Mopar1973Man

IAT sensor has to drop below 60-65*F for grid heaters to start. You might want to verify you IAT temps.P0380 and P0382 are both error codes for grid heaters.

Are people this blind can see the flashing lights and warnings?

Codes what codes are you getting?ECM, PCM and VP44 are the actual battery cable. Lighting and other accessories use the other body grounds.

Exactly... Just like ISX pointed out. Like up here its not some much as getting to 2 vehicle accidents but 1 vehicle accidents or vehicle vs. animal. Like couple years ago a unlucky person up here in Idaho lost his life to a cow. Yes. A cow he wasn't speeding or anything but in the dark of night hit a cow at about 60-65 MPH and went over his hood and crush him. Other vehicle accidents up here include like in the video where he's taking about the yellow signs. Ok... I've got a stretch of canyon same corner 3 times running this year has had vehicle vs. mountain of course the mountain won. Each and every accident in this corner was in way excess of the mark YELLOW sign speed (35 MPH) and most like above the speed limit (45 MPH) as well. Even though this section of canyon is reduced speed limit people still feel they MUST drive 65 MPH down this narrow stretch of canyon road with barricade on one side and a mountain on the other. There is just zero room for error. I drive in such of fashion up here that I'm constantly asking myself..."What if a deer jump out of ditch onto the road?""What if grandma pulls out of the next driveway around this blind corner?""What if there is a car passing over the next blind hill top at excessive speed?"All these thing have occurred to me and lucky enough I was at or lower than speed limit and avoided a accident. Like Idaho laws states you can drive BELOW speed limit legally as long as you not delaying more than 3 vehicles if so then you must yield to the traffic. Typically the 2 vehicle accidents are because people are stupid and pass in blind corners or over blind hill tops. Or tailgate excessive close so the next stop you make they can't react in time and either rear-end you or take out the on coming traffic in the other lane trying to avoid you.All I can say after all the years of working with EMT and Fire Dept. Be smart and drive what is safe to you!

I got a solution from Deborah... I've got sleeves I can add to the stem of the filter base to tighten up the core of the roll. As for the rolls being short I've still got a few more cases of TP left with the larger size yet. You could place a piece of plastic bar in the base of the can to hopefully take up some of the room. Thinking out loud.

That's what's scary. These are college grads from high dollar schools running the show. Harvard / Yale etc. Then the truly ignorant people are just blinded by the media and looking for the FREE hand outs from the Gov't so makes for a bad deal either way.

Personally I think he needs to sell the RV as salvage and sell the truck and find a small Geo to drive around... But that's just me. How can you forget that you have a monster trailer behind you and cram it through that tiny tunnel ripping all the roof equipment off and then forget your length and not adjust your corners properly?

I really don't see a need for the coolers unless your seeing dis-colored trans fluid well before its change time show that its broke down from heat. So if the fluid is stay clear colored for most of the way to 100k miles then you should be fine. At the worst you could install a trans temp gauge and see what's going on if your really concerned.

I've heard of them but not many that I know of use the product. The thing is I never could get any solid information on point pour reduction, HFRR score, cetane score, etc.

As you'll see a older gent and his RV ended up down a highway that was not rated for large trailers.

I've got the Bully Bar (Nerf Bars) and they hold up really good to my body mass (220-225#). I've also got a bad knee (dis-located years ago) and lower back issues now and then. But all in all the Bully Bars are not bad. As for the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 its got a set of factory running boards on it. But being is lower to the ground I normally don't really use them.

Empty truck no load. Manual transmission... All he's got to do is start up let it built oil pressure and drive away. By the time you shift into 3rd gear and roll into the throttle it starts knocking. He's got a theory that it might be a air issue.

I really doubt the free spin is going to net you much. Remember I'm still got spinning axles.

Actually the synthetic has effect on the petroleum based. Being all petroleum based 2 cycle oil have PPD (Pour Point Depressant) this means that petroleum 2 cycle oil will aid with gel point in the winter time where synthetics will not. Even though synthetics have a low pour point they do not contain paraffin wax of any kind and no PPD either. Being that the fuel is solely petroleum based that mean you best to stick with petroleum based lube oils.Little different when you mixing with gasoline which never gels up nor has lubricity from the start and needs every little bit it can get. Diesel fuel does already have some lubricity and does naturally have a gel point.

Don't go there... You might not of had to walk home but you've got the only Cummins that never stops... Me and Brakes http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=907 I Got Brakes http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=894 I had to pick back at ya. (Time to take cover I know the crap going to hit the fan!)

Excuses Me?! Those are my NUTS... You don't get to bargain with them! Typically I hitch up the wood splitter to the ATV and haul it around with the ATV. Then hitch up the BigTex to Mom's 96 Dodge and wheel it around like my big wagon. So move the wood splitter with the ATV to the pil and park the trailer net ot the splitter so just toss in the trailer.

Here is Vulcan Performance one of the site vendors. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Bosch-VP44-p/vp44.htm Here is DAP (Diesel Auto Power) another site vendor. http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/sovp44.htm Both come with new electronics and full rebuilt unit. With a good warranty and good price to boot!

I've got only one socket set that's it. If I loose a wheel bearing I guess I better just call a tow truck. As for worrying about what tools to take I don't even worry most times. I just keep up my monthly inspections and deal with any failures promptly. To this date since purchasing my truck on October 26, 2002 my truck has never seen a tow truck and never left me walking. I've always gotten home. If you let the paranoia set in too bad you'll start leaving home with a another Dodge in tow so you can tow the broken one home or part the towed rig for parts. This is going way too far...

The old one was a electronic thermostat. But it also had the 10 degree swings so set it at 75*F and it would swing low to 70*F kick in the furnace run all the way to 80*F till your sweating to death then shut off and then slowly sink to 70*F till your feeling cold again.

...add the links for code definitions... I hate to say it but MnTom is right with the number of injection pump codes and P1688 she is a goner...

I'm going to gain back my fan speed switch on my A/C after I pick up a SPDT switch then I can select either lo or hi then. I've got GL and GH so I just got to select either GH or GL to be hooked to the G terminal.

Don't Go There :nono:There is 8 cords in the wood shed split and stacked.Then there is about 6-7 cords to be split yet. ... worst yet I'm heading out this fall for more.

Well gang... I gone and done it. I got the Honeywell thermostat installed and all figured out. The first thing to suggest is to open up the access to both the furnace and the A/C unit and look at the wiring layout. Now I know with RV system there is no exact code they must hold to for color or labeling. So once I look at the furnace I saw a Red and White wire. So back at the thermostat I unhooked and touch them together and presto heater. Now also looking at the old thermostat the Red from the furnace was labeled +12V. Which it was a power lead so knowing this I place that lead to the R terminal on the new thermostat. The White wen to the W terminal. Now the A/C part was pretty easy. When I got the cover off I noticed right away the terminals where labeled already. But there is a catch the G is not just G its GL (lo fan - White) and GH (hi fan Green). So I used the GH lead in the G terminal of the thermostat the other GL lead I just taped up the end. The Y lead went to the Y terminal of the thermostat. Now there is a Blue wire (from the A/C) tied to Ground. Which I left and not used on the Honeywell thermostat but it was used on the Coleman for circuit ground. But after turning on the DC and AC power again and testing. Wow! I got a good thermostat! No more waking up at night either freezing or frying from lack of heat or a runaway heater. As for that problem I did find that problem and could fix it. It a cracked solder joint on the circuit board so as you slide the temp slider up or down it either hooked up or didn't. But why fix it when I got better now! Oh a better understanding of the terminal codes... http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Thermostat_signals_and_wiring