Mopar1973Man

Because as the injector is cool there is ample room for the pintle needle to move but as the nozzle heats up the coked fuel on the needle and nozzle body take up the last bit of space and then at idle you get a stuttering injector because the pop pressure isn't high enough to fire the injector because its jammed up. But you'll notice if you leave the engine idle long enough to cool the injectors again the problem will disappear again. Also just turning on the A/C or hard brake pedal push the problem goes away (increased load on the engine also a increase in pop pressure). I've got a pop a while back where I measured everything during a injector cleaning and was seeing a slight change in measure before and after. Mine are short lived because there already high mileage injectors from CajFlynn. (+400k miles).

Wow! $900 is a lot of money to drop on a steering box. :spend:Once again the life of the stock steering box is based on the size of tires on the truck. If the tires are smaller 235/265 then the stock gear box will hold up forever. But install oversized tires and steering issues start happening hand in hand. So far at 212K on the clock my stock box is still tight and got zero issues. I've done one sector adjustment to pull a bit a slack out. But when it starts to leak I'll get steering box re-seal kit and do it myself for much less than $900...

Looks good. I kind of wonder about the life your truck has had. By chance did the truck do a lot of heavy hauling in the past?

1998.5 to 2002 the ECM uses IAT temp primary but not limited to that it can use also the battery temp sensor too which PCM delivers the information over the CCD network. But the sensor ISX shows is only for the overhead display.A/C system doesn't use any external temp sensors other that the low pressure switch which tries to detect freezing temperatures of the A/C system and shut down the compressor if it is occurring.

Here you go... ISX is improving the method... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7555-Injector-Cleaner-that-works

Sure thing... I would want the information from a owners manual and not some RV / trailer site. Here is a bad example of what I mean. There is no listing of axle ratio, transmissions, etc. Then the weights seem to be off from what the owners manual shows. http://www.trailerlife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Trailer-Life-Towing-Guide-2003.pdf Here is my owners manual...

There is a typo in my last post. Corrected number I was trying to remember and post it and screwed it up. :banghead: Garmin GPS V ...... 21.6 miles ScanGauge II ....... 21.6 miles Truck Odometer .... 22.0 miles Ok... Bit long extended trip added into today till I quit... Garmin GPS V ...... 76.4 miles ScanGauge II ....... 76.5 miles (+ 0.1 Off) Truck Odometer .... 77.9 miles (+ 1.4 off) No. Already got correct speedometer for the most part. But this also proves my fuel data from the ScanGauge II is very close to accurate. (Formula: MPH / GPH = MPG) Between my 02 on 96 Dodges the 02 is off 0.5 MPH and then the 96 is a special case. The 96 shows 4 MPH fast on the needle but the OBDII port is right on the money.

Well here is run number two. I had to run down to Fire Station #3 this morning to drive a fire truck to Grangeville, ID. So I ran the test again for my truck from home to the fire shed and back to home. Garmin GPS V ...... 21.0 miles ScanGauge II ....... 21.0 miles Truck Odometer .... 21.6 miles Seem like my truck is truly 0.5 MPH as seen on the Garmin GPS V I've got. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/prod155.html

Why not just make a article database for RV / Towing and add write up to it. :smart:You can produce the information here and organize it. Then like I said add it to the article database then the world can share in the information. One pet peeve is I would like to get all the Dodge towing weights from 1989 to Current time as a article but I want it from the actual owners manuals not RV / tow sites. The numbers seen skewed.

More on Drag Coefficiency... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_coefficient http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automobile_drag_coefficient http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Vehicle_Coefficient_of_Drag_List As from what I found on Drag numbers for Dodge Ram truck range from 0.41 to 0.52.

A/C lines shouldn't freeze. This is a sign of low freon pressures on the low side. The lower the low side pressure get the colder it gets. So a typical automotive A/C unit is charged to roughly 35-40 PSI (R134a) and a normal house refrigerator is charged to 2-5 PSI (R12 days when I use to work with it). So I would verify the freon pressures again and be sure there is enough freon in the system.Dis-regard the red line I goofed...

Personally from what I read on the RV forum it not suggested to convert either a fifth wheel or goose neck back and forth. I know they sell adapters for it but there is some issues with stress on the adapters and the trailer as well. It seem that most RV's are typically 5th wheel where most ultility trailers are goose neck.As for me personally I tried to avoid either set up. I don't want to have a ball in the bed nor a fifth wheel plate to deal with. Not to mention the lost of storage space in the bed. Where most fifth wheel and goose neck set up either you remove the tailgate or replace with a notch tailgate.

Common Rails do some weird things including blowing the entire tip off the injectors.

Just to show the amount of return flow with a good 14-20 PSI supplied to the VP44...

Got the same problem. Dirty injectors. I can pull them out clean them and then the problem is gone. Just dragging tail about doing it again. Actually this time I'm going to have them pop tested and calibrated if I pull them out. Now seeing ISX new method of cleaning injectors I'm going to grab a can of carb dip and clean mine with that...

Mine failed at a 1/2 tank shown on the gauge but the tank was empty. Not always does the gauge just got to empty and die. Like my Dodge Ram 1500 has bad spot at 3/4 of tank where it drops to empty then works normally the rest of the span.

Sound like its time to pull out the DVM and do some more testing like ohm testing the magnets and checking for voltage att the magnets. Dexter axles has test for checking amperage draw if I remember right.

There is a way of checking the sender to be sure you not hung up on the wall. Crawl under and loosen the collar nut. The carefully twist the sender one way and listen for the float arm to bang then back the other direction and listen again to bang again. Then measure about half the way and tighten again this should verify the arm is not trapped again the wall giving a poor reading.

Nope. same pressure as the MAP sensor or the boost bolt. Just don't have the problem of the bolt being in the way. It's a 3/4 inch pipe plug with a 3/4 to 1/2 steel bushing then a 1/2 to 1/8 bushing for the boost tubing. Just remember the 1/2 pipe plug is a coolant passage and you don't want to mess with it.

:think:Still never had any issues with either power steering or the vacuum pump yet. Must have somethng to do with the 30k mile power steering fluid changes and the Frantz Bypass filter on the engine oil. I don't use any synthetics oils in either the power steering or engine oil.

Here is my updated video on this testing... Basicallly I just diconnect the alternator on both the feild and fuse and now the system should be pure DC power.

Here is the out of the way port for the boost gauge... On my 5 speed my fill plug is on the passenger side about 1/2 way up the case and requires a allen wrench to remove the plug. The drain plug is either bottom bolt of the PTO cover in the center.

Ever since I shimmed and egged shaped the spring on my AirDog 150 pump I've been keeping good high pressures. The only thing I notice so far is I can see how cold my fuel is by how low my fuel pressure drops under load. But once the fuel warms up I'm right near 18-19 at idle and 16-17 at WOT. So I drop a 1-2 PSI roughly the colder fuel gets.

I'm just curious. what I'm actually up to is figuring out a test bed method of checking for odometer accuracy on either the truck or ScanGauge. So I'm more or less thinking out loud and keeping my notes here.

Yeah that sounds about right. Normally the hi/lo switches are run with the PCM so when there is full throttle operation or other system malfunction the PCM can block out the A/C system as well. But your method will work just as well too. As long as the main amperage draw is not routed through the hi / lo switches your good.