Mopar1973Man

Another great video on how engine blocks are made.

Something I stumbled across on Youtube and figured its worth sharing.

Corrected link. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=220

Haven't yet. At least on the 96 Dodge...My 02 is solid axle which is another option to to forcibly lock the axle and leave it locked. There is no real big loss in MPG's with locked really.

Oil Leaks locations [*]Front crank seal [*]Rear Crank seal [*]Tappet cover gasket (or AKA cam cover gasket) [*]Vacuum pump [*]Valve cover gasket (rare) [*]Turbo drain (hose connection) Vacuum leaks As for vacuum lines for the plastic just remove them and flex the line in a big arc and if the line is crack it will continue to crack or break when you bow the plastic because it just plan brittle from age. I just grab some vinyl tubing and replaced all the lines on MoparMom's 96 Dodge for the same issue. Other than that the vacuum pump becomes a air compressor and imitates blow by issues. Personal note: I need to catch you phone call I'll be home tonight!

Hey gang... Let put THRacing and Rogan into our prayers that they both can over come their medical issues that they are both having! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7714-re-dad?p=73450#post73450

Vacuum pump blow by is typically created by a vacuum leak in one of the hoses. Broken or cracked piece of plastic tube, harden rubber connectors, etc.I would look at the simple stuff first before yanking put the vacuum pump and power steering box combo to rebuild that vacuum pump. Unless you have a oil leak there too. All diesel engines will have a certain amount of blow by but my rule of thumb is as long as the blow by isn't serve enough to blow oil out the breather tube your fine.

I don't think that going to work being he might have a sucking air leak downstream.

DANGER! DANGER! THE FUEL INJECTION PUMP SUPPLIES EXTREMELY HIGH FUEL PRESSURE TO EACH INDIVIDUAL INJECTOR THROUGH THE HIGH-PRESSURE LINES. FUEL UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE THE SKIN AND CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING AND AVOID CONTACT WITH FUEL SPRAY WHEN BLEEDING HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES. WARNING: ENGINE MAY START WHILE CRANKING STARTER MOTOR. This goes a long with this thread. WARNING! Very graphic nature http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/6090-Hydraulic-Injection-Injury?highlight=injection+injury

Yes... If your going that far you might as well change it out and get a new one. Yours is most likely plugged up with dirt and gunk. You'll see when you pull it out.

Should be a sticker under the hood, in the glove box and the steel tag on the diff. In the glove box of the 02 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1539&d=1301768538 Under the hood on the 96..

... Remember it should spit that fairly forceful that VP44 is trying to reach 4,500 PSI just for a idle so if its just dribbling you know you either have air in the system or the VP44 injection pump is not doing so great.

You might have fuel pressure but if the pump is pushing air into the system then it will stall out every time because air will compress and VP44 won't be able to reach pop pressure so it will stall out. Just because you so fuel pressure make sure you not push a bunch of foam or air too. VP44 just don't like air period.

I rather have a true FLAT bed without all the extra metal sides and added weight. Flatbed should be lighter not heavier than the stock box. Even my old 1972 Dodge Power Wagon had a lighter flat bed than the stock box.

Sorry to hear about this. Tell your Dad we are behind saying prayers for him.

Guys are right. As long as they all are just a bit tight I would would chalk it up to a overzealous adjustment. Range of allowance.Exhaust - 0.015 to 0.030Intake - 0.006 to 0.015As long as its between these number you good still. Like I using 0.008 and 0.018 for intake and exhaust.

Fuel pressure (idle, cranking, and WOT at highway speed)?Error codes?I would consider re-doing the drawstraw right. That would help a bunch on your problems being it acts like its losing prime because of the bad drawstraw. Or other plumbing issues allowing air to leak back in. Being you have no fuel pressure at start up this points to a air leak more than a VP44 issue.

Synthetics are not required. I can get down to -25 to -30*F during the winter with standard petroleum Power steering fluid without a issue. Don't let the synthetic go to your head thinking it goes farther. Make sure you still change the power steering fluid ever 30K miles because the power steering system doesn't have a filter in it so if there is debris it will be pump through the system like it out not.

Start the truck and let idle for a minute or so and then shutdown and check. Check with it cold and hasn't moved its not a good way to check it. Even mine is solid like a brick if the engine has not ran. But after the engine has been ran the oil in the fan clutch is moved around a bit and should feel free then. In the dead of winter I get a locked fan for the first 30-60 seconds of run time and then the oil flows in the clutch and the fan unlocks.

Well I'm back from the jet boat races. I was manning a safety boat so if there was any wrecks, stalls, etc. We could get out on the river and save the boat crew and the boat if possible. So this year 1 boat wrecked on test and tune day (Friday). He broke his steering and launch right up the river bank and rolled it back into the water. Both driver and navigator were fished out of the boat. The navigator got a bit injured and is at Boise, ID in the hospital. Then on Saturday races started and where quite fun to watch happen from the river bank. We had two jet boats power by Jet Turbine from helicopters. Average speed of the course was about 120-125 MPH clearing 8 miles of river in about 3.9 to 4 minutes. Remember this is not straight river or flat water. Where I was stationed at. http://goo.gl/maps/VQrdr Facebook page of it. https://www.facebook.com/SalmonRiverJetBoatRaces The link provided give you a good view of the river course which started at Island Bar and went to Lucile, ID. Still on Saturday we had another boat sink to the bottom of the river. Driver was getting hosed by the leading boat roost coming off the lead boat. Sunk that at time zone bridge. Even after Sunday our crew went down to see if we can even spot the boat. No luck the hole is deep and the water is murky. Saturday night I got into fire turnouts and took a jet boat ride across the river and watch the fireworks. We where setup to chase fire if the stray spark or rocket created a problem. No problems so we just enjoyed the show. Sunday was a quick day with 2 up river runs and 2 down river runs. Rather uneventful and relaxing. Knowing that all this mess was going to pack up and bail out of town ASAP. I just stayed camped in town for the night in the RV. No since getting into the mess with the rest of the fools rushing home. It was nice to haul my RV down to Kelly's Grandma's house and park it there and it made it so easy to get back and forth to the safety boat which was a little more than a mile away. Then being able to just walk town and enjoy the sights. I've got some videos off Kelly's smart phone since I was forgetful and forgot all my camera all together. :banghead: So give me some time to get it compiled and posted. Oh some of you were asking about Kelly he's a member here. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/172-Taz

Could be a bunch of things going on. The coolant is leaking out of the heater core and running out the A/C drain and dribbling down the firewall back into the cab. Could be the A/C just draining back in and the coolant is leaking else where. But I'm going to bet it the heater core yet and just draining in the cab and you just can't see it from the driver view...

Also I never using thread sealants or thread tape on automotive plumbing it might of distorted the fitting causing the leak as well. Like Wild & free had said it might of been over tighten and distorted a fitting too.

Time to change fluid. Power steering fluid or ATF in your case will break down over time and require flushing the system now and then. As for the older 24V's its every 30K miles. As for getting it done check out AH64ID article. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/53-engine-system/119-power-steering-flush

I'm not that good... As for stock fan clutches they are fine. If they perform as design they have very little if any impact on MPG's. Because once the engine is running and the fan clutch is fully unlock you should be able to stop the fan with a old radiator hose at idle. Electric fans typically have been reported to flow less air than the mechanical fan does. You might be taking the load off the belt at the OEM fan but you'll be putting load back on the belt again at the alternator. So a fan is a fan basically. As long as a the cooling system and the fan clutch is working properly there should be no load on the engine as long as the coolant temps are below 205*F typically by 205-208*F I hear mine going into full lock up and now you drawing HP from the engine.

Seem you follow my 5 MPG loss rule for every 10 MPH. But there is no way I can touch your numbers...55 MPH - 22-23 MPG AVG65 MPH - 16-18 MPG AVG75 MPH - 13-15 MPG AVGNearly 200K worth of fuel mileage data.Video