Mopar1973Man

There is a aftermarket solution to the steering shaft bearing at the bottom of the steering column. http://rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/

Could you help me out? Could you fill out your signature with your truck information. Then I know what you have.Both the Wait To Start and the Lift pump are Internal ECM problems. Yo could try taking it to a dealer and allowing them to hookup a DRBIII tool and see if there is a diagnostic they can run. But typically the ECM should light the WTS light for a small period of time and the lift pump should be active for a short 1 second burst. There is no lift pump relay. The relay in the PDC is the power relay to the VP44.

I'm trying to get away from that. My lower back doesn't allow me to continue lifting heavy rounds. I would rather have a lower trailer that I don't have to lift so high. I can have all the width I like that's fine but got to remain short in length. As you can see I've a got a 8x8 trailer with a utility box and spare tire. Just a cheap old Chrysler 5 lug car axle and 1 ton dodge springs. No trailer brakes. Just 31"x10.50 R15 Tires LR C's. I know if I continue to haul on this old homemade trailer I'm going to kill the axle. So that why I'm looking forward to upgrading. All road I work on are single lane dirt roads with pullout every now and then. I've had this trailer now for over 10 years and 99% of it road time is on dirt roads. No I don't haul fast, nor aim for every big hole in the road. My typical road speed is about 20-25 MPH empty and about 10-15 MPH load headed down hill. So I've got to either upgrade the exiting trailer which will cost around $1,200 to $1,500 to upgrade which will not upgrade hauling space just axle. So I'm working at try to expand carrying capacity in length a bit but trying not to get carry away because of turn around issue in the forest. But I would like to aim for about 2 cords capacity (256 Cu.ft.) and should roughly weigh out at 4,000 lbs. dry weight for standard cord of wood. I know this value can and will change up and down from one family of tree to another, weather, rain, etc. The other problem is loading and unload my ATV in my current trailer. You have to careful unloading because of the deck height the ATV can just about flip over backward unloading. So you have to be careful of the angle the trailer is sitting in before unloading. Once again a lower deck is desired. Like back last fall when I bought the gates. I was going to buy a single gate. But since I don't have a trailer big enough I couldn't haul it home. Basically if it will fit in my truck it will fit in the trailer and visa-versa. But if it large then it won't fit either. Another problem. So... I've been talking to MoparMom and we are still going down and hit the dealer lot and see what he's got to offer. Maybe there is something used that fits better. I don't know. But sitting up here in New Meadows, ID and only looking at pictures and specs it time to hit the lots and see what there is... That's for a standard 8' foot wide frame trailer. Now custom cut the axle to fit the above trailer? Now the price goes up quickly because all the existing springs have to come off and be replaced, my wheels and tires most like won't fit the hubs (more expense), so pay a shop labor time to figure this all out to custom build and install a single axle (more expense), etc. Back to the same issue at hand limited carry space and limited axle again.

I've got to watch the length. Where I'm up cutting firewood there is little space for turning around. I really do hate driving 2 miles up to turn around or having to backup to my cutting spot over 2 miles that really a PITA. As for axles I'm running a Chrysler car axle under my 8x8 now (5 lug). Never bent it yet with all the overloading I've done to it. 15" tires that all I've had on the 8x8 now. Just 31"x10.50 R15 Load Range C's. After all the talking with Kelly last night I was trying to stay as short as possible because of road limitations. But after talking to the dealer there is a huge upswing in price on the 70TV vs. 60CH. So it might not even happen. :rolleyes:It just that my trailer is high deck to the the width over the wheels which makes it sway a bunch on dirt roads that are rutted, plus no trailer brakes at all. So I started looking into replacing the current axle with a custom made to fit and was getting prices of $1,200 roughly without, wheels and tires Just a axle custom fitted to my old pickup trailer with brakes. For a extra $800 ($2,000) I could do the 60CH which is 16 foot but have to add my own side racks. Or jump to $2950 for the 70TV. Now its getting tight for funds...

Hey gang. I'm going be upgrading trailers to improve hauling firewood. I spent a better part of the evening talking with Kelly (Taz) on the phone discussing the idea of a new trailer and what size. I already found a dealer right in Boise, ID that sells BigTex trailers. I originally started out with a car trailer BigTex 60CH. But after talking it over with Kelly last night going over measurements and usage I flipped over to the 70TV. BigTex 70TV http://www.bigtextrailers.com/pdf/70tv.pdf BigTex 60CH http://www.bigtextrailers.com/pdf/60ch.pdf

On a Dodge pickup fuel tanks I would be scared to death to do a sump on a truck that is used offroad. First time I go over that rock, log or stump and hook it I will be walking home 40 miles out of the woods.I can see doing it for racing applications... But there is a reason why fuel tanks are pulled from the top.

As for me and grouse I do the stand on the wings and pull the legs routine. You end up with the breast meat attached to the wings and the feet and guts in your hand. Just throw them over the hill. Now pick up the breast and break of each wing and there you go. No feather plucking.

Very close to my weights. Front: 4440 Rear: 2860 Total: 7300

You should aim for 70% of return flow 100% of the time to aid in lubrication and cooling of the VP44. As for the shut down flow there was all this hype about creating a lift pump mod to cool the VP44 after running so the heat soak would kill the electronics. As you see in the video there is no flow and can't be done. As for using air flow it can't be done either because the electronics are mounted against the fuel side of the plate so the cover aluminum and the plastic case prevent air cooling from working. So fuel flow is key here. If you can keep 14-20 PSI that means instantly after starting the heat is remove from the electronics in a mere seconds. That why the second link with requirements... The 4 things that can kill a VP44... Maybe that's why my VP44 is heading for 200K miles and ZERO issues. (165K miles currently). Tank vent is located on the tank sender with a small plastic tube that comes out horizontally not vertical. (#6)

I don't want TV...

His truck has to be returned to stock to unlock the Smarty.

Wow. That is a killer setup going from live bird to freeze in a short order. ...or for Dripley to bun in a short order.

Our Red fir and pine are reverse of that.The hotter and drier the weather the easier its to split the wood. If it even cold or damp then the wood is very stringy and PITA to rip apart.

Ekkk! That's already a fail for the VP44... Pressure should be monitor AFTER the filter and should be 14-20 for optimal health of the VP44. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements Check the tank vent. It might be plugged with dirt or dried mud.

To the right people I would say yes. Like furniture and gunstocks/grips... Firewood I'm not a hard wood burning type.

No. It's not white fir. It's a sub-family for the spruce family very similar. Great. That's fine with me. I'm tired of cleaning chimney because of choking down red fir too much to keep from roasting to death. Electric range in the kitchen. We are not that back woods. I do have electric heat in the ceiling but that is way too expensive to use being it heats the crawl space in the roof more than the room. That's been disabled years ago. Just started to check... I'll get started some time next week.

This makes me feel old too... I know I'm not as old as MnTom but there is a lot of puppies in the group. To mnTom I'm still a pup!

More than likely your going to end up making a mess out of it. Since boost level is very dynamic and change rapidly putting a fixed resistor in the line is either going to pull it down too low or push it up too high. Boost pressure under 5 PSI give the most for MPG numbers. As you push the boost up you start to lose timing advancement. This why the smoke switch back in the day failed so badly because fooling for a extremely high boost number typically gave the most retarded timing possible making the truck very doggy on sluggish.

I consume about 9-10 cords a year. But remember there is 2 houses here to heat. No propane, no electric heaters just good ol' fashion wood heat. I don't have the luxury of twisting up the thermostat and having heat. I've got to stuff the stove and light the fire.Yes. I do split it before winter. This stuff is still wet from the snow and rains. I'm plaining on going out some more and loading up with a few cords extra. The hot weather is coming hopefully next week we'll jump into the high 80's or low 90's. Give a week of that and then start cracking rounds.

Strange thing my previous load range G's where 3,750# at 110 PSI of air. Very stable tire but too small for your taste at 235/85 R16. Even my current Hifly's are a 235/85 R!6 but back to a standard 3,042# @ 80 PSI load range E's.

Born October 26, 1970... Graduated from High School in 1988... Graduated from ITT Tech in 1990... Moved to Idaho May 1, 1990... Bought my first Diesel Truck in 2002... Started Mopar1973Man in 2004... Bought the domain www.mopar1973man.com in 2007... What else...

Whew! Sigh... I just got done stacking all that firewood in a neat pile to dry for the summer.The pile measures roughly 22'W x 9'D x 5'H = 990 cubic feet. Cord is 128 cubic feet.990 Cu.ft. / 128 = 7.73 Cords7.73 cords / 5 Trips = 1.54 cords on avg. hauled per load.

Hey ISX could you post up the make and model of that compression tester? I'm really needing to buy one just for diagnostic purpose.

That's where the owner has to experiment a bit and find out what works the best for there truck. That's why I listed all the common resistor values and there temperature numbers in the IAT temp table so a owner can change a resistor to fit the tune that works the best. I typically can reach 130-140*F on hot summers days climbing mountains of Idaho which is the best temp for mileage so I used that resistor value for the fooler.

Wow. That thing is heavy. I know you over the designed limits of the truck axles (owners manual). Now you got to remember most all weights given by the dealer is typically dry weight. In other words absolutely nothing in the RV. No water, no propane, no sewage, no food, no bedding, no nothing. Pin weight and axle weights will change as you load with perosnal gear water, propane, waste, etc.Rule of thumb is 22-25% of your gross trailer weight is pin weight. 13,380 x 0.25 = 3,345 currently. Like my RV is quoted to weight 6,588 pound dry weight. But the day I bought mine I scaled it. 7,200 pounds and it was empty. That brings out another thing too RV's can come with optional accessories which will not be counted into the dry weight numbers either. That like mine is quoted 6,588 and 7,200 pounds actual well I had the optional chair, optional awning, etc. So the weight is slightly higher. The only thing I didn't figure is the 40# pounds of propane.I will admit that thing is a beast compared to my 31' Jayco Eagle.