Mopar1973Man

As long as there no vacuum sensed inside the filter then you good to go. My first BHAF lasted 7 years and 135K miles before I gave up. The filter minder never moved. Yes I've tested it several times and it always worked. But what got me to change the filter is when the media inside the filter starts to darken in color it was a shade of off-white. Why risk it when the filter served its life well and very long!

Car Acronyms...Acura: Awful,Crappy,Unreliable, Rusty AutomobileAcura: Automobile Causes Universal Road AccidentsAcura: All Cars Usually Require AdjustmentAcura: Any Child Understands Real AutomobilesAcura: Americans Can Underestimate Routine AccidentsAcura: Another Case of a Useless Requested Acronym?Audi: Accelerates Under Demonic InfluenceBeetle: Battered Everywhere, Expect To Lose EngineBMW: Babbling Mechanical WenchBMW: Beastly Monstrous WonderBMW: Beautiful Masterpieces on WheelsBMW: Beautiful Mechanical WonderBMW: Big Money WasteBMW: Big Money WorksBMW: Blasphemous Motorized WreckBMW: Born Moderately Wealthy.BMW: Break My WindowsBMW: Broken Money WasterBMW: Broken Monstrous WonderBMW: Brutal Money WasterBMW: Bumbling Mechanical WretchBMW: Big Money WasterBMW: Blasphemized Motorized WreckBMW: Bastard Money WieldersBMW: Bowel Movement WagonBuick: Big Ugly Import Car KillerBuick: Big Ugly Indestructible Car KillerBuick: Built Under Inspection of Cooky KoreanCamaro: Can't America Make A Real One?Chevrolet: Car Has Extensive Valve Rattle On Long Extended Trips.Chevorlet: Crappy Hot-Running Engines, Very Rusted Out, Lose Every TimeChevy: Charged HeavilyChevy: Cheapest Heap Ever enVisioned YetChrysler: Car Having Really Yucky Stupid Lazy Engine RunsChrysler: Could Have Remained Your Sickly Lame Elderly Relative'sCitroen: Crap Interior Terrible Road-holding Owned Entirely by NuttersDodge: Dead Or Dying Garbage EmitterDodge: Drips Oil, Drops Grease, EverywhereDodge: Dem Old Dudes Go EverywhereDatsun: Detroit's Angry Towards Sneaky Unscrupulous NipsFiat: F**king Italian Attempt (at) Transportation.Fiat: Failure in Automotive TechnologyFiat: Feeble Italian Attempt at TransportationFiat: Fix It Again Tony?Fiat: Fix It All the TimeFiat: F*ck in a Taxi.Ford: F**ked over rebuilt DodgeFord: F**ker Only Runs DownhillFord: F*cked on Race DayFord: F*cking Over-Rated DisasterFord: F*ckin' Out-Right DangerousFord: First On Recall DayFord: First on race dayFord: Fix Or Repair DailyFord: Found on road deadFord: Fraternal Order of Restored DeSoto'sFord: F*ckin Owner Real Dumb!!Ford: (backwards) Driver Returns On FootGM: General MistakeGMC: Garage Man's CompanionGMC: Generally Mediocre CarsGMC: Get More ChicksGMC: Got More CrapGMC: Grungy MerchandiseGMC: Got Mechanic ComingG.T.I.: Got Tossers InsideHonda: Helping Out Nips Destroying AmericaHonda: How Odd-No Damn AccelerationHonda: Hold Overs Not Doing AnythingHonda: Hell Of a Nice Damn AutomobileHonda: Hand Over Dollars to AsiansJaguar: Jews And Germans Usually Argue RetailJeep: Junk Eletrical and Emissions PartsJeep: Jump Excitedly in Every Pothole.Jeep: Just Eat Every Pickle.Jeep: Junk Everyone Eyes for PartsJeep: Jinxed Engine has Extra PartsJeep: Jumps Everything Ever ParkedMazda: Model All Zoids Drive AimlesslyMopar: Most Often Passed At RacesMopar: Mostly Old Parts And RustMopar: Mostly Old Paint And RustMopar: Making A Zillion Dollars AnnuallyMopar: Mitsubishi's Over Priced American ReplicarsNissan: Now In Some Sh*tty Automobile NightmareNissan: Nasty Import Sucks Savings Away to NipponOldsmobile: Oh Look Dammit, Some Massive Oil Burning Idiot's Leaking EverythingOldsmobile: Old Loose Dented Sheet Metal Outdated By Infamies Like EdselPinto: Put In New Transmission OftenPlymouth: Pontiac Poor old ni**er thinks it's a CadillacPlymouth: Poor Old Nitwit Thinks Its A CadilliacPorsche: Puts Out Really Smoky Carbonate Hazardous EmissionsPorsche: Phased Out Racer-Still Can't Hold EnginePorsche: Please Overlook Really Sh*tty Cardboard Horrible EnginePorsche: Pulled Over Regularly So Cops Have EnoughRenault: Retarded Engine No Acceleration Ugly Lump of TrashSAAB: Stupid, Arrogant _______ BabiesSAAB: Such an arrogant bastard!SAAB: Swedish Automobile - Always BrokenSubaru: Send Undercover Boat And Radioactive UraniumToyota: Taking Our Yen Out -- Thanks AllTriumph: The Risk Involving Useless Machinery Pays HeavilyVW: Very WorthlessSTP: Stop Those Pistons.E.F.I.: Extra F*cking InsuranceBOW TIE: Big Over Weight Tired Impotent EnginesNAPA: Never Any Parts Available.

Notes To all readers do remember this is all said in fun. I can say you can dog on all makes and models of vehicles and find fault with every one of them the only reason most here feel really good about there Dodge's is because of the fact we have figure out how to over come the problems. The same can said about Chevy and Ford owners too so if you find a talented group for them you might hear the same thing...Personally I would say I don't like Fords much at all. But the Chevy's well there nice but since my Dad worked for GM (Van Nuys, CA division) I know all the problem with them too. So really I've been a Dodge owner since day one. Back to have fun...

Heck even between run you can have a variance of 5-10 HP without changes. If your using a filter minder and there is no vacuum (inches of water column) then there should be no losses. But if the filter is dirty and partially plugged up yes there could be some changes. So now my question is to the dyno runner....Q: How much vacuum was on the filter measured in water column?

Ahhh... I thought the steering/brake problem was during the engine running (or because you stalled it)... My Bad. :duh:As for the transmission getting hot they still do even manuals. I typically check my fluid once a month and check the color if the color is darking I typically change it out regardless of the miles. But as for getting hot manuals still can with weight and towing. Like even myself when I'm hauling heavy I never drive faster than 55-60 MPH. Faster you drive the hotter the driveline will get all the way to the axles. More torque means more friction on gears.

Well with the engine off you should be able to place the gear. But if there is still trouble then something is broke in the trans.

Radiator life typically is dictated by the cooling changes and flushing. The only way to get holes in the aluminum is to have the metal rot out from corrosive coolant. As for replacements I think most all radiators will work just fine and have to meet the requirements of pressure and cooling capacity. So beyond that it how well you take care of it. :wink:Dripley your rare case of blowing the tank head completely off.

If the input shaft bearing is truly the problem then it wouldn't matter what gear your in you'll clutch would never disengage. Because the pilot bearing would keep the input shaft twisting regardless of the clutch in or out. Since you got a foul odor from the transmission I would say your most likely running too heavy and too fast got the trans overheated. Something internal most likely failed. (Bearing, etc) Because if the engine dies out after you engage the clutch that means its damaged after the clutch. So you throw out and pilot bearings are good.As for the power steering/Power brakes that is the power steering pump issue. Something failed with one of the pump being either the vacuum pump ahead of it or the P/S pump behind it.

80% of Fords are still on the road but...20% of Fords actually make it home...

Looks like a voltage drop at first start (grid heaters post heating) then the pressure pops up after grid heater shut off. More of electrical issue than a pump.

I agree...We've got to pay our bills... why doesn't the Gov't? He's right just balance the budget...

I like woman that are not afraid to work hard at anything. I don't want a Barbie Doll that is too scared to get dirty. I want a woman with some brains upstairs too. Like I know of a gal lives near me about my age and she is rare to see her outside working. When does does she'll split firewood and some yard work. But rare. The rest of the time she stay cleaned up and pretty. Hates to get dirty.

My current setting are. Flow Offset: 15.5% (still need to calibrate it!) Speed offset: 2% (new tires 235/85 R16)

During my service time of the fire dept. I've learned quite a bit about driving heavy trucks and high profile vehicles in the mountains of Idaho. First few times it will spook you when wind catches the truck or coming down a grade and all that weight is pushing you. All I can say is take example from the big trucks most of them slow down big time in high winds, and travel up and down grades slowly (<35 MPH). Most of our fire trucks are ranging from 15K pounds to over 60K pounds. But you got to remember the length and height of the RV is like the tail wagging the dog. The 2 extra tires might make it a bit more stable... Think about it CajFlynn is towing even bigger boats that are heavier with a bumper pull trailer and does it all with a 3/4 ton truck. I know CajFlynn had invest quite of bit into that truck to make it do what it did. Yeah its a automatic trans but beefed up. Also running smaller 17" tires to keep the stability. etc...

Nevermind my post. :banghead:Thinking 24V stuff...

Typically the rear axle one is the the blame for 99% of all speedometer errors. But being its showing fast only on the Edge Display (assuming here) then I would say the Edge Module has failed you or a wiring issue.

You mean this one... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

Ahh... Are you sure its the PCM (Powertrain Control module)? Because the PCM doesn't control most of that stuff the the only thing it controls alternator. The ECM (Engine Control Module) on the side of the engine controls most all those devices. Sound more like a CCD Bus/Network error. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus What you need to do is take a DVM and check for the bus voltage. You can probe pins 3 and 11 in the OBD socket and reference to ground. So what I mean is if you insert the red probe in the #3 pin the black probe will be in #4. So what I would do is probe the socket looking for the voltages shown most likely be shorted to ground (0 VDC) so I would continue to unplug devices. ABS brakes, Air Bag controller, Radio, Instrument cluster, overhead computer (if equipped), etc.When the signal returns then you know you've found the issue. I would also check for error code because it might clue in on which device that might of failed.

Sure don't live in Riggins, ID now maybe Boise / Kuna area...

He's solely a vendor but he does get his from one of the certified rebuilders.

Welcome to our family. As for the in house 12V expert that would be ISX. You might stir him up with starting a thread in the 12V forum and send a PM with a link to asking for aid. Most of the guys here tend to get busy with the summer and don't seen very active. So give them a friendly poke and I'm sure you can get some help.

Sound like a white knuckle of a trip. :rolleyes:As for the 1 ton the only thing it will do is aid in stability a bit but you'll still experience the wind pushing and pulling. That because of the pure size of the profile. As for the pulling power or transmission that won't change. That was another reason why I chose the manual transmission and a exhaust brake. I knew the purpose of the truck was going to be pulling heavy and auto are just not design for it out of the box.This is one of the few reason I did not opt for a 5th wheel. Because of the overly large profile and typically heavier RV. Question, What is your over length and height Hex? So far I've not recorded any fuel mileage below 13 MPG ever in all 217K miles of the truck life.I don't think so much the truck is to blame it the profile and weight of the RV.

If you made it that far you should be fine...

So it doesn't get lost in the future I added Rogan's write ip to the article database... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/31-exterior/433-clearance-lights-cab-light-install

I'm beyond 200K... If I remember right its 217K miles.