Mopar1973Man

But why would it run right with the stock injectors and not with the bigger injectors? The the damaged connector tube would most likely repeat the problem regardless of the injectors wouldn't it?

Most likely vacuum pump, tappet cover, or gear case cover would be my 3 guess.As for oil pressure the factory gauge no better than guessing at the pressure if you where to actually measure it you would be shocked at the pressures.

Now I'm even I'm scratching my head...

Taken care of...

Yeap... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNQ6d3ox5Ok

your problem is the 9cm2 turbo exhaust housing creating serious choke point and back pressure why your EGT's are so high.

Racing. Would be a reason for 4" to me.

Sounds like a chipped a gear and the debris ate the rest of the transmission.At this point it up to you on how much money your willing to invest in the trans will tell you if your rebuilding or buying a rebuilt trans.

Do you dim you panel lights? If so that is the reason for the hot headlight switch. If the panel dimmer is all the way up on bright then it never gets hot.

Interesting...

Multi-function switch (dimmer switch) sometimes will burn out causing this problem.

You can look at the DOT information on the tire to get the week/year on the tire and know how old it really is. Like this tire was manufactured in the 51st week of 2007.

No kidding... That should be their problem.

Some models I've seen where there is a test port at the inlet of the filter housing and then the second port on the inlet of the VP44.

Hunting for more information I found the page of where the picture came from. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_engine

All tires should be replaced in 5 year period. But no... ST tires have just as much shelf life as any other tire. It just most people abuse the tires with too much weight, too fast of speed, under/over inflated tire pressures, etc. So ST's tend to get a bad rap for failures. After running 3 years on ST's on my truck and never had a single failure not even a flat tire it just proves that if you do you homework and purchase the proper tire for the purpose it will not fail regardless if it a ST tire or not. A matter of fact I kept the use ST tires for spares...

$7,999 you stole that RV for that price! :spend:So your repair list is rather short.

Heck... To transfer the plate from the old trailer to the BigTex was only $5 bucks. When I register the trailer again in 2014 a 10 Year tag is only $28-$32 bucks If I remember right. Last year registration for the 2002 Dodge and including plates. Registration .............. $24.00 Plate ....................... $6.00 EMS ........................ $1.25 ISP ......................... $3.00 Admin. .................... $3.00 Mail ........................ $0.50 TOTAL ..................... $37.75 It's cheaper living in Central Idaho...

I'm thankful of living in Idaho there is only 2 highways in the state with speeds up at 75 MPH. Most other roads are 55-65 MPH. As for the ST tire it going to be tough to beat being that switching to LT (Light Truck) tire the weight capacity typically goes down but the speed rating goes up then visa-vera with ST (Special Trailer) tire where the weight capacity goes up and the speed rating goes down. Now there is more ST tires typically have stronger side wall construction compared to LT which is not designed for scrubbing of the tires when turning tight with dual or triple axles which ST is designed for. You could spend more money and get a better speed rated tire like a Q Speed rating (99 MPH) but of course it going to be more expensive. I personally loved my previous set of tires on my truck they where a set of Solid-Trac by Voma which where ST Tires (ST 235/85 R16's) with a weight capacity of 3,750# at 110 PSI and they where a Load Range G tire (14 ply) with a Speed Rating of Q (99 MPH). Now find that tire in a 15" for your size and your set forever! http://www.bigotires.com/Tire-Detail/VOMA/SOLID-TRAC-RADIAL-A-S-TRAILER/23024

No. That is the job of the fuel filter to prevent any debris from ever reaching that point because if so that means the injection pump has been eating dirt/debris too and it not going to live long either.

There is a very little change going to 4" exhaust the actually restriction is from the turbo not so much the pipe. IMHO...

Here is what I watch typically. InciWeb... http://www.inciweb.org/state/13/ Or the map version. Esri.com... http://www.esri.com/services/disaster-response/wildlandfire/latest-news-map

Ok. Just for you CSM Connector tube (or crossover tube) is the tube that connects the high pressure line to injector. Inside the crossover tube is a filter called a edge filter. This filter takes small debris particles and beats then in the funnel shaped V's till the debris is small enough to pass-through the injector. On 12V's the edge filter is part of the injector body.

For a small price I would just change all four tires on the trailer knowing that they are equal sized and equal load capacity. I wouldn't suggest mixing age of tires (new vs. old) and mixing sizes. Like I've got just cheap ST Tires on the RV now and understand they are a 65 MPH limit tire. Knowing this I will not travel faster than 55 MPH with the RV in tow. Not worth damaging the RV or having blowout from pushing the tires to the breaking limit of blowout. I will typically check hub and tire temps when I stop for fuel or to rest. So I'm always aware of tire and axle condition. As for trailer axles I pack the bearings by hand every spring of the year. I only paid $350 for all four tires on the RV. TowMax S/T (225/75 R15) I'm in my 3rd year on them and zero problems!

Like I'll admit I just done a camping trip up north with my RV. Climbed several 7% grades (Whitebird, ID., Lewiston, ID., Deary, ID., etc.) Did it all with the RV loaded with everything including water. I will admit I could of done 4th gear on most of the grades but the amount of heat that was creating was more than my liking. Remember our temperature up here have been in the range of 95-105*F. So I would back down to 3rd Gear @ 35 MPH and walk over the grades without a single issue (195*F coolant 950-1,000 EGT's). All I got is the +50HP injectors, Edge Comp (5x3), HX35W Turbo, Straight pipe 3", and BHAF. I don't see a reason for upgrading your turbo like Wild & Free mentions there is a lot that can be done with a stock turbo. I treat my truck like a 80K pound semi. "Slow and Low that is the tempo" is what I tell myself and I always get to my destination. I follow along with all the semi-truck traffic.