Mopar1973Man

That where we differ... I don't worry about holding speed limit up a grade I don't mind slowing down to take my time. That where on the racing side you would be looking into the intake temps and such. But I don't race. Even in stock form back in 2004 when I bought my gauges... No Edge Comp, factory cold air air box, no injectors, etc. I was still able to pass over 1,400*F with a trailer in tow climbing 7% grades. I could push the coolant temp well up into the 210-215 area without thinking but that is racing foot mashed to the floor trying to tow over a grade in fully stock form. So again it comes back to daily driver, racing and extreme end would be full abuse. I've try putting back on the stock box and looking for change in intake temps or EGT's there is none for me. I don't see any changes in IAT or EGT's at all between stock cold air and BHAF once again in daily driver. But again I don't drive with 30-35 PSI of boost for miles but only in short burst. I typically only see 2-8 PSI so like I said before I don't generate huge amounts of turbo heat like you would with you foot planted to the floor for several miles pulling a grade. The only time I tend to get a bit abusive to the truck is during fire calls I do run 70-75 MPH roughly in a 65 MPH, I do pass vehicle planted to the floor and can see EGT's cresting 1,200-1,300*F but once again short burst and it drops back to 800-1,000*F and still hauling down the pavement to the fire call. This could be a cold start in the middle of the night. So to go from dead cold no warm up and hauling at 70-75 MPH yeah just a bit abusive. Even the bigger Cummins 400 I drive that weighs 65,000 pound in stock form if driven too hard in the wrong gear can really make that coolant temp rise up fast. It's also turbo charged non-intercooled no gauges either boost or pyro but I can bet that EGT's are high as hell if you try to mat the throttle going up a steep mountain road racing as seen by the coolant temp. Once again I grab a gear that has a good power level for the load and hold the R's at about 2K and let her climb at her own rate not try to force it to speed up and grab another gear that might be just too tall for the load. Again another sign of racing again. But again dump the 4,000 gallons of water (33,360 pounds) now you can race up the canyon roads almost 2 gears higher than loaded. All based on load.

I would for the fun of it have the stock injectors pop tested and see if there is a serious difference in the stock vs. new injectors and see what the pop pressure are for both batches. But if both are popping at the same pressure them injectors wouldn't be the cause.

I'm glad to hear it worked out for you.

I had a parking brake cable fail and rust solid. It wasn't hard at all to replace. But then had it start to rust up again. So pull that cable out hung it and feed oil from one end to the other now it work absolutely perfect. Soft pedal locks the rear tires up to a skid when I plant that parking brake.

Hang on a second gang. We keep discussing racing or WOT values of intake temperature and such. Most of us have daily drivers that don't tow and drive sensibility at posted speed limits. Like myself here locally the speeds are 55-65 MPH respectively. I might be at 15-20% of throttle, 600-700*F EGT, and 2-8 PSI of boost. Ok. So how much is heat going to effect it? Not much being there is little to no compressor heat generation, intercooler is way big enough at those values to handle that little bit of heat. Ok. So now a WOT passing operation which last at the most 30 seconds so it not exactly perfect but we don't drive WOT operation like racing/dyno operation as a daily driver. Like trailer towing yeah I got some good serious grades around me but never had extreme intake temps even with the stock IAT placement. I don't run 30-35 PSI climbing grades more like 20-25 PSI tops which is still close to stock values. Even pulling over Whitebird I was geared down took my time looking at 1,000*F at about 20-25 PSI of boost. My highest IAT was 148*F ever but still within the +40*F normal for offset vs. outside temp. But that was being foolish and climbing in too high of gear and pushing. Yes now if your in the racing/dyno game them YES. I fully agree you have to highly consider the intake temp, boost pressures, and everything else because it does have a huge impact of performance out. But back to the daily driver. Which I keep looking at my ScanGauge II which is now calibrated to my +50 HP injectors (only off 0.5%) I'm seeing 23-26 MPG for my daily travels. So does high intake temps (120-140*F) hurt MPG performance? No. Not that I'm seeing with empty truck daily travel going to and from McCall, ID and other local towns.

You got to remember there is a gap running along the edge of the hood where air blows in over the top of the BHAF on the 2nd Gen's like my last RV run to Heyburn Park in Plummer, ID I was seeing roughly 30-35*F offset from outside. The only time IAT crawled up in temp was crawling through towns at 20-25 MPH. The most I've every seen on IAT was 148*F. But that was while crawling around Lewiston,ID at 25 MPH in city streets.

But why would it run right with the stock injectors and not with the bigger injectors? The the damaged connector tube would most likely repeat the problem regardless of the injectors wouldn't it?

Most likely vacuum pump, tappet cover, or gear case cover would be my 3 guess.As for oil pressure the factory gauge no better than guessing at the pressure if you where to actually measure it you would be shocked at the pressures.

Now I'm even I'm scratching my head...

Taken care of...

Yeap... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNQ6d3ox5Ok

your problem is the 9cm2 turbo exhaust housing creating serious choke point and back pressure why your EGT's are so high.

Racing. Would be a reason for 4" to me.

Sounds like a chipped a gear and the debris ate the rest of the transmission.At this point it up to you on how much money your willing to invest in the trans will tell you if your rebuilding or buying a rebuilt trans.

Do you dim you panel lights? If so that is the reason for the hot headlight switch. If the panel dimmer is all the way up on bright then it never gets hot.

Interesting...

Multi-function switch (dimmer switch) sometimes will burn out causing this problem.

You can look at the DOT information on the tire to get the week/year on the tire and know how old it really is. Like this tire was manufactured in the 51st week of 2007.

No kidding... That should be their problem.

Some models I've seen where there is a test port at the inlet of the filter housing and then the second port on the inlet of the VP44.

Hunting for more information I found the page of where the picture came from. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_engine

All tires should be replaced in 5 year period. But no... ST tires have just as much shelf life as any other tire. It just most people abuse the tires with too much weight, too fast of speed, under/over inflated tire pressures, etc. So ST's tend to get a bad rap for failures. After running 3 years on ST's on my truck and never had a single failure not even a flat tire it just proves that if you do you homework and purchase the proper tire for the purpose it will not fail regardless if it a ST tire or not. A matter of fact I kept the use ST tires for spares...

$7,999 you stole that RV for that price! :spend:So your repair list is rather short.

Heck... To transfer the plate from the old trailer to the BigTex was only $5 bucks. When I register the trailer again in 2014 a 10 Year tag is only $28-$32 bucks If I remember right. Last year registration for the 2002 Dodge and including plates. Registration .............. $24.00 Plate ....................... $6.00 EMS ........................ $1.25 ISP ......................... $3.00 Admin. .................... $3.00 Mail ........................ $0.50 TOTAL ..................... $37.75 It's cheaper living in Central Idaho...

I'm thankful of living in Idaho there is only 2 highways in the state with speeds up at 75 MPH. Most other roads are 55-65 MPH. As for the ST tire it going to be tough to beat being that switching to LT (Light Truck) tire the weight capacity typically goes down but the speed rating goes up then visa-vera with ST (Special Trailer) tire where the weight capacity goes up and the speed rating goes down. Now there is more ST tires typically have stronger side wall construction compared to LT which is not designed for scrubbing of the tires when turning tight with dual or triple axles which ST is designed for. You could spend more money and get a better speed rated tire like a Q Speed rating (99 MPH) but of course it going to be more expensive. I personally loved my previous set of tires on my truck they where a set of Solid-Trac by Voma which where ST Tires (ST 235/85 R16's) with a weight capacity of 3,750# at 110 PSI and they where a Load Range G tire (14 ply) with a Speed Rating of Q (99 MPH). Now find that tire in a 15" for your size and your set forever! http://www.bigotires.com/Tire-Detail/VOMA/SOLID-TRAC-RADIAL-A-S-TRAILER/23024