Mopar1973Man

Whew! Sigh... I just got done stacking all that firewood in a neat pile to dry for the summer.The pile measures roughly 22'W x 9'D x 5'H = 990 cubic feet. Cord is 128 cubic feet.990 Cu.ft. / 128 = 7.73 Cords7.73 cords / 5 Trips = 1.54 cords on avg. hauled per load.

Hey ISX could you post up the make and model of that compression tester? I'm really needing to buy one just for diagnostic purpose.

That's where the owner has to experiment a bit and find out what works the best for there truck. That's why I listed all the common resistor values and there temperature numbers in the IAT temp table so a owner can change a resistor to fit the tune that works the best. I typically can reach 130-140*F on hot summers days climbing mountains of Idaho which is the best temp for mileage so I used that resistor value for the fooler.

Wow. That thing is heavy. I know you over the designed limits of the truck axles (owners manual). Now you got to remember most all weights given by the dealer is typically dry weight. In other words absolutely nothing in the RV. No water, no propane, no sewage, no food, no bedding, no nothing. Pin weight and axle weights will change as you load with perosnal gear water, propane, waste, etc.Rule of thumb is 22-25% of your gross trailer weight is pin weight. 13,380 x 0.25 = 3,345 currently. Like my RV is quoted to weight 6,588 pound dry weight. But the day I bought mine I scaled it. 7,200 pounds and it was empty. That brings out another thing too RV's can come with optional accessories which will not be counted into the dry weight numbers either. That like mine is quoted 6,588 and 7,200 pounds actual well I had the optional chair, optional awning, etc. So the weight is slightly higher. The only thing I didn't figure is the 40# pounds of propane.I will admit that thing is a beast compared to my 31' Jayco Eagle.

Sure looks like a HW35W but missing the boost elbow. Here is my rebuilt HX35W.

Ok... I'll let the cat out of the bag... I graduated in 1988...

:duh:Gone out again for another vehicle accident. Once again a motorcycle rider was going way to fast and hit the side of the mountain with his motorcycle. Please people slow down there is absolutely nothing worse than ruining a vacation by speeding and getting into a serious accident. Then got to run for a vehicle fire at the other end of the district but was called off before I got half way.

Might have to change up the formula a bit to get a good pressure for the rear axle. Kind of like: Axle weight / Rear Axle Weight Limit x Tire Inflation Max Press. = Inflation Pressure 3500 / 7500 = 0.46 x 80 = 37.3 PSI 2860 / 7500 = 0.38 x 80 = 30.5 PSI So changing to that formula your basing tire pressure on a percentage of axle load. Increases the empty weight numbers.

Thank you for the part name and number...

I can break the tires loose in 2nd or 3rd gear on dry pavement. On wet pavement I can break loose in 4th gear as well. HX35W turbo is a good turbo as long as you tune around it.

Some people mount a extra tank in the bed of the truck haul a extra 100-200 gallon of water that way.Like on my RV I've got 50 gallons of water. I typically will fill two extra 5 gallon water container and place them forward up up in the bedroom as extra ballast but spare drinking water. I've gone 3-4 days on 50 gallons of water.

No. You got some errors. There should be a different weight rating on the tire for DUAL's vs. SINGLE's. They are never the same typically DUAL's are rated lower in weight. Second off you don't use door sticker numbers you use actual scaled axle weights. Like I know you rear axle right now is not weighing 7,500 pounds with a empty bed. Heck my entire truck doesn't weight much more than 7,300 pounds empty. (4440 + 2860 = 7300) My current axle weights front (4,440#) and rear (2,860#). My 235/85 R16 HiFly's rated for... 3042 SINGLE's @ 80 PSI 2778 DUAL's @ 80 PSI So using my actual scale weights and tire specs... FRONT: 4440/2 = 2220/3042 =0.72 x 80 = 58.3 REAR Single: 2860/2 =1430/3042 = 0.47 x 80 = 37.6 Here is where I get hung up. I need actually scale weights and then figure them both by 2 or by 4 and see what pans out correct also calculate maximum axle weight vs. normal Load Range E's. REAR Dual: 2860/4 = 715/2778 = 0.25 x 80 = 20.5 ??? (Awful low) REAR Dual: 2860/2 = 1430/2778 =0.51 x 80 = 41.1 Remember the door jamb is the MAXIMUM axle weight designed for the truck. REAR Max: 7500 / 2 = 3500 pounds This would create a figure above 100% (1.25 x 80 = 100.7 PSI ???) REAR Max: 7500 / 4 = 1875 pounds. This would fit but seem awfully low in pressure even at max load. (0.67 x 80 = 53.9 PSI ???) Seriously... I think is divide by 2 on both numbers but you got to use actual scale weight not the door tag.

Seriously that's what I call boondocking for sure. I love that kind of camping. Dragging the RV out to a remote area, setting up, and staying for a few days to enjoy the beauty around you. I'm getting itchy for a good boondocking trip. Most of my RV trip are down to Emmett, ID for shopping reasons but it time to head north with the RV next. Where to and when I don't know...Heck I might show up on Hex0rz doorstep for dinner one evening who knows...

Sweet...

Feel the love...

Also another fly by wire system here. I've heard that the Automatic transmission truck happen to have vacuum servo system because of the kickdown cable still need to be pulled. But the manual transmission trucks are all fly by wire I think starting in 2000.

Here is the dealer web page... http://www.bigotires.com/Tire-Detail/HIFLY/VIGOROUS-AT-601/23448 I got the 235/85 R16's...

Now just compile a version for us Linux people now too. I really don't want to have to boot up Windows.

Same math. Just use the dual weight instead of single weight. You'll notice dual weight is typically lower and so the pressure should slightly higher. (axle Weight / 2) / Dual Tire Weight Limit x Dual inflation Max Pressure = Inflation pressure.

That's going to be either a carb. or fuel injected. If its fuel injected I would put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and see if the fuel pressure is coming up right away or lagging. Pump sucking air? Filter pugged up?

That because of a few different things happening. 1. Yes. The exhaust housing is bigger the bigger the housing the the slower the spool up. 2. You've went beyond the the turbos ability. When you start getting drive pressure above the boost pressure you over the choke point of the turbo you need to turn down the boost elbow to limit the wastegate at 35 PSI.Now Remember I've got.* Stock 3" Exhaust Straight piped* Stock HX35W turbo* +50HP injectors* Edge Comp Tapped and set to 5x3Absolutely no problems towing my 31' Jayco trailer at all. Very controllable for EGT's and climb a 6-7% grade in 5th gear @ 60 MPH for 70-80% of the grade wasn't till I hit 1,200*F I back out and grabbed 4Th and still held 55-57 MPH the rest of the way.

It might misfire and be poor spray pattern being the high pressure is leaking out into the return rail. The only way to fix is to re-do it the other way and it should cure any issues. You might notice hard starting and might not.

Kind of like...

Just for fun... Here is the Hifly's I bought...My multi-tool is 9 inches wide to show tread width. Currently inflated a bit over because of firewood hauling but...After I'm done hauling firewood this what I'll inflate too.Front axle Tire Pressure4440 / 2 = 2220 / 3042 = 0.72 x 80 = 58.3 PSI (60 PSI)Rear Axle Tire Pressure2860 / 2 = 1430 / 3042 = 0.47 x 80 = 37.6 PSI (40 PSI)

4 Reasons for this brand of toilet paper.1. 1000 sheet per roll the most paper you can buy for a good price.2. Works in my Frantz Oil Filter3. Works with the septic system on the property just fine.4. Work with the RV without any issues at all. No clogging.