk21. Roller Shoe22. Roller12. Drive Shaft205. Selection Key17. Selection Friction Washer10. Torx Flathead Screw9. Support Ring7. Supply pump

61. Torx Oval Head Screw62. Spring Lock Washer805. Part Set Control Unit803. Part Set Restriction54. Gasket63. O-ring49. Torx Fillister Screw50. Hydraulic Head51. O-rings25. Deep Groove Ball Bearing23. Friction Washer

38. Screws37. Closing cover30. O-Ring39. O-Ring36. O-ring35. Hydraulic Stop42. Compression Spring801. Part Set of the Timing Piston

Ok... I dug through the part list and never found. Here is a picture of the seal kit used for rebuilding. All violet colored parts are in the seal kit. Mostly o-rings and gaskets. Notes Take notice this is the 4 cylinder version.

#51 are 3 o-ring seals. Give me a bit I'll get digging on this...

More than welcome I'm glad to to be able to help you by have the web site and a weird collection of people.

I have to agree with AH64ID about te roads here in Idaho and the impact they have on tire rubber. I typically see about 30-35k miles from tires. My biggest eater of tires is haulling firewood. The miles of hauing heavy up and down the mountain chews the rubber up fast. Even my exhaust brake eats the rubber quickly. But as for the formula its a good base line number to start from and tweak. I've been through 2 sets of tires now and never had a blow out or serious tire damage from poor inflation numbers.

Here you go gang. I've hit the jackpot and fond some more information on the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump. Now we can at least see what's in the pump a bit more...

I've got a Southbend Con OFE single disc clutch and stock hydraulics and there is no adjust or need for adjustment.

I'm running 16" x 7" rims on both the 96 and the 02 both trucks with 235's now. Still if I over inflate on either truck I can measure a difference in tread wear from center to shoulder. You can see it a bit more with the eyes after running a dirt road. That's what got me think about the tire pressure vs. weight.

You can over-inflate your tire to improve your MPG numbers but now your tire wear becomes more in the centers and less on the shoulders. Traction on dirt roads is also reduced and ride is rougher. Using the math gives you a middle of the road for the weight you are now currently carrying. Good ride, good tire wear, good MPG numbers. It handles its weight just fine, traction on dirt roads is OK. Under-inflation you gain good amount of traction in loose dirt and on snow. But take a risk of blow out if hauling heavy. Then the tire wears more on the shoulders than in the centers. Usually the truck feels squirrelly and mushy. Between using a tread depth gauge and the math I can tune the pressures to get the best ride and tread life from the tire. Typically my MPG's are unaffected by using the formula for pressures. Being I'm now capable of reaching mid-20's when I want to with a empty truck.Ok lets use AH64ID table...245/75 R16 tire in the table list at 35 PSI at 1,700 pounds.Formula now...1700 / 3042 = 0.55 x 80 PSI = 44 PSI1865 / 3042 = 0.61 x 80 PSI = 49 PSI2030 / 3042 = 0.66 x 80 PSI = 53 PSI2205 / 3042 = 0.72 x 80 PSI = 58 PSI2335 / 3042 = 0.76 x 80 PSI = 61 PSI... I think you see a difference.

Be careful... Might be a bigger carbon footprint... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2158-Biofuels-emit-400-percent-more-CO2-than-regular-fuels?highlight=biodiesel+400%25 Doubt that if the tanks is already cleaned out then there should be no reason for frequent filter changes unless the fuel itself is dirty. And my last filter change was at 30k miles... Filter still look good... Remember this is petroleum fuel not biodiesel. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6071&d=1376955306

The reason why it won't work is because let say the diode is installed so only 12 volt positive comes through like normal. Ok now let say a diode in the alternator fails either open or shorted. Now you created a ripple that travels up and down (funky kind of square wave). So the output diode will most likely mirror this behavior with every time the wave swing down it shuts off power flow. It hard to say without seeing the input wave form to know what the output is like.As for Hex0rz post I would start by checking alternator output for AC noise.

AH64ID is right is very linear in pointing out the pressure for weight. But where it comes in handy is getting the right pressure for the tires from the get go. Like the owners manual might state some numbers that are close. But as you buy different tires, different sizes, different load ranges, etc each and everyone needs a bit of tuning for optimal tread wear and traction.So I'll break it down for you...(Axle weight / 2) / Tire Weight capacity x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation pressure.So say my front axle weighs 4,400 pounds. I need to divide that in half to get the weight at both tires. So that gives me 2,200 pound on each front tire. Now looking at the capacity of the tire which is stamped on all tires you need the max weight number which typically is 3,042 pounds. So you would divide 2,200 by 3,042 and get a percent (decimal) as a return. In this example it would be 0.72 . This is the percent of load on the tire in weight from 0 to 1 (0% to 100%). Then you would take the maximum inflation number which is typically 80 PSI on a Load range E tire. Now you would multiply 0.72 by 80 and get your inflation value. 57.8 PSI.Like other example of tires I've Ran...235/85 R16 - Load Range G (3750# @ 110 PSI)4400 / 2 = 2200 / 3750 = 0.58 x 110 = 64.5 PSI265/75 R16 - Load Range E (2415# @ 80 PSI)4400 / 2 = 2200 / 3415 = 0.64 x 80 = 51.5 PSISo you can't use the same inflation from one rating of tire to another they all vary just a bit. Even look at the difference from the tires I just listed there is a slight variation to the pressure numbers.

Assuming its a carb'ed unit I would pull the carb off and go back through it and double check all fuel jets and all air jets for plugging. Change the fuel filter again. Might go as far as change the tank of fuel out if it got moisture/water in it.

I need to get my hunting license so I can go grouse hunting. I've had one sitting on the front porch here for the past couple of days. I'd almost had a 3 for 1 deal with the ATV but I was bit slow on the throttle. :banghead:

:shrug:When I've done my injectors last time I never even cracked a injector line at all. I just crank till she fired up typically in about 10-15 seconds. Even doing filter changes (both AirDog and the stock filter) I just bump the starter crack the line at the VP44 inlet till fuell is present and start the engine.

Biodiesel typically has less BTU content (high cetane) vs. petroleum and 2 cycle oil mix (lower cetane).Biodiesel can and has separated and settled to the bottom of tanks in the cold of winter. Homebrew Biodiesel tends to be dirty fuel common to plug up filters premature. Homebrew Biodiesel has been known to cause injection pump damage. The only bonus to biodiesel is its lubricity its extremely good.

I've seen blowby so bad that the cap when unscrew was shot out of your hand and hit the hood. (Common Rail)

Assuming vapor right? Yes its normal. If you place the can in the hole and the cap is blown off the hole then that is excessive blowby.

Wait till you see it at -25*F or colder you'll swear someone lit a fire under your truck. There will be white vapor rising from as far as the rear bumper.

Vitals I can give... (24.7 MPG) Cargo and Passengers: 2 on board (350#), groceries (80#), 3/8 Tank of fuel High Temp Outside: 65*F Speed: 55 MPH or lower speed limits never exceeded 55 MPH. IAT: Forced to 143*F checked actual a few times and it varied from 110-115*F. (Winter Front Used!) Coolant Temp: 195-197*F (Warmer Coolant) Boost: 1.5 to 3 PSI on the flats and tried not to climb much above 10 PSI while climbing grades. EGT's: (450-500*F down) (550-600*F up) on average max'ed out at 750-800*F climbing 7% grade at 35-40 MPH (not count slowing down for corners acceleration.) Tire Pressures: Front Axle: 58 PSI - Rear Axle: 37 PSI Fuel was treated for 128:1 ratio 2 cycle oil. Air Conditioning was on and used. Elevation: McCall, ID 5,100 feet approx. Home: 2,800 Feet measured. MPG - Instant MPG number Cmg - Current MPG for the Day Tmg - Total For the Tank IA - IAT Temps (forced) Yes. My AVG over the tank (Tmg) is really low I've been using the truck mostly for hauling trailers and today was my empty trip for groceries in McCall, ID. But it goes to prove warmer air does produce slightly better quality for MPG's for 2.8 MPG gain...

Cylinder wear or piston ring wear will cause blowby issues. Compression test will spot if you have issues. As for blow by are you losing any oil from the breather?This is normal...

Might not exactly be a just a MAP sensor. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low To add ot the diagnostic it could be a boost fooler issue if your using one as well. (Open circuit).

I totally agree... Follow the the top 10 (Ten Commandments) you'll do just fine.