Mopar1973Man

Cool. Glad to see that. I've been wondering when the time comes about stealing a motor another and stuffing it in. Mine been running for many years now without a issue. (AirDog 150)

Ok. We've talked on the phone. Now so other are clear its a AirDog FRRP. So he's direct connected to the ECM as well as using stock plumbing. As for the ECm it would be direct control of the fuel pump and it would be smart to add the relay to take the stress off the ECM. If the rotor is binding up it might be pulling extra amps on the ECM. You might check for the P0230 error code.

Something is missing now that it requires to function this most likely the cause now you'll have to back track a bit and test with devices to see if you can over come this issue.

I've gotten a few other test at close to 128:1 ratios and the finally number floats around 380-400 HFRR roughly. But I never got a exact 128:1 ratio test yet. Why I said...

:umno:It's maroon.

The article is here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/63-adding-2-cycle-oil-to-diesel-fuel http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives

Fly by wire (Manual Trans)PCM -> ECM -> VP44 Automatic TransmissionPCM -> Vacuum servo -> mechanical linkage

Do remember that 474 HFRR score is based on 200:1 ratio where the 128:1 ratio is roughly 380 HFRR which isn't to bad. Since I have a lot of 2 cycle engines (Stihl 046 Magnum, Stihl 461, Weed wacker, etc.) around I might well use the 2 cycle oil. It's always here why not?

No. It's not a dump trailer and No. The sides are fixed and solid. Price prevented me from even going that far. But I will admit the GVWR of this trailer is double easy. Then the dry weight of the trailer is lower than my previous. The tongue is so light empty I can pick it up and place it on the ball. Where the old trailer was so heavy not even Kelly and I as a team could pick up the tongue even empty.

I'll make Dorkweed's wood pile look tiny...

MoparMom didn't unload it. Kelly and myself did. Uh. As for the old trailer it got traded in so that would have to run down to Caldwell and pick it up for what ever price its being sold for.

I think your truck can be made to haul that RV still. But you'll have to invest in changing out the tires and coming back down to a smaller tire. 235's or 265's. 235's will be better for towing better stability. Then add some air bags to the rear axle. Might in invest in some good shocks all the way around. I know your heavy on the rear axle but you not really outrageous.As for finding the gem. I would be hard pressed to find a truck with less than 250K around me. I'm not much for CL or Ebay dealers. I've seen to many people getting scammed with vehicle sales. I would hit the local dealers where your at and see what options you got and maybe ask if they would put there eyes out looking for you.

Well it done...Went from this...To this... BigTex 70TV yea you bit the bullet and push forward.Even on Saturday I made my first run with it getting a load of firewood. Really nice trailer that hauls the weight very, very nicely. Better than the only single axle that was never really designed for that amount of weight. (Kelly peering over the wood pile)Now as for loading its so nice. I was cutting up on the bank so buddy Kelly backed the trailer up near the bank jacked knifed and dropped the tailgate and we just rolled all the wood in the trailer. No more lifting 35-38" to just get it into the truck bed or the trailer bed. Now there was someone that made the comment about "Just wait till every find out about your trailer they'll want to barrow it" Well that's not happening. I've already got friends asking to haul firewood for them as well. Even MoparMom says "Let them speak in Cash". So after pondering the calculator I figured out a nice price per mile for hauling material for people be it firewood or construction materials. Maybe make a bit of money locally doing bit of local hotshotting... Never know...:whistle:As for Raymond at American Trailers Sales Of Caldwell I would like to say "Thank You" for selling me a wonderful product at the right price.

Yes. There is a adjustment on the drag link for center your steering wheel. Make only 1/2 turn adjustments and check. You'll be surprised at how fast that alter the center placement.

As long as you can reach over 1,000*F for a few miles of heavy towing you'll clean those old ones right up. But you'll enjoy your news ones as well.

Being I've got 2 chainsaws laying in the back of my truck and mixing 2.5 gallons of 2 cycle fuel at a time. I typically always have a few gallons of 2 cycle oil floating around the property. So yes Opti-lube might be cheaper but not as available as 2 cycle oil since I use so many 2 cycle fuel powered engine its foolish to mail-order Opti-lube just for the one purpose.

Yes. Mine is a fly by wire only PCM controlled cruise control. But from what I've learned from everyone here is that all automatic where vacuum servo cruise still controlled by the PCM. So I would attempt to using resistors to fool the APPS sensor to believing its at a idle position of about 0.4 volts, ground the idle leg of the validation switch. Remember this is shooting from the hip. Being that the APPS signal comes from the ECM and then is passed to the PCM. If cruise is set then PCM should take over control feeding signal to the vacuum servo.

4.10 gears?

Walmart SuperTech Outboard 2 Cycle Oil is about $11 a US Gallon.

Actually I would say his starter need to be bench tested.

Here is the inspection process... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection

Personally I don't think it makes a difference at all being that IAT temp are always +40*F on a 2nd Gen regardless if you use the stock air box or the BHAF. Because the discharge of the turbo is going As for boost pressures it doesn't seem to be effected either. Still in all MPG's are higher in 100-110*F weather vs. 40-50*F weather. Since I don't normal race my truck and produce huge amounts of boost constantly then isn't that much heat either. Now the whole CAI and that argument would be plausible if you 100% racing. Daily drive I would say no. Because you can use 100% of the power 100% of the time. The way I see it less pyrometer temps at speed is a sign of efficiency.

Hmmm... Something worth inspecting on my own RV. I tend to load my holding tanks full of water and soak after a trip to clear the tanks of any solid material that might of dirt to the walls or bottom. I need to open the belly pan and do some work for the insulated tank areas. So it would be a good time to check mine out too.

Depending on the boost leak it may or may not show up on the boost gauge. I've had a few small leaks that would not effect the boost numbers but with leak tester you'd hear the air whistling out of the clamp or boot.

Second though too is that there is limp mode error codes present might prevent the cruise from working too. I'm not sure...