Mopar1973Man

Since I got a RV dump station in my front yard its no big deal for me. I can rinse and clean my tanks all I want. Out in front of the guest house is a sewer clean out which is awesome. I just back in with RV and hook up and dump just like the public dump stations. But I've got all the water in the world so I can dump the tanks, fill with fresh dump again, then add a cup of bleach to all three tanks and fill and let sit over night. Then dump in the morning absolutely no smell at all. Sensors are clean and functional as well. I typically leave the waste valves open and the tanks to dry. The only thing that really gets my goat going is the previous owner didn't keep up on the flushing part so solid waste was crammed in the knife valve seals so the outlet was always full of waste water when you open the cap. (Ewwww! ) So I ended up pulling all 3 knife valves and cleaning the seals and re-installing again. Now they hold tight and no issues. The only thing I'm really really careful about is the potable water tank. That I will sanitize every spring with bleach solution and flush and fill again. I will only fill with water from home after getting sick from filling with city water at a RV park. Never again. It really does suck to go out on a trip and get sick from drink city water. This Idaho boy has been living on good ol' fashion well water for 25 years and just can't drink the city water at all.

Correct the oil has to be filled in the compressor. Typically the PAG oil is sold in a 8 oz bottle. The compressor holds 7.1 if I remember correctly. The tag on the compressor should state the amount in cc's. The fill plug is in the side of the compressor. Just remove the plug and use a small clean funnel to pour the oil in. I added the full 8oz to mine. I spilled maybe 0.2 to 0.5 oz of the oil with the air coming out. But I've been good to go.Double check the lines to see there is no black death in the lines if so then the rest of the system has to be flushed. The flushing solvent is rather expensive.

Like over at the RV forum Gary usually suggest using Rid-X for a treatment for solid waste problems but most people like Dripley use common sense and can keep there tanks fairly clean without buying a bunch of chemicals for the tank. I've personally never used chemicals even while full timing in my older 1976 Dodge Jamboree. Once again just used common sense and rinse the tank with fresh water and started over again. I will admit on warm days the tank can smell rather foul so if your smart after finishing the paperwork then close the lid before flushing I know it hard to tell but at least the smell won't knock you out while flushing.

Ah... Someone sees my logic. This why I run 235/85 R16's for towing. I can get more torque and power to the ground and less heat on the transmission. So the bigger the tires the more stress is placed on the transmission so more heat is generated. 80-90% of my driving is done with these better MPG numbers here. Also for the same reason I've got a set of 265/75 R16 Cooper STT's hidden in the shop for offroad and firewood gathering these give me the traction for slick muddy roads. Only about 10 percent of my road time on these being they cost me roughly 2-3 MPG more to roll them. Just ditching those 285's will gain you everything you looking for. Just remember I'm still running STOCK 3" exhaust, STOCK HX35W turbo, with Edge Comp (5x3) and +50 Injectors which has me really close to the 400 HP mark. No EGT problems here and more than enough power to break the tires loose in 2nd or 3rd gear even hitched up. Your biggest loss is in the tires nothing more. Like my last run less than a week ago. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7737-Back-to-stock-injectors-for-a-short-time?p=75277#post75277

Where are these located? The compressor is on the rear of the engine and I would have a better view of the compressor from inside the cab. When I get time I'll grab a few pictures of the compressor.

Ok. So if your going to be fulltiming in the RV leave the black tank closed till its absolutely full then dump it. If you got a rinse coupling or a wash wand then rinse the tank out well or back fill the tank and dump it again. Another great web site for RV information is http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php which I'm also a staff member off...

If the PCM is damaged I would test the alternator for AC noise just to be sure your not going to cook the new PCM or other electronics.

Cycling on and off is bad. :duh:Even in Sanden manual for the compressor is states it should run solid typically but only cycle up to 1-2 times a minute tops. Constant cycling of the compressor is hard on the clutch and will do damage to it.

I've always been closer to correct with the ScanGauge II for MPG numbers because my odometer is off by 0.5 MPH so in a tank of fuel its closer to being about 20-30 miles off. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7620-Odometer-Accuracy So I still do hand math logging of fuel but I use the ScanGauge II more so for day to day tracking of performance than tank to tank. Why? Because I never end up doing just highway miles empty. I'm always hauling something, trailers, firewood, climbing mountain roads, etc. So tank to tank looks much worse than looking day to day. Because one day running empty I can touch 22-23 MPG easy and the next day haul heavy and barely get 12-13 MPG. But still in all the ScanGauge is a valuable tool for learning how to get the most from the truck MPG wise.

It all goes to the same place here on the property so I continue to use the same old household toilet paper. All the RV is temporarily storing my waste in a tank so later its dumped either at a RV dump station or back at home in the clean out here in the front yard.

Typically you'll see small change for colder weather but warmer weather you might not see much change at all.

02 MAP sensors are discontinued.01 MAP sensors will work just fine on the 02 as long as you have the adapter harness with it. Strange but true the MAP sensors through the 98.5 to 02 changed a few time and also changed pin assignments too so make sure to get the proper connector and not hack into it.

Been down that road not long ago. It takes a huge amount of force to move those things and get them out.

I guess the Fuel Boss is going to start gaining popularity here quickly. I'm glad to hear it working out good for you. I'm just kind of concerned about the heavy drops in pressure I hear from time to time. Is the pressure pretty stable across the span from idle to WOT?

The only thing my OEM stock fuel basket does is hold the fuel tank sender. I've replaced mine once already and not hard at all. But like JAG's post that why I never got into the DrawStraw V series because I knew if I had to mess with that basket it would fall apart later in life. So DrawStraw I was installed and zero issues to date.

Glad to hear you upgrade was worth it. I would suggest grabbing a module at this point and tossing it into the mix and then you'll gain the timing for the MPG's and the control over your fuel. As for the limited membership it will be gone in no time...

Water hammer is a big issue for either mechanical or electric fuel pressure gauges. As long as the gauge or sender is hooked up after the last filter and back away from the VP44 it should last a long time. Big the Bosch VP44 injection pump is the source of the water hammer pulses.

Here is the 4 things that can kill a VP44... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements If you deal with these 4 things you'll get plenty of life from your VP44. I'm heading for 200K miles and plan on many more miles...

I'm going to gamble a guess that there is a a bad ground wire for that circuit somewhere under the dash. As other circuits are used typically weird things like this occur where circuits either come to life or die from bad grounds.

Something is shorted out for sure. The bad part is that all the bulbs are a dead short to a ohm meter so ohm testing is out unless you can unplug all bulbs which I think would be a PITA to do. I would assume starting with a visual inspection of all wiring and see if anything is rubbed through or damaged. Maybe a connector melted a bit?

Fuse, Relay, clockspring, etc... Might even check and see if the horn actually functions hooked directly to the battery. I've seen horns fail this way too.

Sorry for the lag in response. Sneezes about 120 PSI. Just a quick sneeze and about 40-60 seconds later its sneezing again. Pressure stays up the whole time. Any time the engine is running its constantly sneezing.

All too funny...

Then if its still cutting out then I would highly consider changing the low pressure switch. It can be done without losing any freon being its screws on a schrader valve on the accumulator can.

Yes it will constantly keep breaking the circuit. Any pressure below about 30 PSI will cause the system to freeze up hence why the pressure tables for the A/C system. Also I typically charge to a solid 40 PSI on most vehicles.