Mopar1973Man

You might want to load test these batteries. 30 seconds shouldn't kill the batteries that fast. Cranking voltage should be above 10.5 volts. Use a DVM not the dash gauge.

That's the problem out here is just a open country road winding down through the canyon with a speed limit of 65 MPH. People typically driving 65-70 MPH down this road and some decides to turn in a driveway the next vehicle behind see the turn signal but now the second vehicle doesn't and doesn't understand why the slow down some pass at this point some can't slow down fast enough. I've clocked 80K pound logging trucks traveling the canyon at 68-70 MPH being I know they get paid by the load that typically do speed excessively. No matter what a 80K pound truck is going to take a while to slow down from 65-70 MPH to 0 MPH. This is really common since there is homes all along the highway out here with people turning off and on the highway to their homes. Me personally I drive constantly asking questions. Q: What if grandma pulls out of the next driveway around the next blind corner? Q: What if a deer comes bailing up the next blind hillside onto the highway? Q: What if Farmer Joe pulls out if his feed lot with a trailer load of cows? Like a accident I saw in New Meadows years ago Logging Truck vs. Cow. The both lost in that one. The logging truck was going 68-70 MPH and hit a cow in the dark of the night. Nevertheless the impact was so strong that the front axle was torn out from under the tractor. Once again speed being the factor and not being to able to avoid obstacles in the highway. As far as most people think they are not speeding.

Yeah once again toned out to another vehicle accident in the valley. Another accident involving excessive speed, a semi truck and a Dodge Durango. Semi truck was traveling too fast and came up on a pile of traffic slowing down because of a car turning off the highway. The Semi truck was traveling to fast to react and slow down so he veered into on coming traffic to prevent rear ending the vehicle ahead of him. So smacked a Dodge Durango head on. People in the Dodge Durango survived as far as I know they where sent off to the hospital driver life flighted and the passenger sent by ambulance. The driver of the Semi truck was shaken up but walking around. Please people slow down, take your time, and give space to the vehicle ahead of you so you don't end up like this.

Opps! I goofed... From the Dodge FSM book. At that point the transmission is well done... Next please...

No. That is the only spot. Unless you happen to have a Cummins Insite reader then you can hook up to the Cummins CANBUS under the hood.

That's what I'm trying to figure out. I need to know 2 things... [*]Error codes [*]Fuel pressure at idle and WOT These 2 thing determine the state of the VP44 health. Like say I've got a truck that was ran on minimum amount of oil pressure 30 PSI at 2K RPM. It may survive and in may not. So fuel pressure is important to know about to determine if the VP44 was cooled and lubricated properly. Error codes tell if there is any current damage to the pump that the VP44 PSG or the ECM can see. If error codes are present then the VP44 is damage and will most likely require replacement. Here is the 4 killer's of the VP44... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements

According to the Dodge FSM the trans temp light doesn't come on till 265*F...

Wow. I learned something new I didn't know the 6 speeds had a starter spacer. I'm glad I got a 5 speed.

So check the hi and lo side pressures with a manifold gauge set.Lo side should see about 35-40 PSI. Hi side will vary on outside temp bout typically I see about 200-250 PSI on a warm to hot day.

Hate to say I've seen that one...

Correct. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=fn7J8FQ8x5w

I don't think there is nothing wrong with the connector tubes. I think the injectors or so big now that it can't spray at low idle any longer it more or less squirting into the cylinders. This is the cause of the meaner idle and the smoker exhaust. Because if a connector tube was damaged you would have a misfire constant on one or more cylinders. The only other thing to ask is do you tighten the connector tubes first or the injectors? If the injector was tighten first you might of created the leak this way. So if you tighten the connector tube first you insure the seal of the tube in the injector.

Welcome to the family Robert... As for your VP44 issues it was most likely sold with a failed or failing lift pump and the VP44 was on its last leg which is common. If the fuel pressure was or is below 10 PSI its a automatic failure for the VP44. Lift pump is kind of like a oil pump for the VP44. If there isn't enough fuel pressure to get overflow valve to open (greater than 14 PSI) then the VP44 doesn't get enough lubrication or cooling from the fuel because there isn't enough flow back to the fuel tank. So to get the second smoking gun I need you to check the error codes and report back the P numbers here. Then we'll sit down with the error code list and verify what is going on. As for running the only thing the engine requires to run is... [*]ECM (Engine Control Module - Driver side of the block) [*]VP44 (Bosch VP44 Injection Pump) [*]APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor) [*]Crank and/or Cam Sensor(s) The engine will run and drive without but a Check Engine light will be present. [*]IAT (Intake Manifold Temperature) [*]MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure - If unhooked it will be in limp mode but still drivable) [*]ECT (Engine Coolant Sensor - If unhooked it will be in limp mode but still drivable)

I agree with both guys. I would opt for a set of gauges and also pulling the radiator out and flushing the face out. Create a crankcase vent to prevent future problems.

Won't work. Zoom in on the gauge and it only goes to to 6 Bar. You need to be able to reach at least 300 bar for 24V injectors. Then there is no collar adapter for the 24V injectors. This would work if you can get the collar for the 24 valve injectors. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Injector-nozzle-pop-tester-pressure-tester-/160944026662#vi-content

Very curious what you find out. But as for the 2 cycle oil to be the cause I kind of doubt it. Typically 2 cycle oil will mix on contact with diesel fuel and the slosh of the fuel mixes it as well. But something that thick I will be looking at fuel stations maybe a bad tank of biodiesel? I know that a bad tank of biodiesel will separate and sink to the bottom.

You could send then into Vulcan Performance and have them re-nozzle, pop-test, and flow matched. Or really cheap just send them in and have them pop tested and tuned.

Next weekend I'm going to hand the video camera to my buddy "Kelly" and let him video record me cutting trees. A old rancher named Rex Baker up here taught me a bunch of trick and tips to getting what you want and being safe about it. But in that video that's all Alpine Fir as far as the eye can see that was scorched from the Poe Cabin fire. We are just getting busy clearing a spot to work from. The ground is flat and I can back the truck in to work now. Only about 12 miles from the highway and another 23-25 miles of highway travel.

I did something long ago. I installed a fused terminal strip under the dash with... [*]+12V Battery power (20 Amp fused) [*]+12V Keyed power (20 Amp fused) [*] Ground (Negative) So this allows me to hook all accessories to this terminal strip without tapping wires under the dash. Ok. How it was done. I Ran a fuse lead from the alternator fuse in the PDC (Power distribution center) to the first terminal on the strip. Second I tapped a keyed hot fuse on the fuse panel in the cab to trigger a relay to switch power from the battery terminal to the second terminal. So on the relay the 85 goes to that switch hot fuse, 86 goes to ground on the terminal strip #4, 30 goes to the #1 terminal (+12V) and 87 goes to terminal #2. Terminal #3 is unused. Terminal #4 is a ground wire ran to a clean body ground. No wire are ran to the battery directly so to prevent the corrosion from eating the wires. No load is placed on any stock wiring other than the small milliamp load of the relay. So at this point you can wire in as much accessories as you wanted and have +12, key hot, and ground all in one package...

Check the starter solenoid fuse. I've seen fuse crack instead of blowing out so check it with a ohm meter.Check the starter solenoid relay. You can swap with something else.If you put 12 volt power to that brown wire it should turn over.

Load Range D's would fit you bill just fine. I've got D's on my RV with a GVWR of 8,500#. They have a maximum inflation pressure of 60-65 PSI. Personally when it comes to a new set of tires I'll up size mine from Load Range D's to Load Range E's...

:cookoo:Alternator is already grounded to the engine, and the engine is grounded to the battery.

I tend to agree with Dave the wiring is a bit concerning. The location of the ECM is on the driver side of the block. Can't miss it silver box with a 50 pin connector.As for that wiring I'd buy a roll of shrink tubing and roll of solder and solder all joints and shrink tube it. Ask Wild and Free about Scotch-Loc's on how much he loves them.

I would double check the VP44 to ECM wiring as a starter. Then double check both battery gorunds being the ECM and VP44 are directly connected to the driver side battery ground and the PCM is connected to the passenger battery ground.Since this is a wild throttle problem I highly suggest having the alternator tested for AC noise. If there is over 0.1 Volts AC then the alternator failed. Typical bench test just tend to test for DC output at load but you also got to test the AC noise level typically with a newer test bench, oscilloscope, or a high quality DVM like a Fluke.

I'll see what I can do next time passing the shed. I've been so busy hauling firewood...