Mopar1973Man

I loved being passed by other vehicles. Because the rare chance I catch one in a fuel station and talk to them typically they are blown away by the MPG numbers I put down with a 7,500# vehicle vs. there little rice rocket. Then after as they make several stops, food, bathroom or for fuel and the owner trying to figure why he's got to pass my slow truck again. Which I didn't need to stop for fuel since I'm not wasting driving fast. I'm still ahead of them... Back to the hare and the turtle race again. Tires and gear are the ultimate way of getting the most MPG's. But some are just hard set on the big heavy tires and 4.10 gears. Your truck and your money... What can I say?

So far I've techinically moved only once. From Mission Hills, CA to New Meadows, ID.But I've livied in RV's as well at different jobs sites and such. Managed a motel from a RV, worked at auto body shop from a RV, even washed dishes at a restruant living in a RV. As for home. There is no place other like it.

Shouldn't mix products. 2 Cycle Oil is a cetane reducer and PS Diesel Kleen is a Cetane booster = Negated out boh products. 2 cycle oil is a lubricity enhancer and PS Diesel Kleen is a solvent base injector cleaner = Negated out both products. So you basely been wasted money on both products. This is one of the reason I highly suggest using one product and never mixing. HFRR test shows bit of what I'm saying...

I did some more measuring and testing for the MPG crowd. Before I start I will say that I just verified my SGII and its right close to being on the money (off by 0.2 gallons). I'll assume that a slight error between the ScanGauge and the fuel pump. Now I my truck conditions are Edge set for 5x3, IAT fooled to 143*F, Engine coolant varied from 188*F to 197*F, winter fronts still on. Actual weather was high of 65*F (actual IAT was ~90-105*F) Now since I was on I-84 down in southern Idaho today I figure I open the beast up and let it fly low for once. So I set the cruise for 75 MPH and reset the current MPG counter and measure for about 20 miles of highway. I was pulling roughly ~13 MPG. Then after shopping in Nampa, ID and got back on the same stretch of highway again and set my cruise this time for 65 MPH then reset the ScanGauge II again and measured about 20 miles of highway again. I turned out ~18 MPG. Then even with all the playing driving fast and slower I still pulled in the yard with a total of 22 MPG. So from this rough measurement I found that roughly for every 10 MPH above 55 MPH I lose roughly 5 MPG. This is calculated numbers here. According to Google Maps its 300 miles round trip what I drove. Time to travel distance 300 miles / 55 MPH = 5.4 Hours 300 miles / 65 MPH = 4.6 Hours (0.8 hours less than 55 MPH) 300 miles / 75 MPH = 4.0 Hours (0.6 hours less than 65 MPH, 1.4 Hours less than 55 MPH) Amount of fuel consumed 300 miles / 21 MPG = 14.2 Gallons (@ 55 MPH - not a true 55 MPH because of testing) 300 miles / 18 MPG = 16.6 Gallons (@ 65 MPH) 300 miles / 13 MPG = 23.0 Gallons (@ 75 MPH) Cost difference @ $4.019 Gallon (which I paied for) 14.2 Gallons x $4.019 = $57.06 16.6 Gallons x $4.019 = $66.71 ($9.65 more than 55 MPH) 23.0 Gallons x $4.019 = $92.43 ($25.72 more that 65 MPH, $35.41 more than 55 MPH) Another tidbit. I get the same MPG's towing my RV at 55 MPH than I do driving empty at 75 MPH. Also the fuel consumption rate at 75 MPH is just about the same as climibng a 5% to 6% grade at 55 MPH. This shows that amount of rolling resistance and wind drag differences between 55 and 75 MPH.

Firefox has a bunch of plugins like Noscript, Click and Clean, etc. They are all helpful but at time can create issues to so check your plugins on Firefox make sure something isn't blocking site. I know there is a few areas that use Java to create effects or do basic options.

What OS are you using?Is Java up to date?Is your Firefox up to date? FireFox 19.0.2 works fine...Any firefox plugins?

As for the PCM I'm not sure but I know the ECM can be reflashed to work. :think:

I tend to agree with Will... I'm using RV2575 injectors and my stock HX35W turbo and not having any issues with EGT's... Even towing...

You could rebuild you own hydrobooster. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild

Personally I suggest dropping the idea of electronic gauges and going back to true mechanical gauges. Because at least then you got a set of guage that don't rely on electricity, senders, or data bus to display informartion. Like my 3 gauge I got now boost, pyrometer, and fuel pressure work even when the truck doesn't. Like my Scangauge II is slow to update and is only as accurate as the senders and ECM. Also ScanGauge II doesn't function if there is no electricity, no data bus functions, etc.

I would put a new temp sensor in the transmission and do it right the first time than band-aid the sensor with resistor.I really can't talk being I've created the high idle and MPG fooler based on resistors fooling the ECM. But the reason I suggest replacement is because not knowing thee proper value of the trans temp and what its reporting to the PCM is not good without some research on what might happen at what values.

I go out and earn a living every day. But this takes the cake someone can live on food stamps and buy this with food stamps?!?! I don't get to eat this good. This receipt was found in a parking lot by a person on facebook.

Didn't on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. I drilled a hole in the bottom and beat the cat stuffing out of it. Then welded the hole shut again. Since there is no smog inspection up here I'm not worried. Also no lights or codes on a gasser engine. As for the diesel I would remove it take a rod to it break it out and re-install the empty can. They can inspect all they want it will still be there but guttless...

Those things should be replaceable maybe at a part store...

Might for Caj's weight class of towing... But even my straight 3" has been a really good exhaust system and no EGT's problems for about 16,000 to 17,000 Gross combined. But once again its a bit loud getting into the pedal. Wow... Geez I hope if fixes my bum left knee I dislocated years ago. Boy it would take a aweful lot to make a redneck like me attractive.

Like myself I've been locking down the homestead more and doing simple things to protect my property. barring the windows, locking both houses up at night, shutting the gate and keeping it shut, then locking it when we leave. The gate. That's been a nice thing. So far what it does is give me time to notice someone coming. The dog goes nuts barking at whom ever is out there. At that point I can open the door and let the dog go. If you don't belong you might not want to face the dog. If you do belong the dog will great you at the gate. Then as for the truck I'm going to be securing the truck down with hidden kill switches and hose clamping the tail gates. Typically when we travel the dog is with us so I seriously doubt anyone want to mess with a smiling Dobbie in the front seat of the truck.I've gotten in the habit now of packing my 9mm pistol as well. I rarely leave the property without it now. Even quick things like run to town for fuel I still pack it. Also with local travel in the Idaho County I carry my fire radio with me. Like some of you mention about bad element. I've dealt with in a different way. There is a old saying "Keep your friends close and your enemies even closer". Let's say I've got a good communication with the local seedy elements around here and they know who I am and what I do. They also know don't mess with my family, property, or me. Since they know I've got ties with the county sheriff and the local fire dept they know its a losing battle to try something here.Now like travelling to big cities to pick up supplies. Well that is another story in its own. I'm typically in another mode completely. MoprMom knows it. I tend to act like that deer than just heard that twig snap. Then in stores or even parking lots I tend to be scoping out the place looking around me and paying attention to people. Some people you get good vib's from and say, "Hello" as you pass and other that give off that red flag tend to make you dip the brim of your hat a bit to cover your eyes as you watch this person off the edge of the brim.What is so great is coming back how to absolutely nothing but the woods. I'm completely happy be out in the woods. I can handle just about anything out there but throw me in the bigger cities I'm just a wee bit on guard these days...

Typically I hear mine lock up by 205-210*F. Once it locks it will pull the temp down to about 203*F then unlock.

Ummm... That's the problem. The site is PHP script not a HTML page. So being its PHP you typically bound to the PHP controls given in the software. So I'm willing to redesign the navbar a bit I'm just not sure what to put where? There is all the nice functions like the photo album, groups, links back to the articles, etc. I'm sitting here pulling my hair out turning to figure out what other would use and how to lay it out. I've just got done watching UI/UX videos (UI=User Interface and UX=User Experience). I know I can improve in this but I'm going to need feedback from everyone. So what I need is everyone to surf around the site and tell me what links are typically used on the bar. I want to drop the unused junk and but in the same token try to bring all main functions forward for members to use. Now you know why I'm pulling my hair.

Try logging out. Then clearing all cookies and cache and then logging back in. Then try it. ISX is right on the money. Since the family members keep the site going with donations and effort...

Just tell the part counter you want a 2009 6.7L thermostat...

That pretty cool looking. What switch do you have there?Not to but how is the pana-pacific gauge holding up?

200*F thermostat is from 6.7L 2008-current Cummins.

Geez... Another failed thermostat this is so common. If I can't maintain 191-193*F coolant temp on -25*F day without winter fronts I change thermostat's. I never use the winter fronts to compensate for a failed thermostat but to keep more heat under the hood for the engine.

Few things you can't mix MPG and racing to together that's a apple to orange comparison. As for cold air intake your turbo discharge is still going to be high. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7ladNL7V8 Once again comparing gasoline naturally aspirated vs. diesel turbo charged that's another apple to orange comparison. VP44 advances the colder the air. VP44 advances with low to zero boost. VP44 retards with hotter air. VP44 retards with high boost. Which also follows the Autoignition Temperature... (My theory) Basically if the intake air is a bit warmer than typical then the diesel fuel is injected and can convert to vapor faster and ignite faster than colder air giving the illusion of advanced timing. Being that cold air below 100*F IAT temp will reduce MPG for every 10*F below 100*F I typically lose about 1 MPG. So at 80*F IAT I typically lose -2 MPG's. With the dead of winter with 20*F IAT temps I was down to 14 MPG's. Cold air is NOT MPG friendly with diesels. Also keep another though going. Why did Cummins add a grid heater to heat the air if the temperature was below +60*F IAT? Maybe it was inefficient at low IAT temps? I know the coolant jacket is also... Just food for though... Why does the MPG fooler work as explained from Quadzilla tech's.

Kind of a simple saying I heard years ago."Horsepower is how fast you can get to the wall""Torque is how far you can push/pull the wall"I've always considered HP/TQ a hand in hand measure measure. But with our truck (working trucks) the torque is more important than horsepower is really. The torque is what get the loads moving...(Not a science nerd in this topics)