Mopar1973Man

Idaho is one long rolling up and down grades. Even the full trip from home to Boise is all downhill. Then its all up hill going home. This is in a manner of speaking looking at elevation changes over the full length of the trip which my GPS can measure for. I can get a profile of the elevation changes as a cross section. I was messing with a bit of math like ISX love to do. Here is a spread sheet of numbers. Some of it speculation and some of its actual measurement. Now 45, 50, 70 and 75 MPH are speculated MPG numbers. Everything else is a result of math and calculation. The 2 drag figures below are truck alone and the truck and RV. So even with my truck I got to over come 67.4 HP worth of wind drag at 75 MPH... I know my truck stands nearly 7 foot tall compared to 2WD truck which are nearly a foot shorter. the sq/ft of frontal area make a huge change on wind drag figures. So at 55 MPH I only losing 26 HP to wind drag. Formula is from here.. http://gtechprosupport.com/support/AeroDragCalc.htm

Pictures?

Geez. I don't know what to say. I've never seen one like that before where the paint is nearly all gone. But yes its just a few bolts and pull the cover off. You can re-use the gasket again. But it would be best to just pull it off and paint it properly.

duh... :doh:I'm not sure of the person now. At least the one I talked about this issue he did not have a fuel pressure gauge at the time.

I'm still curious how it turns out and what you have to do to make it work.

There is different DOT grades. http://www.tccoa.com/brake-fluid/ DOT3 and DOT4 are the common stuff. I typically use DOT3 brake fluid from WalMart with zero problems. Just every 100K miles I end up doing a caliper rebuild service. Basically taking them completely apart cleaning and reassembling. Nothing more than that.

As for the VP44 pump and cold weather I would expect the hydraulic pressure would get extreme. This why there suggest heating the oil before using to bring down the viscosity to a normal level. But then on the other hand the heated oil will most likely over heat the VP44 electronic and cause a failure. So the VP44 trucks are not suited very well for veggie oil usage typically. There are few that managed to do it but nothing ever listed on pump lifespan though.

Neither did I for the first go around. But the second go friend offered to help so he dove in. Either method you choose to use you'll get the job done. But I highly suggest you be smart and make sure you get every thing done right the first time so you not back a second time.

I personally couldn't do it because the amount of firewood hauled and thrown in the bed of the truck would create a serious issue. I would most likely start ripping the bed or bow it down more at the hole. Dropping the tank. I've done mine twice but that been some time ago it not like you got to drop it even every year. Some do the lift the bed method and some do the drop the tank method. But as long as the work is done correctly there should not be any reason to do it multple times.

Rule of thumb.Watch your pyrometer. When it reaches 1,200*F you want to slow down and gear down 1 gear. Then kick the RPM's back pu to 2K RPM's and watch again. If the pyrometer reaches 1,200*F slow down and gear down again. I've got a 7% grade I got to do in 3rd because of the tight corners I all I can't build my speed back up without pushing the pyrometer well over 1,200*F to get to the next gear. Then slow down at the next corner... So in my case just go slow.Typically I go from 5th to 4th and climb most grades at 50-53 MPH at 1,000-1,100*F and no issues at all. I use 1,200*F as my breaking line to trigger my down shifting. Bunch of people will admit you can pull all day at 1,200*F but I tend to try and allow for room for erro just in case the pyrometer gauge is wrong.

2 Cycle oil is safe up to the 2007. It just I got no data for the EGR and DPF trucks beyond 2007...

Ah... I think you are the German from California right? :think:If so the what I'm thinking is the lift pump is either wore out or the pickup screen in the tank is plugged up. He doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge either.

Wild temperature swings would most likely be a bad thermostat too. But the fan noise is like Wild & Free posted. Because you got to remember in the frozen north if you don't have a winter front that minus air temp is blowing across the radiator and doesn't phase it for temp I still can hold 190-193*F of temp. So the fan won't create the wild up down.

Tank drop done twice here too. First time I did it and the second time my buddy did it while I drank beer.

Typically there is a lost of power once you start seeing the white smoke. This is a sign of retarded timing and typically there is a P0216 code right behind it coming soon. I had the same thing with my truck at 48K miles and took it back t othe dealer and they installed a lift pump. The dealer wanted to install a VP44 but since there was no signs of issues they wouldn't. So 2K miles later the smoke got worse and POP the P0216 code came. So a new injection pump was installed.

Worse yet when the fuel gauge shows 1/2 tank and your running out.

I used 1/2 inch foam pipe insulation on my A/C pipe to protect it. Also under that is a piece of rubber hose just in case.

Right on! That is perfect. I'll give it a shot next time I get a chance at getting a bucket of carb dip. Very impressive.

:lmao:I wish I had more knowledge of the parts and such for the non-A/C vs. A/C...

Hmmm... You'll have to check on the wiring, vacuum, and HVAC case fore everything... I've never done a conversion.

Must of been a really old post from way back. I remember a post of mixing all this but after studying the contents of the other products vs. the 2 cycle oil. I might of fell in the trap long ago but I continue studying and try to make thing better every day. Still in all high cetane tend to be lower in BTU's also so why use a product that reduces cetane or increase BTU's then mix another product that does the reverse. That's why I started the research and better the information.

Also make sure you center the sender back up in the tank. I've seen when people try hooking up the factory line they will swing the sender to line up easy and typically stick the sender to the wall of the tank so it sticks on position or hang up when low on fuel.

I tend to agree I typically only see 2-3 PSI tops so either you got a fuel line restriction or a lift pump that can't keep up.

White smoke is a sign of lack of timing or low fuel pressure. So what is the fuel pressure at idle and WOT at highway speeds? Then re-run the error code with a OBDII reader and see what you get.

Still running factory OEM brake system from the master cylinder all the way down to the calipers. The only thing that not OEM is the caliper seals and boots and the pads. I've never replaced a master cylinder ot hydrobooster. Mostly due to the fact I change brake fluid every 30K miles and completely rebulid the calipers every 100K miles. I basically change brake pads every 200K miles roughly. (185K actual)So a rebuild kit of the hydrobooster is much cheaper that the $95 salvage one plus a rebuild kit that you most likely have to put into it as well.