Mopar1973Man

I'm going to do the same thing is install the new injectors and re-check the valve lash. Why not. The valve cover is already off... Injectors should be here today...

Yes. The big wrench hangs on the pulley bolts and the smaller wrench turns the fan clutch off the stem. Yes. It's a left hand thread so it turns to the driver side with the wrench handle.

No I can't. The exhaust brake is hanging me with a HX35W turbo permanently. So I'll never be upgrading turbos. Also I'm not after major HP/TQ. I'm after the MPG numbers. So at this point there is no need in upgrading to 75 HP or even larger. I got enough problems with 2nd and 3rd gear barking the tires now with or without the RV. That's on the old wore out RV275's. Call him up and ask about it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973mans-dealer-contacts/12-dealers--vendors/11-vulcan-performance

Get ahold of JL Welding (member here on the forum) he can make you a set of fan wrenches for your truck.

Sorry to hear the loss of a family member. It does sound like you've been busy. Don't worry we'll hold you a spot here on the forum.

Yeah that wasn't too bad being that the valve lash could be....Intake - 0.006 to 0.015Exhaust - 0.015 to 0.030Some of use run slightly tighter lash settings too. I'm running 0.008 and 0.018. This give a illusion of a slightly bigger cam profile.

Just be careful of your temperature while using vegetable based oils. As the temperature get colder the veggie based oils tend to settle to the bottom and thicken up.

Ok. so thinking deeper on this.Does it do it with a full tank of fuel?Is the fuel gauge functioning properly? Like mine would get down to about 1/2 tank and actually was near empty.My problem thinking out loud here is that you claim there is air flow from the filter can. I've got a hard time with that knowing that the pressure is dumped rather quickly form the fuel system once the engine is shut down so that means the pressure would have to be in the tank as well. But loosening the cap did fix it. :think:Anyone else want a stab at this one too?

Question...How did you get it out? I've never bother to try and pull the valve all the way out. So how did you remove it?

They don't get any shorter...

Positive probe (DVM) -> Positive post of either batteryNegative probe (DVM) -> Negative post of either battery

I can tell you that dropping my old RV275's out and putting back in my stock injectors I lost about 3 MPG. My trip to Lewiston, ID I maxed out at about 17.5 MPG round trip. Hence why the replace are being purchased because the old one where just too pissy and misfiring to much at idle again so after seeing a few day of driving and the MPG is lower with stock I'm going back to +50 HP and should see the brown truck Friday. I know what I'm doing Saturday morning...

Nothing. You can't adjust the APPS sensor for the PCM. Also you should never adjust using the PCM voltage this will absolutely cause problems for the ECM then being the IVS (Idle validation switches) in the APPS sensor will be in the wrong mode. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/37-apps-sensor-voltage-adjustment

I'd say you got lots of clearance.

Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative. Check DC voltage then Check AC voltage. DC Voltage: 13.5 to 14.5 DC Volts (Passing grade)AC Voltage: Less than 0.1 AC Volts (Passing grade)If you get a instant 31 Volts AC your DVM is low quality and is not capable of measure different frequencies other than 60 Hz household. Oscilloscope is the best way to measure alternator output but not everyone has one.

What you need to test is load test and AC noise test. A really good bench tester will have the ability to test diode function and be sure its not leaking AC noise. Here is my homebrew test.

This all but done now. (Paid!)Thanks to Eric over at Vulcan Performance I got a killer deal on a set of +50 HP injectors that with be pop tested and flow matched before shipping.

It's all based on current weather conditions like trying to recharge a A/C system in a the dead of winter is going to have much lower numbers than charging A/C on a 100-110*F summers day. So I would hold for now and see how it performs on a hot day if the cycling problem returns then check your pressures again. Wild & Free is right there is a balance to how much liquid and gas freon you want in the evaporator too much liquid or too much gas and you lose the cooling abilities over a range of weather.

:cry:RV275's injectors are completely wore out and not worth pop tuning. The Nozzle and needles are all shot. Injectors are suppose to pop at 300 bar at least the shop I was at wanted 305-310 bar as a typical mark. Mine were pissy and leaking at 260-270 bar. Average pop pressure was 270 or so. So they are all firing low and early. This also accounts for the random misfire somewhere to because of the pissy nozzles. The guy was nice enough to show me a good used injector and how it suppose to hold up and they are worlds of difference. Then he showed me the pintle needle difference and what is normal and what isn't. Another tidbit learned was that injectors are typically short lived on rotary pumps like VE and VP44 compared to the in-line P7100 pump.So back in the box my dud injectors went and now off shopping for new injectors either RV275's or +50 HP injectors.

Hmmm... 3 gallons on the shelf in the shop if I remember right I might have to do inventory quick...

Yeah it about right on. Thing is as it get warmer in weather the pressure will increase. Now what is your vent temps like? You should see roughly about 35-38*F if the compressor stay locked.

Nice Truck... Seriously very nice truck! :thumbup2:Once again welcome to the family.

As long as the weather isn't too cold there isn't much harm you can do to it.As for fuel flow rates ISX should know the number roughly speaking.

[*]WalMart SuperTech 2 Cycle Oil [*]Sthl Chainsaw Oil [*]Quaker State [*]PennzOil [*]Yamalube [*]Phillips 66 Injex [*]Castrol Snowmobile I've used all these...

Got you covered... I processed your donation...