Mopar1973Man

... or pull the IOD fuse out and not worry. There is a reason why Dodge designed the fuse with that funky clip so you can pull the fuse out and cut the power so not to drain the batteries. Batteries will naturally discharge over time still so you will need a trickle charger to maintain the charge state. Personally I like the RV converters because after 24 hour it will re-bulk the batteries back up full and reduce the charge rate again to 13.2V or so to keep the water lost down. But still in all all batteries will lose water if hooked to a battery charger so you'll have to check the batteries once a month.

Give ISX a PM nudge and he should have some answers to these pump numbers.

If you plug the crankcase vent at all you build up even pressure in the crankcase to blow out the main seals or a tappet cover gasket. This is why the crankcase vent is that a VENT to keep the pressure from building up.

LCACN (Mike) happens to be a member over from IdahoTurboDiesels.com... Welcome to the family as well Mike hopefully on of these days we'll cross paths down there in the Boise area. Just so other family members know there is a bit of mutual exchange between Idaho Turbo Diesels and Mopar1973Man since I help them maintain the site software, so in exchange I get to advertise Mopar1973Man.Com over there and IdahoTurboDiesels.com is welcomed to advertise events and dinner meets over here... So for all you Idaho people you might want to wander over to IdahoTurboDiesels.com and take a peek at what is happening in the great state of Idaho.Once again Welcome LCACN (Mike)...

Maybe... I've never exactly tried it.

As for rotating the pump around to get the keyway up you can just use the alternator nut. Ratchet handle will turn towards the coolant bottle. As for loosen/tighten the nut I've always just left it in gear and set the brake and never had a problem. I highly suggest you just torque the nut to proper torque and skip the loc-tite. As for bleeding the system is easy. Just loosen 1,3,4 and crank till either you see spray from the driver seat or you hear it bump a cylinder. Then tighten up then lines and start. I do all my work typically solo on my truck from bleed fuel system to bleeding brakes.

Another site I've got my hand in... www.smartresource.com www.smartresource.net Give these guys a crack really good information on the Smarty programmers. Note: the site was down with a MySQL server issue last time I checked it 07/07/2013 so it should be noticed by Monday morning and dealt with.

I've heard that too about floating a sync'ed trans. But also heard of several people floating gears and doing it for a very long time without problems. But I tend to agree with Mr Mindless that being Dodge installed the clutch and syncro's it best to shift using the clutch as designed. Like myself I've floated a few gears in my time in my truck but don't make a habit out of it.

How hard is that to load and unload? I've seen plenty of vintage slide in campers with jacks that fold up or the camper fell over. Matter of fact there was a camper left behind in the wood up here for that reason. It appears they try to unload it the jack failed and fell over in its side ruining the camper. I assume the owner couldn't get it up right again so he left it in the forest. Well never the less the snow came and crushed it so now it for sure ruined. This was some time ago but I never forgot it.

Electrical gauge tend to loose calibration and accuracy with age so after a 1-2 year and hook up a mechanical gauge you notice a 2-5 PSI difference possibly. Some have been better than other and some failed within months of installing. Dennhop is right a needle valve is required with ALL fuel pressure gauges be it mechanical, electrical or digital. Water hammer is still preduced by the injection pump (VE, P7100, VP44, CP3, etc) so you got to protect the gauge regardless from water hammer. So 2 things locate the gauge as far back from the injection pump but forward of the last filter and install and set a needle valve so it dampen the pulses.Thing is mechanical gauge will continue to work even when the rest of the truck doesn't. Where a electric gauge requires good ground for both sender and gauge to work properly then electricity to power the gauge and sender to show the fuel pressure.

I nearly did just that for my truck when I was RV shopping. But when I was thinking about it slide0in camper are no better than a motorhome. How so? Well like the motorhome I had you set up camp and get comfy and day or two want to leave camp and go somewhere. Now you got to pack up everything inside and outside then you could leave. But now with the travel trailer I unhitch set up and leave home park and now drive the truck around.So the bonus to the slide is that its smaller and lighter and less impact on MPG's to extent. But you have less room and water/waste holding. Also depends on your usage as well. Like MoparMom said your slide in camper would be awesome for a weekend warrior that does hunting camps.

When you pull the sender out just unplug the sender from inside the sender. Then pull the locking tab out of the plug and the assemble the new sender into the same two ports in the plug. snap the sender to the base and plug back in. I can change them in under 1 hour that includes pumping the tank dry and dropping the tank.

Put it back together and see if it will work under load.

Yeah... I called a friend last night in Louisiana (Towhungerford) and asked him as well. Told me the same thing. Just use the clutch for starting and stopping the truck. From there on out forget that clutch is there. Even he suggested against double clutching and suggest floating all gears.It seem there is going to be maybe 3-4 people capable of driving this truck. :duh:Well at least its a Cummins and I've got no problem driving one of those...

Here you go... This is the replacement sender. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/236-fuel-gauge-replacement-sender

Stock to mild mod...0 to 35 PSI boost gauge0 to 30 PSI fuel pressure gauge0 to 1,600*F Pyrometer gaugeBoost gauge will cover the usable span of a stock turbo. A stock Hx35 turbo is good for 0-35 PSI.Fuel pressure gauge should be mechanical and with a needle valve. 0-30 PSI is fine because normal pressure is 14-20 PSI for these truck and should not drop below 10 PSI ever.Pyrometer gauge 0-1,600*F is typical. Most will say 1,200*F is top limit. You can pass this for a short span but keep it to seconds. ISS Pro, Westach and Autometer are the three common gauges now. I wish that Dipricol still existed...

Relays are not the only ones that produce this issue too. How about the vacuum valve on the Jacobs exhaust brake. That solenoid has enough surge to blow up LED lighted switches or standard bulb lights switches in about 10-20 cycles of the exhaust brake. So relay is one spot but not the only.But still with all this I've never had a ECM/PCM issue as of yet? I've got cooking summer heat like other areas of the country yes I've seen 112*F in Riggins, ID already this summer at a friends place. My ECM is mounted like every one else's. Just like I've only lost one VP44 to fuel pressure back at 50K miles. But never lost a VP44 to electronic failure or heat failure as of yet.Food for thought...

Wow! That amazing to fit all that in one small slide in camper. Funny I've got my 31' travel trailer which stand just as tall as your slide in camper. I imagine the slide is really helpful and makes more room for moving around. My old 1976 Dodge Jamboree was the same for a bathroom. No bigger than a phone booth and had you toilet, shower stall, and bathroom sink all crammed in that tiny space. It was a nice RV for its time but I sure enjoy the newer Jayco sitting in the back yard...

Suggestion. Make the pipe long enough that it would fit over the plant completely. Also I would suggest 4" pipe vs. 3" that I used. Then I would drive it down at least 5-6 inches if possible and hopes to twist off the sod plug. Most of mine won't do it so I had to reach down and pry the plug up with my fingers. Here is what I meant about looking at the neighbors... My delicious raspberries are just getting ripe. Blackberries are still behind... So is the blue berries... Then home sweet home... Something for Rogan to drool over...

P1594 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/220-p1594-charging-system-voltage-too-high P0463 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/189-p0463-fuel-level-sending-unit-volts-too-high P1492 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/218-p1492-ambient--battery-temp-sensor-too-high Run the tests to hopefully aid in finding the issue. I would check all the tubing for oily dirt and clean everything out. As for the compressor side of the turbo just pull the outlet tube and the use your favorite degreaser. I would prefer to pull the turbo and remove the compressor housing so to clean the housing properly and the compressor wheel with like a paint brush and solvent. I would build a boost leak cap place it on the turbo and pressurize the air system with 10-15 PSI and listen for leaks. It could be a simple bolt is missing to a boot the slipped off some what.

Well Gang... Our local fire department purchased 4,000 gallon water tender. It's a 1984 Kenworth Water Truck. It's got a Eaton/Fuller 9 speed transmission. So far I got a quick lesson from one of my fire fighter in my station. I've mastered the up shifting just fine but down shifting I tend to get stuck. So maybe there is a few gents here that done some big rigs that can school me up on shifting this beast. I got to admit its a wonderful water truck (Cummins Big Cam 400) it climbs steep mountain grades with a full load water without even struggling. I've just spent 2 days driving it around loading water tanks.So could some one give me some pointers... This is what I found...

That's a nice looking slide in camper. Curious does it have a bathroom and tanks (water and waste)?

Good! I rather have a yard of raspberries than looking at all the neighbor garbage piled up next to the fence. At least you can eat the product of the this bush. where the bushes we have now at the fence line are slow to leaf out in the spring and we lost a few bushes. So I'm going to replace it with raspberries and then there is more to eat. * Raspberries - Red and Gold * Cherries - Pie and Bing * Pears * Apples - Washington, Macintosh, Golden Delicious, and a few others. * Blue Berries * Black Berries * Lost - Peach tree * Lost - Nectarine tree

I know Mopar is still selling new units from the dealer but price is premium for them. What is strange is the few people I've talk to about getting rebuilder to do the work on a ECM about 90% of the time I keep hearing about a chip that is no longer produced or can't be purchased. That still get me stratching my head about that. Why is it that Mopar is still selling new ECM's but a rebuilder can't purchase the same chips to rebuild it?

How about a common failure like starter contacts? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/124-starter-contact-replacement