Mopar1973Man

You should be ok. Typically the needle valve is skipped and the isolator takes a beating usually kill it. Maybe this why you isolator is holding up good is you protecting both the isolator and gauge with the needle valve.

I ran PS every other tank roughly guessing at doses. Never saw any gains to performance or MPG but it sure did help kill my OEM VP44 injection pump at 50K miles.Kind of like Dodge and Cummins black listing Fram filters for killing engines by plugging the oil cooler jets. so Power Service is blacklisted (in my book) for help killing my VP44 injection pump.

Love it... I use the saw in all positions that handle allows.

Kind of like this tree you can see my 16" stick on the tree and the chainsaw on the ground...

I'm not exactly a Ford guy but I do understand the fuel system in a basic sense. Cetanefreak is right. The oil thickens up and harder to pump to the injectors. So there is a certain amount of lag till the oil temp comes up. Another part of that is the computer trying to control timing and fighting the cold oil as well. Block heater or a oil pan heater helps a bunch in this problem.

Ain't happening now... I already spent big money getting the last one fixed... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7143-Destroyed-a-turbo-with-a-hose-clamp?highlight=hose+clamp

For every gallon of fuel pumped into the tank you want 1 ounce of oil added. So if you pump 14 gallons of fuel in the tank then you want 14 ounces of oil. Fairly simple?128:1 Ratio... so for every 128 ounces (1 gallon) you put 1 ounce of oil. :wink:How often every time. Why? Because Bosch states for optimal life of the VP44 fuel is required to be 450 or less in HFRR score but todays US fuel is 520 HFRR on average. Higher the number the more damage occurs.

Like in Riggins, ID there is only one island with diesel/gas pumps and always taken up with someone pumping gas. I at least have the common sense to go to the gas pumps when I'm driving the gasser around. I won't plug up the diesel island that's just rude.

Ask Dorkweed about his Motorguard bypass filter and his 78K adventure with WalMart SuperTech engine oil.

Yeah... You should be able to swap the sender for the schrader...

Passenger side battery ground. This ground deals with the PCM directly. Then test your alternator of AC Noise.

I can't find the stock one per say but ask Eric about it. But if that doesn't pan out I know he's got these... Schrader Valve - Which will fit your Tapped banjo bolt. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Brass-Schrader-valve-p/31482.htm Tapped banjo - which you've already got. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Tapped-Banjo-Bolt-p/tbb.htm

Between the Vulcan Performance +50 Injectors and my Edge Comp on 5x3 its a wicked amount of power. There is nothing little about the the power gains. I've still got problems under heavy throttle keeping the tire tires from breaking free on dry pavement. :burnout2:As for injector performance. I've notice a change of the last few days as the injectors are getting quieter and quieter. There is nearly no injector rattle occur now. Very very similar sounding in the cab to a 3rd gen Dodge. Idle is really smooth and steady now. Very little to zero smoke set with 5x3 on the Edge Comp (120 HP max power with 67% stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost). I'm hoping this next week I get to do a RV test and report back with that. Also get the ScanGauge II verified. As for kicking the pig and opening up to 5x5. Now you got a smoke monster. I was playing around up on the forestry roads and Wow! Talk about blacking out the road behind me. (Night!?)As for hauling firewood and climbing grades its truly a different story between the RV275 and the +50 HP. I've seen good power and such with the RV275's but now playing with the +50 HP wow! Even my buddy Taz (here on the site) happen to mention how much harder it was to keep head upright as I drop the hammer on the throttle. It pulls hard and very very strong even MoparMom has commented on the pulling power.As for MPG's no I've not calibrated or verified yet but numbers are very similar to the RV275's slightly better at times.

I don't know what to say. Wow! http://www.fs2500.com/ http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=klcBRnyCSvo

I know this is the assembly of a Fram filter but the we can see how at least they are made.

Just remember if the debris is plenty and big enough then it will plug the radiator core tube up and the overheat will get worse. I've had this happen with the old 1973 Dodge Charger where I drained, drop of a bottle of radiator flush, jump out in traffic in California and BAM! I was over heated in no time flat. When I did managed to get home the radiator was plugged so tight it didn't flow any water at all. So off to the radiator shop to be rodded out.

Name rings a bell... CRS... Ah what the hell your welcome to hang around I know the rest of the gang here will keep you in line...

Be careful what you wish for I'm going to be showing up on your porch sometime this summer.

Ohhh... Man... I would like to be driving a 2000 or newer truck but all we got here is 1960 to 1994 if that... Mostly have older 2 1/2 ton military fire trucks and water tenders. A few structure engines and a few brush trucks. Thinking of that I've got a 1985 International truck body with a Detroit V6 Diesel that has the air compressor on the back I need to find out about the regulator on that beast I'm pretty sure its just running away and over loading the tanks (120-130 PSI) and constant sneezing. Then the same truck has a rear axle oil seal gone. (Standard fix). If you got any information on that compressor I would love to have it.

Feel the love...

Gambling guess would be within the PDC (Power distribution center) under the hood.

Better stick around I'll ask you plenty of questions about fire trucks being I'm a Station Captain for Salmon River Rural Fire Dept. Got 6 fire stations and plenty of fire trucks to work on. But glad to meet ya Mick hopefully you stick around with the family here.

I was think man it's going to suck mowing all that lawn. Riding around on a lawn tractor side hill trying to mow all that. Ugh.

Key thing here is the good quality clean injector. There are a few injectors out there that are rather smoky and dirty.

Right on the money. I was going to mention the fact of the oil that is sprayed in the bottom of the piston keeps the cylinder walls wet with oil and the piston doesn't wipe it completely dry. So the fine dust is collected on the cylinder walls as well as blown passed the rings in the compression / ignition stroke. This is one of the few reasons I typically suggest against a washable media filter. Washable media filter are good right out of the box and are going to filter just fine. But after 10-20 washings of the media how good is it now? How much higher is the micron rating of the filter? I have NEVER seen a washable media air filter retested after 100, 200, 500, 1000 washings and show ratings again. I can bet money that most washable media start losing filter effectiveness after 10-20 or so washings but the truck owner has no clue because he can't test the filter at home.