Mopar1973Man

Needle valve is installed right at the point tapping the fuel line. This gives me a shut off point also everything behind the needle valve is protected. So like my needle valve is right in the fuel line between the stock fuel filter and the VP44.

Factory spec starts at 7.5K miles for a oil change. Something to think about more people have cross the million mile mark on petroleum lubricants than synthetics. More people have crossed the million mile mark without doing a single oil analysis. I've got local ranchers with 250-500K miles on 1st and 2nd Gen truck changing oil at 15-20K miles. Just food for thought. Even Mom's 1996 Dodge 1500 calls for oil change every 6K miles...

I know Ford products had a lot of electric shift transfer cases...

He's also here... Look up Yankneck696 he'll help you out.

2008 Honda Rancher oil filter...

Yes. The ODBII port splitters work fine. The devices are prioritized by communications. So no need to worry typically all ODBII communication are dealt with by the first bit if its 1 or 0. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

Mobil 15w-40 or Chevron Delo 15w-40, Fleetguard Oil Filters, and my Frantz Bypass filter. 217K miles and heading for the moon (253K miles). Change oil every 10K miles.

Ok. then you want to talk to CajFlynn here on the site. The only thing he did for his 2001 Dodge 2500 was change oil every 20K miles, used a Fleetguard filters, and Chevron Delo 15w-40 and the truck cleared 1.3 MILLION miles. No bypass filter ever used. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3435-1-000-000-Miles-Yet?highlight=million+miles

As long as the Wait to Start light comes on the software booted into RAM and complete without issues and the software starts up by checking the IAT sensor and the need for grid heaters. If there is no Wait To Start light then there is no ECM and it will not start because there is no signal for the VP44 nor is there signal to the fuel pump relay in the PDC to supply power to the VP44. so its a dead truck. The lack of Wait to Start is typically caused by a bad RAM in the ECM and during booting process there is memory errors so the boot up process is dumped and retried till it does boot up properly.

I'm one of the few that's never had single issue with a NV4500 transmission ever. The only thing I have had fail was the clutch disk. No 5th gear nut problems, no broke input shaft issues, nothing. I tow and haul heavy every summer. No problems at all. Most of it that I figured out is the oversized tires and high torque output of modified engine puts huge stress on the NV4500 which works the 5th gear nut off and breaks input shafts. But since I run a small 235's and capable of breaking the tires loose I cannot pin the torque to these parts and cause a failure like other have mention. Take it for what it worth. I'm at 217K and heading for the moon. Distance to the moon... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lunar_distance_%28astronomy%29 Then I'm heading home again...

So you internally consuming the oil most likely. So there is only a few ways of doing this failed turbo bearing seals. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection Possible head/valve seal issue. Maybe ring issues? Once again I return back to do some testing to find more information which will ultimate point out the true problem.

I would start with the crank sensor first... Typically the P1690 code comes from lack of crank sensor signal. P0336 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/175-p0336-crankshaft-position-sensor-signal P1690 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor

In the dead of winter with minus temps and both grid heaters cycling in for post heating I might see 0.5 to 1 PSI fall each time the grid heaters fire just after starting. Now with cool summer morning temps like 40-60*F out no I don't see any drop at all. My power is hooked up in the PDC for the AirDog not at batteries or at alternator (well technically its the alternator line in the PDC).

Hence why my placement of my pump.Well guarded from road debris and away from the heat of the engine bay...

Ok. Simple rule of thumb for sensors if a sensor is truly failed there will be a error code instantly at the very moment the sensor fails. If a sensor fails within normal operational secs then the code will NOT be present but normal a live data tool like ScanGauge II or similar will spot that sensor(s) that are out of specs.As for fuel additive never mix products together. 2 cycle oil and PS are backwards to either other. 2 Cycle oil is a cetane REDUCER and lubricity INCREASER where PS is a catane BOOSTER and a injector cleaner (lubricity REDUCER) High cetane typically reduces MPG because of the lower BTU's and short burn rate of fuel. Where low cetane fuels tend to burn much slower push longer and high BTU content.When testing for electronics failure it always best to completely unhook addon devices. Remember the Quad communicates on the CANBUS. So all connections should be returned to stock for proper testing.

When AirDog produced the external adjustable regulator this problem came with that system. There has been spring replacements and issues with that system since the beginning. The old school spring and check ball works very well it a bit messy but you get solid pressure with out a bunch of up and down changes.

I don't think there is anyone here with a centrifuge filter. Most us a bypass filter like Frantz filter, Motorguard filter, or AMSOil bypass filters. I will admit the centrifuge filter do a better job of filtering out the soot and debris but the price is high compared to a bypass filter setup.

Just because you used that method doesn't mean the injectors are firing at there proper pop pressure either. This might contribute to the smoke issue that you talking about. I hate to say it but the oil pressure gauge is not accurate by any standards. If I can vary the ECT sensor temperature and get a huge change from the oil pressure gauge that tell me the gauge is worthless. Not to mention the value shown is no where close to actual tested value. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUYO-lJe36w Safe is 2 quarts low. But 1.5 gallons is extremely risky.

If there is no Wait To Start light then the ECM is not booted up and so there is no software to fire the injection pump. So it going to be a ECM issue.

Please don't do this! This is a no-no... Never mix products! I realize the poster doesn't do it any longer but just to be clear don't mix... Mixing products can negate benefits or create new problems because of different chemical mixing together possible incompatible issues. Like with 2 cycle oil most all other products are backwards to 2 cycle oil so mixing typically negates the benefit of both the 2 cycle and the other product so you basically wasted money and got nothing done.

I hope you haven't done damage to the engine with lack of oil flow. But something is wrong because its consuming way too much oil even for a break in. What color of smoke? My first thing I would do is... [*]Pull all injectors out and pop test them all. This will verify the smoke isn't a fuel issue. [*]While the injectors are out I would run a compression test to verify the health of each cylinder. We don't know if its a bad injector just spraying to much and hosing out the rings or the other cylinders where worse off than you knew. We need some more test data to go forward. This would be covered by doing a compression test. Because if the compression is low or something is bent or broken then the compression will be low on the bad cylinder(s). This would be covered by doing the injector pop testing. Because if the injector(s) are failing the pop test will show it.

Biodiesel is typically a dirty fuel when home produced. Commercial fuel production and biodiesel is fairly clean but still has it winter problems of gelling and separating.

Nothing wrong with that...

I do!!! Much safer at that speed out here. Just in one month we've had 5 vehicle accidents involving excessive speed driving the canyon. All 5 accident involved a totaled vehicle and serious injuries. I've got to admit since I started driving slower at 55-60 MPH I've avoided many many accident because I was capable of slowing down even more and getting out of the way. Not to mention my fuel mileage is at least in the 20's range where most people pray to make high teens. So I can't complain. Also the difference between 55 and 65 MPH is so fractional that its not worth driving faster to get to your destination 3-4 minutes earlier and 5 MPG lower. Doesn't make any sense to me. From Home to McCall, ID - 35 miles Formula (distance / speed) = Hours x 60 = Minutes 55 MPH = 0.63 Hours = 37.8 Minutes 65 MPH = 0.53 Hours = 31.8 Minutes Really doesn't make any sense to drive reckless to gain what 6 minutes getting somewhere...

Most people are swapping out to FASS or mechanical belt driven pumps. Me, personally would consider the FASS before the mechanical pumps. This kind of the 1st generation of mechanical pumps and might have a revision some time soon and improve the design and minor flaws. Kind of like when I bought my AirDog I bought during the 2nd generation phase of the pump and got a rock solid pump. Something to chew on.