Mopar1973Man

Well at least you don't have to pull the HVAC to fix that...

Please share this info!

Or... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/68-hfrr-testing-of-common-diesel-fuel-additives I would... Or how about putting chainsaw oil in my diesel truck (Sthl 2 cycle oil)???

Lets say that gasoline has a high HFRR score high enough that a two cycle engine would be destroyed in a short order without oil added.

Blind leading the blind neither side of that thread produces any proof of anything...

Most have seen a improvement over the stock injectors. But your improvement is based on driving habits. So more than likely you gains will be near nothing. I'm typically 5-10 under the speed limit (55-60 MPH) so my gains are going to be greater. For every 10 MPH over 55 MPH your wind drag doubles by 65 its 4 times then by 75 MPH its 8 times. Speed is a huge factor to MPG's. Larger holes in the nozzle means that the same amount of fuel can be sprayed in the cylinder faster or in a shorter burst compared to stock. So this gives the illusion of having advanced timing.

I've got a Garmin as well but Garmin will not tell you a instant MPG on the fly on after everything is said and done. Which with my life I can't do that because one day I might be towing trailers and the next day climbing around the forestry roads fighting fires who knows. With the ScanGauge II I can use a single day as a test bench and measure out MPG's as a single day instead of a full tank. ScanGauge figures on... Speed (MPH) / Flow (GPH) = MPG So if you can calibrate you speed with the Garmin which I know my odometer is off but the ScanGauge II is dead on. The calibrate your flow or consumption of fuel rate then you can see real time MPG's numbers. So now I'm not stuck having to drive conservatively the entire tank, doing all my towing with the gasser, etc. I can test bench on a single day and set have good numbers to report. But what AH64ID is after is the fact the fuel system has change which I admit it has too. But the changes are so very small I doubt the 10HP change (Rv275's +40 to +50 HP) is going to change offset a huge amount. Even the fuel gauge is pointing that the numbers have to close. Even worse case I would say maybe the number is 1 MPG off. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRQdoPs_tLo Also give me a break the injectors have only been in the truck a little over 48 hours... Geez!

Maybe your right. I was tried when I posted last night. I start thinking about Mom's truck and it extreme high offset I think you might be right too. Ahh... What the hell. We'll find out when I fill up.

15.5%

9.2% <- 15.5% -> 22.5%So the 9.2% would of gone down in MPG's. Lower the offset the lower the MPG numbers. Higher the offset the higher the MPG numbers.

I can tell you that the stock calibration is the 9.2% offset. The RV275's with the Edge Comp on 5x3 is 15.5% and the RV275 and the Edge Comp on 5x5 was 22.5%. So being I'm only shifting 10HP from previous injectors roughly and the Edge Comp isn't changed I'm pretty sure I'm close to right. Really close... But we'll find out in the next fill how much I've got to change the offset.So that 17.2 MPG was actually 16.1 MPG (backward figuring).

Basically the same distance. Lewiston - http://goo.gl/maps/JCqKO Ontario - http://goo.gl/maps/Cvwvt (Modified to show route taken around bridge construction in Weiser, ID) My numbers are in check... Try again... As for the ScanGauge II I'm going to get it checked on next fill...

(Insider tip)DAP = Industrial InjectionI know where his pumps come from. :wink:Personally I don't worry about the vendors I worry about the source of the pump who re-maned the pump? Like I found out there is only a small handful of Bosch Certified rebuilders and the rest are just vendors selling wares from these rebuilders.

Also like ISX and I discussed the 40* of crank is going to be 20* of cam which its driven from. So if say the initial timing is 13*BTDC then you could have plus or minus 10* of either side of the 13* starting point.

I've tried on many different types of SCBA's but I'll most likely never wear a SCBA on a fire because without my glasses I'm nearly blind and worthless. My optimal spot is working the pump panel and keeping water supplied to the fire fighter at the far end. The only reason I took the SCBA training is just for the off chance there is a HazMat issue or chemical based fire I can still work the pump panel but knowing my personal safety is still covered. At close distance I can still make out the panel. Give you any idea... Without my glasses on my monitor I have to be within 12" of the screen to even read this post. Yeah... I'm blind as a bat...

ISX I think has the range of degrees that a VP44 can move.As for the VP44 in stock form it can use the full range of advancement. It just the electronics give more ability to control it and get it advanced quicker.As for monitoring the timing position I would have to say that a DRBIII might be able to such thing. But most normal people don't have about $6,000 to toss out on a tool like that...:spend:I imagine all the Cummins tool should be able to see it too. Once again too spendy for normal people.

Depends on your setup and design you want to take. I kept my stock filter can and still use it today. As for the stock lift pump I can normally change those from the top in about about 15 minutes. So just remove all the stock plumbing from the lift pump and the 3 nuts on top and it will drop on the ground. Then just install your Airdog. Personally I would give Eric a call at Vulcan Performance and see about converting over to old school pushloc's so you don't have a air leak problems. Also this will allow you to add in the fitting to continue using the stock filter can as a secondary catch all filter, keep your fuel heater, etc.

Neither Wallet Calc'ed. When it takes $50 dollars of fuel to get to Lewiston, ID and another $50 bucks to get home on a 260 mile round trip just to pop test the injectors I'm sure the displayed lower number on the ScanGauge II was close to right. Not absolute but close. It showed that trip maxed out at 17.2 MPG. Lets not discuss that expensive trip. Todays trip cost only cost $42 bucks to fill in Ontario, OR. I was kind of filled before I left but not exactly tip top. So even in my log book I listed it as a no-fill. But this last fuel stop was a fill so I can calibrate the ScanGauge in a few days when I fill again.

Just because these are new doesn't mean they are working correctly. Might read this post as another member found out just because you got a NEW alternator doesn't mean it working correctly. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5937-Torque-Converter-Lock-Unlock-Issues?p=63884#post63884

Actually about 3-5 MPG loss. Yes. It's suggested to check calibration of the ScanGauge anytime there is a fuel system change. I've got to run this tank out and fill again to verify my calibration. But historically I've never been higher than 22.5% offset and never any lower than 9.2% offset. My current offset is 15.5% for the old RV275's so I'm not going o be very far off. +50 HP. This is the high point. 260 miles round trip plus city driving. After bucking a head wind home I dropped down to 23.5 MPG. Thunderstorms brewing as we traveled home. No IAT fooler was used. I had IAT temps ranging from 80*F-140*F the best MPG's came on after about 110*F then the numbers jumped good. As the wind and air cooled again then they slumped down slightly not much. But stayed above 100*F all the way home for IAT temps. From Ontario, OR to home. (120 miles)

Auto's typically only get 3rd and 4th gears for Exhaust brake function. Lets say my exhaust brake has the potential of actually locking up the rear tires in into a hopping skid. So I would have to agree with him...

Here is the article about the (KDP) Killer Dowel Pin http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/106-kdp-repairtiming-cover-leaks Here is the damage it does.

Yup... We still got steel cylinders for SCBA's.

:think:There is only a few things that leak oil on these trucks. The tappet cover (or cam cover), vacuum pump seals, crank seals (front and rear). Double check the gear case (possible KDP?)Now as for the tappet cover gasket make sure its installed the right way. I just seen it here locally where a 94 Dodge owner installed it upside down and had it leak too. So be aware of the thicker side goes towards the engine. No RTV required. There is nothing really on these truck that require sealants or silicone.

Ummm... I need you to do some more testing. * Load test the batteries (removed from the truck)* Load test the alternator (removed from the truck)There is no way to drop to 6V and keep the truck running. The minimum voltage required is 8 volts and then the truck will die. So I need you to verify with a DVM or analog volt meter that the battery voltage is actually falling off. You might check ground and positive feed lines into and out of the PDC (power distribution center) verify the power is actually reaching the ECM and PCM as 12 volts. Even with my alternator unhooked I still hold ~12 volts without a alternator.